Showing posts with label Horse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Horse. Show all posts

American Saddlebred

The American Saddlebred is a breed of horse developed in the state of Kentucky. Today they are featured in many showring competitions, and they are also used for racing, parades, and hunting. These horses have a disposition which make them good for virtually any task in which they are needed. They are well known for their stamina and the ability to learn quickly.

The Saddlebread is very alert and keen. It is flashy and steps high, and they are referred to as the "peacocks of the horse show world." The preferred Saddlebred is one that has excellent proportions and is beautiful. They have large eyes which are sharp and ears which have an excellent shape. The Saddlebred is known for having a head which is well proportioned to its body. These horses are also known for their prominent withers and muscular shoulders.

Saddlebreds are also known for being five gaited, and this is a trait which was passed down from their ancestors. This breed was first developed in the 18th century by Americans who bred the Thoroughbred with the Narragansett Pacer. The Pacer was a well known breed at the time, though many people have not heard of it today. Many people who lived on plantations enjoyed using these horses because they were comfortable and also had an excellent gait. It would go on to become a very stylish horse. These horses are very popular in the state of Kentucky.

Saddlbreds work well with harnesses and have enough strength to perform work on a farm. They are also fast enough to be used in certain types of races. By the middle of the 18th century, the genes from the Morgan horse breeds were added to give the Saddlebred more power and speed. It was this combined with the Thoroughbred that allowed the American Saddlebred to be developed. These horses begin to become very popular after 1940. A stallion named Denmark was born in 1939, and about 60% of all American Saddlebreds today are descendants of this horse.

Saddlbreds are some of the most popular breeds of horses in the world, and have been owned by presidents, generals, and other prominent people. They have also been featured in many movies. These horses are well known for competing in show horse tournaments. American Saddlebreds are one of the most well known and popular breeds in the US. The looks and personality have made them sought after by many horse enthusiasts.

Michael Colucci is an experienced horse competitor and writes articles for horsegathering.com - A free site that includes horse articles, horse and tack marketplace, event calendar and a horse discussion forum.

Five Tips For Caring For Your Older Horse

He’s been your equine partner for years now. You’ve perhaps ridden in shows, through trails or even relocated across the country with your horse. You’ve been friends a long time, and it may be hard to admit, but you’ve noticed your horse is slowing down.

Don’t lose heart. Just like with people, advances in health care and nutrition are helping horses live longer, more productive lives, well into their senior years. But older horses do take a little extra care. Here’s a few ways to keep your aging buddy doing his best.

1. Give him light, consistent work. Your horse may not be able to keep up a workout routine for competitions, but he’s probably not ready to retire either. Keep him at a reasonable fitness level and he’ll feel and perform like a younger horse. The worst thing to do is let him get out of shape and then ride him hard some weekend when he hasn’t been ridden for months. That’s not fair to him and may spell trouble for you later.

2. Make sure your horse has regular vet check-ups. Don’t neglect the vet check-up even if your horse isn’t around many other horses anymore. Keep him up-to-date on vaccinations, like any horse, and make sure your vet begins looking for signs of arthritis or soundness issues. Sometimes cortisone shots given early can not only provide relief for aching joints, but can prevent further inflammation and stiffness later on.

Continued deworming is also important for the older horse. Horses more than 20 years old may have intestinal scarring from worm damage that occurred before modern larvicidal dewormers were available.

Have your veterinarian check your horse’s teeth at least once a year. The older a horse gets, the more likely his teeth will be worn into sharp points. They may even be wearing out completely.

3. Consider a senior feed. Older horses do not absorb as many nutrients from their food as younger horses. Couple that with worn-out, missing or damaged teeth, and many older horses have difficulty keeping weight on, especially through the winter months. Several senior feeds on the market today offer alfalfa-based pellets that are easy for older horses to chew, swallow and digest.

Many times older horses choose to eat very little hay. The senior feed is designed to cover all roughage requirements for the horse as well as provide the ideal vitamin and mineral balance for the older horse. Also, don’t feed your senior buddy with a younger, more aggressive horse. You want to make sure he doesn’t have to fight for his fair share.

4. Consider feed supplements. If you’ve never used a feed supplement, now may be the time. Talk to your veterinarian about what kind of supplement might be best for your horse. Biotin is great for hooves and coat. Other supplements can help with energy. Of course, glucosiamine is the standard supplement to keep joints healthy and lubricated.

5. Give him attention. It’s easy to forget about a horse you can’t use as much anymore, but if you can’t use him, maybe you should loan his services to someone who can. Many older, experienced show horses are great lesson horses. He could give a neighbor’s child a few lessons a week or stand still while you teach children how to properly groom a horse. He might be a great mount for a beginner rider, or an adult who doesn’t want any surprises. You could still take him on the occasional leisurely ride. Just don’t leave him untouched in a stall for days. At the very least, give him a buddy and plenty of turnout time.

It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree he’s worth it. With the proper care, many horses are living sound, productive lives well into their 20s.

Diane Samson is a writer with The Lieurance Group, a freelance writers cooperative in Kansas City, Missouri. Samson can provide writing, reporting and editing services for magazines, newspapers, corporate communications and especially animal publications. Find out more about her writing services at http://www.lieurancegroup.blogspot.com. or email her at: dianesamson@birch.net

How To Choose The Proper Hay For Your Horse

To have a strong and healthy horse it is important for you to feed them properly. Feeding them quality hay will give them the important nutrients and minerals they need. The amount of proteins needed by a horse are dependent on their metabolism, age, and rate of work. An adult horse will eat about 2% of its body weight every day, and experts recommend that half of the food eaten daily should be hay.

If your horse ways a thousand pounds, they should be eating at least ten pounds of hay each day. All hay is basically divided into two categories which are grass and legumes. Legume hay is much more nutritious than grass hay, and has more calcium and protein. While hay will not give horses all the vitamins and nutrients they need to stay healthy, it is essential for all horses whether they are used for competitions or not.

Once you have decided which type of hay is best for your horse it is important to study it. Find out if you like the smell or feel of the hay. Check inside the bales of hay to get a better look at it. Though some of the hay may be discolored, this is not a cause for concern. Choose hay which is green and soft. The stems on the hay should be fine. Don't buy hay which smells moldy and looks fermented.

Purchase hay which has been harvested while the plants were still in bloom. Study it to determine how mature it is. Don't purchase hay which has lots of dirt, weeds, or other materials which are not healthy for your horse. Make sure the hay doesn't have diseases or insects which could harm your horse. Ask the the person who grows the hay about any problems they've had with harvest in their area. Avoid purchasing hay from bales which are heavy or seem like they are wet. These are likely to have mold in them.

Once you have purchased the hay you want to place it in a dry place which is not in the sun, rain, or snow. If this is not possible, cover it with something than can protect it from these weather conditions. You may also want to have the hay checked by a specialist to make sure it is rich in content. The health of your horse is important, and you want to make sure you buy the best food you can afford.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Michael Colucci is an experienced horse competitor and writes articles for horsegathering.com - A free site that includes horse articles, horse and tack marketplace, event calendar and a horse discussion forum.

Buying a Pony or Horse: Tips to Help You Make the Best Choice

So, your little girl has been taking riding lessons for a year now and (surprise) she wants her own pony. Here’s how to begin.

First, talk to your child’s trainer. He or she may have an experienced lesson horse they would be willing to lease to you. That’s a good way to get your feet wet before you commit to the full-time obligation of caring for your own pony. Leasing arrangements vary, but usually you pay a monthly fee for riding privileges any time you want, as if it were your pony. You can ride, train and show the pony. You may also have to pay for farrier services (usually a hoof trim and/or reset shoes every six weeks), periodic de-worming and veterinary services.

If you can’t find a suitable leasing arrangement and are still interested in owning a pony, here are some tips and things to consider along the way.

1. What age do you want your pony or horse? An ideal age for a beginner rider horse is 10. You can go a little younger, if you want, but a well-trained 10-year-old horse has already experienced a lot of life. He probably won’t be as frisky as a younger horse and will be less likely to spook or act unpredictably. You are looking for a "bomb-proof" horse, especially for your child’s first mount. Ten years old is great, as well, because as your child grows, the horse will have many healthy years ahead of him for riding and showing.

2. What gender should your pony be? Common experience tells us that geldings are the best beginner mount, however, some mares can be excellent babysitters as well. The main drawback to a mare is that some get moody during their monthly cycles, and can even nip or kick. The other consideration is if you are ever going to have additional horses and plan to turn them out in a pasture together, it’s better not to have one mare and several geldings. Even though they are gelded, the males will still want to fight over the mare. You can avoid that headache by sticking with geldings. However, if you plan to always keep your horse in a stall in a stable with individual turnout, a mare can work out fine. Of course, a first-time owner should never buy a stallion.

3. Do you want a horse or pony? A small horse may be a better option than a pony for several reasons. First, your little one is going to grow up and may be faced in the future with having to sell her beloved pony because she's outgrown him or her.

Second, horses are a little easier to care for. Ponies are famous for foundering, a condition that occurs especially when a pony overeats rich grass. The safest bet for a pony is to never let him eat grass. Feed hay, a little grain and turn him out on dirt. Horses can founder as well, but not as easily as ponies.

If you have a pasture-only boarding situation, opt for a horse, not a pony. Some stables, however, have many ponies they turn out together on dirt. If your barn is set up to care properly for a pony, go ahead, if not, stick with a horse.

3. Look in the newspaper, on the internet, ask around at horse shows or call other trainers. Many trainers will help you find the perfect horse for a finder’s fee. It can be more expensive, but well worth it in the long run to have professional assistance. Taking along a trainer to look at a horse with you can give you confidence as well as an expert set of eyes and ears in the situation.

4. Once you have a prospect located, find out as much as you can about the horse or pony. What is its training or background? Has it showed and where? Does it have any bad habits or fears? Is it friendly toward other horses? Does it load in a trailer and can I do it myself? Does it or has it ever had any health problems? Why are you selling now?

5. Get a veterinarian check before you buy. This can cost up to $200, if it includes x-rays, but it can be well worth the expense and trouble. Coming home with a horse that immediately is lame can be a big disappointment. Consider the possibility, too, that the current owner may be giving the horse bute (horse aspirin) to hide lameness when you are looking at the horse.

6. Check out the horse unannounced. Show up at the horse’s stables or pasture when you are not expected. Ask to take the horse for a ride or to trot him on the lead rope to check for problems. Unfortunately, some people drug their horses to make them appear more calm than they really are. Arriving unannounced helps you see the pony as he really is.

7. Get ready for expenses. Make sure you understand and budget for all the expenses associated with owning a horse or pony. There are monthly boarding bills, which include food and care. You may also want to supplement your horse or pony with a hoof, coat or joint supplement. Your horse needs its hooves trimmed or shoes reset every six weeks. You also need an annual check from the veterinarian, which at least will include shots, teeth floating and a coggins test. Many owners give their horses twice yearly shots, as well as de-worming at least four times a year.

Of course, now there are expenses for saddles, blankets, bridles, bits, riding clothes, lessons, helmets, riding lessons and showing fees. If your trainer will transport your horse for you, great, if not, add a horse trailer to the list.

Finding the right horse or pony can be a long adventure. Don’t be tempted to pick one out of the paper and surprise your child with it at a birthday party. Considering the investment on your part, you want your child to fall in love with this animal, so his or her opinion needs to count as well. Finding the right equine companion for your child can begin a relationship that will last for years.

Diane Samson is a writer with The Lieurance Group, a freelance writers' cooperative in Kansas City, Missouri. Samson can provide writing, reporting and editing services for magazines, newspapers, corporate communications and especially animal publications. Find out more about her writing services at http://www.lieurancegroup.blogspot.com or email her at dianesamson@birch.net

Using Electrolytes to Avoid Equine Dehydration

For heat dissipation and body cooling, a horse trotting at 11.2 mph loses about 3.3 gallons of sweat per hour under moderate conditions. The salts/electrolytes sodium, potassium, chloride, magnesium and calcium are also lost with this loss of fluid. These electrolytes are responsible for the transfer of water through cell membranes, for nerves to fire and muscles to contract. Large losses of electrolytes can result in several neuromuscular and systemic disturbances including muscle cramping, tying up, synchronous diaphragmatic flutter (thumps) and systemic alkalosis.

Our goal as the equine caretaker is to prevent electrolyte imbalance and dehydration in the performance/stressed horse thru proper fluid and electrolyte replacement. Balance can greatly prolong reaching the point of fatigue and also decrease recovery time.

If you’re feeding a well formulated commercial ration intended for a performance horse, the chances are good that they’ve met the electrolyte needs of the lightly to moderately worked horse, under most conditions (always make plain salt available). Electrolyte availability can become a problem when the rate of loss exceeds the rate of replacement. If the horse sweats for a prolonged period of time, due to extreme weather conditions (high humidity, high heat), prolonged exercise (endurance type work), heavily worked/trained horses (race horses in training) or stressed horses (transporting), electrolyte needs will not always be met through their feed. For these horses, electrolyte supplementation becomes necessary to maintain body functions at an optimum level and to increase water intake preventing dehydration. Electrolytes should not be given to a horse that is already dehydrated, except under the supervision of a veterinarian.

Horses do not "store" sodium, potassium or chloride. Adding daily electrolyte supplementation would not be necessary, when feeding a balanced feeding program, unless the horse is being worked/trained hard daily and losing a large amount of sweat. When preparing for an event, choose an electrolyte formula that is palatable/acceptable to your horse, and don’t wait until the day of the competition to find out. Use caution if adding electrolytes to water due to the possibility of decreased water consumption.

There are lots of opinions about appropriate administration schedules and dose rates. Follow the instructions per the brand that you choose. Learn and adjust to your horses specific needs and weather conditions. Train your horse to the level needed for the event. Increased electrolytes will not replace proper conditioning.

Electrolytes containing bicarbonate are formulated for horses with diarrhea. These can be harmful when used as an electrolyte supplement for stress and exercise.

Feeding electrolytes without proper water consumption will cause water to be absorbed from the bloodstream into the intestine, resulting in greater dehydration. From a non-working to a heavy working saddle horse, the water intake can increase 7 â€" 10 gallons/day. Check for signs of dehydration regularly and don’t wait until your horse looks dehydrated to administer electrolytes. Learn to perform skin pinch, capillary and jugular refill and mucous membrane testing as well as listening for gut sounds. Continue with electrolyte supplementation when the event is completed to aid in recovery if necessary.

http://www.tdihorsefeeds.com
800-457-7577
Edna L. Morris

Comparison of Cost and Effectiveness of Holistic Care vs. Conventional Care for Horses

After years of practicing both conventional and holistic medicine for horses, I decided to compare the cost, effectiveness, and net results of managing and treating horses holistically versus conventionally. In this article I compare results for the average trail horse that is ridden about 2-3 times a week. I have used average feed and veterinary costs for my area (Austin, Texas), and drug and supplement costs from a major horse supply catalog. I then discuss the issues related to each area of care, including feed, supplements, vaccines, dewormers, and first aid. Stay tuned for different profiles in coming months, when I will compare horses in difference disciplines, young horses, older horses, and broodmares. >>> Holistic Horse <<<>>> Conventional Horse <<<><> Feed Costs <><> Grain is slightly cheaper to feed and easier to store than hay, which makes the conventional horse slightly cheaper to feed on the one hand. On the other hand, the holistic horse, which has access to more hay, stays happy and entertained and is less likely to develop expensive habits and vices such as chewing on wood, cribbing, or weaving. <><> Supplements <><> In the past, hay and oats provided all the nutrition a horse needed, but these days common farming practices do not produce feeds that are high in vitamins and minerals. Hoof quality is the first area to be affected by such poor nutrition, and few horses can maintain healthy feet on a diet of hay and oats alone. If you doubt this, just check any horse supply catalog. The one I checked offered 22 topical hoof conditioners and 28 separate supplements. Cell Tech’s Super Blue Green Algae offers a wide range of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants in a whole food form. It is inexpensive to feed, promotes healthy feet, and supports the horse in all aspects of health. <><> Vaccines <><> Some people will choose not to vaccinate at all while others will choose to use more vaccines than the ones I’ve listed in the trail horse comparison. I believe that over-vaccination is one of the most common triggers for chronic diseases such as laminitis and uveitis, and contributes to allergic conditions. Stressing the horse’s system with over-vaccination can also affect the digestive system, leading to mineral deficiencies. Stress also decreases the amount of healthy bacterial flora in the gut, increasing the likelihood of colic. <><> Dewormers <><> We are fortunate to have some fairly safe chemical dewormers such as Pyrantel and Fenbendazole, yet some people still prefer using natural products to support the horse’s digestive and immune systems rather than using chemical dewormers. Regardless of which method you use, it is wise to double check your program with fecal exams at least twice a year. <><> First Aid <><> When I practiced strictly conventional medicine I found that most horses suffered from minor injuries or infections at least several times a year. These minor emergencies kept me busy, and because they were so common most of my clients started keeping drugs on hand and learned to treat these conditions themselves. When I began to treat my patients more holistically, with fewer vaccines and better nutrition (including the use of probiotics such as Acidophilus), I noticed that the horses had less and less need for drugs. My patients no longer needed bute or antibiotics for minor cuts and punctures. These wounds healed quickly and easily with no loss of riding time. Gone also was the aggravating chronic nasal discharge that often kept horses out of work for weeks at a time. A holistically managed horse with a healthy immune system will often run a fever for a short period of time when exposed to a virus or bacteria. This response slows the pathogen’s growth and deprives it of nutrients. A short course of probiotics will help support the horse during this time. Once the fever breaks, the horse bounces back quickly with little nasal discharge or cough. These horses then go right back to work without concern about relapse. Conventionally managed horses taking anti-inflammatories and antibiotics will often get better in the short term, but then relapse or develop a chronic nasal discharge. <><> The Results Are In! <><> The trail horse example I have used above precisely demonstrates what I have experienced in my practice. While it costs about the same to manage a horse either conventionally or holistically, I’ve found that holistically managed horses are much healthier overall, which means fewer chronic problems and more days of riding time. In fact, conventionally managed horses have about 7 times the number of sick days as holistically managed horses.

The Boy Who Caught the Horse

The Horse

I bought Aries knowing that he had some issues. Not a problem, I like a challenge. One of the first problems we had to deal with is catching him. When I go out to catch a horse I make my intentions very obvious. I approach the horse with the halter and lead rope in my hand in plain sight. I NEVER use a bucket of grain to catch a horse. However, this can be especially difficult if the horse is in a large field. So, we have Aries in one of our large fields and all is calm, for the moment.

Something always happens 10 minutes before we have to leave

My wife and I were getting ready to go somewhere with the kids. My son and I were ready in about 15 minutes. Yes, this included a shower. My wife and daughter took a bit longer. Rachael, my wife, looks out the window and notices that Aries has somehow escaped. Aries is in an area adjacent to the field he was in were Rachael has a pretty nice garden. She informs me of the problem via our intercom system which consists of her vocal chords and a lot of wind, “Aries is in my garden!� I was all dressed up and knew I would be in big trouble if I got dirty. Rachael was still getting ready for our evening engagement. We decided that the horse would be OK there until we returned home. The garden might be a bit smaller but what could we do. We new it could be very difficult to catch Aries and were not ready to start a training session 10 minutes before we had to leave.

The Boy

I heard the door chime as someone opened the door. I didn’t think anything of it and continued to put stuff in the car and most important, find the keys to the car. About 8 minutes had pasted from when I heard to door chime. My son, Che, who was 8 years old at the time comes walking into the house and say, “OK, were do you want the horse?� “What?� I said. “I caught ‘em. Were ya want me to put ‘em?� Che said. I went outside and sure enough, Che had caught Aries. We only had the horse for a couple days and had not started working with him. He was impossible to catch even with a bucket of grain. But somehow Che had managed to approach the horse with lead rope and halter in hand and convinced the horse to lower his head down far enough so Che could put the halter on Aries. Still not too sure to this day why or how Che was able to catch Aries but he did it. Maybe it was his approach, calm, quiet and non-threatening. That is what I think. Perhaps I should keep an eye on this little horse whisperer, maybe I could learn a thing or two.

Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses. http://www.EverythingEquus.com