Using rewards and positive reinforcement to train your dog

Training dogs using positive reinforcement and reward training has long been recognized as both highly effective for the owner and a positive experience for the dog. Positive reinforcement training is so important that it is the only method used to train dangerous animals like lions and tigers for work in circuses and in the movie and television industry. Proponents of positive reinforcement swear by the effectiveness of their techniques, and it is true that the vast majority of dogs respond well to these training methods. One reason that positive reinforcement training is so effective is that is uses rewards to teach the dog what is expected of it. When the dog performs the desired behavior, he is provided with a reward, most often in the form of a food treat, but it could be a scratch behind the ears, a rub under the chin or a pat on the head as well. The important thing is that the dog is rewarded consistently for doing the right thing. Reward training has become increasingly popular in recent years, but chances are some sort of reward training between humans and dogs has been going on for hundreds if not thousands of years. When understanding what makes reward training so effective, some knowledge of the history of humans and dogs is very helpful. The earliest dogs were probably wolf pups that were tamed and used by early humans for protection from predators, as alarm systems and later for guarding and herding livestock. It is possible that the wolf pups that made the best companions were the most easily trained, or it is possible that these early dogs were orphaned or abandoned wolf pups. Whatever their origin, there is little doubt today that the vast variety of dogs we see today have their origin in the humble wolf. Wolf packs, like packs of wild dogs, operate on a strict pack hierarchy. Since wolf and dog packs hunt as a group, this type of hierarchy, and the cooperation it brings, is essential to the survival of the species. Every dog in the pack knows his or her place in the pack, and except in the event of death or injury, the hierarchy, once established, rarely changes. Every dog, therefore, is hard wired by nature to look to the pack leader for guidance. The basis of all good dog training, including reward based training, is for the handler to set him or herself up as the pack leader. The pack leader is more than just the dominant dog, or the one who tells all the subordinates what to do. More importantly, the pack leader provides leadership and protection, and his or her leadership is vital to the success and survival of the pack. It is important for the dog to see itself as part of a pack, to recognize the human as the leader of that pack, and to respect his or her authority. Some dogs are much easier to dominate than others. If you watch a group of puppies playing for a little while, you will quickly recognize the dominant and submissive personalities. A dog with a more submissive personality will generally be easier to train using positive reinforcement, since he or she will not want to challenge the handler for leadership. Even dominant dogs, however, respond very well to positive reinforcement. There are, in fact, few dogs that do not respond well to positive reinforcement, also known as reward training. Positive reinforcement is also the best way to retrain a dog that has behavior problems, especially one that has been abused in the past. Getting the respect and trust of an abused dog can be very difficult, and positive reinforcement is better than any other training method at creating this important bond. No matter what type of dog you are working with, chances are it can be helped with positive reinforcement training methods. Based training methods on respect and trust, rather than on intimidation and fear, is the best way to get the most from any dog.

A Reference Guide for Symphysodon Aequifasciatus (Discus)

This is general information on Discus, a member of the family Cichlidae. Although certainly not a complete reference guide, it will give those interested some background information on this exotic fish...

Symphysodon aequifasciatus (Discus)
Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes
) Order: Perciformes (perch-like fish)
Family: Cichlidae
Scientific Name: Symphysodon aequifasciatus

Other Scientific Name(s): Symphysodon aequifasciata, Symphysodon discus aequifasciata, Symphysodon aequifasciatus aequifasciatus, Symphysodon discus tarzoo, Symphysodon aequifasciata axelrodi, Symphysodon aequifasciata haraldi

Common Name: Discus

Range: South America: Brazil, Peru. Found on Amazon and Solimoes rivers of Brazil, from the lower Rio Putumayo-Ica and from Benjamin Constant to Belém. Has been introduced to the Rio Nanay in Peru.

Diet: Carnivorous. Frozen foods preferred, but will accept flake foods. Particularly like red bloodworms, but feeding “live” food is not recommended. Red worms, etc, should only be fed to discus once every other day. Beware of parasites or bacteria in the discus tank from live foods!

Temperament: Timid of strangers. Easily frightened, unless placed in a high traffic area. Can be very friendly to aquarist, oft-times eating out of the hand. If given a place to hide, they will tend to do so.

Sexing: Discus are hard to sex unless breeding. Normally, the male will be larger, and will present with longer fin extensions and a wider forehead.

Breeding: Buy either proven pairs or a group of young fish and allow them to pair themselves. The eggs are laid on a breeding cone. A clay flowerpot turned upside down works well. The fry must be kept with the parents after hatch, as they “feed” off the body slime of the parents. Special care must be taken to insure that fry do not injure the parents when getting larger. Watch for marks on the body of the pair, and if it begins to occur, the fry are ready to be moved to a community tank on their own. If left w/ the pair, serious injury can result.

Special Care: If kept specifically for breeding, a bare-bottomed tank is highly recommended.

Other Comments: To keep Discus well, water conditions are absolutely crucial. A PH of 6.3 to 6.9 is the optimal level for keeping discus. Water Temperature: Discus like it warm. They come from the Amazon basin, so water temps for these fish should be 80-84 degrees F, although some aquarists set the temperature as high as 90 degrees F.

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Alden Smith is a published author, and has been marketing on the internet for 7 years. His website, King Discus, is an active gathering place for discus breeders and lovers of discus fish. His wife Betsy is the administrator of All The Best Recipes a site rich in online recipes and cookbooks.

The Briard: A Dog Of Great Loyalty

The Briard traces its ancestry back to the days of Charlemagne. Known for centuries as a herding dog, it probably also fits into the category of "working dogs" as described in the American Kennel Club, for it also performs well as a guard dog and a selfless protector. In French folklore there are legends which tell of the dog's heroism and courageous acts of protection in the face of danger. The Briard was also used extensively during both World Wars as a messenger dog.

The Briard was admitted into the French Kennel Club in 1909, although the dog was first entered into French Expositions as early as 1863. The breed did not appear in Great Britain until 1960 and was not admitted into the American Kennel Club until 1975. It has gradually gained a group of admirers.

The Briard has a majestic appearance, standing tall between 23 and 27 inches at the shoulder. His coat is long and double in nature, requiring regular brushing. The coat falls in waves along the sides and covers the entire body, even the fronts of the legs. The ears can be either cropped, in which case they stand erect, or they are folded. In either case the ears are also covered with long hair. Typically the hair falls over the face and the eyes will not be seen. The tail should have a distinctive "crochet hook" at the tip. The coloring is usually a tan or fawn although it may be black or gray. The coat should always be of one color, not bi-colored, although there may be black tips to the hairs in a fawn colored dog there should never be a distinct "pattern" of black. The over all appearance of the dog should be one of strength and the stride should be ground covering, evidence of this will be that the rear should be well angulated and there should be good "layback" of the front shoulders.

The Briard is essentially a healthy dog which has few genetic disorders. There is as usual in larger dogs a tendency for hip dysplasia to be present and the dog should be x-rayed before being used for breeding. Also Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) is present in some instances so this should also be tested.

This is not a breed for everyone, for it is an extremely loyal dog who shows affection only for its owner, a true "one-man" or "one-family" " dog who will be suspicious of strangers and will protect his owners with his life if necessary. He is not and should not be aggressive without provocation, it is simply that this is a breed that does not care to show any notice of anyone besides his own immediate family. He is generally a happy dog, never roaming far from home. This is a breed that will put his mind and body to any task that is asked of him, although he is known as an independent thinker, he is also extremely devoted to his owner and will not sway from his devotion.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Your Puppy Won't Use Her Crate? Our Expert Tells You Some Inside Secrets

Many people view a kennel or crate from a human perspective - a cage, or prison. Yet, if it is properly introduced, a dog crate provides a sense of security for your pet; a place of her own. At the same time, a dog that is comfortable in a crate is easier to housebreak and travels well. It is important to get the right size crate for your dog while she is a puppy. It is best to get a crate that will fit her as an adult - she'll quickly grow into it! Ideally, the crate should be large enough to allow an adult dog to stand up and turn around, with about four inches of extra space in length. Its important that you find out how large your puppy could grow to - there are plenty of books or websites that can give you this information. Very young puppies should not be crated for any length of time as they will not be house trained and will soil the crate. If your puppy messes in his crate do not punish him. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer. The odor of ammonia-based products resembles urine and your dog will attempt to urinate in the same spot again. You will need to teach your dog that the crate is hers. Some dogs take longer than others to "catch on" to their special place. This is not an indication that the dog doesn't like the crate, just a result of unique personalities each dog has. Training your dog to use the crate requires a number of small steps, as well as patience. The kennel should always be associated with pleasant moments. If you force your dog into the crate or get angry at her, she will see the crate as a bad thing. Spend time with your dog while she is inside so that your dog does not associate being in the crate with being left alone or abandoned. To introduce the crate to your dog, sit beside it with treats in your hand and call her to you. When she comes to you, give her a treat and lots of verbal praise in a happy voice. Place a treat at the entrance of the crate, and after she takes it, toss one into the crate. Each time you place a treat inside, give a unique command so she begins to associate the behavior with the command. This will help your dog to associate positively with the crate. End the session before the dog loses interest. Once your dog enters the crate easily, begin using a ball or toy - if you keep using food your dog may develop behavior problems. Crates and kennels are comforting for dogs and excellent tools for housebreaking, but they should be used carefully. Puppies will need to be taken out of the kennel during the night to relieve themselves. Never leave any dog confined to a crate for more than 6 hours - they will become bored and can develop behavior problems as a result. Never use the crate as a punishment, as you will be unable to use it when you need to - your puppy should be happy to go into the crate at any time. Making use of these simple tips and suggestions will make your life, and the life of your puppy, much easier in the future.

Traveling With Your Chihuahua

Travel season is finally here again and that means hundreds of cats and dogs will be lost and never again found by their heartbroken owners. Many years ago I lost a dog for three days. They were among the worst days of my life but I learned a valuable lesson. No matter how careful and protective you think you are, it still can happen…even to you.

Before you set out for your travel adventures this year, take some precautions to be sure your Chihuahua stays safely with you at all times. Make your travel as great for your Chihuahua as it is for you.

So, what are some of the things you can do to prepare for your trip with your Chi?

Bring a harness with you and be sure it is secured properly on your Chi before opening any doors. I prefer a harness because of the Chihuahua’s susceptibility to a collapsed trachea. The harness, if fit properly to the Chi’s size, will put less pressure on the throat, or possibly no pressure at all. They are also more difficult for the Chi to slip out of.

Bring plenty of bottled water for both you and your Chihuahua. You may not always have fresh water available to you on your travels. You don’t want your Chi to drink any water that you can’t be 100% certain is fit for consumption.

Take your veterinary records and information with you. Place the documentation in a sealable plastic bag to protect it from getting wet or damaged. This will be very helpful should you have any emergencies along the way. Your Chihuahua may have an allergic reaction to something or simply have an unexpected medical emergency. If this happens you will want to be able to have quick contact with your own veterinarian for advice. Be sure you have their emergency number, as well as their regular office number.

Pack an ample supply of fresh food and treats. Plastic containers, like Tupperware, are great for keeping food and treats fresh. Be sure to check the package for refrigeration needs, if any. Like people food, some pet foods require refrigeration once opened. Unless you have an RV or other means of keeping the food cold for long periods of time, you may want to be careful of what you bring. Not all pet foods will necessarily be readily available to purchase along your travels. Once opened, food can spoil very quickly.

Plan to make scheduled stops to let your Chi get some exercise and do their duty, so to speak. The fresh air and movement will be good for you too. However, be careful of where you walk your Chi. It is not uncommon to find broken glass and other dangerous items along roadside stops.

Did you know that you can have a rice-sized microchip implanted in the scruff of your Chi’s neck for tracking purposes should he/she become lost? Check with your Veterinarian or local animal hospital for more information on this unique tracking device. Many pets have been reunited with their rightful owners because of this tiny implant. These chips can be scanned by veterinarians and other medical facilities for the information necessary to bring your pet back home to you.

Pack your favorite shampoos and drying towels.

Don’t forget flea and tic treatment. While these may not be necessary at home if your Chi is an indoor dog and using a litter box, when traveling they may need to go outdoors to relieve themselves.

Bandages are a good thing to have along in case they step on a small piece of glass or other sharp item at the many stops you will be making along the way.

Pack your Chi’s favorite sweater. Depending on where you live, where you’re traveling too, and when you are leaving, you may have a cool evening or two. Chihuahuas get cold very easily so have a coat or sweater just in case.

Bring a carrier or two. If you are traveling by plane you will want an airline approved carrier that can fit under the seat of the plane while in the air. When on the ground you may prefer a purse style carrier to keep your Chihuahua from being stepped on while shopping or in a crowd. These are available in various styles and sizes.

Okay, I know this seems like a lot of packing but it will be worth your while. Following are items you need to consider bringing with you when traveling with your pet:

• Bandages and wound treatment

• Bottled water

• Carrier (airline and/or purse style)

• Crate (if your Chi is used to being in one and you have room for it.)

• Crate bedding material

• Feeding dish and water dish

• Fresh food and treats

• Grooming needs (brush or wipe cloth)

• Harness

• Pet Blanket, bed or pillow

• Sweater

• Shampoo

• Drying Towels

• Medication (flea, tic, skin, other)

• Toys

• Veterinarian: regular phone no. and emergency phone no.

• Veterinarian: medical records (history)

• Veterinarian: list of ones along the route you are taking.

The bottom line is take precautions, prepare ahead of time, have a check list to be sure nothing is left behind by accident, and have a great vacation or trip with no mishaps along the way that can’t be handled quickly and easily.

A long trip is much more pleasant if you are properly prepared and if everyone is able to stretch frequently so don’t be in a hurry to reach your destination. Enjoy the trip from start to finish.

About The Author Joanell is the founder of Weller Solutions, a company dedicated to pets, and a lover of Chihuahua dogs. For more information and products please visit http://www.aboutchihuahuadogs.com Visit Joanell’s Blog at: http://www.aboutchihuahuadogs.blogspot.com This article may be freely reprinted without any changes made. The links to aboutchihuahuadogs.com and aboutchihuahuadogs.blogspot.com must be kept, as they are, in the article and must be clickable. A courtesy copy to weller752@cox.net would be appreciated. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joanell_Hutchinson

Getting Ready For Your Pet Bunny Rabbit

How To Teach Your Children The Proper Care For Your Pet Rabbit! Children are naturally innately drawn to cute, cuddle-y little creatures, and they will probably want to pick up, stroke and play with your new pet rabbit. But while this may be tempting, it's potentially quite dangerous -- both to the bunny and to your child. Rabbits are sociable animals and generally like human companionship, but unlike dogs and some cats, they do not enjoy the same type of close contact. They are ground-dwelling creatures and prefer to have all they're legs on the ground. If your child tries to pick up your new pet, the rabbit will likely squirm, claw and perhaps even fall to the floor. Moreover, children may want to rough-house with their new pet, but rabbits can easily be harmed by such behavior, because their bodies are so fragile. For all these reasons it is essential to teach children in advance about what to expect from their pet and how to treat their new fuzzy friend. Read the next chapter, which is all about understanding handling your new rabbit, and then sit down for a talk with your kid or kids. Explain that rabbits are not like other pets, and that they don't like being picked up. Also, be aware that rabbits do not respond well to stressful or very noisy environments, so households with very hyperactive or very loud children may just not be suitable to a pet bunny. And if you have a particularly energetic young child, you should certainly supervise the child's playtime with the rabbit, so that you can affirm good behavior and correct bad habits. There are several supplies you will want to purchase before you bring you new pet bunny home. You will need to have most if not all of the following items on hand: Cage Water bottle Food dish Food pellets Fresh veggies Hay Litter box/pan Rabbit toys Make sure that you have enough of those essential supplies on hand before you bring your rabbit home, so that you don't have to run out and buy supplies while you're in the midst of getting your new pet settled into your house. by Andrea Austin, http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

Seizures & Your Pet

Definition Seizures have specific characteristics according to if they are generalized or partial. Generalized Seizures There is whole body involvement with some or all of the following signs: loss of consciousness (the pet is unaware of its surroundings and doesn't respond to its name when called), loss of control of the legs (collapse or involuntary twitching or jerking of the legs), loss of control of the head (clamping motions of jaw), and loss of control of bladder and rectum (urination and/or defecation). Partial seizures There is partial body involvement with either involuntary head or leg movements or sometimes, abrupt behavioral changes. The seizure itself is often followed by a period of disorientation that may last a few minutes to several hours. Other episodes that can look like seizures are fainting spells associated with heart disease and/or arryhthmias or sleep disorders. Causes Causes of seizures can originate from the brain (intracranial) or outside the brain (extracranial). Intracranial causes Epilepsy (recurring seizures in a young to middle aged dog or cat after other causes have been ruled out), trauma, migrating parasites, viral infections, bacterial infections, immune-mediated diseases, tumors Extracranial causes Low blood sugar levels (hypoglycemia); common in small breed puppies, poorly regulated diabetic cats, and dogs with pancreatic tumors (insulinomas) Low calcium levels (hypocalcemia); can occur in small breed pregnant dogs or shortly after birthing, or hyperthyroid cats that recently have undergone surgery Toxicities with organ dysfunction: liver, kidney Ingested toxins: snail bait (metaldehyde), antifreeze (ethylene glycol), lead, insecticides, rodenticides (strychnine, bromethalin), Diagnosis Complete blood panel including chemistries can rule out most extracranial causes. If these are normal, the problem is most likely originating from the brain. The brain, unfortunately, is inaccessible to easily performed tests. Other tests Tests to assess brain function and structure are often invasive, costly, require special equipment and must be done under general anesthesia. These procedures include: CSF taps (sample of the cerebral spinal fluid) to evaluate for inflammation or infection; EEG (electroencephalogram) to assess brain wave activity; magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and computed tomography (CT) scans are used to check for masses such as tumors, abscesses or other lesions. Because of the difficulty involved with completely assessing the brain, the diagnosis of epilepsy is often based on normal blood results, an animal's age, breed, and a recurrent pattern of seizures. Depending on the frequency and/or intensity of the seizures, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment to control them. While the goal of treatment is to abolish seizures completely, this may not be feasible. But often the frequency and intensity can be lessened to allow the pet to have a good quality of life. Treatment is usually life long. Treatment If seizures are associated with a specific cause (hypoglycemia, hypocalcemia), this is addressed. If epilepsy is diagnosed, treatment options include: Monitoring without treatment If the seizures happen infrequently (1-6 times a year) and aren't long lasting, some owners opt for their animals "to live with it" rather than giving daily medication. Ideally, you should keep track of the frequency and duration of your animal's seizures, and your veterinarian should be contacted if the frequency, duration and/or intensity of the seizures increases. Medications Regardless of the type of medication chosen to control your pet's seizures, it is important you stay in close contact with your veterinarian with the goal of minimizing the seizures. These drugs can be used at a low doses initially, but increasing the dose and/or adding on other drugs may be necessary if seizures persist. Any changes in drug dosages and/or frequencies of administration should only be done on the advice of your veterinarian. * Phenobarbital This may be obtained from your veterinarian or through an outside pharmacy.  It must be given 2 times daily; the dosage is adjusted according to if the seizures are controlled.  This medication will cause increased thirst, increased urine output, hunger and sometimes weight gain. Drowsiness is common when first starting the medication.  Since it is metabolized by the liver, elevation in liver enzymes is common.  Care must be taken when other drugs are given to a patient on phenobarbital since negative drug - drug interactions can occur. * Potassium Bromide This medication can be obtained only through some, but not all, outside pharmacies.  It is given 1-2 times daily in the form of a compounded liquid or pill. The dosage and frequency is adjusted according to if the seizures are controlled. When given once daily, it is usually given in the evening.  Since the liquid is bitter tasting, it is recommended to give it with food.  This medication will occasionally cause drowsiness when first started. * Valium (diazepam)- This medication can be obtained through any outside pharmacy.  This drug alone usually can not effectively manage seizure patients for long term control. Given as needed, it is useful for short term control of seizures when it is given immediately orally when a pet is recovering from a seizure. This is to prevent yet another seizure from occurring ("clustering").  A few dogs will have such intense seizures that they may necessitate administration of injectable valium (given rectally via syringe), given by the owners at home. Management If no seizures have occurred for a year or more, sometimes the drug doses are decreased. This should only be done after consulting with your veterinarian. If seizures persist, the medication must be continued, and the dosage is often increased or combined with another medication. This should only be done after consulting with your veterinarian Drug blood levels and panels and monitoring Doing general blood panels, especially to evaluate liver enzymes while on phenobarbital treatment, and electrolytes when on potassium bromide treatment, are important in monitoring your pet's overall health. These are recommended at least yearly. These can be done at any time in relation to time of administration of the drugs. Measurements of drug levels of phenobarbital and potassium bromide are usually done within 6-8 weeks of starting these medications. It is recommended to test levels yearly and following a change in dosing. These are timed tests so that it is important when scheduling appointments for measurement of drug levels, it is correlated with when the medication was administered. Phenobarbital levels are done within 10-12 hours post pilling and potassium bromide levels are checked just prior to the time when the pet normally receives the medication. There are no blood levels done to evaluate valium levels. When your pet does have a seizure, stay calm and provide a quiet environment (dim the lights and avoid loud noises). Do not put your fingers in its mouth. Note the duration and intensity of the seizure and contact your veterinarian. If you have questions regarding this disease and its treatment, do not hesitate to contact your veterinarian. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.