Chihuahuas: Dog Breed For You?

Chihuahuas are one of the most popular dog breeds today, especially after the famous Taco Bell commercials. They are the smallest of any breed, which is another reason why they everyone likes them. Even though they are so common, this does not mean that this is the dog for you. These dogs are not for everyone.

The Chihuahua dog was named after a region in Mexico called Chihuahua. It is the oldest breed in America. Even though this breed is native to Mexico, the Chinese introduced it. At the end of the nineteenth century it was brought to Europe and has become more and more popular since then. Most people today want these dogs as small as can be and the smallest are often the most expensive.

The Chihuahua breed comes in two varieties, long haired and short haired. Both coat types come in many colors, such as brown, black, fawn, white and silver. They weigh between two and six pounds and their height is only six to nine inches. They also have the longest life span of any breed and regularly live over fifteen years.

Each Chihuahua has its own personality, so not many generalizations can be made about the breed. Most Chihuahuas are very devoted and loyal to their owners. This causes jealousy and suspicion when strangers are around. They are very courageous, lively, strong-willed, bold and fearless. With their owners, these dogs are very gentle and loving. However, because they are so protective of their owners, they are very wary of strangers.

Chihuahuas do not do well with other dogs except for their own breed. If they are around other dog breeds they tend to be aggressive. They are also not recommended for children. These dogs need to be socialized extensively from a puppy to prevent aggressiveness with strangers and other dogs. If they are not socialized they can become so wary of other people that they will bite.

If you have a short haired Chihuahua it will only require occasional brushing, however, the long haired variety requires brushing several times a week. This dog is an average shedder. When bathing them, you must be sure not to get water in their ears because they are very susceptible to ear infections. When this dog is a puppy, they are very fragile and you must be very careful with them. Also, they cannot handle the cold, so it is recommended that they be kept inside. If you bring them outside, you should put a warm sweater on them.

The breed does have several health problems that owners need to be aware of. They have a very short nose which causes them to sneeze and snore. Because their eyes are so large, they are prone to corneal dryness. Other common health problems include colds, stress, gum problems and rheumatism. You need to be sure not to over-feed Chihuahuas because they gain weight very easily.

Chihuahuas can be difficult to train, but if you are consistent they do well. The best way to train them is to use positive reinforcement. They do not respond well to other forms of discipline.

Chihuahuas make great pets if they have intense socialization and consistent training. The Chihuahua's extremely small size makes it a great dog for people that live in apartments. It is very adaptable and hardy, but must live inside. They are good companions that travel very easily and are very loving to their owners.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs.

Invisible Electric Dog Fences - Information that Might "Shock" You

The question is: are electric dog fences inhumane? The answer, unfortunately, is not so simple. People (and dogs) fall on both sides of the fence, so to speak.

It seems that an invisible electric dog fence is the perfect solution to keep your pet within the boundaries of your home, without having to put up a fence they may detract from the design of your home and your yard. Of course, is the beauty of an invisible “fence” worth the chance of injuring your beloved pet? Certainly not.

Here is what you need to know about invisible electric dog fences:

· They are not as inhumane as people might think.

· They do not deliver a full out shock â€" rather, the shock that your pet receives as it tries to cross the line is more similar to a static electricity shock that we can give after rubbing our feet along the carpet and then touching someone. Before you buy a shock collar, ask to test out the shock on yourself -- if it feels awful, then you want one with a lower shock power.

· Again, it is important to note that the shock that your dog would receive should not be painful â€" it is merely uncomfortable, something that your dog will want to avoid.

· Many shock collars have multiple levels of stimulation â€" you can keep yours on the lowest setting.

· The collars cannot burn your dog’s neck, even when at the highest setting.

· For years, electric fences have been used to control livestock…

· A mild shock is a million times better for your dog than what could await it if it escaped â€" a mild shock is not nearly the as bad as the dangers of traffic or running away.

· It is OK if your dog get stuck in a severe rain storm with its collar on â€" it will not electrocute it.

· The batteries may run out on your shock collar, and you will therefore have to replace them. Of course, once your dog has learned the boundaries, it is much less likely to cross them.

· Realize that you can simply set up and electric fence and expect your dog to immediately understand â€" you must still train your dog.

· Remember that an electric fence does not keep other dogs from entering your yard and attacking your dog, nor does it keep your dog from attacking children that might walk up to it.

· Your dog may still be able to cross over the boundary! And once on the other side, there is nothing to stop your dog.

· Your dog may not connect the electric shock directly with the boundary. Instead, if your dog is shocked when, say, a child is walking by, the association might be child=shock. There is a chance that your training could backfire!

All in all, you should not listen to people who say that the shock collars used with invisible fences are extremely dangerous. Very rarely have there been any serious incidents associated with these collars.

You should, however, be aware of other problems (such as other animals and humans being able to enter your yard at will) that could be solved by getting a “visible” fence, rather than an invisible electric dog fence.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, pets, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on pet containment, please visit Invisible Electric Dog Fences.

Alarm Clock Kitty, How to Stop Early Morning Meowing

Meow! Meow! Meow! I bury my head underneath my pillow. Meow! Meow! Meoooooow! The high pitched meowing persists and penetrates through my feather stuffed shield. Meow! Meow! Meow! My eyes open only with the greatest of efforts. Grudgingly, I drag myself out of my warm bed and look at the clock; 3:47 am. I reach over to the night-stand and turn on the light, pain is the result, the light, so bright, the light is, so, so bright. My wife rolls over on her side and I can see the annoyed look on her scrunched up little face. "Must.... feed.... demon... cat...." I say to myself as I trudge to the kitchen to empty a can of cat food into the little yellow cat dish. The cat has by this time woken up the entire household and I wouldn't be surprised if the neighbors were also awake.

Our cat is a loud cat. Unnervingly loud. 747 jet-engine loud. And there was a time that she woke up every morning before even the sun had the nerve to peek over the horizon. Our loveable little ball of fur wanted to be fed. While the rest of the household was fast asleep our sweet little kitty wanted to have some food to suck down her gullet. This caused quite a bit of frustration for us, especially since this was not a one time thing. No, this was indeed becoming her morning ritual. Every morning, our cat would sit in front of our door and meow at the top of her little kitty lungs the most blood curdling meows I had ever had the displeasure of hearing. Our initial reaction, after caving in and feeding her several nights/early mornings in a row, was to put her in the laundry room before my wife and I went to sleep at night. This, however, was not the best solution in the world, our cuddly little black mass didn't seem to like it very much and after a while she wasn't the warm and cuddly cat we knew before.

There must to be another solution to this dilemma. Fortunately, there is. What your cat is, is what has been termed as an "alarm clock kitty", what that is, is a cat that wakes up very early (or stays up very late) and begins to meow at approximately the same time every single, bloody day in expectation of being fed. Unfortunately for those of us who enjoy sleeping at night this is a natural behavior in cats and while the problem may not happen to every cat owner it happens to many. So what can you do? Even though cats have been domesticated animals for thousands of years now dating back to ancient Egypt, they still have retained most of their wild instincts and this is a cat's natural instinct; hunt and feed. Cats are predatory animals, they hunt, and the cat's natural time to hunt generally falls between dusk and dawn because most of the prey they hunt are nocturnal (rats, mice and other rodents). So, if you can't or don't want to let your cat out at night to hunt on her own what should you do?

Training your cat to stop this behaviour may be fairly easy, but be warned, it will take a little patience on your part but a good night's sleep may be the reward. What you need is a cat toy, preferably a mouse or something similar, a piece of string and a stick. Attach the cat toy to a string and the string to the stick. While you are watching your bedtime TV or doing whatever your before bedtime ritual is take your cat toy and play a hunting game with her. Cats love to chase things because of their hunting instinct. Play with your cat for about 15 minutes, enough time to tire your cat out and give her the satisfaction of having hunted. During your game create as realistic a hunting scenario as you can, make noises like a mouse (or whatever animal you are emulating) squeaking or scurrying through the brush. Let your cat catch the toy from time to time so that your cat will feel as if she was involved in a successful (rather than a frustrating) hunt. Towards the end gradually slow down the game drawing your little hunt to a close. Your cat will probably be sufficiently tired by this time. At the end of the game feed your cat something you know she likes. You don't need to feed her a full sized meal, but feed her an amount sufficient enough to satisfy her hunger. A handful of cat treats or a little piece of left over pork chop may be sufficient. Then go to sleep. In all likelihood your cat will be satisfied and will not continue her ritual of waking you up every morning.

You may need to continue your hunting game with your cat for a week or two before the early morning meowing goes away, and even after it does its a good idea to play this game with your cat from time to time in order to keep the behavior from returning and to keep your cat feeling like an accomplished hunter. But if you follow this routine you should be able to satisfy your cat and get a little shut eye at the same time.

Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.

Dog Training: Teaching Your Dog to Sit On Command

Besides the excitement of getting a puppy, one of the most challenging parts of dog ownership is teaching the dog to be obedient and establishing yourself as the dominant one in the dog-owner relationship. One of the basic obedience training points relevant in this regard is teaching your dog to sit on command.

As with every other dog training procedure, it is important to note that dogs are not humans and thus do not share your language or pattern of communication. It is important to bear this in mind, so that you will appreciate the essence of patience. For any reasonable results with dog training, it is important to be patient and repetitive with the training. Repetitions enable your dog to establish connections between your verbal commands and the action required of it. You should also learn to praise your dog every time he gets it right. Finally, the training sessions should not be boring to either of you. It is a good idea to keep the lessons short to start with and increase the time as you continue.

There are several training techniques to teach your dog to sit on command. Most dog trainers believe that you can start training your dog to sit at around three months old.

The first technique is simple and very good for young puppies. When you see your puppy about to sit, say the command 'sit' firmly and when your dog sits, praise him for getting it right. In no time, your puppy learns to associate the verbal command with the act of sitting and you can then get your puppy to sit just by saying it.

The above technique might not be that effective for older puppies. With older puppies, you can practice this second technique. With your dog in front of you, hold a tasty treat and pass it across the dog's nose and continue over his head a few centimeters high. In the process of trying to follow the motion of your hand, your dog assumes a sitting position. As soon as your dog plants his behind on the ground, say the word 'sit' firmly. If he sits down, reward him for it. Later you will not need the treat to make your dog sit on command.

Getting your dog to remain sitting shouldn't be as difficult. The idea is that when you command your dog to sit, he should remain sitting until you tell him to leave the sitting position. All you have to do is make your dig sit until you say a 'release' word that signifies that he is free to go. When in the sitting position, call your dog's name and add the 'release' word/statement. Your dog should come to you. With time, the dog understands that the word means he can stop sitting. During the training sessions, if your dog gets up before the release word, show him your disapproval and make him sit again. This way, the dog understands that he is supposed to sit until you say the release word.

These are just a few of the several techniques that can help with your dog training. Again, remember that you may not get instant results, but repetition, patience and rewarding your dog every time he gets it right, will work in the end.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dog Training.

Kidney Failure (Chronic Renal Failure)

What You Should Know If My Pet Is Still Making Plenty of Urine, How Can There Be Kidney Failure? In chronic kidney failure, urine is usually produced in excessive quantities. What the kidneys are failing to do is conserve water (they are failing to make concentrated urine). The body produces numerous toxins on a moment by moment basis. These toxins circulate to the kidneys where, dissolved in water, they are filtered out and urinated away. An efficient kidney can make a highly concentrated urine so that a large amount of toxin can be excreted in a relatively small amount of water. When the kidneys fail over a long time period, they lose their ability to concentrate urine and more water is required to excrete the same amount of toxin. The animal will begin to drink more and more to provide the failing kidneys with enough water. Ultimately, the animal cannot drink enough and toxin levels begin to rise. Weight loss, listlessness, nausea, constipation, and poor appetite become noticeable. It is common for animals, especially cats, to have a long history of excessive water consumption when they finally come to the vet's office with one of the latter complaints. What Is my Veterinarian Reading on the Blood Panel? If you wish to understand your pet's status with regard to kidney failure, it is important to understand some of the parameters being monitored. Urine Specific Gravity - This is a measure of how concentrated a urine sample is. Water has a specific gravity of 1.000. A dilute urine sample has a specific gravity less that 1.020 (often less than 1.010). A concentrated urine sample would have a specific gravity over 1.030 or 1.040. Blood Urea Nitrogen (BUN) - This is a protein metabolite excreted by the kidney (it is one of the toxins we are concerned about). In a normal animal, the BUN is 25 or so. A good goal for BUN in kidney failure is 60 to 80. Often at the time of diagnosis, BUN is well over 150, 200, or even 300. Creatinine- This is another protein metabolite (though this one is less dependent on dietary protein intake than is BUN). A normal creatinine is less than 2.0. A good goal in kidney failure is a creatinine of 4.5 or less. BUN and creatinine will be tracked (as will several other parameters) over time and in response to different treatments. Phosphorus - The calcium/phosphorus balance becomes deranged in kidney failure due to hormone changes that ensue as well as the inability of the failing kidney to excrete phosphorus. If calcium and phosphorus levels become too high, the soft tissues of the animal's body will develop mineralized deposits which are inflammatory and uncomfortable. The bones will weaken as well. If phosphorus can be maintained in the normal range (less than 7.5), a medication called calcitriol can be used to help prevent or slow the progression of kidney failure. Medications and special diets can be used to help keep phosphorus levels down. Potassium - The failing kidney is unable to conserve potassium efficiently and supplementation may be needed. Signs of hypokalemia (the scientific name for low blood potassium) include weakness, especially drooping of the head and neck. Packed Cell Volume/Hematocrit - This is a measure of red blood cell amount. More literally it represents the percentage of the blood made up by red blood cells. The hormone that stimulates the production of red blood cells is made by the kidney. The failing kidney does not make this hormone in normal amounts and anemia can result. Anemia is often worsened by the extra fluid administrations needed to manage the kidney toxins. Sometimes a blood transfusion is needed or, more commonly, the owner of the pet must learn how to give hormone injections to boost the red blood cell count. Blood Pressure - Blood pressure is not something measured off a laboratory result sheet but it is important to monitor in kidney patients as there is a tendency for hypertension to develop in kidney failure. Special medications may be needed to manage this problem should it arise. The owner who plans to be involved with monitoring of the pet's condition at home should become familiar with these terms and even get a copy of the pet's lab results for their own records. Your veterinarian is likely to have a handwritten chart in your pet's record showing changes in the above parameters; it's not a bad idea to start your own folder and chart at home. What Are the Treatment Options? What one does to address this problem depends on its stage at the time of diagnosis. More advanced cases will require hospitalization for a cycle of diuresis. Fluids are delivered intravenously for 48 to 72 hours and the above parameters are rechecked. The goal is to stabilize the patient at a toxin level where good life quality can be indefinitely experienced. Milder cases can be managed with fluid administration under the skin (subcutaneous fluids) at home. This sounds scary at first but, in fact, it is not uncomfortable for the pet and is easy to learn. Also available (but very expensive) are dialysis, where a machine filters the toxins from the patient's blood, and kidney transplantation. What Sort of Treatments Might my Pet Require at Home? Special Diet: Most prescription diet companies produce a diet with restricted protein (so as to generate less BUN), restricted phosphorus, and with other important qualities to promote metabolic health in kidney patients. Many clinics stock K/D diet made by Hills and Select Care Modified made by Innovative Veterinary Diets. In some cases, simply switching to this food may be adequate treatment. There is no preventive benefit that we know of in changing to these diets prior to the onset of kidney failure. Amphojel/Phosphate Binders: Amphojel is an antacid caplet used for stomach upset in people. It also binds phosphates in the diet when it is given with food. This reduces the phosphorus intake from the GI tract and helps normalize the blood phosphorus level. Calcitrol: This medication actually represents activated vitamin D. Vitamin D is not a vitamin in the way other vitamins are or in the way we think of vitamins; vitamin D is actually a hormone. It plays an important role in calcium phosphorus balance and is beneficial in preventing the progression of kidney failure when it is administered while phosphorus levels are still normal. Our experience with this medication has been excellent and we recommend its use in appropriate patients whole-heartedly. The doses that are used are exceedingly small and must be compounded by a special pharmacy. If your pet qualifies to take this medication, special instructions on how to obtain it will be given to you. Tumil K: This potassium supplement is available in a powder, tablet, or gel. If a patient does not seem to be maintaining a normal potassium level, such a supplement may be prescribed. Epogen/Erthropoeitin: In older times, anabolic steroids were used to address the anemia (low red cell count) of chronic kidney disease. With the advent of genetic engineering, the actual hormone the kidney has stopped producing can be given by injection. This is done usually at home 2 to 3 times a week along with an oral iron supplement. This treatment has helped many patients dramatically as the anemia that goes with kidney disease can be very debilitating. The downside to this treatment is that the product commercially available for use is of human origin and pets will ultimately produce antibodies against it (and worse still against their own remaining hormone). For this reason, this hormone is not used until anemia is more advanced and the patient really needs this treatment. Amlodipine (brand name Norvasc): It is difficult to find a blood pressure medication that is not also toxic to the kidneys. Amlodipine is a calcium channel blocker type medication commonly used in hypertensive cats with renal failure. It also must be compounded specially in cat sized doses. Fluids Under the Skin: This technique is important to learn as most pets in kidney failure require this treatment either right away or following hospitalization. If this process is recommended for your cat, you will receive lessons on how this technique is performed. Kidney failure is a complicated disease with many facets. Please do not hesitate to contact your veterinarian should you have questions or problems at home. You will periodically be contacted when it is time for your pet to have monitoring tests. You Are Not Alone: Further Resources Chronic renal failure is a common disease and there are many pet owners just like you all sharing thoughts, tips, and information over the internet. If you are interested in exploring these resources, here is what is available: A large information area has been structured at http://www.felinecrf.com/ by the owner of Avatar, a cat who ultimately succumbed to his kidney failure. While this site is especially geared for cat owners, its information is certainly applicable to dog owners as well. For those with America On-Line subscriptions, there is a weekly feline chronic renal failure chat to which all are welcome. This chat is held on Sundays from 5 to 6 pm Pacific Time in the private room called "crf." (Click on "People Connection," click on "Private Room," type in "crf.") There is also an on-line mailing list (a listserv) for owners of cats with chronic renal failure. To subscribe go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Feline-CRF-Support/. Please do not hesitate to ask your veterinarian if you have any questions or problems regarding your pet's condition. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

Betta Fish Care

A Betta fish is a beautiful freshwater fish that comes in extraordinary color patterns. It is one of the most inexpensive fish to keep and doesn't need much care at all. You will have a healthy fish if you follow these simple care requirements.

The Betta fish is one of the most well known aquarium fish. It comes in many colors including red, blue, purple, green and white. The males have much brighter colors than females and also have longer fins. Bettas are originally from Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, parts of China and Vietnam. They are usually found in very shallow waters, such as rice paddies and shallow ponds. Bettas can live to be two or three years old.

Bettas may look like regular fish, but they are actually very different. Unlike most fish, the Betta breathes air by going up to the surface of the water. This makes them very easy to keep because it is not necessary to have any airpump, filtration, or aeration at all in their tank. They do well in small bowls; you won't have to buy a large, expensive aquarium for this fish.

You must be sure not to keep two male Bettas in a tank together because they will fight to the death. Females can be kept together though. Many people think that Bettas cannot be kept with any other fish but this is not true. Male Bettas and female Bettas can be kept with other peaceful fish species. Just don't put them in with any aggressive fish that may nip their fins.

Bettas must be fed once a day. Be sure you don't overfeed this fish. Don't leave any uneaten food in the bowl. They can be fed freeze dried brine shrimp or freeze dried blood worms. They don't usually like freeze dried worm cubes or flake food though. There are many foods sold at pet stores specifically for Bettas. Any of these will do.

Be sure to clean your fish bowl once a week if you don't have a filter on it. For the water in the tank, start with tap water and add a product that removes chlorine. Follow the directions on the package. Also add one teaspoon of aquarium salt. Make sure any water you add to the bowl is the same temperature as the water in the bowl.

Keep a lid on the bowl because the Betta can jump out if you don't have one on. Just make sure that there are holes in the lid so the fish can get air. It is also good to have a live plant in the fish bowl. Bettas love to rest on plant leaves. They even have a plant called "Betta Bulbs" that you can use. If you put a plant in the bowl, you will need to have gravel. Gravel gets dirty easily so you must be sure to clean it regularly. If the tank gets dirty, your Betta will get sick.

The Betta is a tropical fish, so keep the bowl in a warm spot. They like to be in temperatures around 75 to 80 degrees. Just don't put the bowl in direct sun or in a drafty spot.

If you follow these simple requirements for this fish, it will be healthy and happy. Bettas are absolutely striking fish to watch. You will surely enjoy this fish!

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Aquariums Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

Pets - Safety Tips at Holiday Time

The holiday season has arrived. Thanksgiving has just passed and before you know it ... or usually are ready for it ... you'll be waking up to Christmas morning. Boy, doesn't the year fly by? Along with all the joy the holidays bring, they can also present some particular hazards to the health of your pet -- and consequently, to your peace of mind. Here are some ideas that can help prevent problems so that your holiday is a happy one for all.

First, it's a good idea of know your vet's holiday hours. Keep emergency phone numbers and any special holiday requirements where they will be easily accessible.

Give some thought about how you'll use plants to decorate. Birds, cats and dogs will all nibble on household plants -- and many of them are toxic or poisonous, including mistletoe and poinsettias. They can make your pet very ill so be sure to keep them out of your pet's reach.

If your celebration includes having a Christmas tree you should use some caution in placing the decorations on it. Only use unbreakable decorations at the bottom of your tree so there isn't any danger of your cat batting a glass ball and breaking it, or the pup chewing your grandmother's antique bubble lights. As for birds -- they should not have any access to the tree, decorations, plants and such. For those of us who live with pet birds, we know what mischief they can get into very quickly ... not to mention how destructive they can be. So keep your birds confined, or watch them like a hawk (so to speak) when they are out of their cage. Better to be safe than sorry.

As far as the less exotic pets go ... that is, cats and dogs ... how about putting some kitty baubles or doggie toys on the lower branches of the tree instead of your fragile and valuable decorations. That way, if those pets are attracted to the tree they'll find something appropriate for them. Or, here is another suggestion that has proved successful for protecting both pets and little ones. Put the Christmas tree and gifts into a playpen. That may not stop kitty, but at least the tree can't fall down as easily when she decides to climb it. Granted, it might be a little strange to see the holiday tree and gifts in a playpen, but it might be just the ticket for your situation.

Since we are on the subject of the Christmas tree, here is another safety hint. If you have a live tree placed in water wrap the base so your pets can't drink the water. Many modern live trees have been sprayed with chemicals that may be toxic to your little friends.

Be very, very careful with candles. Your bird or cat may be enticed by the flicker of the flame. Singed whiskers or feathers would certainly put a damper on holiday cheer, not to mention the horror your pet would suffer from a serious burn. Place glass "hurricane lanterns" or other attractive covers over candles to protect your home and your pets.

Give some thought to New Years Eve. Pets are usually frightened by the traditional firecrackers and other noisy merriment and it's best to have a plan to keep them from becoming frightened by the noise. Some dogs may be severely traumatized by fireworks so be sure to leave them inside if you go out to celebrate.

Pets, especially birds and cats, may be stressed by the changes in household routine during the holidays, especially if you are stressed yourself. Some cats and dogs respond to stress by becoming hyper or hysterical, and some simply retreat. Plan to spend some special time with your pets to calm yourself and reassure them during this period. If your pet is especially upset with strangers visiting, prepare a refuge where he can go to escape the "maddening crowd."

And last of all, we wish you and your family a wonderful and safe holiday.

Permission granted to reprint full article "as is" with author credit as given below and a link back to "http://www.birdwatchin.com. There are no private label resale rights available and the article cannot be modified or your name assigned to it.

Shari Carpenter is the owner of http://www.birdwatchin.com, a one-stop resource for people that love birdwatching, bird feeding and pet birds. http://www.birdwatchin.com covers a wide range of information, products and supplies, including the blog "Birdwatchin' Buzz Today!" It is also the place to subscribe to "David's Wild Bird Club" Newsletter.