Dealing With your Pets' Allergies

It is Winter time again, a time of the year when pets and humans are very vulnerable to each other. As this is obviously the chilliest time of the year, animals are much more likely to be cooped up inside the house with us. All of the windows and doors are closed to the world and the heat is blasting around the clock.

These are precisely the conditions which make our winter homes playgrounds for some kinds of allergens. Our dogs and cats are considerably vulnerable to the dust in the carpet, the mold inside the walls of your old house and other pets. But warm moist times of the year are high allergy times as well. Allergies are simply the most common conditions affecting cats and according to the Kansas State University, 15% of dogs suffer from common allergies like pollen and house dust. An allergic reaction is the work of an overactive immune system. It is when an animal responds abnormally to a seemingly everyday substance like grass or general food ingredients.

Of the different kinds of allergies, contact allergies are the least common in cats and dogs. An Example of a contact allergen is a flea collar. Grass and various kinds of bedding such as wool are also examples. An Inhalant Allergy is the most common allergy for cats and is also prevalent in dogs. This particular kind of allergy is caused by the hypersensitivity of the immune system to environmental substances. A Flea Allergy is the single most common dog allergy but is also common cats. The normal dog or cat suffers only somewhat minor irritation in lieu of a flea bite with minimal itching.

A food allergy is also somehat common in pets. Cats often become allergic to their most common protein such as tuna. Dogs can be allergic to proteins like chicken and beef. When it comes to allergies, like most things it's a matter of controlling, not curing. Once an animal's body becomes hypersensitive to certain things, it is then eternally vulnerable to those things.

Regarding treatment of allergies, the most common treatments are topical products like shampoos or antihistamines. There are also certain supplements that you can give to your pets to help support

the insides of their bodies, which to an extent determine the condition of the outside. Studies have shown that if we shampoo our pets' coats on a regularl basis, it is much less likely that foreign substances will enter through the skin. Regular bathing discourages allergens -- irritants such as dander and dead hair. When our pets itch and injure their skin, it leaves their internal landscapes much more vulnerable to skin problems For additional Information visit

Dog Supplements from Life's Abundance for help with your dog

Ryan Joseph is a writer/researcher of pet issues. For more info. visit http://www.premium-cat-food.com/

What's All The Buzz About Underground Dog Fences?

The new craze on the puppy circuit is underground dog fences. Simply put, underground fences are electronic containment systems designed to teach pets their boundaries while in your yard. They use a small "shock" which is transmitted through an electronic collar. These hidden fences can actually contain your dog within the barrier without forking out the expenses of putting up a fence. While most dogs don't like being kenneled up for long periods of time while you are working or the kids are at school, this gives them the option of roaming the front and back yard and letting them have a sense of freedom, but only where the invisible fence will allow them. The advantage of having an underground dog fence is that you won't have to resort to ropes, chains and cages, which some people consider inhumane and unhealthy for your dog. While wire fences are expensive, can be dug under or jumped over and allow for little exercise, they can also distract from the beauty of landscapes and in most cases decrease the property value of your home. Underground fences are reasonably priced and invisible, meaning that nobody will even know it's there except you and your dog! Here's how it works. When a dog approaches the fenced area, he'll receive a warning tone. Then, if after two seconds he hasn't retreated back, the tone will the be followed by a mild electrical jolt, transmitted through a device connected to his collar. The jolt will be harmless and painless to your pet and matched to his specific temperament. If he still chooses to not retreat back, the electrical jolt then sets itself to the highest level to prevent the dog from running through it. Although the underground dog fence is safe for all dogs, it is recommended that you wait until your puppy is between the ages of 16 and 20 weeks before trying to train him with the system. Easily installed, underground dog fences will give your dog freedoms that he may not otherwise have. While dogs tend to be nosey, trying to cross the street, going into the neighbor's yard, digging in your flower garden or chasing those passing by, the underground system will quickly teach him where he is and isn't allowed to go. Check with your local pet supply stores for information on underground dog fences and pricing. Just as you need freedom and exercise, so does your dog. Remember, he is part of your family and it is your job, as his owner and caretaker, to be sure he is safe and healthy. With an underground dog fence you can give him that safety and independence that dogs love so much. You might even get a warm smile and thank you from the mailman!!

Prevention and Detection of Dog Ear Infections

Ear infections are a fairly common ailment for most dogs -- the problem is, you might not realize that there is a problem until its a painful problem for your dog.

Detection

Do you see your dog shaking it's head a little too often? Does your dog rub it's ears with it's paws, on the carpet, on the furniture, on your leg? Does your dog love it a little too much when you scratch it ears? These are all possible signs of an ear infection.

Did your dog used to love getting it's ears scratched but now shies away from you when you reach for it's ears? That's a sure sign of an ear infection.

Here are two other signs of this particular trouble: You see what looks like dirt in your dogs ears and wonder what its been up to. Your dog has an unusually bad smell -- even shortly after a bath.

That probably isn't dirt in the dogs ears (unless its been messing around in some very dirty places) -- its probably a build-up of ear wax and, if it is ear wax, that's probably also the cause for the mysterious odor.

An excess of smelly ear wax would, in most cases, be caused by inflamed (infected) ceruminous glands (wax glands) in it's ears. When these glands get infected they discharge extra amounts of ear wax. The excess ear wax causes the dogs ears to itch at first, that's why the rubbing and the blissful look when you scratch it's ears. After a while, if you don't spot the problem and get the dog to a vet, the wax buildup will become painful and the dog won't want you to touch its ears and the dog will become listless and probably not want to do anything except lay around -- waiting for the pain to go away.

The scenario described above is a typical outer ear infection and outer ear infections are by far the most common dog ear infections. The medical name is Otits Externa -- simply meaning “infection in the outer ear.” Just to complicate matters, you should know that dogs with ear infections often wind up with another problem -- ear mites.

Prevention

Your dog needs you to protect it from the pain of an ear infection and here's how you can do it: don't wait for the signs of an ear infection, check your dog's ears at least once a week.

-Feel the skin on the inside (least haired side) of each ear. The skin should feel perfectly smooth -- if this skin feels rough or grainy you might already have an ear infection problem on your hands.

-Look into the ear -- you should see a normal (not red or swollen) looking ear canal. Worst case: you'll see some type of yellow or dark discharge or possibly pus draining from the ear.

-Smell the ear -- you should not smell anything unpleasant.

-If you see any signs of an ear infection, get your dog to a veterinarian.

-If you see a bit of wax or dirt in the ear but it doesn't seem to be bothering the dog, clean it's ears. Even if the ear looks clean and clear, and you haven't cleaned the dog's ears for a week or so, clean the ears.

Cleaning Your Dog's Ears

If you are not already cleaning your dogs ears on a regular basis, it may try to get away from you because it's not sure what you are doing and afraid that whatever it is will hurt. Calm the dog down by petting it and talking gently to it -- your tone of voice is always the key to your dog's reactions. Once you've started cleaning it's ears on a regular basis the do will get used to it and even appreciate the extra attention.

-Get an ear wash solution made specially for pets. Get it from a pet supply store or from your vet.

-Apply some ear wash solution to the inside of the dogs ears with a cotton ball or cotton-tipped swab. (Careful! Don't have the cotton ball or swab dripping wet -- you don't want to get anything down in the ear canal.)

About now, your dog will want to shake it's head to get the excess moisture out of it's ears -- it's OK -- let him or her shake it out.

-Take a fresh cotton tab with more of the ear-wash solution on it and clean the inside of the ear, around the folds and places where ear wax might build up.

Don't get into cleaning deep down into the ear canal -- that's for a veterinarian to do. If you see any build-up of ear wax deep down, let your vet take care of it.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

Thoughts on using shock collars to train your dog.

A shock collar is a small box on a dog collar that usually has two metal prongs that are in contact with a dogs skin. The device works by usually emitting a warning noise followed by an electric shock to the dog. On some models the shock can be increased in intensity. These collars are designed to shape behavior, for example they can be set to go off when a dog barks. Alternatively the handler can carry a remote control unit that delivers a shock when the dog does undesirable behavior. There really is no need to use such methods to train a dog, there are more humane methods to shape a dogs behavior such as clicker training that gives a reward for shaping behavior. The reasons why I believe shock collars are not necessary for training are as follows: * A dogs skin is much thinner than a humans skin. As a result the shocks these devices give can be very painful. Additionally if a dog becomes wet the pain inflicted can increase. * Shocking a dog can lead to behavior problems where the association of the shock with people or circumstances can lead to potentially aggressive behavior. * Sadly there are people that will use these devices irresponsibly or worse for fun on their pets. For many years I have used treats and praise for training my dogs. I believe in using kind training methods and rewarding dogs for good behavior. Dogs love to be rewarded be it with praise, treats, toys and exercise. In my experience a dog that is trained using positive training methods is well behaved, good tempered and happy. Joyce Barker - www.dogtraininginfo.co.uk

The Noble Great Dane

Wild boars used to roam in the wilds of Europe many centuries ago. In those days the titled land-owners cherished the large dog known as the "Boar Hound" which had the courage, the agility, the speed and the strength to hunt these beasts and bring them down. It is believed that the magnificent dog that we know of today as the Great Dane is descended from the original "Boar Hound". One can readily see that the Great Dane would have the ability to perform this task admirably. They have the length of leg for the speed, the chest and lungs for the endurance and great strength of jaw.

It is a mystery why this dog is called the Great Dane since there is no actual tie in history that relegates this dog to the country of Denmark as its origin. It was known early as the "Deutchse Dogge" in Germany and is believed to have been developed in that country. They were prized by the land-owners not only for their abilities as a dog for the hunt, but their beauty and passive tranquility as dogs which could reside in the manor and be a part of the household. They are indeed quite nicely attuned to being a dog that lies quietly in front of the fireplace, while at the same time being a fearless and active hunting dog of great stamina and power. They also do well at the job of guard dog while at the same time being a gentle family pet, allowing children to climb on them and tug on them without a hint of aggression. For the most part, the Great Dane is quite happy to just lie around the household and sleep. Owners need to be aware that to keep this giant dog in good health, they should give it plenty of exercise, it will not choose to do so on its own!

Great Danes, like most of the giant breeds, take a long time to mature, and the puppy years last at least until the dog is a two year old. Puppies of course can be more rambunctious than adults so there is a period of time when the youngster can do good deal of damage to the household in the absence of supervision. Early training is a must since by the time they are six months old they could weigh nearly 60 pounds and be quite a handful if not taught basic manners in the house. Their excessive height allows them to check out counter tops nicely by the age of six months.

Danes come in nearly every color, even Harlequin (white with black spots). The most beautiful of the Danes are perhaps the Blues, which can range from a light gray to a steel-blue coloring. However, Dane lovers will profess that they all are a delight to own, regardless of color. The head of the Great Dane appears quite regal in nature, the jowls should not be loose and there should be no hint of drooling. The jaw is rather square in appearance and the muzzle should be as long as the backskull. The look of the dog should be clean and when moving he should balance well and be "light on the feet". A good Dane will move with such grace that one could not imagine that in reality he weighs more than 140 pounds! A male Dane should be 32 inches at the shoulder and a female 30 inches. Less than 28 inches is a disqualification in the A.K.C. show ring.

Probably the most important aspect of the Great Dane should be the temperament, which must be one of dependability and never aggressive. Aggression in such a large breed could have disastrous consequences and breeders of today should be commended that they have made a great effort to maintain the gentle nature of this dog.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Foxtails

[Editor's Note: This article is a result of an interview regarding foxtails with veterinarian Doctor Linda Amezcua of the Linda Mar Veterinary Clinic in Pacifica, California. As with all medically related articles, the reader needs to know some of the conditions covered are very complex and discussed with specific medical terminology. Yet our newsletter must present information briefly and simply. Thus, because we simplify and abbreviate the actual interviews, it will always be wise to check with your own vet prior to following any advice that may be offered. Further, Dr. Amezcua recommends that you consider the following when dealing with foxtails: "Don't ignore the symptoms: always assume the foxtail is in the dog unless proven otherwise, and get your dog to a vet to have it removed!"] The foxtail in its "green condition" is a native plant in Western areas of the United States. This plant populates the area by drying and breaking apart into tiny burrowing duplicates. The "seedlings" are physically built to burrow. While some animals do not have difficulty with the plant (horses can eat them with no side effects), and people seem to be able to remove them easily, dogs appear to have the most severe reactions to them. The outsides of the "seedlings" contain a bacterium with enzymes used to break down vegetation. This bacterium also allows the seedling to burrow into a dog along the tunnels of pus created by the enzyme. In fact, Dr. Amezcua informed us: pus and foxtails go hand in hand. A foxtail can literally go anywhere in the dog. For example, they have been found inside the brain, anal glands, eyes, ears, jowls, feet, spinal cord, lungs, and vagina. We will focus on the symptoms, first aid treatment, and veterinary treatment for foxtails in the more common areas of the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, feet, vagina, and a general wound. Ears: The symptoms are clear: a head tilt or head shaking is the immediate response of a dog that has a foxtail in its ear. Later, the symptoms look like an ear infection. The larger the dog, the less noticeable the symptoms so monitor your dog carefully. Vizslas, due to their height and hanging ears, are less likely to get foxtails during normal every day activity than shorter and/or pricked-ear dogs. However, our dogs can and do get foxtails in their ears. First aid response is to put drops of oil into the affected ear to soften the foxtail. This softening helps prevent the foxtail from moving forward and may allow the dog to shake it out. Unless you see the foxtail shaken out, do not assume it has been removed. Take the dog to a vet for removal of the foxtail. The vet will most likely conduct an otoscopic exam and a simple retrieval. Eyes: Symptoms for foxtails in the eyes are a gummy discharge and a squint, or an eye glued shut. In parts of California, for example, if an eye is glued shut, it is generally considered a foxtail and treated as such. First aid response is to calm the dog. If the foxtail is in sight and you can control your dog, use a blunt tweezer to pull out the foxtail. Foxtails cannot be flushed from the eye with water or eye-wash, nor can they be removed by applying ointment. Get your dog to the vet. Once at the vet, the dog will usually need to be placed under a general anesthesia, especially if your dog cannot remain calm while being handled. After a topical ointment is applied, the vet will remove the foxtail. A calm dog can have a foxtail removed from its eye without the anesthesia, but most cannot. Nose: For a foxtail in the nose, the obvious symptoms are spasmodic and serial sneezing. If blood comes from the nose as a consequence of sneezing, you are almost assured it is a foxtail. First aid treatment is to drop (not squirt) some oil into the nose. Mineral oil is best but baby or vegetable oil can be used. The oil will soften the foxtail, so hopefully, it will not continue to burrow. The oil is for the dog's comfort as well as to help stop the foxtail from poking the sensitive nasal passages. But again, get your dog to a vet quickly. Once at the vet, the dog will be anesthetized, its nose scoped, and the foxtail found and removed. Mouth: Dogs can get foxtails in their mouth. The symptoms of a foxtail stuck in the gums or back of the throat include gagging, difficulty swallowing when eating, etc. If swallowed, foxtails can be passed. However, if it gets caught in periodontal pockets, the tongue, in between teeth or in the back of the throat, it can cause problems. You can tell if this has occurred, not only from the above symptoms, but also because the dog may have a "dead body" odor coming from the mouth. The vet will anesthetize the dog, then locate and remove the foxtail. Interdigital: Symptoms are continuous licking of the foot or pad, or the appearance of a bubbly swelling between the toes. First check the dog. If you think there is a foxtail, you can soak the foot in warm water 10 to 15 minutes one or two times a day for three days. This will assist in the creation of an abscess in the area that will eventually burst. Once it bursts, you can remove the foxtail by milking the abscess and backing out the foxtail. Once the foxtail is removed, keep soaking the foot, but now add an antiseptic (like betadine) to the water (about one tablespoon per cup of water). What should be clear by now is that for foxtails, "pus marks the spot," so always look for a bubble of pus on the foot. Sometimes the bubble shows up and disappears, then shows up somewhere else on the dog's leg. >From our experience this indicates a roving foxtail and the best bet is to get your dog to the vet. Vagina: This area is hard to spot symptoms at for they are not as obvious as in other areas. Look for a swollen area in the groin and constant licking of the vaginal area. There is no first aid treatment. Take the dog to a vet immediately. Any foxtail that enters a dog through the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, feet, or vagina ,if ignored, has the potential to travel (burrowing along the tunnels of pus created by the seedling's bacteria) anywhere in the dog's body. Don't ignore any of the outermost symptoms, as internal symptoms are usually not visible. Severe injury and even death can occur if the foxtail reaches the dog's brain, spinal cord, heart or lungs. Wounds: At one field trail I was at, a dog had cut itself severely on barbed wire. The cut was a long one and nearly ran the length of the dog's leg. As the dog and owner came in from the field, one could see not only the blood but could also tell the dog had debris in the wound. The owner did not understand the dangers of foxtails and did not have a first aid kit to assist the dog. Kay Ingle, who was standing next to me, instantly grabbed sterile water and tweezers from her first aid kit and started carefully pulling and washing out foxtails from the wound. After doing what she could, she instructed the owner to leave the trial and get the dog to the local vet, which he did. In Dr. Amezcua's 14 years of experience in the greater San Francisco and Peninsula area, less that one percent of the dogs that had foxtails have died; in her case only two dogs. In both cases, the dogs died due to the foxtail getting into the lungs. Unfortunately, there are no symptoms to recognize when the foxtail is in the lungs. The lungs can fill with pus and lead to to death. Although generally foxtails do not lead to death, they can cause severe injury. After any event in areas with foxtails, it is wise to carefully inspect your dog. It is also wise to immediately treat any dog that shows the above symptoms and get it to a vet. You might also want to add blunt tweezers, mineral oil, and an eye dropper to your growing first aid kit for field trial dogs. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

Bird Flu, your Cat, and You

Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza, caused by the H5N1 virus,(commonly called bird flu) has been detected in cats and other felidae (e.g. leopards and tigers) from time to time since the start of the present poultry avian influenza epidemic in 2003.
In 2004 researchers showed that cats can be infected with H5N1 virus and that the virus could not only cause severe disease (and death) in cats, but also that cats could transmit the virus to other cats.

On present evidence however, it is highly unlikely that cats play any major role in the natural transmission of H5N1 viruses. In other words, although susceptible to the virus, they are "accidental" hosts.
However, because cats can be susceptible to the H5N1 virus, it does mean that there is the potential for domestic cats to contract the disease and then to pass it on to other cats, other species, and perhaps humans.

How might cats become infected with the H5N1 virus? There are 2 main scenarios.
a) Eat infected poultry meat - hence the association between infected cats and outbreaks of bird flu in poultry.
b)Many migratory waterfowl are carriers of the H5N1 virus. These are unlikely to come into close contact with cats, but they intermingle with other bird types that might well come into close contact with cats.

Cats are not the only mammals that can be infected with the H5N1 influenza virus. Tigers, Leopards, Civets, dogs and pigs are all recorded as having been infected and there is little reason to suggest that other mammals could not be infected by the virus.

While this information is slightly unsettling, it needs to be put in context. Mammals (including humans) need to be exposed to massive amounts of virus to become infected. This is supported by the fact that most human deaths from H5N1 have occurred where those people have had prolonged exposure to poultry circulating the H5N1 virus.

In addition, infected mammals shed very small amounts of virus, thus further reducing the potential for transmitting the virus from mammal to mammal (e.g. from cat to human).
A few other things worth mentioning.
1) The H5N1 virus is quickly killed at 70C. Thus normal cooking of chicken meat will kill the virus.
2) Commercial poultry routinely slaughtered at an approved slaughter plant does not represent a health hazard. This means that 99.9% of dressed poultry available in all first world economies (and many developing economies) is perfectly safe to eat. Not eating chicken "because of bird flu" is a nonsensical, uninformed reaction.
3) Not every cat that develops the sniffles now has bird flu! However, if you are in an area that has had an H5N1 outbreak in poultry, then a sick cat should ring some alarm bells.
4) Practice normal good hygiene - wash your hands with soap and water after handling animals or cleaning out litter trays etc.
So while cats can become infected with the bird flu virus, the chances of them transmitting it to other animals or humans at the moment is very slim indeed. Unfortunately, Influenza viruses are constantly changing through mechanisms known as antigenic shift and antigenic drift, which means that what is true today may change in six months time.

Watch this space!

Keith Perrett is a qualified Veterinarian
http://www.pet-health-for-humans.com/bird-flu.html