Is your Pet Rat Cool?

If the environment is too hot, Rats can't naturally cool themselves off. Rats cannot sweat like humans and they cannot pant like dogs. Therefore Rats are very sensitive to heat and humidity.

Rats are pretty comfortable in the upper 60's and lower 70's; many experience distress around 80-90'F and can die if left uncared for in this condition or if the temperature rises towards 100. Tailless rats and mice like it a tad cooler: 75-85 can be distressing with temperatures rising in the 90's being deadly.

If your rat is hot, or has developed heatstroke (hyperthermia) it may display some of the symptoms:
- Labored breathing
- Very lethargic and slow moving
- If you coax them to move they may stagger as if drunk
- Drooling - (an attempt to cool off by having the drool evaporate just as water or sweat would cool you off).
- Tail, feet, ears and nose hot to touch
- Lie on their sides with their feet in the air and their tail stretched out.(As blood in their system travels to these unfurred parts of their body, it gets cooled off.) This means they are really really hot.

Note: older rats, overweight or ill rats are particularly sensitive to the heat.

Here's some tips to help your rattie beat the summer heat.

If your pet is used to water, you may want to submerge them up to their neck in some cool (not freezing cold) water. If you think your pet may be more stressed out by being in water then...

Frozen chunks of fruits and/or veggies will keep your ratties cool from the inside out. If they are not pre-bagged frozen, and you are buying fresh to freeze, be sure to wash the produce before chopping and bagging and freezing....pesticide residues are bad news for ratties.

Ice in a dish. Quick, simple, yet oh so satisfying. I have seen a hot rattie lick ice with great relish and seem much more comfortable afterwards, probably because the blood flowing through the tissues of the rattie's mouth is cooled by the ice, and as the cooled blood circulates through the rest of the body, it reduces overall body temperature. The cold water that is swallowed in the process has a similar effect, and additionally helps prevent dehydration.

Peas in a pie pan. Frozen peas with cool water. Your rattie may or may not be willing to wade in for the refreshments, but the possibility is good, and this can provide quick relief. Make sure to supervise adequately. This one can be messy; best done on a tile floor, not in the cage. The bathtub would be even better.

Icewater in the water bottle. Same principal as the ice. Of course, ice won't fit into most water bottle openings unless it's crushed. A handy thing to do is simply have two water bottles and have one in the fridge cooling while the other is in use, and switch the two every couple of hours.

Bottle full of ice. Save your old juice, pop, and water bottles--whatever size fits the number of ratties and the size of the cage. Wash thoroughly. Fill 3/4 full with water. Freeze thoroughly. When the mercury soars, put a frozen bottle in with the ratties...they will sleep on or near it, and it will also lower the ambient temperature in the cage somewhat. It's best to have two bottles per cage so you can switch off. Also, realize they may chew a hole in the bottle and soak the cage.....sometimes glass is best, but it can crack in the freezer.

Spray Bottle - get a clean spray bottle-make sure it has no chemical residues. Put clean water in it. Refrigerate it. Periodically spray the rats down with it, as often as they seem to need it. This will not work well without adequate air circulation--a fan can help with this. Just make sure you don't soak the ratties and blast the fan on them--that's too stressful. Set the spray bottle to deliver a gentle mist, and set the fan so that it will move the air around the rattie.

Follow these tips to help your little buddy keep cool this hot summer.

Diana Davidson is author of a new neat book on pet rat care which is a great resource that contains information you wouldn’t find at your local library. For lots more pet rat care information, tips, quirky and interesting facts, and answers to your questions visit Diana’s site at http://www.rattiesecrets.com.

A Barking Dog is a Pain!

How do you get your dog to stop barking? After all, who likes a constantly barking dog? The only time I want a dog barking is when people drive up or to keep coyotes away. But when I tell her to stop, I want my dog to stop. So how do you go about obtaining this wonderful silence? We all know it's better to train anyone and anything when they are young. So start with your puppy training it to end up with a dog that only barks when you want. That last sentence is the key. You need to decide how much barking you do want and then train your puppy to achieve that goal. As we have stated elsewhere, you must decide what the rules are for your family and work during your puppy training toward that end. And situations differ with regards to a barking dog. A person living in the city in an apartment does not want a dog that constantly barks. This is irritating to you and your neighbors. On the other hand, I live in the country with livestock. The purpose of my dog outside is to let me know someone has driven up and to keep the coyotes away. She needs to let them know she is here and on duty. Barking is how she warns the coyotes. I have seen her take on a bear standing her ground between it and the livestock, barking until the bear left. I want my dog barking. So again this goes back to your lifestyle, the way you and your family live and where you live. Consider your purpose in having your dog. Do you want your dog to announce visitors? Do you want your dog to be Lassie and warn of danger to the children? Is your dog a guardian that you take along when you jog? What should your dog be barking at? Do you want your dog barking upon your arrival at home to greet you? Now that you have decided how much barking you want your dog to do and when, you just take steps in your puppy training to achieve this. The best way to get your dog or puppy to bark when you want is, during puppy training, teaching him to stop when you want. This is how you clue him in to the proper times to bark. You want your puppy or dog barking only when you want. copyright 2005. Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Antibiotics? I Think Not

Have you noticed that doctors are now being much more reluctant to give you a prescription for antibiotics unless it's proven that you are indeed suffering from a bacterial infection? Well, I wish I could say better late than never, but in the case of antibiotics, we're far too late.

Antibiotics were once touted as a modern miracle and they did indeed save lives, once upon a time. The problem has been that they have been so widely overused and not just for bacterial infections, but for every single thing doctors didn't know how to treat. In fact, even if the illness was viral, we were routinely given a prescription for antibiotics so we would happily go home and feel as though the doctor helped us get well.

The truth is, we would've been far better off NOT getting those antibiotics for every single illness we encountered. Our immune systems would've been much more helped if we'd stayed home and rested, drank lots of fluids, and boosted our immune system with natural herbal and homeopathic remedies and whole food supplements.

The reason is, since antibiotics have been so widely overused, superbugs have emerged that are leaving us vulnerable with no recourse - UNLESS your immune system is strong because you and your pets have been eating natural diets, using whole food and natural supplements, and exercising, so that your body is protected naturally.

By relying so heavily upon antibiotics to be our cure-all, along with steroids (a subsequent article will elaborate on this horrible drug) we've compromised our and our pets immune systems and left them wide open and susceptible to these superbugs that are continuing to emerge all the time.

"Our society has been conditioned with quick-fix and band-aid medicine. We know from experience that this, often times, only gives temporary relief and in fact can generate a rebound effect of symptoms or undesirable side effects. Complimentary medicine, in particular Homeopathy and Herbs, can play a very large part in the successful rearing of our animals. Homeopathy and Herbs are essentially, natural healing processes, providing remedies to assist the patient to regain health by stimulating the body's natural forces of recovery. They concentrate on treating the patient, rather than the disease." Marina Zacharias, author of Healthy Breeding with Herbs and Homeopathy. http://www.naturalrearing.com

The good news is there are alternatives we can use that will give us healthy, strong pets that can resist these superbugs. First, by using a homeopathic or holistic veterinarian, you can talk to them about what your options are for helping keep your pet at their optimal health. Each animal is as different as each of us. If you care for your pets in a holistic way, meaning for the entire animal rather than waiting to treat a specific ailment, you will already be ahead of the game.

By feeding food natural to your pet's species, such as a raw food diet for cats and dogs, and incorporating whole food supplements, prebiotics and probiotics, you won't need to concern yourselves about antibiotics and their detrimental side effects.

Something that is also happening is not just superbugs that can be transmitted from animals to humans, but one I know of that can only be transmitted from HUMANS to ANIMALS, and this superbug is called MRSA. While it isn't as evident in the USA, it is rapidly becoming a problem in the UK. It is a superbug, bacterial infection that has developed as a result of overusing antibiotics. I have a dear new friend who lost her companion and friend, Bella, a beautiful Samoyed dog, to this dreaded bacteria. http://thebellamossfoundation.com

Jesse Dallas, author of Are Antibiotics Making Your Pet Sick? writes "The body should have 80% friendly bacteria and about 20% bad bacteria inside the intestinal tract. After the use of antibiotics, the body will have no more than 20% friendly bacteria and 80% bad bacteria if not more.

-Most illness, disease and problems begin in the intestinal tract. Thus, antibiotics create the potential for serious illness to begin.

-You may not be giving your pet antibiotics, but if it has ever eaten foods with preservatives, you have been giving your pet what I call 'hidden antibiotics'. The job of preservatives is to control bacteria and once your pet eats food with preservatives, it will ultimately have an effect inside the intestinal tract too and kill the friendly bacteria.

-You should expect it will take at the least 1 year to recolonize the intestinal tract with friendly bacteria after the use of antibiotics.

-Recolonize the intestinal tract with friendly bacteria by using supplements and feeding natural foods." http://www.pet-grub.com

Now is the time to be proactive and change this. By not remaining apathetic, but by taking action in your life and the lives of your pets, we can and will make a difference.

One more thing that is giving us much hope and one that has me jumping for joy are therapeutic grade essential oils. In 1985 Dr. Jean Claude Lapraz, MD did a study using the therapeutic grade essential oils Oregano and Cinnamon in testing their "antibiotic" like qualities. What he found was that not one single bacteria or virus can live in the presence of these oils!

That is the direction I've taken for myself, family and pets and I hope you'll consider doing the same.

Originally published for the Holistic Pet Care topic on Suite101.com

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

About the Author:

Kim Bloomer is a natural pet care educator helping pet owners learn to care for their pets through natural, holistic means.Disease prevention is her goal to help pet owners lower their pet care costs and extend the lives of their pets. Visit her website Aspenbloom Pet Care & Supply and her dog's blogs barkin' about natural pet care from a canine perspective Bark 'N' Blog and A Dog's View
Look for Kim's dog Shadrach's new line of beautiful, custom made, hand-tooled leather collars, leashes and journals for large breed dogs and essential oils on her website.

Is A Premium Dog Food Really That Much Better For Your Dog?

==========The Scoop on Premium Dog Food========

If you're interested in premium dog food, then I probably don't have to tell you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy. You already know you want something better than "average" for your furry friend.

But how much do you really know about what's in a premium food and what your particular pet's needs are? I'm no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years, I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health -- and particularly on human teeth!!).

Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you, he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure , you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I hope!), but otherwise he's eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out. You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.

===========Complete Nutrition?===============

Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There's one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you'll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.

Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won't need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you'd end up saving money on the premium formulas. That's because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You'll save on pooper scoopers too!)

Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level? This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you'll know when your dog isn't feeling up to par.

Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet, and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you'll know if your friend is doing well on the diet you're feeding him. If you see signs that he isn't, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.

Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And while we're on that subject, it's always nice if your dog enjoys eating his food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make sure he eats with gusto, and doesn't just pick at his food. Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:

============Essential Nutrients=============

Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:

Protein --23% of total intake
Fats --5% of total intake
Carbohydrates --65% of total intake

Additional vitamins and minerals your dog needs are: Vitamins A, D, E, B-complex, Niacin, Biotin, Folic Acid, Choline, and Pantothenic Acid; Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.

It's generally agreed that dogs do better on a protein source that's primarily meat rather than soybeans and grains. Check the label. All US food labels must list ingredients in order of their quantity. If meat by-products are listed, they should come after the real meat, not before it. Meat by products are an inferior source of protein, and are basically what remains after the good quality meat has been removed. "Crude protein" can be a similarly poor source, since it may include parts of the animal that can't even be digested or absorbed by the average dog (hair, beaks, etc.).

Omega fatty acids are a hot topic in human nutrition these days, and have been found to be just as important in the canine diet. Both should be present, and in the right ratio. Most premium dog food companies have done the research on this and adjusted the ratios, but as usual, ask your vet if your uncertain.

===========Wet vs. Dry============

You can buy premium dog food in just about any form, but which one is best? Again, most experts seem to agree. Dry food is less likely to allow plaque to accumulate on the teeth, less likely to harbor bacteria if left out too long, and results in firmer, more compact stools. Semi-moist foods are convenient but for some reason (I'm not sure what) don't offer the same nutritional benefits as premium kibble or canned foods.

That said, I have also heard arguments suggesting that a diet of exclusively dry food can be a strain on a dog's kidneys. So, to be on the safe side, check with your vet.

===========Life Stages============

Puppies need more calories and essential nutrients than adult dogs. They need up to twice as many calories per ounce of body weight and should get 25% to 30% of their energy from protein depending on the breed.

Most premium dog food brands take this into account in their puppy formulas, but it doesn't hurt to check the label. By six to eight weeks of age a puppy should be fully weaned and eating his dry food consistently. After that, different breeds reach their mature weight at different rates, by anywhere from 9 months to 24 months old. So it's hard to give an age or weight by which you should take your pet off puppy food. Again, your vet can help out here.

Also, remember not to try to "rush" the growing process by overfeeding. If she grows too fast, a dog can develop bone growth diseases. A puppy should get three to four meals a day because he's growing fast but still has a small tummy, but don't overdo it with portions size.

Adult dogs need to eat according to their size and energy requirements and should be fed two meals a day. This is frequently referred to by the premium dog food companies as a "maintenance diet".

Unlike cats, dogs are not strictly meat eaters. In fact, a dog is more like an omnivore and will eat just about anything, whether it's good for him or not! A certain amount of vegetable matter is part of a dog's natural diet. Dogs love vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, zucchini, peas, and beans, and fruits such as bananas, apples, and melon. These make great low-calorie treats, too!

One thing you should never feed your dog is chocolate--it contains a chemical called theobromine which is toxic to dogs.

Senior dogs need a premium dog food that will help head off and manage the effects of aging. Since different breeds vary so much, it's hard to give an age by which you should switch to a senior diet. The ASPCA recommends using weight as a guideline, and offers the following:

Small breeds or dogs weighing less than 20 pounds:7 years of age

Medium breeds or dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds:7 years of age

Large breeds or dogs weighing 51 to 90 pounds:6 years of age

Giant breeds or dogs weighing 91 pounds or more:5 years of age

The ASPCA recommends that you begin dealing with the symptoms of old age before they're obvious. Just like us, dogs will begin to accumulate more body fat as they age even as they consume fewer calories. (At least we're not alone!). Muscle mass will tend to decrease, but this doesn't mean you should lower your older dog's protein intake. If anything, protein is more important than ever to help maintain muscle mass, so avoid senior dog food formulas with reduced protein.

One thing you will want to feed him less of is calories. Obesity is a real problem with adult dogs, and many owners don't even realize their dog is overweight. Aside from portion size and calorie content, one way to avoid an overweight dog is to resist giving him table scraps. Most human food isn't good for your dog.

===========How Much to Feed============

How's your dog's weight? You should be able to feel your dog's backbone and ribs with light finger pressure, but not actually see them. If you have to "dig" to find them, your dog is overweight and if you can actually see her ribs, she's underweight.

If you're not sure how much to feed, you'll love the interactive Dog Food Calculator on PetsMart's home page! It's the result of considerable research that has been published in scientific journals and accepted by industry experts. You can determine the right amount of food to feed your dog and find out how long that 40-lb bag will last!

===========Supplements============

If you're all ready feeding a nutritionally complete premium dog food, do you still need supplements? This is another hotly debated topic. As a rule, it seems that most dogs do just fine without supplements. For certain dogs and certain conditions supplements can make a differenced. For example, a dog who isn't thriving and there's no other medical explanation for it might improve with supplements. Or, dogs with certain skin conditions have been known to improve on supplements. Since there's a danger of doing more harm than good, you should definitely discuss supplements with your vet.

If you do decide to use one, pick one that's made from natural sources and is designed as a multivitamin formulated specifically for dogs. That way she'll get everything in the right amounts and ratios. Add it to the diet twice weekly so you won't overwhelm or suppress your dog's own internal regulating mechanisms.

=======Special Diets==========

There are many reasons why a dog might be put on a special diet. Some dogs are very sensitive to certain ingredients in commercial dog foods. Even if you're feeding her the best of premium dog food , if your dog isn't thriving, it's possible her diet is a problem for her. Owners have resorted to alternative diets -- holistic, raw foods, even kosher -- to optimize their pet's health. Some choose these diets simply because they believe they're better, not because their dog is having any issues.

We'll discuss special diets in a future article. For now, I hope you've gained some useful insights about the benefits of premium dog food over and above economy brands.

EzineArticles Expert Author Carolyn Schweitzer

© 2004, Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and former family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of Great-Dog-Gift.com where she offers a wide range of choices for dog gift shoppers, plus shopping and gift-giving tips. (Also advice on dog care and feeding.)

Visit the site to learn which human foods can be hazardous to your dogs health

You can reach Carolyn by email at netbrainer@verizon.net.

The American Quarter Horse

It is thought, by some, that the foundation American Quarter Horse stock has at its roots Arabian, Turk, and Barb breeds. Others believe that the breed began with the acquisition of Chickasaw horses which were likely of Spanish extraction. Their history seems to begin around 1690, when horses exported from England were bred with native horses in America. The result of this cross was a small, stocky horse which was extremely fast in the quarter-mile sprint which the colonists loved to participate in during their off-time. Even when pitted against Thoroughbreds, this little horse came in first more often than not. Thus, the horse became known as the Quarter Horse.

In the 1800s, when the pioneers began to move west, they wanted a horse that could endure the rigors and was always willing to work. Their horse of choice was the Quarter Horse. They quickly found that the breed was excellent to use when working with cattle. Cattlemen soon preferred this animal because it seemed to know ahead of time what the cattle would do, and naturally moved to direct the herd where the cowboys wanted them to go. Even after the automobile was invented, Quarter Horses were still used almost exclusively on many ranches.

In 1940, the American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) was formed. From that year until the present, Quarter Horse breeders have worked diligently to perfect the bloodlines. The Association has set forth strict guidelines with regard to registration of American Quarter Horses. AQHs are allowed to have limited white markings on their faces, and below their knees. If there are white patches or spots anywhere else on the horse, it is considered to not be a true Quarter Horse.

The AQHA recognizes 13 colors as acceptable for the breed. The most dominant color is sorrel, which is a reddish-brown. The other colors are bay, black, brown, buckskin, dun, gray, grullo, palomino, red roan, and blue roan. What is called a gray is what most of us perceive as white. But, there are no "white" Quarter Horses.

There are two main body types which are acceptable for registration as Quarter Horses. The "stock" type, which is shorter, more compact, stockier, and well-muscled, yet agile. The "running" type is lighter and is bred and trained for sprinting.

Because this breed is very versatile, bloodlines are built with specific tasks in mind when producing the offspring. For AQH's shown "at halter", the line is bred to have a heavier body appearance, because these horses are incredibly muscled. For horses used as "reiners" and "cutters", the build is usually smaller and the horses possess cat-like, quicker movement and powerful hindquarters. Those bred for Western pleasure riding have a level "topline" and smoother gaits. Those which will be used for racing have longer legs and a leaner body build and those bred as show hunters have a similar build to the runners, but their bloodlines will include traits which are suited to horses used for hunting purposes. The whole Quarter Horse breed possesses speed, stamina, power, and an inherent willingness to please.

This horse is usually 14 to 16 hands (56 to 64 inches, or 142.24 to 162.56 centimeters) at the shoulder. The weight can vary drastically, depending on the purpose for which the horse was bred.

The American Quarter Horse is the most popular breed in the United States. And there are approximately 3.7 million registered American Quarter Horses worldwide, making it one of the most populous breeds in modern history.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Horses

Pet Flea Control

Fleas are the most common external parasite of pets in North America. Fleas are small wingless insects that use their specialized mouth to pierce the skin and siphon blood from their host. When a flea bites, it injects a small amount of saliva into the skin to prevent the blood from coagulating. Some animals become sensitized to flea saliva and animals that are allergic can have severe itching and scratching from a single bite. Flea allergy dermatitis is the most common disease among dogs.

Current flea control products are primarily either oral or topical systemic treatments. Most of the products may be used for prevention as well as to treat existing flea problems. One group of products control fleas by interrupting their development by killing or stopping the maturation of flea larvae and eggs. These drugs are called Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs). One common oral product used is lufenuron which is found in the Program® line of products which are administered orally in tablet or liquid form. Methoprene and pyriproxifen are also IGRs that are available as sprays or collars. The FDA shares regulation of these products with the Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Because even the same products from other countries have not been approved by these agencies, it is illegal to purchase or import these products for use in the United States.

Currently the most popular flea control products kill adult fleas (adulticide), are applied topically and work rapidly. Popular topical products utilize fipronil which is the key ingredient in Frontline® Top Spot and imidacloprid which is in Advantage®. The most popular product on the market, Frontline Plus®, utilizes both an adulticide and an IGR. An oral adulticide that is also available is nitenpyram which is in Capstar® and begins to kill fleas in 30 minutes. Frontline Plus also kills ticks which makes it the most popular product where ongoing tick protection is required.

Consult with your veterinarian to determine which flea and tick control products are best for you. The choice of flea control will depend on your climate, environment, your pet's activities, and potential for exposure. However, with consistent use, it is almost always possible to control your flea problem. Using these products throughout the year typically will eliminate the need for regular insecticidal use. The following provide additional summary information on selected popular products.

Program from Novartis®

Program is available as a once a month pill or oral liquid suspension to be given with a full meal. Adult fleas that ingest Program's key ingredient, lufenuron, produce sterile eggs. Program does not kill adult fleas so pets remain susceptible to fleas hatching and maturing pupa already present in the environment. Therefore, some time may pass before the all fleas are killed in an environment. In order to stop the life cycle, every animal in the environment must receive lufenuron. Pets should also be sprayed with an adulticide during the first week or two of starting Program.

Advantage from Bayer®

Advantage is applied topically on both dogs and cats and seems to be very well-tolerated by sensitive cats. Advantage kills fleas within 24 hours and 100% protection can be maintained for cats for 21 days and 90% protection can be maintained for dogs for 28 days. Advantage is susceptible to washing off so dogs that are active outdoors and dogs that swim or must be bathed frequently should be re-treated frequently. Up to weekly re-treatment is allowed. The imidacloprid in Advantage does not effect ticks, but K-9Advantix, with permethrin does. K9 Advantix is only labeled for once a month K9 Advantix is ONLY FOR USE WITH DOGS and MUST NOT BE ADMINISTERED TO CATS.

Frontline Spray, Frontline Plus And Frontline Top Spot from Merial®

Frontline Spray, Frontline Plus, and Frontline Top Spot comprise the market leading Frontline flea control product line. The fipronil in Frontline products is a broad spectrum insecticide available as a spray or topical. Fipronil works by binding chemically to the pet's hair and is absorbed through the follicle by the sebaceous glands. As a spray, fipronil kills fleas at 95% for over 80 days after application on dogs and for 1 month with biweekly bathing. Frontline is labeled for puppies and kittens as young as 8 weeks (10 weeks for Top Spot) and it is not washed off by bathing. Frontline is also affective against ticks. Some cats may show minor adverse reactions with high volume use of the alcohol based spray product which should be applied no more than once a month. Frontline Plus also contains the IGR, S-methoprene which inhibits the growth of immature fleas.

Capstar from Novartis®

Capstar is an oral tablet for dogs and cats that may be administered as young as 4 weeks of age. It offers extremely rapid and complete killing of adult fleas and is safe enough that the tablets may be used whenever fleas are seen on your pet as often as once per day. Capstar may be used in combination with an IGR to kill fleas immediately to compliment the long-term control of an IGR such as Program.

(c) VetDepot.com â€" Discount Pet Medications Mark Smith is a staff writer for http://www.VetDepot.com Vet Depot offers discount and wholesale brand name pet medications for dogs, cats, horses, and selected products for fish breeders. All over-the-counter (OTC) pet medications are manufactured for use in the United States with FDA/EPA approval. Vet Depot purchases from the same distributors that supply your local veterinarians. All products are Guaranteed Fresh.

A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For Success With Your Dog

I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.

The funny thing about this house is thatâ€"when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.

Well, practically every other house I’ve ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right sideâ€"or at least on the same side as the sink.

And I’ll be a monkey’s uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I’ve walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn’t instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.

This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a commandâ€"you continue to say, “come” and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.

Your dog should be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic responseâ€" Coming when called is responded to in much the same way that hearing a car backfire might make you duck your head, or cover your ears.

As I’ve already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we’re animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.

Just like our dogs.

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: dog training