Electric Dog Collars

Collars are an absolute necessity for dogs. Dog collars are of many kinds, based on the material used: nylon collars, cotton collars, metallic collars, suede collars, leather collars, handmade collars, woven collars, foam collars, or gold, silver or platinum collars. Varieties include adjustable collars, washable collars, training collars, no-bark collars, reflective collars, electric collars, waterproof collars, talking collars and others.


Electric dog collars are a very efficient way of controlling a dog’s behavior. They are also ideal for training the dog. The electric collar can be controlled using a remote control. A signal can be sent to the receiver in the collar when the user detects unfavorable behavior. The collar gives out a warning tone that would control the dog. If the tone doesn’t work, it can be used to stimulate the dog and stop him from doing any unwanted action. Electric dog collars have different ranges, starting from 100 yards to one and a half miles. The prices of these collars start from $90 and may go up to $300 depending upon the options available. These collars come with remote controls that have pre-set frequencies. Other different options include a waterproof receiver, different correction levels, multiple ranges and frequencies, different stimulation levels and a lightweight body.
Other kinds of electric collars are the no-bark collars and the training collars. These collars are also operated with remote controls. The receiver on the collar sends signals to the dog to stop barking or anything else the dog does. Training collars are ideal for sending out instructions to even the most difficult dogs, without being in their presence. Electric collars come in all sizes, ideal for big as well as small dogs.

Dog Collars provides detailed information on Dog Collars, Personalized Dog Collars, Small Dog Collars, Fancy Dog Collars and more. Dog Collars is affiliated with Designer Dog Clothes. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_Stith

Shih Tzu - Tips On Eliminating Bad Habits In Your Shih Tzu Puppy

Anyone who owns a shih tzu dog or shih tzu puppy will eventually run into the need to eliminate unwanted habits. While most shih tzu dogs are eager to please their owners and smart enough to do what is asked of them, it is important for the owner to properly communicate just what constitutes acceptable and unacceptable behaviors. Each type of unacceptable behavior requires its own specific cures, and in most cases the cures will need to be tailored to fit the specific personality of the shih tzu dog. Every breed of dog has its own unique personality characteristics, and every individual within that breed has his or her own unique personality. Whining, howling and excessive barking Let's start with one of the most frequently encountered problem behaviors in both dogs and puppies. While some barking and other vocalizing is perfectly normal, in many cases barking, howling and whining can become problematic. This is particularly important for those living in apartment buildings, or in closely spaced homes. Fielding complaints about barking is not the best way for you and your dog to meet the neighbors. Some tips of dealing with excessive whining, barking and howling include: If your shih tzu puppy or shih tzu dog is howling or whining while confined to its crate, immediately take it to its toilet area. Most shih tzu puppies and shih tzu dogs will whine when they need to do their business. It is important to teach a shih tzu dog or a shih tzu puppy to accept being alone. Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety, and these stressed dogs can exhibit all sorts of destructive and annoying behaviors. It is important to accustom the shih tzu puppy to being left on its own, even when the owner is at home. Always strive to make the shih tzu puppy or shih tzu dog as comfortable as possible. Always attend to the physical and psychological needs of the dog by providing food, water and toys. If the shih tzu dog is whining, check for obvious reasons first. Is the water dish empty? Is the shih tzu dog showing signs of illness? Has his or her favorite toy rolled under the furniture? Is the temperature of the room too hot or too cold? Do not reward the shih tzu puppy or shih tzu dog for whining. If the shih tzu dog whines when left alone, for instance, it would be a mistake to go to the shih tzu dog every time it whines. After you have ensured that the shih tzu's physical needs are being met, and that discomfort is not responsible for the whining, do not hesitate to reprimand the shih tzu dog for inappropriate behavior. Problem Chewing Puppies naturally chew, and they tend to explore their world using their mouths and teeth. While chewing may be normal, however, it is not acceptable, and it is important to nip any chewing problems in the bud to prevent the chewing shih tzu puppy from growing into a chewing shih tzu dog. Providing a variety of chew toys is important when teaching a shih tzu puppy what is appropriate to chew and what is not. Providing a variety of attractive chew toys is a good way to keep the shih tzu puppy entertained and to keep his teeth and gums exercised. Scented or flavored toys are great choices for most puppies. The shih tzu puppy should be encouraged to play with these chosen toys, and the shih tzu puppy should be effusively praised every time he or she plays with or chews these toys. Another great strategy is to encourage the shih tzu puppy to get a toy every time he or she greets you. Every time the shih tzu puppy greets you or a member of your family, teach him to get one of his toys. It is also important to exercise good housekeeping techniques when training a shih tzu puppy not to chew on inappropriate items. Keeping the area to which the shih tzu puppy has access free and clean is important. Keeping items out of reach of the shih tzu puppy will go a long way toward discouraging inappropriate chewing. Try to keep the shih tzu puppy's area free of shoes, trash, and other items, and always make sure that the area has been properly puppy proofed. If the shih tzu puppy does pick up an inappropriate item like a shoe, distract the shih tzu puppy and quickly replace the item with one of its toys. After the shih tzu puppy has taken the toy, praise it for playing with and chewing that toy. Try booby trapping items the shih tzu dog should avoid by spraying them with bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or other nasty but non-toxic items.

Cats, People, and the Black Plague: Those Who Kept Cats Survived

In the long history of human-animals relationships, a few episodes stand out in which one species has made a significant contribution to the survival of another. Rarely do cats get credit for such an accomplishment--more often dogs or horses, and then, usually in times of war--but the Black Plague of Europe is one of those times.

By way of background, the ancient Romans, in their conquest of Egypt, had brought cats home to Europe. Cats subsequently suffered a period of disfavor during the superstitious Middle Ages, for they had become associated with witches and the Devil; some people believed black cats were witches in disguise, or that they assisted witches in performing their craft. Those who kept cats as pets were the objects of much suspicion, and widespread cat hunting led almost to their extinction.

When rats from Asia brought the bubonic plague to Europe via trading ships in the mid-1300s, the epidemic (variously known as the Black Plague, the Great Plague, the Black Death, and the Great Mortality) swept across the continent, resulting in devastating loss of human life. In all, one-third of the population of Europe--some 34 million people--died. In England alone, more than half the human population perished; in some parts of France, ninety percent.

It took the authorities some time to figure out the cause of the problem. At one point they tested the theory that the disease was being spread by dogs and cats; thus the mayor of London ordered the execution of all such pets. Despite the extermination of millions of companion animals, however, the plague did not abate but actually accelerated, for, of course, the elimination of all cats was soon followed by an explosion of the rat population.

Eventually it became evident that people who had kept cats, in violation of the law, fared better; for the cats, according to their nature, killed the rats that carried the fleas that really carried the plague. People slowly began to deduce the rat-flea-disease connection. When the truth finally came to light, cats were quickly elevated to hero status, and soon became protected by law.

The Great Plague ended when the fleas started dying, as a part of their natural life cycle, in the cold of fall and winter. Subsequent plagues would visit Europe over successive generations, and other continents suffered similar outbreaks; it would not be until the 19th century that scientists really began to understand the epidemiology of the plague. Increased sanitary conditions over time helped reduce its incidence, and with the discovery of antibiotics in the 20th century, the threat of the plague was greatly reduced.

Would it be a stretch to say that, by bringing the rodent population under control, cats saved humans from extinction? At least, European humans? At a minimum, cats deserve credit for heroically saving the species that, through ignorance, almost wiped them out.

(C)Lisa J. Lehr 2006

Lisa J. Lehr is a freelance writer and Internet marketer specializing in direct response and marketing collateral. She holds a biology degree and has worked in a variety of fields, including the pharmaceutical industry and teaching, and has a particular interest in health, pets, and conservative issues.
Please visit her blog at http://warmfuzziesanimalrescue.blogspot.com
If you’re looking for a copywriter, her website is http://www.justrightcopy.com Just Right Copy-because words sell.

Caring For And Raising Puppies

The raising of puppies can be an exhilarating and rewarding experience. It can also be an experience wrought with frustration if some guidelines aren’t adhered to or if certain aspects of the duty are overlooked. There are a number of things that you can do for the puppies and their mother to help make their first days, weeks, and months together healthy and happy ones. The mother dog will spend the first few days after giving birth with her new puppies. It is important to check on the mother and the pups to ensure that the puppies are being kept warm enough and are being well fed and to make sure that Mommy is producing enough milk and is comfortable. If the mother leaves the puppies it will be very important to monitor their temperature closely. It is imperative that the pups be kept warm and their area should be kept at a temperature of ninety degrees Fahrenheit for the first four days of their young lives. The temperature can be decreased gradually after that. Remember that a large litter will still need to be kept warm, but that the puppies’ body heat will help keep them warm as they huddle together. The mother will be very protective of her pups and may display signs of anxiety when people come around the puppies. Some dogs will move the puppies from place to place in an effort to hide them from predators. This is instinctive behavior. Keeping the mother and her pups in an enclosed box may curb this problem as the darkness will ease the mother’s mind and make her feel that she’s found an ideal location for protecting her babies. During the puppies’ first month there should be little need for the owner to do much of anything for them. They will be cared for exclusively by the mother during this time. The owner’s role should be one of monitoring the pups’ progress and growth rate. The puppies should double their weight in about a week. By two weeks of age the pups will be alert and attempting to stand on their own. By the time they’re a month old the pups should all be able to walk, play, and run around. Now the fun starts! By about four and a half weeks, the puppies should be eating solid food. One way to train them in doing so is to start feeding them a mixture of canned or dry dog food mixed with a little water or milt to soften it. The pups will lap this up like they are drinking, but will be taking food in at the same time. Day by day the amount of liquid being used should be reduced until eventually the pups are eating the canned or dry food on its own. One activity that a new mother will engage in will sometimes alarm dog owners. In an effort to teach her pups how to urinate and defecate, mother may lick the pups’ hindquarters. This stimulus will make them “go.” The mother will often eat the pup’s excrement. She does this to both keep the pups’ area clean and eliminate the scent of her pups’ droppings that could alert predators in the wild. The pups will sometimes mimic this behavior and eat each other’s excrement for a short time. Most puppies will cease this behavior by the time they are weaned.

Bones for Your Dog - Delicious Treat or A Deadly Snack?

There is a difference of opinion among canine experts as to whether bones should be given to a dog raw, cooked, hard, or soft, and even whether they should be given at all. On one point, however, there is total agreement, never give a dog splintering bones from chicken, pork, fowl, and rabbit, (although chicken bones that have been cooked in a pressure cooker until they are very soft can be quite nourishing and safe).


A marrow bone is the traditional symbol of a treat for a dog, and he obviously appreciates it. It may be too big and hard for small dogs. In fact, large breeds generally handle bones much better than small ones. Bones that are mostly cartilage, such as spinal and shoulder bones of veal, knuckle bones, and soft rib bones, are good chewing material that can be entirely consumed.
The real danger is intestinal compaction, especially in small dogs, if the masticated bone has not been mixed with other residue in the dog's stomach. A small amount should cause no trouble if it is given right after a meal. Chop and steak bones are more dangerous. Careful eaters simply clean off the meat and fat, but greedy gobblers run the risk of internal injury from jagged bone splinters. The same is true of a leg of lamb bone.
What is the best policy to follow with a dog of your own? A teething puppy between four and six months of age should always have a bone, real or imitation, to chew on. You might give an adult dog a suitable bone as on occasional treat - for example, once a week. It will give him enormous pleasure, will help to keep his teeth clean and free from tartar, and will occupy him for several hours. But a nylon bone offers the same advantages without the risk!

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest designer dog carriers designer dog clothes and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://www.joncopets.com

Where to Find Free Dog Tags

Free dog tags usually come in the standard, basic materials, such as stainless steel, brass, anodized aluminum, or plastic. If you've ever tried to do a web search for free dog tags, you know what a pain it can be. Websites claim to offer free dog tags, but in fact you have to buy something first. This can be OK in many cases, especially when you need to stock up on pet supplies such as collars, leashes and chains, and other dog supplies. It doesn't cost much to make a dog tag, so manufacturers will offer these for free in many cases. Just imagine your dog's name on a tag, arriving in the mail, and you'll appreciate this personal touch. Alternatively, some websites won't offer free dog tags, but will offer free shipping. But if you want a free dog tag all by itself, you'll have to try some other avenues. The national pet supply chain PetsMart had a deal running whereby you could get free dog tags just by signing on to their mailing list, but that deal is now defunct. If you live in San Diego, CA, you're in luck. Many shelters and retailers there offer free pet tags. If you live in San Diego, go to petconnect.org. There you can order up to three free dog tags. You get up to five lines for your dog's name, your phone number, and your address. Sometimes you can even choose the color and shape. It will most likely be plastic, which works just fine if you're not looking to spend any money. Australia has a great animal control program. If you live in Australia, you should have no trouble finding a free dog tag. Call or go to any animal shelter and ask for a free dog tag. Many veterinarians offer free dog tags to clients. Ask your veterinarian. The Humane Society also offers free dog tags. Call your local chapter to find out how to get a free dog tag. They often include a serial number linked to the Humane Society's extended database. Sometimes, other types of animal shelters offer free dog tags as well. Look up "animal shelters" in your local yellow pages.

Trained Dog Fights

In the early winter of 2004, we found our beagle, Biscuit, with her one remaining puppy near a creek outside of our property line. Biscuit had managed to keep her tiny black puppy alive for four weeks in spite of bitter cold temperatures. Biscuit had a habit of having her puppies where no one could find them until the puppies were about a month old. With this particular litter, Biscuit would run home for a meal and then disappear again. Efforts to find her were in vain until that day. We fostered this puppy until she was about eight weeks old at which time we gave her to the family next door. They have a young daughter, so we thought we were doing a good thing. We were wrong- dead wrong. They named the puppy Dixie. I offered to have Dixie spayed but they declined. Looking back, I would have done things so much differently, but I learned many valuable lessons. When Dixie was about ten months old, a male chow found her. Three months later, eight more puppies were born. By this time, rumors had abounded throughout our neighborhood that the man next door was making money by fighting dogs. People claimed that late at night he was below his property in the light of a bonfire and that the screams of dogs could plainly be heard. Though no hard evidence has been presented by anyone to date, the entire neighborhood, and a few members of our police department are convinced this is true. Of the litter of eight, two puppies have been either sold or given away and two have died from circumstances unknown to anyone outside that family. The remaining puppies, plus three of the four adult dogs this family keeps frequently came to our house. At first, I believed it was to visit, since we love animals and we welcome other peoples pets onto our property, within reason. I fast determined that they were hungry. One dog- a black chow- was constantly chained in their back yard, so I never knew of her condition. The other seven, however were always dirty, neglected and hungry. We'd feed them every day. I bought extra dog food because no dog shall be hungry on my property. I went so far as to give them some money for dog food, though I'll never know if that money was used for their purpose or something else. A few days prior to this writing, two of the puppies, Teddy Bear and Rudy followed my daughter to our home right after school. This was fine until they got into a fight. In trying to stop the fight, my daughter was bit. After determining that her wound was not serious and putting her knee on ice, I ran outside to find my son now trying to stop the fight. By this time, the two puppies had made their way to the very bottom of my yard and were engaged in a literal fight to the death. I yelled at my son to get inside and had him call 911. I remained with the dogs and a broom. I was not successful in stopping this fight. When an officer finally arrived, he had to hit the aggressive dog with his nightstick and subsequently, removed the dog altogether. The dog was Teddy Bear and he was close to death as he lay on the back seat of the police cruiser. Rudy somehow managed to get up and go home. After a full day of repeated attempts to talk to my neighbor, I finally managed to talk with him a full two days after this incident. I chose the street, which provided a relatively safe and neutral environment- for both of us. I explained what happened, explained that my daughter had been bitten by one of his dogs on our property and that I was concerned that since dogs are not born with this type of fighting in him, that the neighbors suspicions that he in fact was fighting dogs might be true. Not only was he not concerned about my daughter, he completely blew up at the fact that the neighborhood was telling these lies about him. He became extremely defensive and hostile. Without offering any apology for my daughter and without offering any solution to prevent this from happening again, he yelled an expletive about the neighborhood and stalked away from me, saying he was done with it all. Had this been his daughter, and had my dog been the one on his property, my dog would be gone right now and I'd be cooling my heels in jail. That's how this man operates. He and his young daughter love to threaten to sue everyone for the smallest of infractions, but when it comes time to take responsibility, they are the very first to say we're all telling lies and that they are going to sue. Yet no one- not even the police- cared that my daughter was bit by an aggressive dog on our own property. Again, while I have no proof that these dogs were trained to fight, these are my suspicions as to why they are: A dog that fights to the death is dangerous. In this case, the puppies were about six months old. The attack was vicious, upsetting to all of us and left both dogs completely drained. Dogs, especially this young, that fight like this are taught, not "just like that", as this man claims they are. Were this man as innocent as he claimed, he would have immediately offered an apology for what happened, asked if my daughter was O.K. and then immediately took steps to ensure it would not happen again. Instead, he went into his house and the dogs remained free to wander at will. These dogs are all starving. All seven that I can see. Their ribs are clearly visible and their spines are becoming visible. A starving dog turns into an aggressive dog, and aggressive dogs are loved by their dog fighting owners. All of the dogs are skittish. Dixie was not skittish for many months, but now she shies away from even us at times. Dogs that aren't socialized are skittish, afraid and can become aggressive without warning in some situations. The neighbor yells at the dogs quite often, and his yelling can be heard from down the street. He cages all seven dogs in the same small pen for days at a time, and when they are finally let out from the cage, late that same night there is a lot of car traffic into his yard. Dogs that are caged for long periods of time build up energy. Many people will chain their hunting dogs up until it's time to hunt. The more energy the dog has to burn, the more aggressive they are when they hunt. This same principle applies to the fighting of dogs. Why is dog fighting harmful? For many reasons, the main reason being that training a dog to fight ruins a dog. It's the same principle as racing dogs, like the Greyhound. Once a Greyhound no longer has a race in them, most are killed because they simply hold no value. The same holds true for trained fighting dogs. Either the owner will kill the dog or another dog will. All the dog knows is fighting, aggression, and anger and it won't rest until it kills again or it goes insane. Not only is it not responsible, or ethical, to train a dog to fight, but it's criminal to allow such dogs to roam free, especially where there are other people in close proximity. My daughter is a perfect reason. I wonder something, though. How many more people will have to be hurt before the police do their job? Not only was my daughter bit by one of his dogs, I was also bit last summer. I still have the nerve damage to show for it. Moreover, the police did not say a word about placing Teddy Bear in quarantine to check for rabies after he bit my daughter. In conclusion, there are no good reasons to fight dogs, or any animal for that matter. In addition to the inevitable loss of the owners' dogs, there is great risk and potential for someone else to be hurt or killed by such actions. If you are a dog fighter, or know someone who is, please ask them two questions: Even though you don't care enough about your animal to treat it well, don't you care enough about protecting the people around you? Is it worth risking the life or health of someone else for a few minutes of greed, and animal cruelty just to make a few bucks or to get your kicks? It is my opinion that in the end, when it comes to dog fighting, no one emerges as a winner.

Who Is That Ugly Little Brown Dog?

When the Border Terrier first made its appearance in the A.K.C. show ring, onlookers were often heard to ask "What breed is that ugly little brown dog?" The Border Terrier does appear to be rather plain, a simple and straight forward looking, unassuming brown dog.

Personality wise however he packs a lot of punch. Developed to "run with the hounds" and worry the fox , the Border Terrier is courageous and exploratory in nature. As an addition to a household, he can get himself into a lot of trouble! His inquisitive forays into the neighborhood mandates that his owners have a securely enclosed area, especially since he is not a large dog and he can wiggle his way out of a lot of enclosures.

The Border Terrier has boundless energy. He is playful and a bit scrappy in nature. However he should not posses the typical aggression associated with most terrier types, since he must blend well into the fox hound pack. The history of his usefulness as an "assistant" to the hounds demands that he get along well with other dogs. He was bred to worry the fox when the hounds caught up, thus his nature should be one of dauntless courage and tenacity.

The standard calls for a small dog of stocky proportions. He should have a broad, otter-like skull with folded ears set close to his head, and a broad and sturdy body which is not actually very representative of most breeds who are within the Terrier group. The height is about 13 centimeters at the withers. The chest should not be "barrel" and his coat should be straight and lie close to the body. Colors range from dull red to wheaten to black and tan or blue and tan, a small amount of white on the chest is permissible but not common. Teeth should have a scissors bite and be strong. Shoulders should be well laid back so that he can negotiate rough country when running with the hounds.

The Border Terrier has proved himself useful as a therapy dog. His small size and gentle nature work well in this pursuit, plus his coat is not a difficult care coat so that he is easy to keep clean for his visits to hospitals and homes for the elderly. He has also become a favorite dog for the agility ring as he has speed and a genuine love of the chase. He is tractable and easy to train, being highly intelligent. The border terrier is equally at home in a small apartment or as a country dog. Assistance dogs generally are larger than this little dog, but in the areas of assistance dogs for the deaf or as a "seizure dog" the Border terrier has made himself quite useful. And of course, in the show ring, he is gaining steadily in popularity.

The Border Terrier seems to be very stable in matters of health. He presently is not considered a "problem dog" but care must be taken with responsible breeding or surely problems of health will develop, as this has often occurred in the history of breeding dogs. Especially when a dog is of a smaller stature or becomes popular, puppy millers tend to breed indiscriminately to meet the demands of the market, and this can lead to health related problems which were not present early on. If responsible breeders continue to maintain a tight control over the sale of un-neutered animals then the future will be secured with good health remaining one of the attributes of this "ugly little brown dog".

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Animals

If Humans are Merely Animals, Why do they rule the Surface of the Planet

Many zoologists and research biological scientists believe that humans are nothing more than really fancy designed animals. That is to say more adapted and highly evolved than most all other species in the animal kingdom. Mankind indeed has conquered the top of the food chain yet if humans are merely animals, how come the species is so successful?

Recently this topic came up with the principle investigator of the “Why Are Humans Unique Project” in an online think tank who stated;

“We could establish value boundaries beforehand from and establish our base model in determining and categorize the samples into there appropriate groups. I believe this would provide us with a sufficient process to measure whether or not each species is in the same grouping as the other.”

Another think tanker in the group was fascinated by all this and then stated; “Well this makes more sense, as the animal groupings each have particular characteristics that humans share, but humans have nearly all the capabilities whereas each animals species has one, two, three or so. With only a few species like Dolphins, Elephants, Pigs, Guerillas, Chimpanzees, Canines, etc. with many and very similar to humans. I would call these higher order mammals.”

Yet in such a classification of the animal kingdom, it seems all this is available on the Discovery Channel, Animal Channel, Science Channel, NOVA and Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom. Even Encarta has charts of these things along with the “Time Life Series” which I have read all thru cover to cover. Most Zoology Text books I have perused do to.

The head researcher for the project also stated; “I feel this procedure has a very good chance at providing the argument in question and other similar debates with a valuable data set.”

The rest of the think tank members seemed to be inline with all this and one gentleman stated; “I agree but it really seems all this has been done already and I have found fault with little of it. Some of the old stuff like animals do not make tools or use tools and those such thoughts have been dispelled now.”

What are your thoughts on humans and their uniqueness? What have you considered about your own species identity? Have you considered any of these concepts? What do you think of the “Why Are Humans Unique Project?” Consider all this in 2006.

"Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

Dog training - house training your dog

House training is one of the most important parts of training any dog to be a valued part of the family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best way to house train a dog is to use the dog's own nature to your benefit. The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. Dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits regarding where they like to urinate and defecate. For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible to use these natural canine habits when house training your dog. Setting up the training area The first step in house training your dog is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining. It is important for the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her dog as possible. It is important for the owner to play with the dog in the training area, and to let the dog eat and sleep in that area. The dog should be provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store bought bed to a large towel to a large box. At first, the dog may eliminate in this area, but once the dog has recognized it as his or her own space, he or she will be reluctant to soil it. After the dog has gotten used to sleeping in the bed, the owner can move it around the house, relocating it from room to room. When you are not with your dog, the dog should be confined to the training area. Setting up the toilet area The second part of house training is to set up the toilet area for the dog. It is important for the dog to have access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for the owner to accompany the dog each time until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in the toilet area. This will ensure that the dog uses only the established toilet area. A set feeding schedule makes the house training process a lot easier for both the owner and the dog. Feeding the dog on a regular basis will also create a regular schedule for the dog's toilet habits. Once you know when your dog is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide the dog to the established toilet area. Once the dog has established a toilet area and is using it on a regular basis, it is very important to not confine the dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. That is because if the dog is unable to hold it, he or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area. This habit can make house training much more difficult. Continuing the house training process After the dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended once you are sure of the dog's ability to control its bladder and bowels. When you first expand the training area to a single room, let the dog eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended. Speeding up the process If this process is too lengthy for your needs, it can be speeded up, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It is easier to take your time up front than to retrain a problem dog later. One way to successfully speed up house training is to praise and reward the dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is also important not to punish the dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process.

Dogs - Hip Dysplasia Causes and Treatments

Your Questions on Canine Hip Dysplasia - Answered. What is canine hip dysplasia? Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) is one of the most frustrating diseases in veterinary medicine today simply because it is so difficult to prevent and treat. CHD is a developmental disease of the bones in which the head of the thigh bone poorly fits the hip socket, causing damage to the cartilage, gradual destruction of the joint, pain and swelling. This disease should not be confused with hip arthritis. Rather, it is the most common cause of arthritis in the hips. How is canine hip dysplasia transmitted? CHD is a inheritable disease. It is passed on by the parents to the offspring. The only effective measure therefore to eradicate the disease is to prevent dogs with hip dysplasia from breeding. However, this is easier said than done, because not all dogs with hip dysplasia show signs of the disease. Seemingly normal dogs still carry the gene for CHD and are bred, causing the disease to stay within the genepool. How does one know if a dog has hip dysplasia? A dog with hip dysplasia generally has less energy and movement. It has difficulty rising from a sitting position, lameness in the back legs, is hopping like a rabbit when running, and is reluctant to go up the stairs. However, these symptoms are usually not evident till the dog reaches middle age. In extreme cases though, some dogs exhibit obvious hip problems as early as 5-6 months of age. How does a vet confirm if a dog has hip dysplasia? Sad to say, there is no blood test or genetic test yet that will detect if a dog is a carrier of CHD or not. Diagnosis of the disease is routinely done through physical examinations and x-rays. X-rays help in assessing how bad the condition is, and through comparison with future x-rays, it can also serve as a gauge of how well the chosen treatment is working. Two techniques for taking x-rays of CHD-afflicted dogs are listed below: 1.hip-extended ventrodorsal view x-ray - It provides a frontal view of the pelvis and hip-joints and best assesses the degree of severity of arthritis present. 2.PennHIP radiography technique - It is used to detect hip looseness in dogs as young as four months of age. What are the treatment options for canine hip dysplasia? There is no real cure for CHD just yet, but there are conservative or non-surgical ways to relieve its symptoms. These include the use of drugs to relieve pain and inflammation. Rimadyl, Ectogesic and Deramaxx are effective and have given a lot of suffering dogs the relief needed to live a normal life. Weight loss programs, controlled exercise and physical therapy are also very effective in certain cases. When conservative treatment is not enough, the only other option is surgery. Surgery can be very effective as it corrects the underlying cause of hip pain which is a malformed joint. Surgery is approached in two different ways when dealing with hip dysplasia. Prophylactic surgery is done to prevent the progression af arthritis while therapeutic surgery aims to treat already arthritic hips. Triple pelvic osteotomy is the primary preventive procedure available. It involves cutting the pelvis in three places and rotating the hip sockets to provide better coverage. This procedure is effective as long as it is done before arthritis sets in or before the joint is damaged. Another kind of preventive surgery, although still being studied if it is effective or not, is pubic symphysiodesis. This involves manipulating the way the pelvis grows to ensure a tighter hip. This procedure is done on very young dogs. Therapeutic procedures include total hip replacement and femoral head ostectomy. Total hip replacement is performed mainly on larger dogs. High density, medical plastic is used to replace the socket and a high-quality, non-corrosive alloy is used for the ball. This procedure has a high success rate, almost completely eliminates pain and enables the dog to completely resume activity. Another therapeutic procedure for hip dysplasia is femoral head ostectomy. It involves the removal of the top of the femur which then eliminates the painful grinding at the hip joint. The femur is then allowed to float freely causing the formation of scar tisue which then serves as a false joint. This procedure is not recommended for mild cases of arthritis and is generally effective only on smaller, well-muscled dogs. Can canine hip dysplasia be prevented? The best measure of prevention is of course careful breeding since hip dysplasia is a inheritable condition. The onset of hip dysplasia can be delayed in many dogs with a genetic predisposition by preventing excessive weight gain during the early months and by making sure that the puppy does not place undue stress on the hips. OFA and PennHip offers information on breed risk. Prospective puppy buyers are advised to check for pedigrees for OFA, PennHip or GDC certifications.

Dealing With your Pets' Allergies

It is Winter time again, a time of the year when pets and humans are very vulnerable to each other. As this is obviously the chilliest time of the year, animals are much more likely to be cooped up inside the house with us. All of the windows and doors are closed to the world and the heat is blasting around the clock.

These are precisely the conditions which make our winter homes playgrounds for some kinds of allergens. Our dogs and cats are considerably vulnerable to the dust in the carpet, the mold inside the walls of your old house and other pets. But warm moist times of the year are high allergy times as well. Allergies are simply the most common conditions affecting cats and according to the Kansas State University, 15% of dogs suffer from common allergies like pollen and house dust. An allergic reaction is the work of an overactive immune system. It is when an animal responds abnormally to a seemingly everyday substance like grass or general food ingredients.

Of the different kinds of allergies, contact allergies are the least common in cats and dogs. An Example of a contact allergen is a flea collar. Grass and various kinds of bedding such as wool are also examples. An Inhalant Allergy is the most common allergy for cats and is also prevalent in dogs. This particular kind of allergy is caused by the hypersensitivity of the immune system to environmental substances. A Flea Allergy is the single most common dog allergy but is also common cats. The normal dog or cat suffers only somewhat minor irritation in lieu of a flea bite with minimal itching.

A food allergy is also somehat common in pets. Cats often become allergic to their most common protein such as tuna. Dogs can be allergic to proteins like chicken and beef. When it comes to allergies, like most things it's a matter of controlling, not curing. Once an animal's body becomes hypersensitive to certain things, it is then eternally vulnerable to those things.

Regarding treatment of allergies, the most common treatments are topical products like shampoos or antihistamines. There are also certain supplements that you can give to your pets to help support

the insides of their bodies, which to an extent determine the condition of the outside. Studies have shown that if we shampoo our pets' coats on a regularl basis, it is much less likely that foreign substances will enter through the skin. Regular bathing discourages allergens -- irritants such as dander and dead hair. When our pets itch and injure their skin, it leaves their internal landscapes much more vulnerable to skin problems For additional Information visit

Dog Supplements from Life's Abundance for help with your dog

Ryan Joseph is a writer/researcher of pet issues. For more info. visit http://www.premium-cat-food.com/

What's All The Buzz About Underground Dog Fences?

The new craze on the puppy circuit is underground dog fences. Simply put, underground fences are electronic containment systems designed to teach pets their boundaries while in your yard. They use a small "shock" which is transmitted through an electronic collar. These hidden fences can actually contain your dog within the barrier without forking out the expenses of putting up a fence. While most dogs don't like being kenneled up for long periods of time while you are working or the kids are at school, this gives them the option of roaming the front and back yard and letting them have a sense of freedom, but only where the invisible fence will allow them. The advantage of having an underground dog fence is that you won't have to resort to ropes, chains and cages, which some people consider inhumane and unhealthy for your dog. While wire fences are expensive, can be dug under or jumped over and allow for little exercise, they can also distract from the beauty of landscapes and in most cases decrease the property value of your home. Underground fences are reasonably priced and invisible, meaning that nobody will even know it's there except you and your dog! Here's how it works. When a dog approaches the fenced area, he'll receive a warning tone. Then, if after two seconds he hasn't retreated back, the tone will the be followed by a mild electrical jolt, transmitted through a device connected to his collar. The jolt will be harmless and painless to your pet and matched to his specific temperament. If he still chooses to not retreat back, the electrical jolt then sets itself to the highest level to prevent the dog from running through it. Although the underground dog fence is safe for all dogs, it is recommended that you wait until your puppy is between the ages of 16 and 20 weeks before trying to train him with the system. Easily installed, underground dog fences will give your dog freedoms that he may not otherwise have. While dogs tend to be nosey, trying to cross the street, going into the neighbor's yard, digging in your flower garden or chasing those passing by, the underground system will quickly teach him where he is and isn't allowed to go. Check with your local pet supply stores for information on underground dog fences and pricing. Just as you need freedom and exercise, so does your dog. Remember, he is part of your family and it is your job, as his owner and caretaker, to be sure he is safe and healthy. With an underground dog fence you can give him that safety and independence that dogs love so much. You might even get a warm smile and thank you from the mailman!!

Prevention and Detection of Dog Ear Infections

Ear infections are a fairly common ailment for most dogs -- the problem is, you might not realize that there is a problem until its a painful problem for your dog.

Detection

Do you see your dog shaking it's head a little too often? Does your dog rub it's ears with it's paws, on the carpet, on the furniture, on your leg? Does your dog love it a little too much when you scratch it ears? These are all possible signs of an ear infection.

Did your dog used to love getting it's ears scratched but now shies away from you when you reach for it's ears? That's a sure sign of an ear infection.

Here are two other signs of this particular trouble: You see what looks like dirt in your dogs ears and wonder what its been up to. Your dog has an unusually bad smell -- even shortly after a bath.

That probably isn't dirt in the dogs ears (unless its been messing around in some very dirty places) -- its probably a build-up of ear wax and, if it is ear wax, that's probably also the cause for the mysterious odor.

An excess of smelly ear wax would, in most cases, be caused by inflamed (infected) ceruminous glands (wax glands) in it's ears. When these glands get infected they discharge extra amounts of ear wax. The excess ear wax causes the dogs ears to itch at first, that's why the rubbing and the blissful look when you scratch it's ears. After a while, if you don't spot the problem and get the dog to a vet, the wax buildup will become painful and the dog won't want you to touch its ears and the dog will become listless and probably not want to do anything except lay around -- waiting for the pain to go away.

The scenario described above is a typical outer ear infection and outer ear infections are by far the most common dog ear infections. The medical name is Otits Externa -- simply meaning “infection in the outer ear.” Just to complicate matters, you should know that dogs with ear infections often wind up with another problem -- ear mites.

Prevention

Your dog needs you to protect it from the pain of an ear infection and here's how you can do it: don't wait for the signs of an ear infection, check your dog's ears at least once a week.

-Feel the skin on the inside (least haired side) of each ear. The skin should feel perfectly smooth -- if this skin feels rough or grainy you might already have an ear infection problem on your hands.

-Look into the ear -- you should see a normal (not red or swollen) looking ear canal. Worst case: you'll see some type of yellow or dark discharge or possibly pus draining from the ear.

-Smell the ear -- you should not smell anything unpleasant.

-If you see any signs of an ear infection, get your dog to a veterinarian.

-If you see a bit of wax or dirt in the ear but it doesn't seem to be bothering the dog, clean it's ears. Even if the ear looks clean and clear, and you haven't cleaned the dog's ears for a week or so, clean the ears.

Cleaning Your Dog's Ears

If you are not already cleaning your dogs ears on a regular basis, it may try to get away from you because it's not sure what you are doing and afraid that whatever it is will hurt. Calm the dog down by petting it and talking gently to it -- your tone of voice is always the key to your dog's reactions. Once you've started cleaning it's ears on a regular basis the do will get used to it and even appreciate the extra attention.

-Get an ear wash solution made specially for pets. Get it from a pet supply store or from your vet.

-Apply some ear wash solution to the inside of the dogs ears with a cotton ball or cotton-tipped swab. (Careful! Don't have the cotton ball or swab dripping wet -- you don't want to get anything down in the ear canal.)

About now, your dog will want to shake it's head to get the excess moisture out of it's ears -- it's OK -- let him or her shake it out.

-Take a fresh cotton tab with more of the ear-wash solution on it and clean the inside of the ear, around the folds and places where ear wax might build up.

Don't get into cleaning deep down into the ear canal -- that's for a veterinarian to do. If you see any build-up of ear wax deep down, let your vet take care of it.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

Thoughts on using shock collars to train your dog.

A shock collar is a small box on a dog collar that usually has two metal prongs that are in contact with a dogs skin. The device works by usually emitting a warning noise followed by an electric shock to the dog. On some models the shock can be increased in intensity. These collars are designed to shape behavior, for example they can be set to go off when a dog barks. Alternatively the handler can carry a remote control unit that delivers a shock when the dog does undesirable behavior. There really is no need to use such methods to train a dog, there are more humane methods to shape a dogs behavior such as clicker training that gives a reward for shaping behavior. The reasons why I believe shock collars are not necessary for training are as follows: * A dogs skin is much thinner than a humans skin. As a result the shocks these devices give can be very painful. Additionally if a dog becomes wet the pain inflicted can increase. * Shocking a dog can lead to behavior problems where the association of the shock with people or circumstances can lead to potentially aggressive behavior. * Sadly there are people that will use these devices irresponsibly or worse for fun on their pets. For many years I have used treats and praise for training my dogs. I believe in using kind training methods and rewarding dogs for good behavior. Dogs love to be rewarded be it with praise, treats, toys and exercise. In my experience a dog that is trained using positive training methods is well behaved, good tempered and happy. Joyce Barker - www.dogtraininginfo.co.uk

The Noble Great Dane

Wild boars used to roam in the wilds of Europe many centuries ago. In those days the titled land-owners cherished the large dog known as the "Boar Hound" which had the courage, the agility, the speed and the strength to hunt these beasts and bring them down. It is believed that the magnificent dog that we know of today as the Great Dane is descended from the original "Boar Hound". One can readily see that the Great Dane would have the ability to perform this task admirably. They have the length of leg for the speed, the chest and lungs for the endurance and great strength of jaw.

It is a mystery why this dog is called the Great Dane since there is no actual tie in history that relegates this dog to the country of Denmark as its origin. It was known early as the "Deutchse Dogge" in Germany and is believed to have been developed in that country. They were prized by the land-owners not only for their abilities as a dog for the hunt, but their beauty and passive tranquility as dogs which could reside in the manor and be a part of the household. They are indeed quite nicely attuned to being a dog that lies quietly in front of the fireplace, while at the same time being a fearless and active hunting dog of great stamina and power. They also do well at the job of guard dog while at the same time being a gentle family pet, allowing children to climb on them and tug on them without a hint of aggression. For the most part, the Great Dane is quite happy to just lie around the household and sleep. Owners need to be aware that to keep this giant dog in good health, they should give it plenty of exercise, it will not choose to do so on its own!

Great Danes, like most of the giant breeds, take a long time to mature, and the puppy years last at least until the dog is a two year old. Puppies of course can be more rambunctious than adults so there is a period of time when the youngster can do good deal of damage to the household in the absence of supervision. Early training is a must since by the time they are six months old they could weigh nearly 60 pounds and be quite a handful if not taught basic manners in the house. Their excessive height allows them to check out counter tops nicely by the age of six months.

Danes come in nearly every color, even Harlequin (white with black spots). The most beautiful of the Danes are perhaps the Blues, which can range from a light gray to a steel-blue coloring. However, Dane lovers will profess that they all are a delight to own, regardless of color. The head of the Great Dane appears quite regal in nature, the jowls should not be loose and there should be no hint of drooling. The jaw is rather square in appearance and the muzzle should be as long as the backskull. The look of the dog should be clean and when moving he should balance well and be "light on the feet". A good Dane will move with such grace that one could not imagine that in reality he weighs more than 140 pounds! A male Dane should be 32 inches at the shoulder and a female 30 inches. Less than 28 inches is a disqualification in the A.K.C. show ring.

Probably the most important aspect of the Great Dane should be the temperament, which must be one of dependability and never aggressive. Aggression in such a large breed could have disastrous consequences and breeders of today should be commended that they have made a great effort to maintain the gentle nature of this dog.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Foxtails

[Editor's Note: This article is a result of an interview regarding foxtails with veterinarian Doctor Linda Amezcua of the Linda Mar Veterinary Clinic in Pacifica, California. As with all medically related articles, the reader needs to know some of the conditions covered are very complex and discussed with specific medical terminology. Yet our newsletter must present information briefly and simply. Thus, because we simplify and abbreviate the actual interviews, it will always be wise to check with your own vet prior to following any advice that may be offered. Further, Dr. Amezcua recommends that you consider the following when dealing with foxtails: "Don't ignore the symptoms: always assume the foxtail is in the dog unless proven otherwise, and get your dog to a vet to have it removed!"] The foxtail in its "green condition" is a native plant in Western areas of the United States. This plant populates the area by drying and breaking apart into tiny burrowing duplicates. The "seedlings" are physically built to burrow. While some animals do not have difficulty with the plant (horses can eat them with no side effects), and people seem to be able to remove them easily, dogs appear to have the most severe reactions to them. The outsides of the "seedlings" contain a bacterium with enzymes used to break down vegetation. This bacterium also allows the seedling to burrow into a dog along the tunnels of pus created by the enzyme. In fact, Dr. Amezcua informed us: pus and foxtails go hand in hand. A foxtail can literally go anywhere in the dog. For example, they have been found inside the brain, anal glands, eyes, ears, jowls, feet, spinal cord, lungs, and vagina. We will focus on the symptoms, first aid treatment, and veterinary treatment for foxtails in the more common areas of the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, feet, vagina, and a general wound. Ears: The symptoms are clear: a head tilt or head shaking is the immediate response of a dog that has a foxtail in its ear. Later, the symptoms look like an ear infection. The larger the dog, the less noticeable the symptoms so monitor your dog carefully. Vizslas, due to their height and hanging ears, are less likely to get foxtails during normal every day activity than shorter and/or pricked-ear dogs. However, our dogs can and do get foxtails in their ears. First aid response is to put drops of oil into the affected ear to soften the foxtail. This softening helps prevent the foxtail from moving forward and may allow the dog to shake it out. Unless you see the foxtail shaken out, do not assume it has been removed. Take the dog to a vet for removal of the foxtail. The vet will most likely conduct an otoscopic exam and a simple retrieval. Eyes: Symptoms for foxtails in the eyes are a gummy discharge and a squint, or an eye glued shut. In parts of California, for example, if an eye is glued shut, it is generally considered a foxtail and treated as such. First aid response is to calm the dog. If the foxtail is in sight and you can control your dog, use a blunt tweezer to pull out the foxtail. Foxtails cannot be flushed from the eye with water or eye-wash, nor can they be removed by applying ointment. Get your dog to the vet. Once at the vet, the dog will usually need to be placed under a general anesthesia, especially if your dog cannot remain calm while being handled. After a topical ointment is applied, the vet will remove the foxtail. A calm dog can have a foxtail removed from its eye without the anesthesia, but most cannot. Nose: For a foxtail in the nose, the obvious symptoms are spasmodic and serial sneezing. If blood comes from the nose as a consequence of sneezing, you are almost assured it is a foxtail. First aid treatment is to drop (not squirt) some oil into the nose. Mineral oil is best but baby or vegetable oil can be used. The oil will soften the foxtail, so hopefully, it will not continue to burrow. The oil is for the dog's comfort as well as to help stop the foxtail from poking the sensitive nasal passages. But again, get your dog to a vet quickly. Once at the vet, the dog will be anesthetized, its nose scoped, and the foxtail found and removed. Mouth: Dogs can get foxtails in their mouth. The symptoms of a foxtail stuck in the gums or back of the throat include gagging, difficulty swallowing when eating, etc. If swallowed, foxtails can be passed. However, if it gets caught in periodontal pockets, the tongue, in between teeth or in the back of the throat, it can cause problems. You can tell if this has occurred, not only from the above symptoms, but also because the dog may have a "dead body" odor coming from the mouth. The vet will anesthetize the dog, then locate and remove the foxtail. Interdigital: Symptoms are continuous licking of the foot or pad, or the appearance of a bubbly swelling between the toes. First check the dog. If you think there is a foxtail, you can soak the foot in warm water 10 to 15 minutes one or two times a day for three days. This will assist in the creation of an abscess in the area that will eventually burst. Once it bursts, you can remove the foxtail by milking the abscess and backing out the foxtail. Once the foxtail is removed, keep soaking the foot, but now add an antiseptic (like betadine) to the water (about one tablespoon per cup of water). What should be clear by now is that for foxtails, "pus marks the spot," so always look for a bubble of pus on the foot. Sometimes the bubble shows up and disappears, then shows up somewhere else on the dog's leg. >From our experience this indicates a roving foxtail and the best bet is to get your dog to the vet. Vagina: This area is hard to spot symptoms at for they are not as obvious as in other areas. Look for a swollen area in the groin and constant licking of the vaginal area. There is no first aid treatment. Take the dog to a vet immediately. Any foxtail that enters a dog through the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, feet, or vagina ,if ignored, has the potential to travel (burrowing along the tunnels of pus created by the seedling's bacteria) anywhere in the dog's body. Don't ignore any of the outermost symptoms, as internal symptoms are usually not visible. Severe injury and even death can occur if the foxtail reaches the dog's brain, spinal cord, heart or lungs. Wounds: At one field trail I was at, a dog had cut itself severely on barbed wire. The cut was a long one and nearly ran the length of the dog's leg. As the dog and owner came in from the field, one could see not only the blood but could also tell the dog had debris in the wound. The owner did not understand the dangers of foxtails and did not have a first aid kit to assist the dog. Kay Ingle, who was standing next to me, instantly grabbed sterile water and tweezers from her first aid kit and started carefully pulling and washing out foxtails from the wound. After doing what she could, she instructed the owner to leave the trial and get the dog to the local vet, which he did. In Dr. Amezcua's 14 years of experience in the greater San Francisco and Peninsula area, less that one percent of the dogs that had foxtails have died; in her case only two dogs. In both cases, the dogs died due to the foxtail getting into the lungs. Unfortunately, there are no symptoms to recognize when the foxtail is in the lungs. The lungs can fill with pus and lead to to death. Although generally foxtails do not lead to death, they can cause severe injury. After any event in areas with foxtails, it is wise to carefully inspect your dog. It is also wise to immediately treat any dog that shows the above symptoms and get it to a vet. You might also want to add blunt tweezers, mineral oil, and an eye dropper to your growing first aid kit for field trial dogs. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

Bird Flu, your Cat, and You

Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza, caused by the H5N1 virus,(commonly called bird flu) has been detected in cats and other felidae (e.g. leopards and tigers) from time to time since the start of the present poultry avian influenza epidemic in 2003.
In 2004 researchers showed that cats can be infected with H5N1 virus and that the virus could not only cause severe disease (and death) in cats, but also that cats could transmit the virus to other cats.

On present evidence however, it is highly unlikely that cats play any major role in the natural transmission of H5N1 viruses. In other words, although susceptible to the virus, they are "accidental" hosts.
However, because cats can be susceptible to the H5N1 virus, it does mean that there is the potential for domestic cats to contract the disease and then to pass it on to other cats, other species, and perhaps humans.

How might cats become infected with the H5N1 virus? There are 2 main scenarios.
a) Eat infected poultry meat - hence the association between infected cats and outbreaks of bird flu in poultry.
b)Many migratory waterfowl are carriers of the H5N1 virus. These are unlikely to come into close contact with cats, but they intermingle with other bird types that might well come into close contact with cats.

Cats are not the only mammals that can be infected with the H5N1 influenza virus. Tigers, Leopards, Civets, dogs and pigs are all recorded as having been infected and there is little reason to suggest that other mammals could not be infected by the virus.

While this information is slightly unsettling, it needs to be put in context. Mammals (including humans) need to be exposed to massive amounts of virus to become infected. This is supported by the fact that most human deaths from H5N1 have occurred where those people have had prolonged exposure to poultry circulating the H5N1 virus.

In addition, infected mammals shed very small amounts of virus, thus further reducing the potential for transmitting the virus from mammal to mammal (e.g. from cat to human).
A few other things worth mentioning.
1) The H5N1 virus is quickly killed at 70C. Thus normal cooking of chicken meat will kill the virus.
2) Commercial poultry routinely slaughtered at an approved slaughter plant does not represent a health hazard. This means that 99.9% of dressed poultry available in all first world economies (and many developing economies) is perfectly safe to eat. Not eating chicken "because of bird flu" is a nonsensical, uninformed reaction.
3) Not every cat that develops the sniffles now has bird flu! However, if you are in an area that has had an H5N1 outbreak in poultry, then a sick cat should ring some alarm bells.
4) Practice normal good hygiene - wash your hands with soap and water after handling animals or cleaning out litter trays etc.
So while cats can become infected with the bird flu virus, the chances of them transmitting it to other animals or humans at the moment is very slim indeed. Unfortunately, Influenza viruses are constantly changing through mechanisms known as antigenic shift and antigenic drift, which means that what is true today may change in six months time.

Watch this space!

Keith Perrett is a qualified Veterinarian
http://www.pet-health-for-humans.com/bird-flu.html

Build A Better Mousetrap, And People Will Buy It

This is an old saying that many of us have grown up hearing since we were children, but the problem is improving on an invention that has been around for years. This is especially true for simple inventions like the common pet identification tag, or dog tag as it is normally referred too as. The pet identification tag has been a staple of our society for hundreds of years as a way to identify the owners of a particular lost pet, but it was not until World War I that the pet tag became famous and picked up its moniker as the “dog tag.”

The idea was simple, it was a piece of metal worn around the collar to identify the owner of the pet, and this tag usually contained the pets name, and owners contact information. During that time it was all a pet owner needed if their pet was lost, because generally they worked for one company for forty years, brought their home and lived there for about the same amount of time, so there was no need to change the contact information. Today it is completely different with the average stay on the job lasting about five years, and the turnaround time in the average house lasting only five to seven years. Because of this, the average pet owner will have to purchase a new pet tag almost every three years to update contact information, and this brings us back to improving on that mousetrap.

With pet owners constantly on the move in an ever upwardly mobile society changing addresses and phone numbers, purchasing a new pet tag every couple of years has become a waste of time and money, because there is a service that allows the pet owner to purchase only one pet identification tag, and update their contact information free for the life of the pet. This company also links that pet tag to their contact page on its website, so if the pet is ever lost, no matter who finds it they will have up to ten ways to contact the owner to return the lost pet. This owner locating service is internet based, so it is accessible around the world to anyone that has access to the internet, this makes it especially valuable for those who travel with their pets.

The company that has, if not built, improved on that old mousetrap is RecoveryPets.Com, and they specialize in the global recovery of lost pets for those registered with their service. This company has taken the pet tag and linked it with their website to provide a service that out exceeds the original purpose of the pet tag. They provide for their registered pet owners a webpage that contains the pets name, a complete description, a photograph, and up to ten contact phone numbers or email addresses.

RecoveryPets.Com has a mission to help pet owners feel more secure that if their pet is ever lost, the person that finds them will be able to return them to the owners. The company is also working with various agencies to get the word out about their services in an effort to have these agencies have a one-stop location to identify lost pets for possible reunification with their owners. They will work with animal shelters and rescue agencies in any geographical location to set up services and distribute information about their services, all the agency has to do is contact them by email at partners@recoverypets.com for more information.

Now that the common mousetrap has been greatly improved, and their is a service that offers pet owners the ability to register once for a service that provides all the benefits that RecoverPets.Com provides, it is time to take the steps needed to ensure that our family pets will be returned if they should ever become lost. To get more information on the services provided by this company, all a pet owner has to do is log-on to their website at: http://www.recoverypets.com.

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com and they specialize in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number. For more information visit http://www.recoverypets.com

Healthy Diet for Your Parrot

Is your bird a seed only eater? Did you know in that wild seeds form only a small portion of the natural diet? While seeds are an important part of a pet parrot’s daily diet they should not comprise all of it.

Parrots are opportunistic omnivores, which in plain English means they eat whatever they encounter in their day (“opportunistic”) and, like us, eat from all the food groups â€" veggies & fruits, grain, and animal protein (“omnivores”).

The seed based diets that have traditionally been fed to pet birds are not representative of that parrots eat in the wild. Little is actually known about exactly what comprises their daily diet, but their natural diet does include a variety of things like seeds, nuts, fruits, shoots, buds, corms, and invertebrates (insects, worms, and larvae). Wild parrots have even been observed eating dead fish that wash up from lakes and streams. Because some of the plant material they eat also contains toxins, parrots in South America flock to natural mineral beds regularly to feed on the clay and minerals available in order to detoxify their systems.

We do know that a seed only diet generally cuts your pet’s potential lifespan in half, as well as leading to deficiencies in vitamins, especially vitamin A, minerals, especially calcium and protein. They also tend to be too high in fat.

While formulated diets (aka pellets) are now becoming widely used, they also do not comprise a complete diet and can lead to health problems if used exclusively, especially with the kidneys and liver. Formulated diets were originally based on research done in the poultry industry, where the focus is on rapid growth and maximum size, not longevity. While they’ve come a long way, and like seeds, form an important part of a complete diet, they can not do it alone. What’s important for your bird’s health and happiness is variety, balance, and moderation. Veggies, whole grains, and some fruit should form the basis of a well fed bird’s daily diet.

A parrot’s “job” in the wild is to spend the day searching for food, then working to access it. Nuts are a prime example, as getting to the nut meat involves removing not only the hard shell, but the fibrous outer husk as well. It’s important to give your pet a “job” and make her have to work a little for her goodies as well. Having to peel veggies and open nuts helps offset boredom. (Just be sure the veggies are organic and not contaminated with pesticides.)

Patience, creativity and common sense will work wonders in improving your parrot’s diet and overall health. The rewards are well worth the effort, resulting in a well feathered, bright-eyed, playful companion who can share your life for as long as possible.

Your Parrot Place
Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Consultant, (503) 771-BIRD. Marilu is a regular contributor to the Your Parrot Place Newsletter. YourParrotPlace.com - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

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How To Get Your Pet To Strike The Pose: Tips For Photographing Your Pet

If you have ever tried to take a picture of your dog, you will realize how hard it is to capture the pups full personality and beauty in a photograph. Dogs aren’t human, and they don’t understand what we are doing when we try to take their photo. They may think that the camera is a toy and charge at you, instead of striking a pose. If you follow these tips, and take your cues from your pet, you can be assured of great photos of your pet. Pets come in all colors. If your dog is dark, you will need to make sure that he doesn’t get lost in your photo due to a dark background. Dark animals photograph best with light colored or neutral back grounds. You can use white, grey, or creamy beige backdrops. You should never take a photo of a Black Lab, or a German Shepard, against a dark background. It conceals the true color of your dog, and the dark background can also conceal the true size, shape and proportions of your pet. The same rules apply with pets that have light coats. If you have an apricot or white puppy, you would not place her in front of a white wall for a picture. Photographs of animals need to capture the color and texture of their coats. If you have a white toy poodle, you would want to place her on, or in front of, a black, blue or brown backdrop. This will assure that the poodle’s springy white curls are the focus of the picture. It is important that you choose a background that compliments your dog, and doesn’t hide its beauty. The hardest thing to do is to get your pet to sit still for a photo. The best time to arrange a photo session with your pet is when they are tired, or sleepy. One trick is to lay the correct color of sheet or blanket over your couch or chair. Allow your pet to lie there after he has had a good half hour of vigorous play. Once your dog appears to start dozing off, get its attention by a low whistle, a squeak from a squeaky toy, or the sight of a treat. The animal will perk up immediately and appear to be wide awake. It is important that you are ready to snap the shots immediately. For a larger dog you can drape its bed with the correct color of sheet or blanket. It is also best to take your pet’s picture when they are well fed. That way they are not distracted by wanting food while they are modeling for you. The treats you hold up will be more a curiosity item to them, instead of a hopeful dinner. In professional animal pictures, usually the full body of the animal is shown. This allows the viewer to get a general idea of the size and proportions of the animal. It also will allow the viewer to get an idea of the animal’s general health and appearance. You wouldn’t want to have just a head shot of your pet if it had unique colorings that made it cute. Some animals appear to be wearing little white socks on their paws, or the ends of their tails may appear to have been dipped in a paint bucket. Be sure that your picture captures all of the unique things about your entire dog. However, if your dog just has an irresistible face, you can take head shots. Some pets will appear to smile when they are very happy. Nothing says “love me” like an innocent puppy face. You need to be conscious of the background. Even if the color is right, if it’s cluttered it will be distracting and take away from the pet. It is also important to make sure that your pet is in the center of the shot, and that it is not cropped off just before the tip of the ears, or tail. When you are taking photos of your pets, it is important that you are at least at the animals eye level, or below. This gives the picture the sense of being from the dog’s viewpoint. You can accomplish this by elevating your dog to a higher position, like the stair case, or furniture. Or, you can lay on your stomach to achieve the same results. You need to zoom in as close as possible, while still capturing the entire body of your dog. You can edit out any red eye, later. It is best to use a digital camera when you are photographing animals. With digital cameras you are not out any extra money for the photos that didn’t take because Spot looked away. With a digital camera you are free to take as many pictures of your animal as you like, so snap away. You can choose the best ones later, and delete the rest. You have more freedom with a digital camera. You are not constrained to just a set number of pictures, and you do not have to sit and wonder if they worked while they are getting developed. If you plan to take pictures of your pet outside, it is best to do this early in the morning, or late in the evening. The natural lighting is better for photographs during these periods of the day. You still need to keep in mind the color choices of your background. You can take a picture of your black puppy sitting on a white patio, or in front of your home if you have light colored siding, or brick. You can take a picture of your white dog in a flower bed that has black mulch, or sitting in front of a dark brick wall. Most animals can obey the command of sitting. Some animals will even sit if they have a leash on, even if it is not being held. Outdoor, natural lighting works the best when you want to show the texture of your animal’s coat. The expression of your dog is one of the most important things you need to keep in mind when you are photographing your animal. If your animal is ill, or having a bad day, you may want to reschedule your photo session to a later time. A wet and moist looking nose is a must in all pet photos. If your pet is feeling unwell, they probably aren’t up for their photo being taken. If your breed of pet should have perky ears, and they are laying down because the pet is not as cheery as usual, you should postpone your picture taking, as well. You should never take a picture of your pet if they have runny eyes due to an infection. Wait until your pet is doctored and feeling more like their cheery, upbeat self. You can take action shots of your pet. Does your pet like to catch frisbee’s or herd sheep? To capture your pet in action you must learn what photographers term “panning.” The key to panning is to follow along with your pet as they are moving. You need to click away capturing them throughout their activity. You can choose a film that is made for action shots to get good results. You know your pet and what excites them. Does your pet like to stand on two feet and beg for a certain toy, or treat? If so, then get someone to assist you during this photo. They can interact with the dog while you snap the pictures. These shots are great ways of showing the personality of your dog. Does your dog like to tilt its head when it hears a certain noise? Then be ready to capture their photo while your assistant provides the noise. Does your dog like to hide in the shrubs, or get playful with a ball? You can also capture these types of photos if you are tuned in and ready with your camera. Photographs are a great way of preserving the beauty and personality of an animal. Just keep in mind back ground color, and try to photograph your pet for still shots when they are well fed and somewhat sleepy. If you photograph outside, try to arrange your photo time in the morning or late evening hours, and don’t take their pictures directly facing the sun. Make sure your pet is feeling physically well so that their personality can be captured, and if you use a digital camera you won’t have to worry about wasting film. If you take action shots, practice the panning technique. If your pet performs tricks, enlist the aid of a helper and photograph your animal performing. Photographs will be around forever, and if you do them correctly they can reveal a lot about your pet. Take your cues from your animal and you will have wonderful photographs every time.

Dog Grooming - Brushing and Bathing

Dog grooming is the basis for preventive health care for your dog and puppy. It gives you a chance to see small changes in and on your dog's body that could lead to health concerns such as a lump or problems in his ears or with his teeth. Dog grooming can be a time of further bonding with your dog. This is some serious one on one time when he gets loads of your attention. So what do you do and when do you start grooming your dog and puppy? As with most things with your puppy, you need to introduce him to dog grooming slowly and help him be comfortable with it. Start with short sessions of about five minutes and work up to the whole routine as he adjusts. Begin with brushing and combing. There are several different grooming tools used for brushing and which you use depends upon the breed of your dog and the type of coat he has. Ask the breeder you got your puppy from for the proper techniques. Brushing should be done before you bathe your dog or puppy. Bathing your puppy should begin when he is about 14 weeks old or sooner if he is a very dirty dog. Most dogs should need bathing only once a month unless he gets dirty. Wherever you decide to bathe your dog, bathtub, sink or some type of tub, place a rubber mat within to give him something secure to stand on so he won't slip around. Soak down his body but not his face. Keep water out of his ears. You may wish to block his ear canals with cotton balls to prevent the water from getting into his ears. Lather up your wet dog with a dog shampoo. Rinse well. Any leftover shampoo in his coat is likely to cause dryness or skin irritation. Wipe his face off with a damp cloth. Squeeze off the excess water and then towel dry your dog. Complete the drying process with either a hair dryer set on warm, not hot, or by leaving him in a warm room until dry. Be aware that a dog will shake just as soon as you release him. This is why some people want to run their dog outside quickly after a bath on a leash to prevent him from rolling and getting dirty again. If this is not an option, such as in winter, you may wish to consider a professional groomer. A professional groomer may be a consideration for some of the more difficult haircuts and dog grooming considerations such as the stripping required by some wire-haired breeds. This depends upon your ability to do the required tasks and your desire to do them as well. copyright 2005. Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Ragdoll Cats - An Unusual Cat Breed

The Ragdoll cat breed has an unusual history. According to one story, aliens brought this cat here; a cat that gets its name from the way it goes limp like a Ragdoll when you pick one up.

The Ragdoll cat breed originated in Riverside, California in the 1960s; the breed was founded by an eccentric woman named Ann Baker. The very first Ragdoll cat was a Persian-Birman mix named Josephine. Ragdoll cats come in a variety of colors today, including blue, bicolor, color point, torte, mink, and lynx.

The Ragdoll cat is the largest breed of domestic cat; males can weigh in over twenty pounds when fully mature. Ragdolls are registered by all of the major cat associations and recognized as a purebred cat.

Ragdoll cats are easy going and best known for their characteristic limpness when held. They have medium longhair coats and shed very little for having coats of this length. Ragdolls are very low maintenance cats; they have silky rabbit like fur and do most of their grooming themselves. Because of their size, Ragdoll cats tend to be slightly clumsy; these cats do not typically make good mousers, they are just too laid back to care about mice. Many Ragdoll cats exhibit dog-like behaviors; for example, this breed will run to the door to greet you upon returning home.

Part of what makes this cat so unusual are the stories Ann Baker told about its origins. On one account Ann Baker claimed here new breed of cat was brought here by aliens; another account states the breed was genetically engineered by the government.

Alien or government conspiracy aside, the Ragdoll has quickly become one of the most popular breeds of cat available today.

Ben Harper is a Ragdoll cat enthusiast and founder of the site Ragdoll Cats which was established to promote the Ragdoll cat breed. To learn more about this unusual cat visit: http://www.ragdollcats.info

Practical Advice for Adopting a Dog

If you are thinking of adding a dog to your family, consider adopting your new best friend from an animal shelter or humane society. You'll not only get a good feeling from helping a homeless pet, you'll get an outstanding companion. Many fantastic dogs end up in shelters through life circumstances that have happened with their original owners, and the staff at these organizations carefully check the animals for sound health and good temperament. In addition, some shelter animals have had the benefit of training to develop good manners while they've been waiting for a new home.

You can find just about any age, size and breed of dog at an animal shelter. From entire litters of puppies, to young dogs, to older housebroken dogs too.

When a new dog first arrives, shelter staff carefully evaluate it for physical and behavioral soundness. They make note of quirks, and work with specialists to eliminate negative behaviors. Most shelters even have adoption counselors who interview potential adopters to understand their needs and lifestyle so they can make the perfect match.

Bringing your newly adopted dog home is exciting for you, but may be a little overwhelming for her. Keep her on a leash as you take her from room to room, giving her plenty of opportunity to sniff. It's a good idea to make your first stop on this tour a stop at the dog's bathroom area. The excitement of a car ride and coming to a new place can give her the need to empty her bowels or bladder.

It's important to understand that Dogs are creatures of habit. So the sooner you establish a firm routine, the more comfortable your new dog will become in her new home. Always feed her in the same spot and at about the same time each morning. You'll find she grows to anticipate "what comes next." For example, if you always feed her after you bring in the newspaper, you'll notice she becomes very excited when you open the door to step outside. Dogs catch on quickly.

Related information and resources for this article can be found at: http://www.mypetanimals.com/articles/200506/adopting-a-dog/

© 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard. This article is provided courtesy of The Pets & Animals Shopping Network. You may publish it at no cost, as long as the links are left intact, made live, and this notice stays in place.

Shih Tzu Grooming Is Art, Skill, Trade And A Profession

Shih Tzu grooming can be compared to human beauty culture because it is the beautification of the Shih Tzu breed. The art of Shih Tzu grooming is aimed at creating a reasonable facsimile of a normal specimen of the Shih Tzu breed. The attendance of Shih Tzu American Kennel Club dog shows is an excellent place to observe first hand the best specimens of the Shih Tzu breed. There are basic steps applicable to grooming the Shih Tzu as well as all breeds of dogs. Anyone interested in becoming a complete dog grooming artist, should know how to make all breeds beautiful. A Shih Tzu grooming artist professional should know how best to enhance the appearance of each breed of dog. However, if the Shih Tzu is your favorite breed, one can become known as an "expert" in grooming the Shih Tzu. A professional Shih Tzu groomer understands that certain breeds, like Poodles, most Terriers and Spaniels, and the Shih Tzu require far more time and skill to groom than smooth-haired breeds, in which only a knowledge of the fundamentals is required. History of dog grooming: The dog, including the Shih Tzu, has been the closest animal to the human family. Grooming dogs was the fashion of the aristocracy during the 19th Century. The art flourished during the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI of France. The Poodle, however, and not the Shih Tzu, was the favorite breed. Grooming was largely confined to the Poodle. The first recorded grooming parlors were established in France about this same time. The Shih Tzu has become so much an integral part of the family that going to the canine beautician is as much a ritual for the family Shih Tzu as going to the hairdresser is for the lady of the house. Shih Tzu and dog styling in general has also become so professional and sophisticated that Shih Tzu owners have become as selective about their Shih Tzu's groomer as they are about their own hair stylist. Origin of the clips: Since the art of dog grooming flourished during the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI of France and the Poodle, instead of our beloved Shih Tzu, was the favorite breed in France, the Poodle breed became known as the French Poodle. The first Poodles were water dogs and retrievers. The clip most suitable to them resembled what is known today as the "Continental clip." A mane of hair was left on the foreparts while the back and hindquarters were shaven. This clip made the Poodle resemble a lion, and therefore the clip became known in England as the "Lion clip." The American fancy made some variations in the "Lion clip" and began to call it the "Saddle clip." The English Saddle clip calls for the greatest skill in the art of dog grooming. It is not clear from historical records just when the "pet clips" originated. Often now we hear of a "Puppy Cut" for our Shih Tzu, which is a very popular style for a family pet Shih Tzu. However, for the show ring, there is much, much more to grooming our beloved Shih Tzu.

Cat Litter Box Location Strategies

Just like in real estate where location is crucial, so it is for your cat's litter boxes.

Here's some ideas and tips on how to effectively locate them for good cat litter box habits.

When you think about cat litter box placement, imagine if it's a place where you'd like to do your business. We humans generally cherish a quiet and private location. Your cat isn't much different. She'd like her cat litter boxes placed where she can feel safe while voiding. When animals eliminate, this is a vulnerable time for them, and if your cat doesn't feel safe and comfortable, she'll find her own location to fulfill this need.

Depending upon the cat's age and mobility, an ideal litter box location is someplace where humans don't tread constantly. Take a look around your house and think about this as you ponder locations. Some ideal places are your basement, rarely-used bathrooms, and larger closets.

If you have a room that doesn't get much traffic and won't let the odors waft all through the house, then set up a litter box in that location.

If a family member's bedroom will work (assuming that person won't be jarred awake at 3 AM when kitty is busy digging a hole to China to bury her output!), use that as well.

Many cats prefer to have a cat litter box near their favorite "hang outs." This way, they don't have to go far when nature calls.

The most desirable location will be quiet, somewhat secluded, and afford kitty the luxury of time and the feeling of safety to properly eliminate in her cat litter box.

Sometimes your cat will decide a location for you. In my home, my kitty Scout prefers the cat litter box in the exercise room in lieu of the one in the basement (which would be my first choice) and another in a nook off the kitchen.

But she doesn't like those locations as well, so it's critical that I keep that cat litter box up to her standards - clean, no deposits left over from her brother JJ, and leaving the door open - even when I'm using the exercise bike or the cross trainer! If I forget any of these things, she lets me in the most direct way possible - by not using a litter box when she needs to eliminate.

If there was ever a case where cats have staffers and hired help, I'm living proof! So take a hint from your cat...try to accomodate her preferred location for successful, consistent cat litter box usage.

Nancy solved the cat urine odor problem in her home, and kept the cat that caused it. Read "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" to discover your solution.

Click Here to find out more

Flea Control

Fleas are the most common external parasite of companion animals. Flea allergy dermatitis is the most common skin disease of dogs and cats! Flea control has always been a challenge for veterinarians and pet owners because the adult fleas cause the clinical signs, yet the majority of the flea population (eggs, larvae and pupae) are to be found off the pet in and around the home. The ideal flea control program utilizes products that target the various stages of the flea life cycle, not only the adult fleas on the pet. In order to help you to select the most appropriate products to achieve a flea-free existence for an allergic pet, we will start by telling you about the life cycle of the flea. The Life Cycle of the Flea Ctenocephalides felis Eggs are laid in the hair coat and are designed to fall off the host. They are resistant to insecticides, but susceptible to various insect growth regulators. Larvae develop in the host's environment and feed on adult flea feces (blood) that fall out of the hair coat of the pet. Larvae are susceptible to traditional insecticides, borates and insect growth regulators. Larvae eventually spin cocoons (often within carpet fibers) for pupation. Pupae are resistant to freezing, desiccation, and insecticides. Pupae can lie dormant for many months; they are stimulated to expupate as emergent adults by vibration, warming and increased carbon dioxide. Normally, expupation occurs when a host is near and the new flea finds the pet within seconds of emergence. Emergent fleas are fairly mobile and can survive a few days without a host, if in a suitable environment. New fleas begin feeding within hours of finding a dog or cat. Once a blood meal has been taken, the flea can survive only a short time if it is dislodged from the host. New fleas experience very high mortality on healthy adult hosts. Most fleas do not survive 72 hours on an animal that is itching and able to groom itself. Unfortunately, limited egg production does occur even on allergic animals. The entire life cycle of C. felis can be completed in as few as 16 days! Flea Control Recommendations For the flea allergic patient 100% flea control is required to remain symptom-free. Even very minimal exposure may be sufficient to perpetuate itching in a hypersensitive patient (one or 2 bites per week are enough!). Until very recently, veterinarians and pet owners have had to control fleas by treating the environment of the animal for the immature stages of the flea. This approach, although effective when properly instituted, is labor intensive and requires frequent repetitive applications. Application of adulticides on the animal has merely been of palliative value. The safe insecticides previously available to us did not kill fleas instantly or were not long-lasting enough to ensure adequate protection from flea bites. The female flea survived long enough to lay a few eggs and perpetuate the life cycle. Today's Flea Control Products Recently, some new products have been added to our flea control arsenal. These appear to be highly efficacious, long lasting and have a very low potential of harmful side effects. It may well be that these promising products will revolutionize flea control in the United States. Program® And Sentinel® (Lufenuron) from Novartis This is available as a once a month pill or oral liquid suspension to be given with a full meal. These are prescription drugs. Adult fleas that feed on animals treated with lufenuron produce sterile eggs. The product does not kill adult fleas. It is a very easy way to break the life cycle but pets remain fully susceptible to the emergence of any fleas from pupa already present in the environment. Therefore, 4 to 7 months may pass before the flea-free state is reached. In order to stop the life cycle, every animal in the patient's environment must receive lufenuron. Pets should be sprayed for fleas with an adulticide during the first few weeks of starting Program®. Nylar® (Pyriproxifen) This is a new insect growth regulator that is extremely effective against flea eggs. It remains 100% effective for 150 days after a single spray application! It is an excellent option in cases when Program® may be too expensive because of a multiple pet household or in situations where Program® is ineffective. It is presently available as a spray-on and as a drip-on in combination with permethrin for dogs and a spray with pyrethrins for cats and also as Nylar flea control collars for dogs and cats. Environmental foggers and sprays are also being marketed. Traditional Insecticides Several adulticides insecticides or shampoos can be used along with Program® or Nylar®. Shampoos are considered inferior to sprays, dips or drip-ons because they have little to no residual activity. For cats, pyrethrins as sprays or foaming mousses are useful. Examples include Mycodex Fast Act® and Fast Act 2® (these products have a reduced level of alcohol which is much more easily tolerated by cats). For dogs, permethrin sprays are recommended. Over-the-counter Hartz Mt®. produces with phenothrin can be used with some caution in cats. Advantage® (Imidacloprid) from Bayer This is marketed as a drip-on for both dogs and cats. Advantage® seems to be very well-tolerated by sensitive cats. It provides flea knockdown in 24 hours. For cats, 100% killing can be maintained for 21 days; for dogs 90% for 28 days. It is susceptible to wash off, therefore outdoor active dogs and dogs that swim or must be bathed because of dermatitis must be re-treated frequently. (Weekly re-treatment is allowed.) Imidacloprid has no efficacy against ticks, but K-9Advantix®, with permethrin does. K9 Advantix is only labeled for once a month, and is ONLY FOR DOGS.. Frontline® Spray, Frontline Plus® And Frontline Top Spot® (Fipronil) from Merial Fipronil is a broad spectrum insecticide available as a spray or a drip-on. Fipronil binds chemically to the hair and is absorbed through the hair follicle by the sebaceous glands. In spray formulation fipronil kills fleas at 95% for over 80 days after application on dogs and for 1 month with biweekly bathing. It is labeled for puppies and kittens of 8 weeks (10 weeks for Top Spot®) and the product is not washed off by bathing. It is also affective against ticks. The major problem with the spray is the high volume of alcohol-based product that must be applied. Many cats will show minor adverse reactions with this application technique. The product must be applied no more than once a month. Frontline Plus® contains the insect growth regulator, S-methoprene and so provides control of eggs and adult fleas. Revolution® Selamectin From Pfizer This product is designed as a once-a-month heartworm preventive and flea preventive for dogs and cats as young as 6 weeks old. It also kills adult fleas and can be used to treat sarcoptic mange, ear mites and ticks. It also helps control roundworms and hookworms in cats. The product is placed on the skin at the back of the neck, but is absorbed into the body to have its effect when female fleas ingest it with a blood meal. Adult fleas will die slowly, but more importantly, any eggs laid prior to death will never develop. It is most useful as a preventive for flea infestation and in the presence of a flea problem in an allergic pet, other insecticide treatment will be recommended at first. It is a prescription drug. Capstar® (Nitenpyram) from Novartis This is a an oral tablet for dogs and cats as young as 4 weeks of age. It offers extremely rapid and complete killing of adult fleas on the pets after administration. It is safe enough that the tablets may be used as needed, as often as once per day, whenever you see fleas on your pet. This is designed to be used in combination with an insect growth regulator to knock out fleas when these slower products are being used for long-term control It can also be used when the pet has visited a flea-infested environment for rapid protection. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.