The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

The Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers are terriers which carry more than the typical terrier behaviors in their ancestry. They are dogs which performed well as hunting dogs, retrievers, guards of the farm and house and simply as a companion during the history of the breed, which originated in the country of Ireland. In the days when the Wheaten terrier was admitted into the Irish Kennel club, the requirements for attaining a championship title included requirements to perform in the area of "expertise" for which the dog was supposed to function.

In the terrier competition, the dog had to "go to ground" and perform in field trials against rat, rabbit and badger. The Wheaten did well in these areas and was admitted into the Irish Kennel Club as a Terrier in 1937. By 1943 the Wheaten was admitted into the Kennel Club of Great Britain and the first Wheatens were believed to have arrived on the shores of the United States in 1946. The entry of the breed into the American Kennel club in the Terrier group occurred in 1973. The breed has gradually gained in popularity and now there are always more than 200 Wheatens shown at the annual All Terrier Show held in Montgomery County in Pennsylvania.

The Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier has a long single coat which as the name denotes is soft and wheat colored. It requires almost daily brushings as it is a fine coat which "fuzzes" easily. When they are born they are a dark apricot in color and the tone gradually lightens to a golden wheat coloring as adults. The Wheaten is a moderately sized dog, 17-18 inches at the shoulder, weighing 35 to 45 pounds. The dog's eyes are usually well hidden under a "fall" of hair off the eyebrows and the ears are folded over at the top of the skull, while the tail is docked.

The Wheaten is prone to developing disorders of the eye and the colon and these things should be tested for if the dog is to be used for breeding. It is important that buyers purchase their puppy from a reputable breeder, preferably a person who belongs to a breed club or a local kennel club, since these organizations do their best to prevent "puppy milll breeders" from becoming members. Usually clubs of that nature require that breeders sign "code of ethical behavior" which prevents sale of dogs without a written contract and health guarantee.

The Soft Coated Wheaten is a gentle dog that makes a great family companion dog. He shows little aggression to other breeds and is gentle with children and the elderly. He does a good job of protecting his home territory without acting overly aggressive. The wheaten makes a good therapy dog, being of the right height for disabled people to pet him from their wheelchairs.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Some Things To Consider Before Breeding Your Dog

Breeding dogs can be one of the most rewarding things you can do. Of course it's not as simple as deciding to breed and starting. There are some important things you need to ask, and honestly answer before you can breed with a clear conscience.
With so many unwanted puppies you need to be sure you can find good homes for all the puppies. There are far too many unwanted pets in the world. If you are wanting to breed because you feel you have a lot of time, resources and love to give - rather consider adopting one of the many millions of homeless pets and giving your love in this way.

You will need to have your bitch thoroughly checked by the veterinarian before thinking about allowing your bitch to become pregnant. Lingering and chronic medical conditions must be identified and sorted out before pregnancy. If something is found that would indicate that pregnancy is dangerous for your bitch (for example Daschunds have severe back problems which can be exacerbated by pregnancy) the problem needs to be sorted out.

While at the vet you will also need to ask many questions. Doing your homework helps here too - if you are going to do this there are a great deal of things you will need to know about. And many unforeseen circumstances you might find yourself in. You must know a great deal about all aspects of your bitches reproduction before you go ahead.

Caring for puppies also takes significant resources. You will need to commit to a great deal of extra time on your part. Caring for a pregnant, whelping and lactating bitch is time consuming enough, not to mention caring for the puppies.

Financially you will need to prepare for the added veterinarian costs, both for your bitch and the necessary vaccines for the puppies. If you cannot afford the medical costs then under no circumstances should you breed with your bitch.

A litter can be as large as 12 puppies which will place an enormous financial strain on you. Unless both dogs are of very good breeding you might not see any return on your investment.

Emotionally the process can also have its ups and downs for you and your family. Are you prepared for the possibility of sick, deformed or even dead puppies? How will your children react? How will you deal with these kinds of issues?

Examine your motives carefully. Don't breed because you think you will be able to make some profit for yourself. This is both false and selfish. Don’t' breed only because you think it will be a joyous experience for your children. If something goes wrong it won't be quite as joyful. Lastly if you are clinging to false fantasies about cute puppies and no other work then think again.

Remember - every puppy you create is your responsibility and that can be quite a monumental thing. This means if owners of the puppies cannot care for them anymore you will need to take them back.

It's hard, messy work and there is an endless list of things that can go wrong.

This said, allowing your bitch to mate can be a very rewarding experience. If you are sure you have considered all the aspects, are well read and sure you have enough love, time and money to go round - then enjoy the experience. It's amazing to watch the miracle of life unfold before you. If you have children it will be both educational and memorable experience.

At its best; breeding should be a careful blend between science and art. Are you really prepared for all the responsibility that comes with breeding?

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

Do You Enjoy Watching Your Dog Wear Handmade Dog Scarf's Just To Suit Their Personality?

Yes! We love our wonderful and dear Pooches! We care for them so much that we love to dress them up in all sorts of dog clothing. Take for instance, a handmade Dog Scarf. These great looking little dog scarf's do come in all sorts of fun colors just to suit your dog's personality.

I was recently researching "dog clothing" on some of the more well known search engines. I was amazed at all of the many different things that we can clothe our dog's with. On one such search, I found tee shirts, dog scarf's, sweaters, jackets, coats and boots. There were designer sunsuit's, petjama's and playsuit's. Of course, not to mention your regular old "tuxedo and gown's" for the poochies who get married. How incredible! I was astounded at how some websites really cater to the dog's and their owners.

I personally have found that my two dogs love to get dressed up with lots of dog accessories that I make for them. I love to Crochet and create new things all the time for my two dogs to play with. I have made dog blankets, dog scarf's, dog necklaces, dog ball's and fun loving dog toys. They can play to their hearts content.

It's a real joy to see how much your dog loves a new dog scarf or dog necklace. You can see it in their eyes and how they play and prance around. You know that you've made them one "happy pooch". They love all the attention that you give them and they play on that attention all day long! Enjoy your dog...they truly are a Woman's best friend.

© Copyright 2005 Krystine Lewis
http://www.free-dog-scarf.com

Krystine Lewis created a website geared toward " Handmade Pet Accessories, Dog Training, Free Crochet Patterns" and other material for your enjoyment. Visit her website to learn all the tips, tricks and resources she has available. http://www.free-dog-scarf.com

In Case of Disaster - Protect Your Pet!

Disasters often strike suddenly, while you are away from home. Everyone can benefit from having a household evacuation plan in place before a disaster happens. It is the best way to protect your family in case of a large-scale natural disaster or an emergency that causes you to temporarily evacuate your home. Every disaster plan must include your companion animals. You can improve your pet's chances for safety if you leave him/her inside, with collars and identification tags, when you go out. Consider an arrangement with a neighbor who would be willing to evacuate your pets in your absence. Make sure that person knows your animals, can locate your emergency supplies, has a key to your house, and has your phone numbers and instructions on how to reach you. IF YOU EVACUATE, TAKE YOUR PET! Your animal's best protection is to be with you. However, evacuation shelters generally do not accept animals for public health and safety reasons, so plan ahead and research the following options: Call hotels and motels in your immediate area and a reasonable distance from home to see if they will accept pets and under what conditions. Contact local boarding kennels and veterinary hospitals with boarding facilities. Ask friends and family members whether they will provide foster care for your pets. NOTE: Animal shelters will provide temporary foster care for owned pets in times of disaster, but this should be considered only as a last resort. IF YOU MUST LEAVE YOUR PET BEHIND.... Leaving your pet at home will place your animal at greater risk for injury or loss, so make every effort to take your pet with you. If you have no alternative but to leave your pet behind, take the following precautions: Never leave your pet tied outside! Place your pet in a safe, secure room without windows but with good ventilation, such as a bathroom. Leave enough food for at least three days and a sufficient supply of water. Place water in large containers that are not easily knocked over. If you expect flooding, provide access to elevated spaces or counters. Leave familiar bedding and safe toys. Place a notice on your front door advising what pets are in the house and where they can be located. Provide a telephone number where you or a contact person can be reached, as well as the name and phone number of your veterinarian. Make sure pets are wearing proper collars and identification tags. If your pet is diabetic, epileptic, or requires other carefully timed medication, obtain a medical alert tag for their collar. Do not confine dogs and cats in the same space. Keep small animals and birds safely caged. REMEMBER: Keep up to date identification on your pets at all times. Use a properly fitted collar with an identification tag. Have current color photographs of your pet, showing any distinguishing markings. Keep them with your emergency supplies. If your pet becomes lost, these photographs will help identify him/her. If you know disaster is imminent, bring your pets inside immediately. Get your animals under control as quickly as possible, either using a leash or a carrier. Make sure your pet's vaccines are up to date, including any vaccines required by kennels if you are planning to board for your pet. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

My Dog is Lost! What should I Do Now...

Your dog is lost. You are worried and clueless on how to get started to bring your lost dog home. Follow these tips here and I'm sure it will increase your chances of finding your lost dog. 1. Make sure that your dog is actually lost - Search your house and back yard completely first. Your dog might just be too distracted by his new found toy in the yard. 2. Search around your neighborhood. Most dogs don't usually wander off far from their house. 3. Use your voice - Call out his name when finding your lost dog. It is a more useful searching tool than your eyes. Dogs can hear a lot better than we do and the distance from which dogs can hear things is four times further than man. 4. Ask around during the search - Talk to people especially people walking their dog, because they are the group to be most concern and take notice with a wandering dog. 5. Alert your neighbors and people in your neighborhood that your dog is missing. You can put up poster at eye level and in areas where people frequent. You can also E-mail your friends to keep a "lookout" for your dog. 6. Put up or distribute useful information. A poster with a large "Lost Dog" and "Reward" heading might be most eyes catching. Also remember to include your dog's name, breed, color, distinct features (if any) and ways to contact you like your phone number. 7. Call local shelters and pet related places within a 100 miles radius of your house. Leave your contactable number with them so that they can reach you if your dog turns up. Visit these places if possible to pass them a poster of your lost dog so that it can reach out to more people. 8. Post lost dog ads on the internet - With the ever increase use of the net. A lot of people have found their pets through this avenue. You can start off with FidoFinder.com and TerrificPets.com. Find more lost pet ads posting site on the search engine - Key in 'find lost dog' or 'lost dog ads'. 9. Beware of money scams. There are people who are out to cheat you out of your money. Knowing that you are worried, it's easy for these people to take advantage of you in many different ways. Think logically and ask for advice if necessary before you give someone money to return your dog. 10. Don't give up easily. Dogs have been known to find their way back home after being lost for several months. Your dog might be just one of them! Before you lost your beloved dog, it's good to take measures to ensure that YOU can be located if your lost dog is found - An ID dog tag would usually be the most efficient and important form of ID for your dog.

RecoveryPets.Com vs. Other Pet Registration Services

For those pet owners who do not know what a pet registration service is, or the benefits they provide, this article will try to explain these services. Pet registration is how lost pets get returned to their owners, it as simple as that. The owner of a pet registers their pet with a service provider, and the owners contact information is available if the pet ever gets lost. Now, there are many companies that offer this type of service, and we will try to compare the services of RecoveryPets.Com with other companies that offer this type of service to find the one that provides the best benefits for its clients.

The goal of registration services is to provide a location where the finder of lost pets can go the get the contact information on the pets' owner. The majority of these services use the pets veterinary vaccine number or county pet tag license number to register the clients pet. But, with this type of registration the finder does not know where to go to find the owners contact information, because the registers information is not contained on those tags. Whereas RecoveryPets.Com provides a special pet tag with a unique identification number that the pet is registered under on the tag, and the web address to where the pet owners contact information is contained, by doing this the finder has immediate access to the pet owners contact information.

The next benefit provided by these companies is the ability to provide a description and photograph of the pet, so that it can be identified when found. All services give their clients the ability to list the pets description and post a current photograph, but RecoveryPets.Com also gives them free lifetime contact information updating. This feature is very important because contact information tends to change over time, and by providing free lifetime updating service, any time their contact information changes it can be updated immediately on the website.

Contact information is the reason that pet owners register their pets with these services, and having a large selection of ways to contact the owners is vital to the safe return of a lost pet. Registration services allow the client to list their contact information, but RecoveryPets.Com gives their client the option to register up to ten contact phone numbers or email addresses. One of the advantages to this type of information being displayed is that the client's home address is not displayed, and the pets unique id number is needed to access the phone and email address information, which provides security that protects the clients confidentiality.

The last topic discussed will cover the global recognition of the service. The only way a service provider will be able to benefit their clients is to have a one-stop source for everyday people, and rescue agencies or shelters to go to get information about the lost pets owner. This should include general marketing to the average consumer, and special efforts to make rescue agencies and shelter aware of the service the register provides. Pet registration services may be the greatest tool to help owners of lost pets recover their pet, but if the service does not provide a means to alert everyone that the pet is registered with their service, it defeats the purpose of the service.

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com and they specialize in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number. For more information visit http://www.recoverypets.com

How to Teach YOUR Cat to Use a Litter Box - Secrets to Litter Tray Success

Even the most dedicated cat lover has little patience with a cat that doesn't use its litter box. Yet, patience is the key to creating litter box success. A positive introduction when young, and simple housekeeping on your part will solve most problems.

Most cats instinctively use the litter box. However if you see your kitten crouching or sniffing in a corner lift her and place her in a litter tray - this is a sign of oncoming urination. If your kitten is not using the litter box you should place her in the box every morning.

It is important for your cat to be able to easily access the litter box. If you have a large home, put litter boxes in more than one place. If your house has many levels, make sure each floor is equipped with a litter box. As in real estate, location is crucial to your cat successfully using the litter box. The best spot offers your cat a certain amount of privacy, but not so out of the way that you forget to clean it. Some people put the litter box in a seldom-used closet. Be sure, however, to use a hard-rubber stop to keep the door, or install a pet door so your cat can go in and out whenever she wants.

If you need to move a litter tray you should move it by only a few feet at a time. If the cat stops using it you have probably moved it too far.

If your cat doesn't use her litter box study the situation carefully for the reason(s) why.

Some cats will avoid a "dirty" litter box. Scoop out feces and wet litter daily. Completely empty and replace the litter at least once a week. Don't be too generous with the litter; most cats prefer a shallow layer of about two inches.

If you have more than one cat, you need more than one litter box. Cats are very particular and won't eliminate in a "used" litter box. The general rule of thumb is to have one litter box per cat.

Location, location, location; sudden noises, or lack of privacy can scare a cat from using a litter box. Try moving it to a different spot.

Never punish your cat for having an accident. She won't make the connection unless you catch her in the act. Even then, punishment only creates fear of you, not a desire to change behavior. Use an enzyme-based cleaner to remove the smell of the accident. This will help prevent future soiling in that spot as the smell of urine will make the cat think its OK to go there.

If you notice that accidents happen in the same place over and over, try putting a litter box there. Perhaps your cat prefers this spot for reasons you'll never understand. If accidents tend to happen when your cat has free run of the house or while you are away, keep her confined to one room until you can watch her. Be sure to provide food, water, and that all-important litter box in whatever room you place her in. If your cat uses the litter box successfully for several years, then begins to have accidents, have your veterinarian examine her for a possible urinary tract or kidney infection.

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Traveling With Your Dog: Some Tips From The Road

We enjoy camping, and love to take our yellow lab, Kayla, along with us. With Illinois currently as our home base, we've taken her on trips as far away as California, Utah, New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona, and South Carolina for wonderful camping trips. Being prepared for road trips with your dog is very important. And in this article I'd like to share some of the things I've learned from our experiences. Before you hit the road: *There's nothing worse than loading up the car and heading off for a long-awaited family vacation, only to discover your carsick dog is throwing up all over the back seat sixty miles from home. So make sure your dog can handle long car trips well before you leave town. Take you your dog on several "practice runs" of varying time/distance, and if your dog does experience car sickness, consult your vet about possible remedies, or consider leaving your dog home. *Speaking of the vet, we get print-outs of all our of dog's most recent records to take with us on the road. We do this in case she has to visit a vet while we are away, and some kennels require them for short-term boarding and/or grooming. And we make sure she's up to date on all of her vaccinations. If one will expire while we are away, we make sure she gets it before we leave, even if it's early. *If you'll be staying in motels along the way, make sure you are familiar with chains that accept dogs in the room. Don't wait until you are tired from a long drive to start looking for a motel, because many won't allow pets, and you could be searching for quite a while. We do one of two things. Either we call ahead and reserve a room at a motel we know accepts pets. Or we plan to stay at a chain we know allows pets. Motel Six and Holiday Inn have pretty broad acceptance policies, as do many Super 8's and Day's Inn (though not all, so make sure you know which ones do). Some motels will allow pets on an individual basis. Just make sure you have travel guides, or have done internet searches, so that you are know where you will be welcome with your pet before you leave home. (For example, AAA guides list which motels allow pets, and there are many pet-travel websites that list them as well.) *If you'll be camping, make sure you know the rules for dogs in campgrounds before you arrive. Most private and public campgrounds will allow pets, but require them to be leashed at all times. We have discovered that National Parks allow leashed dogs in parking areas and paved walkways, but most won't allow them on hiking trails. Zion National Park has a 2 mile paved trail on which dogs are allowed, and they welcome in their campgrounds. Grand Canyon allows dogs on the paved "Rim" trail, but not on hikes down into the canyon. Bryce Canyon allows dogs, but only in cars on in parking areas. However, Red Rock Canyon in the Dixie National Forest, near Bryce, allows dogs not only in campgrounds, but also on all of their hiking trails (as long as they are leashed). My advice is to find out before you go by visiting web sites or calling ahead so that you aren't disappointed by the restrictions when you arrive. What to bring: *Kayla has her own "suitcase" - and whenever she sees us take it out of the closet, she knows we are about to take her on a trip (and she gets very excited). Here is what we keep in her bag: 1. A couple of towels (she's a lab, likes to swim wherever she sees water, so they are handy for drying her off, or if she has an unexpected accident, throws up, etc.). 2. Plenty of plastic grocery bags for picking up after her while on the road. One of the reasons pet owners are unwelcome in many places is because they don't pick up after their dogs in rest areas, motel lawns, campgrounds, etc. So make sure you always clean up after your dog. 3. A couple of filled water bottles and water dish. We offer Kayla water at every rest stop, and occasionally even on the road if she seems thirsty. Keep her hydrated. As much as dogs love to travel, it can also be stressful for them. 4. Individual baggies of food portions, if her mealtimes will occur on the road. We also include a few treats, to reward her for being such a good girl in the car. 5. Chew toys/balls: Kayla doesn't usually like to chew things while we are driving, but some dogs do, and it helps alleviate boredom. 6. We also bring wet wipes and paper towels, in case of any spillage or accidents. 7. Bringing a dog bed of some sort is helpful because motels don't like dogs on the beds. If your dog uses their bed regularly at home, it also brings something familiar along with them. If it will fit, you might put it on the seat where the dog will ride as well. The familiar scent is comforting, and offers more comfortable ride for the dog. *In addition to the items we bring in Kayla's suitcase, we keep her medical records in a safe place. *Some dogs get pretty excited when traveling, and are hard to restrain. This can cause dangerous situations for drivers. If your dog has a hard time sitting still during the trip, you might consider a dog harness which attaches to seat belts. There are many out there, and make the trip safer for you, and more comfortable for the dog (like when you make those sudden stops or turns that throw the dog onto the floor). While on the road: *Frequent stops: We try to stop every couple of hours at a rest stop. Normally Kayla doesn't need to go potty that often at home, but being in the car for long stretches can be stressful and/or boring for a dog. So we stop more frequently to let her get out and stretch her legs. She LOVES rests stops (all those new smells) and sniffs every blade of grass she can. We find it is good for us as well, because when we travel without her, we stop very rarely. But with Kayla, we find our travel experience more enjoyable because we get to take a break from driving and stretch our legs too. Just remember to always pick up after your dog. It's the right thing to do, and in some places, it's the law. *We don't let Kayla stick her head out the window when we are driving, particularly at high speeds. As much as dogs love doing this, it can be harmful for them. Objects flying through the air may strike their faces and do damage to eyes and ears. When we do open the window to let her hang her head out, we do so only at lower speeds. *Never leave your pet alone in your motel room. It's against motel policy, and if a dog destroys objects in a room, you have to pay for them. In addition, if a barking dog annoys other guests, you may be asked to leave. If a motel has several problems with pets, they may change their pet policy, so for your sake and other pet lovers, always stay with your dog. *On a warm or hot days, we try to never leave Kayla in our parked car for long periods of time. On the rare occasions that it's unavoidable, we try to find shade and leave the windows cracked, and get back as soon as possible. Most of the time we can avoid leaving her alone by splitting up to do shopping and other errands, always leaving one of us with her. *Related to the suggestion above, we tend to eat "on the road." We get fast food or other take-out food while driving, and eat it in the car so as not to leave Kayla unattended for long periods. If we do go in to eat at a restaurant, we try to go after dark, when the sun is down, and leave the window cracked. Then one of us checks on her every half hour or so (particularly when it's very hot) and makes sure she has water and is doing okay. Traveling in the cooler months makes this less necessary - but if your dog is a barker it can quickly become a nuisance to other patrons, so be respectful of them. Other general suggestions: *The reality is that sometimes while on the road, we like to visit places Kayla isn't allowed. So rather than leave her alone at camp or in the car, what we do is check around at local kennels for day boarding possibilities, or even overnight boarding. For instance, we spent a day at Disneyland a few years ago, and for $10, she was boarded at the Disney Kennels for the day (she even got a certificate after her stay). On a rafting trip in Colorado, we found another day kennel nearby where we could leave her. And for an evening excursion, we know we can leave her overnight. Sure she'll miss us, and we'll miss her. But she'll be safe and well cared for, which is what is most important. (Be prepared that this is where you may need a copy of her medical records - and make sure her Bordetella (Kennel Cough) Vaccine is up to date.) *Be patient with your pet. Traveling is an exciting experience for them, but can also be stressful because you are removing them from their regular routine. Just like children, they may not behave as they normally do at home. Kayla tends to bark at anyone who wanders near our campground, and is hard to handle on her leash when we get anywhere near a river. Be calm and consistent with your dog, understanding that this is a new situation for them. And if it seems to be causing more problems for you and your dog than it's worth, you may have to consider leaving your pet at home in the future. Hopefully that won't happen - but if it's what is best for your beloved dog, then you do have to keep it under consideration. These are just a few suggestions I have from several trips with our dog, Kayla. It certainly isn't exhaustive, and I may add things as they occur to me or I experience them in future travels. But I hope the suggestions are helpful for you as you consider traveling with you dog.

"What I learned from a Cocker Spaniel"

ÂÿÂÿÂÿAbout twelve years ago I went to a dog grooming expo in San Bernardino California. At the time I had been grooming for a few years and thought I knew lots. I remember watching the scissoring competition. One of the entries later became a team member of Groom USA. The whole experience humbled me and helped me strive to be better at my art. ÂÿÂÿÂÿThen one of the judges for the competition gave a lecture on grooming the Cocker Spaniel. At first I was only mildly interested. She began her lecture with "Most people don't really understand the Cocker Spaniel". She went on to say that Cocker Spaniels were "sensitive dogs". A Cocker was a dog who's feelings were hurt easily. While she was giving this lecture she had her own Cocker Spaniel on the grooming table, let us call her, Buffy. The woman began demonstrating how to groom Buffy. I still was not ready to buy into this whole "sensitive" thing. That was because before the lecture, Buffy was being walked through the crowd up to the lecturing platform. Two different audience members tried to pet Buffy as she walked to the front. Buffy let out a yelp, a snap and a little tinkle each time. ÂÿÂÿÂÿWhile this woman groomed Buffy, I noticed that the dog stood very proudly, cooperating at every step of the grooming. When the woman would start to turn Buffy around the dog would immediately turn around for her. Then Buffy would be quietly praised by her owner and she would stand straighter and more proud. This is where I started to think that maybe this woman had something with her whole "sensitive" thing. ÂÿÂÿÂÿWell wouldn't you know it...first dog scheduled on Monday was a Cocker Spaniel. We referred to her as "the brat". The honest truth was that if a dog came in with an attitude I would just groom them. I Didn't take their attitudes personally, just did my job to the best of my ability. The "good" dogs got the pats, the praise and the added attention. ÂÿÂÿÂÿOn this Monday I decided to groom her differently. Whenever she did any small thing well, I praised her. If she waited a second before she growled at me for picking up her foot I would tell her how brave she was. Slowly I noticed a change in her that day. Although she was still a brat she seemed to want to be good. Her patients with me seemed a little longer. When I finished grooming her I actually saw her tail wiggle. I told her how good she had been and how brave she was, it wiggled even more. I realized that there was a "good" dog in there and it was too sensitive to trust just yet. ÂÿÂÿÂÿThat day changed my whole outlook in regards to my work. I realized that positive reinforcement was my best grooming tool. From then on, no matter how busy my shop was I tried to give each dog a little added attention. After a time I was amazed at how many dogs that would normally wear muzzles during the grooming would later graduate to never having to wear them. I began getting more and more dogs that were being referred to me because no other dog grooming shop in the area would groom them. Although not all of the dogs got over their little quirks, many of them became more trusting and more cooperative. Praise and patience are the keys to cooperation. ÂÿÂÿÂÿDogs are similar to people. If you give them a chance, let them relax, and try not to initially judge and label them, you are sometimes surprised at what you learn.

Dog Grooming: Clipping the Nails

If the thought of clipping your dog's nails is frightening to you aren't alone. Most people prefer to ask their veterinarian to do this fiddly task. There's no reason why clipping your dogs nails should be a frightening task at all. There's no need to regard it as any different to giving your dog a bath.

Ideally you should start when your dog is young to get the dog used to having his feet handled regularly. Desensitizing your dog to having his paws handled will have a few other benefits too: it will make it easier for groomers or your vet to handle your dogs feet and will also mean if your dog is injured you will be able to examine his paws easier.

If it's your first time clipping a dogs nails it might be a good idea to watch someone else do it first. Ask your vet or the groomer if you can watch while they clip your dogs nails.

You will need a special pair of clippers for the purpose. Human clippers of scissors could tear the nail and cause painful torn edges. Make sure you get the right size and type of clippers for your dog. You might find a nail file useful too.

You will also want to have some special clotting powder on hand just in case you accidentally cut the nails too short and it starts bleeding. You can find all these products at your local pet supply store.

You will want to clip the nails in a quiet place with minimal distractions. If your dog has never had his nails clipped or is particularly resistant you might want to ask someone to help you. You are after all poking at your dog with a sharp object and it could be dangerous !

To avoid mishaps its best to slowly desensitize your dog to having his paws handled. this part should be easy. Take your dogs paws and massage them a bit.

It makes the process easier if the dogs nails are softer. You can do this by bathing the dog beforehand, massaging some baby oil into the paws or even just dipping the paw into warm water. This has the dual effect of both softening the paws and cleaning the dirt out from under the nails.

Examine the nails closely and try to locate the cluster of veins. This is called the 'quick' and cutting this can cause your dog to bleed. If your dog has dark nails this can be difficult. The best policy here is to trim the nails bit by bit over a longer period of time. The quick will retreat over time.

Try to cut with the right hand and hold the paw firmly. Use a calm soothing voice while you do this. You don't want your dog to become afraid and make the clipping more difficult. Try to cut at 90 degree angles.

If you do cut too far - don't worry! You can use some of the powder to stop the bleeding. Just sprinkle the powder over the affected area or dip the paw into the powder. There are some other household items you can use to slow the bleeding. You can use cornflower or normal powder in the same way you use the styptic powder. You can also press the dogs nail into some soap. If the bleeding is not too bad - just simply applying pressure should slow the bleeding.

If you have cut your dogs nails too far and they bleed - this may make the dog scared of the nail clipping all over again. You will need to desensitize your dog again.

If your dog is very afraid of having his nails clipped you should gradually get the dog used to the process and the tools. Start again by praising and treating the dog while you handle his paws. Then get the dog used to the clippers. Step by step desensitization coupled with positive reinforcement should ease your problem.

If you really can't get your dog to behave long enough for a nail clipping remember - most vets will do it for you. Don't be afraid to ask for help.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

Aquariums - The Different Kinds

There are many different types of aquariums. There is pretty much one for each level of enthusiast and not all aquariums are for fish. There are aquatic plant aquariums as well and they are very beautiful.

One of the simplest of aquariums is a fish bowl. A fish bowl can even be part of a table arrangement. When one chooses a fish bowl it should be a big one. At least a gallon. You'll also need a small net and two 1 gallon bottles of drinking water that is not distilled or de-ionized, as tap water isn't safe for your fish. Even if water is treated with water conditioners it still wouldn't be safe. You will also need some floating fish food. You will need to fill your fish bowl 2' form the top of the bowl. Then you will need to cover your bowl with a clean plastic cover. Sometimes a clean lid from a coffee can will do. You don't want your fish to jump out or another pet jumping in! You will need to replace about 20% of the water twice weekly and you can make your own bottled water by using the following method. Fill a bottle with tap water and leave about 2" of empty space at the top of the bottle. Add about five drops of water conditioner and then replace the cap tightly. You will need to let the bottle of water sit for at least three days before you use it for your fish.

There are also cool water aquariums. These aquariums sit at room temperature and do not require a heater. You need an aquarium and a cover. You should get an aquarium stand as well. You will need a five inch fish net, water conditioner and some food to feed your fish. . Make sure you read all the instructions from your aquarium and water conditioner. Make sure your aquarium is running for at least three days before you add any fish. Only add one fish at a time and wait for at least three weeks between fish. There is a maximum of one 1 foot fish per gallon. Don't overcrowd your fish.

A Warm Water Aquarium will require more skill to maintain than a cool water aquarium. You'll need an aquarium, an aquarium cover, an stand and a power filter with a BIO-Wheel. You'll also need a 5-inch fish net and a bottle of water conditioner as well as fish food, such as floating flake food and freeze dried blood worms.

One other type of aquarium is the betta fish vase. This has become increasingly popular. Often times buyers of a Betta Fish Vase have been told that the Betta can live by eating the lily roots, this is a mistake. The Betta will eat the roots, but only out of desperation and it will not be a healthy fish.

The Betta should be fed floating food that is labeled for Betta Fish and freeze dried blood worms, which are actually mosquito larvae. Betta Fish usually do much better in a large fish bowl than in a vase. So if you happen to receive one, your fish may be better off if moved to a bowl. Please think twice before offering one as a gift.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Aquariums

The Maremma: Alpine Sheep Herder

The Maremma Sheepdog is native to the Italian Alps. This is a breed that has an extraordinary capability of working in the higher altitudes. For many hundreds of years, the life of the sheep, the shepherds and the Maremma dog that guarded the flock was structured on the seasons. From June to October the flocks would be moved to the high country in the mountains of Abruzzi and from October to June they would go down to the plains and rolling pastures of Maremma. The job of the Maremma historically has been that of a livestock protector and herding dog, being of great value to the Italian peasants as they moved their flocks of mountain goats and sheep through the high alpine pastures, not only herding but also protecting the flock from predators. The Maremma has the capability of working independently as a flock protector and is noted for its high intelligence. A few of the dogs stayed behind as farm protectors and gradually the Maremma also became known as the large white dog who frequented the fine homes of Tuscany as a companion and watchdog.

The Maremma is a large white dog with profuse and abundant coat. One might confuse the dog with the Pyrenees or the Kuvasz, excerpt that the head of the Maremma is much larger in proportion to the body and in fact is very like that of the Polar bear, conical in shape and massive. In general, of the large white dogs that are the herding dogs of central Europe and the Alps, the Maremma is probably the breed that exhibits the most independent thinking and is one of the dogs considered to be a very protective dog, working in the dual role as flock guard and herder. The Maremma is a large breed, standing 24 inches at the withers, with a heavy coat that is all white with perhaps a shade of ivory or biscuit on the ears. The coat needs to be regularly groomed. The correct coat should be weather resistant, providing protection from the sun and the cold, this is a dog that should not be shaved.

The Maremma has always been around people, though its existence has been solitary it is a breed that will not do well without a human to protect or work alongside. This is a dog that strives to work for its master but also can be a difficult dog for simple obedience commands, since it is a "thinker" and will become bored with repetition. They are extremely loyal, considered to be a one person dog, devoted and protective yet proud and dignified. This is a dog that requires a knowledgeable owner, since it is not inclined to be subservient but is more likely to be somewhat stubborn and strong willed.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

4 Things to Think About Before Declawing your Cat

Declawing is a major surgery known as onychectomy, performed under anesthesia, that removes the tip of each digit (from the first knuckle out) of the cat's forepaws. There is a slight chance of death in the surgery, and a declawed cat may have an increased risk of infection and life-long discomfort in its paws. This surgery is not recommended for an adult animal and is considered an act of animal cruelty in some countries (see below).

People generally have cats declawed to prevent them from hunting and from damaging furniture. Rarely, vicious cats are declawed. In the United States, some landlords require that tenants' cats be declawed.

Veterinarians are generally critical of the procedure and some refuse to perform it because the absence of claws in a cat:

1. Deprives it of its main defense abilities, including escaping from predators by climbing trees;
2. Impairs its stretching and exercise habits, leading to muscle atrophy;
3. Compromises its ability to balance on thin surfaces such as railings and fence tops, leading to injury from falls;
4. Can cause insecurity and a subsequent tendency to bite.

This operation is rare outside of North America. In Finland, Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland, declawing is forbidden by the laws against cruelty to animals.[17] In many other European countries, it is forbidden under the terms of the European Convention for the Protection of Pet Animals, unless "a veterinarian considers [such] non-curative procedures necessary either for veterinary medical reasons or for the benefit of (the) animal". [18] In Britain, animal shelters find it difficult to place imported cats that have been declawed and subsequently most are euthanized.

An alternative to declawing is the application of blunt, vinyl nail caps that are affixed to the claws with nontoxic glue, requiring periodic replacement when the cat sheds its claw sheaths (about every four to six weeks). However, the cat will still experience difficulties because the capped nails are not as effective as claws.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject.You can get much more info at pet.freehostia.com

A Healthy Cat is a Groomed Cat

Cats don't want to be unclean and they need you to help them remain clean. Grooming your cat is important.

You need to do it to take off the loose hair on the cat. Brushing Brushing your cat's hair will keep it from ending up in his stomach. It is not effortless to digest and often the cat can only get rid of it through hairballs. Many cats have trouble with getting rid of hairballs. If the cat can not get them up, it can get into the intestines and cause a blockage. This is life threatening to the pet. If your cat seems to be constipated it may be a indication of a blockage.

Long-haired cats should be brushed and combed daily; short-haired cats only need grooming about once per week. While brushing your cat's coat, keep an eye out for lumps and skin irritations. Brush along your cats back, from head to tail with firm pressure. Repeat this a few times, and then switch to the other side. You should brush each area 4 or 5 times and always remember to brush in the direction of the hair growth.

Don't groom the face or paws with the brush though. Cats who do not like to be brushed can still be groomed with a different tool for instance the grooming glove. Many cats won't even mind if you do this to their face either. If you begin to groom him when he is still young, he will learn to allow it. He may even look forward to being groomed. Many cats will even carry their combs to their owners.

Check Eyes, Ears, Claws and Teeth, too When you do brush him, make sure to check his eyes and his ears too. They should be clear and bright without anything in the corners. The ears should be clean and pink. Dirt that gets into the ears can be a sign of ear mites. These can cause the ears to shrivel up and your cat to lose his ability to hear.

Each time you groom her, try going a bit farther with your examination, praising her with words, strokes, and treats for letting you handle her. If she struggles, it is best to let her go, and try again another day. You can use a cotton ball slightly dampened with warm water to clean the inside skin of your cat's ears. Never put a cotton ball or swab into her ear canal. If she reacts and jerks, you could harm her.

Huge amount of Cat Health information on this site - go there!

Belgian Malinois - Protector Of Home, Family And Livestock

The Belgian Malinois is a medium/large size dog that weighs between 40-80 lbs and is between 22" to 26" in height. Their name is pronounced MAL-in-wah. They are one of four Belgian Sheepdogs and are very work oriented and are protective of home, family and livestock.

The AKC recognizes the Belgian Malinois in the colors of fawn to mahogany to red with a black mask, ears and tips. Minimal white on the chest and feet is permitted. The short, smooth, straight and hard outer coat and dense undercoat require minimal grooming and are very easy to care for. Regular washing is not recommended as their coat has water proofing.

This intelligent, energetic, protective breed is still more of a working dog than companion. They have a strong drive to work. The Belgian Malinois makes an excellent farm dog, watchdog, police dog and herding dog because of their instinct to protect their family, home or whatever else they are trained to protect. They can make a great family pet as well. Early socialization is a must for children, other dogs and pets. In fact, they do best if they are socialized from the time they are born. They can be dominant towards other dogs. Early, consistent, firm but not harsh training is important. They are harder for a novice to train than someone who is more experienced. The Belgian Malinois has a lot of energy and loves to be on the go. They require a yard and plenty of room to run and play. They are not meant to be indoors all day. They enjoy being with their family and are not meant to be left alone for long periods of time as they will get bored and find some way to fill their time.

Originating in Belgium, the Belgian Malinois is one of four Belgian Sheepdogs. Their name comes from the Belgian city of Malines. It is recognize as its own breed by the AKC however, in some countries, all four Belgian Sheepdogs are considered to be one breed. The Belgian Malinois is popular in Belgium and is used for herding, police work and as a search and rescue dog.

A breed with such a strong work drive, protective instinct and high energy makes an excellent watchdog and farm dog. They do best with families that are active and will meet their work and exercise needs. An active, busy Belgian Malinois is a happy Belgian Malinois.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Learn more about the Belgian Malinois or discuss Dogs with other dog lovers at www.deardoggy.com

Cats - Basic Care

Cats have been domesticated for a long time. Domesticated cats originated in Africa and the Middle East between 4,000 and 8,000 years ago. There are many different breeds of cats but most popular cats are the non-pedigree or "mutt" cats. You should always investigate the cost before getting any kind of pet. There is an average of $150 dollars of veterinary care. The cost of food is about $170 dollars a year. The litter can be expensive as well, running about $175 dollars a year. Don't forget the initial cost of getting your cat. The best place to get a cat is at your local shelter. Some of the costs of adopting a pet at a shelter cover your cat's shots, worming and "sterilization". You will still need to get a litter box and other supplies before you bring a cat home, such as cat food, food and water dish. You will also need a brush, toys, safety collar with ID tag, scratching post or pad, cat carrier and a cat bed. Again some shelters offer some of these items with your cat. It is best to call ahead of time and see what is included in your adoption cost.

Feeding your new cat depends on the age. If you have an older cat feed them one large meal a day or two smaller ones. Kittens need to be fed several times a day until they are about 12 weeks old. If your cat is three to six months old then they need to be feed three times a day. You can give your cat canned food, but be sure to throw away any leftover food after 30 minutes. Keep in mind that canned cat food can be expensive and you may have to throw away some. It does not do anything for your cat's dental health like dry food can.

The other alternative is to keep a supply of dry food out constantly. You must make sure your cat has plenty of water when offering dry food. Dry food is less expensive and helps prevent tartar build up on your cat's teeth and help promote healthy gums. Avoid buying generic cat food. They may not have the same guidelines as the brand-name food for your cat's health. If your cat is a kitten, make sure you give them food specified for a kitten. You will need to wash and refill their water dish daily. Do not give your cat cows' milk. They may seem to enjoy it but it can cause diarrhoea. An occasional cat treat for your cat is fine, but do not give them too much because they are fattening. If you find your kitten refusing food, try soaking it in warm water first. Kittens can be fed human baby food for a short time. Buy baby food that is designed for older babies and get chicken or beef. Then you will have to start gradually mixing it into their cat food.

Cats will stay pretty clean so they rarely need a bath. You should brush you cat daily though. It helps keep their coat clean and reduces hairballs and there is less hair for shedding.

Indoor cats will need a litter box. It should be kept in the same place all the time, like your bathroom. You will need to scoop out your litter box on a daily basis and dump and clean it every week. Cats will not use a dirty box. Try to avoid using deodorant and scents, especially lemon, when cleaning the litter box.

You will need to provide a scratching post and or pad. Cats love to scratch and they need to. Cutting your cat's claws every few weeks will allow them to be blunt enough so they will not do serious damage to your furniture. The post will need to be sturdy and at least three feet tall so your cat can stretch when she scratches. It should be made of tree bark, burlap or sisal. You can also get a scratching pad. Sprinkle it with cat nip every couple of weeks to keep her interested.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Cats Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

TheTibetan Mastiff, the Original Molosser

The Tibetan Mastiff is considered to be the original dog from which most of the "Molosser breeds" of today have descended. The high and forbidding mountains of Tibet is the environment which produced this fierce and protective guarding dog. The unforgiving climate and mountainous terrain demanded an animal with endurance, a coat that possessed natural protection against the elements and courage and fearlessness to fight off predator animals. The Tibetan Mastiff was used by the wandering shepherds and nomadic tribes and later by the Monks of Tibet as a protective dog which would effectively give warning of strangers and would guard the sheep. Mention of the large black dog with a fearsome bark can be found in Chinese documents as early as 1100 B.C.

The Tibetan Mastiff of today has changed very little from that original dog. The breed today is actually not as large as some of its descendants. It should stand about 25-26 inches at the shoulder with a weight of 100 to 130 pounds. The chest is deep and as mentioned the neck is heavily ruffed with loose folds of skin. Legs are straight and heavy boned. The face has the typical pendulous flews with a soft expression and fold over ears lying close to the skull. The head has a typical bear like appearance with the lips of the upper jaw lying over the lower jaw. The tail is plumed and curls over the back like that of the Spitz breeds. He is usually black or black and tan but can be red or gold.

The temperament has become more stable through selective breeding. The Tibetan Mastiff has a strong will to protect its family and will be wary of strangers and yet gentle of nature and affectionate to its family. It is a dog that one can easily train but because of its large size needs to be trained early since it has a great deal of strength. The neck of the Mastiff is heavily coated and is somewhat impervious to pain, this is common with Mastiff breeds. The natural reason for this is that predators would of course bite in this vulnerable location. Because of this, the "survival of the fittest" produced a dog with loose skin and heavy coat which would protect the neck area. Therefore when one is training the Mastsiff and most of the dogs with this genetic inheritance it is important to realize that the typical "jerk and pull" training is not going to influence the dog very much. Training is more easily accomplished with the use of the prong collar placed high on the neck behind the ears, or with "clicker training" . The Tibetan Mastiff is a highly intelligent breed that can be quite independent but is willing to please and tireless in its loyalty. He is a dignified member of the household when grown, making a calm and gentle pet for the children and a brave and fearless watchdog and guardian of his family.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

Eating Dog Feces

"My dog eats his own poop!" exclaims the shocked human family member of an otherwise-perfect canine. Or, embarrassed to come right out with it, the human says, "I need to ask about this thing my dog does. It's really strange and disgusting..." The average person doesn't seem to discuss poop-eating dogs with friends and family, so people don't realize it's a common dog behavior. Natural Behavior Mother dogs clean their nursing puppies and eat the feces. With pups in the nest, you can imagine the unhealthy situation that would result from the waste being allowed to accumulate. Cats perform this task for their kittens, too. Other adult dogs in the family sometimes take over motherly duties in times of need, such as a litter too large for the mother or a mother who is ill or dies. False pregnancies are normal in intact female dogs, and female dogs tend to cycle on the same schedule with other females in the same household. Other females who are in false pregnancy are often well equipped to mother some or all of the pups in another female's litter. You can see that eating dog feces is not at all an unusual behavior for dogs. When the pups start eating solid food and walking well enough to get out of the nest to poop, mom can stop the cleaning duty. But the habit can certainly persist in her, and the hard-wired instinct probably exists in most dogs, ready to be triggered by various life situations. Triggers Sometimes we don't know why a particular dog starts eating poop, but certain conditions can trigger the behavior. Since some of these indicate a dog who needs help, you'll want to consider them as possibilities for what is going on with your dog. 1. A dog with a physical problem that causes excessive hunger, pain, or other sensations may resort to eating feces. If your adult dog who has not previously had this habit suddenly develops it, take the dog to your veterinarian for a check-up. 2. A dog who is not getting enough to eat or is going too long between meals may eat feces. Your veterinarian can help you evaluate the dog's weight and can suggest a feeding schedule and amount. Sometimes it takes experimentation to see what works best for a particular dog. 3. A dog with intestinal parasites or other condition that creates blood or other fecal changes may eat feces. One dog may eat the feces of another dog who is shedding something like this in the stools. A fresh fecal specimen to your veterinarian for evaluation can detect some of these problems. 4. Sometimes a change of diet helps. There doesn't seem to be any one food that is right for all dogs, and your dog may need something different than you're currently feeding. Be sure to make any changes of diet gradual, mixing the new food in with the old over a period of several days or weeks, to give the dog's intestines time to adjust and avoid diarrhea from the change. 5. Some dogs develop a mental connection that they will be punished if their humans find them in the same room with feces. Dogs react to this fearful situation in various ways, and one way is to eat the feces so it will not be there to make the human angry. This is one of many reasons not to use punishment when housetraining a dog. 6. Boredom can cause dogs to do all sorts of things, including eat feces. Interesting toys that have treats inside them for the dog to get out can help with lots of boredom-based problems. 7. Dogs may do just about any wild thing when suffering from separation anxiety. If that is the problem, this won't be the only symptom, and you'll want to help your dog work through the separation anxiety. Sanitation The number-one thing you can do to help overcome feces eating is to keep your dog's area clean of feces. This means housetraining, and supervising the dog whenever the dog is in the designated relief area. It's obviously not healthy for dogs to eat feces, and preventing the dog from carrying out the habit is also basic to getting the habit to fade. It's not healthy for humans or dogs to have the feces lying around, either. Until a dog is fully housetrained and the feces-eating habit has died out, picking up after each bowel movement is an important tactic. After the dog's habits are steady, you may be able to pick up just once a day if you have a private place for the dog to use. Food Additives Some people swear by food additives to stop a dog from eating feces. Sometimes the theory is that the additive provides a nutrient the dog is seeking when eating feces and thus the dog will no longer crave feces. Other times the theory is that the additive makes the feces taste bad and the dog will not want it. Before you try adding any of these things to your dog's food, consult your veterinarian about whether the particular additive is safe for your particular dog. Don't expect any additive to be a miracle cure. These things tend to work for the occasional dog, but chances are pretty good that your dog won't be the one. Bait and Switch While you're hanging out with your dog to supervise, you can hurry the process of fading out the feces-eating habit with a simple and pleasant training technique. The tools you'll need are a collar or head halter for the dog, a leash, and small treats your dog values highly. If your dog is easily handled, the collar will do. If the dog is extremely determined to eat the poop, extremely fast or strong, have a behavior specialist fit your dog with the correct size head halter, introduce your dog to it gently, and give you one or more lessons on how to use the head halter safely and effectively. It gives you more control over the dog's mouth than a collar, and if your particular dog needs it for this training you'll be glad to have the skill for other training situations, too. Take your dog out to potty on leash. As soon as the poop hits the ground and the dog shows interest in it, call the dog to you. Use the leash not to jerk the dog, but simply to keep the dog from being able to reach the feces. Keep the treats out of sight. The instant the dog reaches you, praise the dog, whip out a treat and give it. Then back away from the dog, praise and give another treat for coming to you, and repeat that for a total of three to five times. At this point you have really taken the dog's mind off the feces. Go on indoors with the dog and come back out without the dog to clean up. Once you have good control and a good rapport with the dog, you can go ahead and clean up while the dog is still outside. As you set this habit more strongly through repetition, you will be able to do the bait-and-switch with the dog on a long line, coming to you at the back door for a treat. Eventually you'll be able to do bait-and-switch without a leash or line on the dog. Keep up the same energy and level of reward, if you want the dog to keep responding! Talk about It After the dog has been prevented from eating feces for a considerable length of time, the habit tends to fade. That makes supervising the dog and working on this in the positive, bait-and-switch way very worth your while. Start the intervention as soon as you notice the dog eating feces, because the less time a habit has been going on, the more easily it will fade. Help your friends and family by talking about this problem. You'll help their dogs in the process, too, because some people try punishment to break the habit. As you know now, that doesn't work, and it's destructive to the dog's trust in people and to the family's relationship with their dog. Let's bring this "dirty little secret" out into the open. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

Afraid To Buy A Horse At Public Auction?

Here are 5 things to do to put the odds of getting a good horse in your favor.

Let me share a short story with you about public horse auctions and my friend Jack.

I'll show you how to buy a horse at auction so you won't get burned. Jack, an old time horse trader and I use to travel to horse auction all over the state. I'd just watch Jack and maybe later ask my questions.

Jack was usually pretty closed mouthed, but he let me in on his secrets to buying good horses at auctions.

#1 Arrive at the auction real early like 3 hours or more before the auction starts.

You want to be there as the horses arrive, so you can see who brings them and how they unload and walk to their pen.

Who brings the horse? A horse trader, private party, woman, man, kid, also how many horses did they bring? You need to know this so you have a clue as to who you will possibly be buying from and who to talk to about the horse before you bid.

#2 If you see a horse you like the looks of, go to the horses holding pen.

Watch the horse and how he moves. If the horse is tied up in the pen this could mean trouble as the horse owner might not want you to see the horse move. Check the horse for blemishes and soundness, make sure the legs are clean and the hooves are healthy and maintained, there should not be any limping or signs of lameness.

I do not like scars, divots or bumps on the head and neck, This shows the horse has been in a wreck of some kind, which could mean the horse is prone to panic, I’ve been stuck with a couple of panic prone horses and they did hurt me. If you don't know about lame horses and what to watch out for, take someone with you who does or don't bid.

Now the horse should show signs of life maybe be a little bit excited, what with all the other horses and the new surroundings, if not you could be looking at a drugged horse.

#3 Talk to the person that brought the horse

you know this person because you seen them arrive. Make sure they are the owner of the horse, if not who are they? The standard stories are:

It's my neighbors horse, this often means it is my horse but I am not going to admit it to you, as I don't want to be held accountable for the lies I'm about to tell you.

Or I'm a dealer trying to pass off this horse as a good old horse so gentle to ride, the neighbor kid rode bareback on the road when in reality it's a dink horse that he can't sell off his trading string.

Jack use to saddle up to the person who brought the horse and softly ask; say can you tell me a little bit about your horse? ( then he SHUT UP! ). They would tell all the nice things about the horse and Jack would just look at the horse, not saying a word. After they got through the string of lies or half truths, they would start getting nervous because it was so quite they thought they had to ramble on some more and that's when a bit more of the truth starts to show up, yeah old Barley don't buck except that one time when he broke my collar bone opps...

#4 Follow the horse from the pen to the sale ring

Jack use to walk right into the sale ring with the horse and watch it move in the ring too. The other advantage is you can see who is bidding. The owner or someone with them may be running up the bid, you know this because you seen them arrive right?

Now you may not be able to get in the ring but you can stand next to it so you can see the horse and the crowd too. Most owners try too hard to get their horse to ride well in the ring which is usually too small to work a horse in anyway so you get to see how the horse responds under pressure. Watch for rearing, head tossing, humping up or crow hopping, usually the small size of the ring prevents them from bucking.

#5 If you still like the horse bid on it.

How much? Jack would only pay about $15 to $20 above killer price. How much is that? You need to snoop around before the sale and ask the dealers or auctioneer, I've seen it range from 15 cents to 1 dollar a pound, so that could mean from $150 to $1000 for a 1000 pound riding horse.

Jack was comfortable paying that price as he would take the horse home, try them out, if there was a problem he would run them through the next auction and not get hurt too bad, out $20 at most.

This works good if you, your wife, or kids don't fall in love with old Barley, Jack use to say if you don't send them right back to the auction. you end up with a field full of cripples and buckers.

You can get a nice horse at a rock bottom price following this method. My experience has been that I can get older well trained horses that people are bailing out on because the kids all left home and they don't want to feed the horse any more, or they just were flash in the pan horsemen and need the money for a quad runner.

I have also bought young unbroke horses that people do not have the skill to train, if you think you want a go at that, make sure you have a medical plan and go for it.

I do not pay top dollar for exceptional horses at auctions because, again experience has taught me there are no exceptional horse at these auctions, if you think there are some there, look close as there is usually a hole in them somewhere.

Now put this plan into action and you will find a nice horse that you can use and even make a profit on if you so choose at some time in the future, just do all the steps and you will get the successful results.

Dale Anderson

http://www.breeds-of-horses.com

dale@breeds-of-horses.com; 360-398-1261

Small Dog Breeds For Small Homes

Just because you live in a small home or apartment doesn’t mean you can’t have a dog. There are many small and toy breeds that make excellent pets for small homes. But even small dogs like variety and exercise, so it is important that you are prepared to spend time with your dog, take her for walks and ensure that she gets the best care. Once you have made that commitment to yourself, you can choose which breed of dog is most suitable to you and your lifestyle.

Small dog breeds make the cutest puppies, and one of the cutest small dog puppies around is the Maltese. This popular small dog breed generally grows to no more than six or seven pounds in weight, and has a beautiful white coat. The Maltese is a very ancient dog breed and has a strong constitution, though it should not be kept in very hot areas, due to the thick coat. The Maltese enjoys walks and is very playful. A great companion if you want a lively little pet and will enjoy the grooming chores.

Another delightful long haired small dog breed is the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. This lovely small dog is as courtly as its name and weighs about twice as much as a Maltese. The King Charles is a friendly and sociable small dog, well known for giving a lifetime of loyal attachment. This is the ideal dog if you prefer to lead a quiet life.

Top of the line in long haired small dog breeds is the Lowchen, as long as you enjoy spending long hours brushing, and don’t mind the hefty price tag. The beautiful `Little Lion’ dog can cost around $1000. A true indoors dog, the Lowchen is no exercise fanatic but owners have reported `separation anxiety’ to be a problem, so don’t get this dog breed if you are away for long hours every day.

If you want a pet with a shorter coat, try the Miniature Fox Terrier. This lively little dog will need lots of exercise, and appreciates having a collection of toys. Fox terriers can be yappy, so your pet may need to go to obedience school if she annoys the neighbors. This is a healthy and low maintenance dog breed, suitable for the owner who just wants to enjoy having a pet without all the grooming fuss.

A more sleek and elegant short haired pet is the Italian greyhound, and if you want a pet that enjoys exercise, this is the dog breed for you. Owners report that the Italian greyhound is a very well behaved dog, but prone to stress, so it is not a suitable pet where there are small children. This dog breed grows to a height of about 15 inches but is very lightweight â€" around 5 pounds.

The Welsh corgi is one of the classic small dog breeds, and very popular with Queen Elizabeth II of England. They will be popular with you, too, if you want a playful, affectionate pet. The Welsh corgi comes in two breeds, the Cardigan and the Pembrokeshire. The Pembrokeshire is smaller and more popular than the Cardigan, but both make faithful pets for small homes.

Finally, there is the ultimate small dog breed for apartment living â€" the toy poodle. Naturally popular in Europe, the toy poodle is somewhat high maintenance regarding its fluffy coat, but a surprisingly undemanding pet. Toy poodles love to play and appreciate having their own toys, but they are easy to train and adapt to their owners. Like most pets, the toy poodle prefers company to being left alone, but if you spend a lot of time away from home, perhaps you should think twice about getting a pet anyway!

Copyright © 2005, Ian White

Author Ian White is founder of Dog-Breeders.biz. This extensive online directory includes listings by private breeders, kennel clubs, and occasional hobby or family breeders. Those seeking dogs can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Dog-Breeders.biz automates the matching of dogs for sale with puppy wanted entries, with daily email notifications to all parties.

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How To Train Your Dog In Five Easy Steps

Have you noticed that being around a dog that is trained is lovely to be around?

Dogs that are trained are less likely to jump up on people, and are less at risk of biting someone. Their manners are very calm in nature and don't get distracted in most environments.

It is important to train your dog with the goal to teach them limitations, thus making them more relaxed around humans. On the internet there are so many hundreds of dog training programs and as many professional dog trainers. However, it is hard to tell which are professional and which give real value to training your dog.

The best way to find a good trainer is to ask your friends and family if they know a good dog trainer. Once you have found a trainer, ask them what method of training they teach and how long they have been instructing. There are tons of training methods for dogs that do not apply to the times of today. Ask the trainer what method they use, why they use it, and what the benefits of it are. No question is stupid because you are thinking of your dogs best interest.

Whether you train your dog yourself or find a professional, teaching your dog commands and socializing it is important. Areas to cover in training include:

1. Learning the sit command. Normally this is the first thing that new dog owners teach their puppies and dogs.

2. Interacting with other dogs. Helping your dog socialize with other dogs is great at dog parks and also in a dog training class.

3. Socializing to strangers. Dogs love humans and getting them acquainted with more humans makes it easier to interact with strangers.

4. Dog Leash walking at your pace. This is important that your dog learns who is the boss by you regulating the speed of the do walks.

5. Learning the stay command: This command is important for your dog to master in different environment obstacles.

There are many benefits to having a well-trained dog. But it doesn't necessarily mean the dog will not develop behavioral problems down the road. Being around a well-trained dog is a joy and it strengthens the human-animal bond.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

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How to Handle Horses Safely

Caring for a horse is an excellent way to gain new skills and build a strong bond the animal. However, it is important to practice safety procedures when handling your horse. There can be some risks involved in handling horses. They are large animals which are very strong, and can easily hurt you. This is why it is important to have an understanding of these animals.

If you encounter a horse that is owned by another person, you never want to feed them without the permission of the owner. You always want to make sure you approach a horse from the side or the front, and never from the rear. Be sure to announce your presence. Approaching the horse from behind can cause it to become startled, and if it kicks you in the head it could easily paralyze or kill you.

When caring for your horse, you want to make gentle movements. Never move quickly or run around horses, as they may become frightened or agitated. You also want to speak quietly around the horse and avoid making loud or strange noises. Always keep children and other pets such as dogs under control at all times. If you want to ride the horse, always wear the proper footwear and a good helmet.

Like many animals, horses are the most dangerous when they are scared. When they become scared, the only thing they are concerned with is survival, and anyone in their path will get hurt. The best way to avoid a situation like this is to understand what scares horses, and how you can avoid scaring them. Horses are herbivores, and have always been the target of predators.

Because of this, horses have developed the ability to easily detect potential predators. They are always alert, and their long necks and eyes assist them in watching their environment at all times. When looking at a horse from a distance, it is important to pay attention to its body language. When horses are startled they will display up to three signs with their bodies.

The first thing you want to watch for is a horse which suddenly freezes. This is a sign that it is startled. It freezes to be make it harder for predators to detect it, and will slowly look around in the direction of the disturbance. A horse will also spin around or jump, and this is designed to injure potential predators. When cornered, a horse will fight, and its feet and hooves can be deadly. Always use caution when handling horses.

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Using Reward and Punishment to Train Your Dog

The basis of all animal training is reward and punishment, and repetition leading to reflex actions. Pleasure and displeasure are sufficient rewards and punishments for dogs. Dogs never become capable of understanding the moral distinctions between right and wrong, as children do, and they seldom evolve beyond the “childish” stage of doing something because it makes their owner happy.

In dog training, punishments and rewards are really an elementary form of communication, a means of getting the dog to understand what you want him to do. You will get the best results from the mildest punishment and the most extravagant praise at first. Later on, an affectionate word or an imperceptible pat will suffice.

The most effective canine rewards are a word of praise such as “Good Dog!” in an affectionate, enthusiastic tone of voice. A caress, such as stroking the back, rubbing behind the ears, along the muzzle, or stroking the head. Edible rewards can also be used such as cooked liver, a biscuit, a sliver of cheese, or whatever your dog prefers. Edible rewards work better on puppies, while adult dogs generally prefer praise.

The most effective forms of punishment are the absence of praise. Saying “No, Bad Dog” in a firm but not loud voice. Try to say the word “no” as little as possible, and emphasize more on the positive instead. Constraints such as making the dog sit or lie down after the misbehavior. You should never strike or hit a dog on any part of their body, especially with your hand. It is humiliating, traumatizing, and can undo much hard work in the positive or reward side of the training.

Shy and sensitive dogs respond to gentle correction and lavish praise. They can be terrorized by severe handling. In spite of their reputation for toughness, most Terriers require gentle handling too, since they tend to associate pain with fighting, and painful punishments can trigger instinctive resistance or aggression.

Sheep dogs and hounds, as well as many of the large breeds react to the gentlest measures, and most learn best from rewards alone. Due perhaps to the dog’s rapid evolution toward a more civilized, sensitive mentality, old fashioned punishment is not as effective as it used to be and as stated earlier, may have a negative effect.

If punishment must be used, preferably by scolding, always be brief, and try to not show any anger. The dog may not comprehend exactly what you want him to do, or exactly what “good” behavior is in this situation. After a punishment is given you should return at once to the lesson or some other positive activity.

The more time you spend with your dog, and the earlier the training is started will go a long way in producing good results and good behavior. Puppies always learn faster than older dogs that have already been conditioned by their environment, but you the owner are they key, and they look to you to lead and guide, reward and praise.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest designer dog clothes, dog collars, dog strollers and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://www.joncopets.com

Invisible Fences Help Keep Your Pet Safe

If you have a dog that has a problem staying in your yard, then you are probably worried about them wandering off or getting into traffic. You want your dog to be able to run freely in your yard but at the same time you don't want them to be hurt in anyway.

A relative cheap alternative to fencing or putting your dog in a dog run is to have a professional company install an invisible fence. Depending on the size of your yard, installation can start at approximately $500. This is a small price to pay when it comes to the safety of your dog. Some electric fences that you install yourself are priced cheaper but without the professional training they are often not as affective. This can end up costing you more money in the long run to switch to professional installation.

The first thing you need to do is to find a professional installer in your area that is ASPC approved to be sure that the product is humane to your dog. Most places will come out to your home and give you a free demonstration and estimate for installation. You can show them what areas you want fenced in, including around swimming pools, the woods or just specific parts of the yard.

Once the fencing is installed, the company will mark the fencing with flags so that your dog can begin to associate the flags with the boundaries. They typically have a professional dog trainer on staff that can train your dog to know where they can and can't go. Your dog will wear a collar that will emit a tone when they are too close to the boundaries. This way they will learn to stop when they hear the sound rather than experiencing a shock. You can request them to send you batteries throughout the year so that you won't have to worry about the batteries running out.

The average time it takes dogs to respond to the fencing and understand their boundaries is approximately 3-4 weeks. It can take more or less time depending on the dog and how much fencing is installed in the yard. Once your dog learns the boundaries, you can remove the flags. If your dog ever crosses the boundaries, you can call the company and have them come out to retrain, often free of charge.

Safe for your dog and family, the invisible fence allows you to keep your dog in your yard without changing your landscape. It does not give your dog the harmful shocks that many electric fences can give. You can search on the internet for more information or for invisible fence companies in your area.

I enjoy writing and creating websites. For more of my websites please visit my mideval clothing, bactiria, riskmanagement websites. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Miers

Herp Hunting in the Northern Territory, Australia

Appeared in 'Reptile Care' Volume 3, Issue 3

The northern territory is well known for being ‘the real bush’. It has a population of less than 200’000 people, over 90% of which live in Government areas. These government areas only cover 5% of the Northern Territory, which leaves over 1.2 million square kilometres virtually deserted. This area is nearly five times the size of the UK! As you can now imagine, this is an incredibly large and diverse landscape! There are approximately 300 species of reptile, and 50 species of amphibian in the Northern Territory. Slightly more diverse one might say, than the UK’s species count of only 6 reptiles and 6 amphibians!

I spent the entire year of 2005 travelling around Australia. I went to every State, every major city, drove across the longest straight road in the world, twice, and travelled the complete circumference of this beautiful country. But the Northern Territory was in my books, by far the most fantastic place I have ever been. I spent 3 months in Darwin, and several more weeks travelling around the NT, going as far south as Alice Springs and Ayers Rock (Uluru in Aboriginal terms). I knew the place was for me when, only a few days after I drove through, I saw my first wild Black Headed Python (Aspidites melanocephalus) crossing the road. What a shock! This was the first snake I had seen in Australia and I had already driven thousands of kilometres. I nearly ran it over, but swerved suddenly, missing it by millimetres! I turned around and went back, moving it off the road before the 50 metre oncoming road train ploughed straight through us all! It was a beautiful, 2 metre female in perfect condition. It was different seeing such an animal in the wild, after seeing many of them in friends’ collections, it did not compare to the wonderful feeling of seeing her out in the bush and lending her a helping hand getting across the road. This was definitely for me! I knew there was plenty more where she came from, and I would definitely find them!

During my time in the Northern Territory, I spent 3 months working at ‘Crocodylus Park’. A crocodile research and education centre, home to approximately 8’000 saltwater crocodiles and a number of other crocodilian and animal species. This was certainly an experience of a lifetime. Not only to work with such a large number of large crocodiles, but also to meet a whole group of brilliant ozzies! Myself and my girlfriend Eirlys stayed with an Australian couple; Cade & Holly. Cade knew the area and had been working at the park for a couple of years. He told me of a place he goes to on a regular occasion. He said to me; “We drive out after the sun sets, about 45 minutes out of town and just cruise for snakes.” Well, that just sounded too easy for me, but I definitely wanted to give it a go!

Only a few days later, Cade had organised a few of his mates to join us on a night out ‘herping’. We set off in convoy, Cade and 3 others in his car, closely followed by Maddy’s car with me in the back and another couple of people! 45 Minutes later and we arrive at Fogg Dam. This place wasn’t what I expected, it didn’t look so amazing. We started driving very slowly along this road, which soon turned quite narrow, with a 2 metre drop off either side into dense, wet marshland. This was however, the dry season. In the wet season this road is not even visible, being completely submerged in water. Only a few seconds after driving along, comes our first catch of the night; a Yellow-Bellied Water Python (Liasis mackloti)! This was very closely followed by another, then another, then another. Within half an hour we had picked 14 water pythons off the road, even catching 2 or 3 at a time! Of course, all of these were released straight back into the marshes. I certainly had second thoughts about this place, it was amazing!

After our successful water python round-up, we took the time to sit by the road and see what we could spot. Out came our big torches, shining into the marsh either side of the road. The eyes of at least 20 crocodiles shone back at us. Most were the freshwater crocodiles (Crocodylus johnstoni), but some eyes were larger and further apart, these were the bigger, saltwater or ‘estuarine’ crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus). I had seen this on TV many times, but it was quite different to see this naturally. I must admit, even working with crocodiles all day; knowing that we were surrounded by hundreds of them was certainly a scary thought! The night was topped off by a find I was desperate for, a Northern Death Adder (Acanthophis praelongus)! An absolutely beautiful one too, camouflaged so well into the road we nearly turned it into another piece of ‘road-kill’. This was a successful night!

I later found out, ‘Fogg Dam’ has the largest concentration of predatory animals in the world! The water pythons on their own, represent the largest density of predatory species in such a concentrated area. Their prey is the dusky rat, which are said to be in numbers of 15’000 per square kilometre. From these numbers of prey, it is easy to understand their success.

Darwin is a small capital city, with just over 100’000 people, over half the population of the entire Northern Territory. You only have to drive an hour out of the city centre to reach Litchfield National Park; a 1’500 square kilometre oasis of Northern Territory habitat, including one of the most famous termite mound spectacles in the world, a number of amazing water falls, rock formations and forested areas. A couple of hours due East is the even larger Kakadu National Park, covering nearly 20’000 square kilometres of land, nearly the same size as Ireland! This is one of the most famous National Parks in the world and it certainly should be. Home to thousands of species of flora & fauna.

It was nice to get out to Litchfield National Park on weekends, being only a short drive away. I went several times during my stay in the NT. It has an abundance of wildlife visible during the day, but at night it really comes alive! Litchfield is famous for it’s Magnetic Termite Mounds, so called because they are all north â€" south facing. The structures are approximately 3metres tall and built so that the narrowest edge is facing the extremely intense sun for the midday heat. With so many termites, come so many predators. Many species of skinks and other small lizards are common here. The Northern Territory is home to approximately 100 species of skink, many rely on small insects such as termites. With so many small lizards, come many reptiles that feed upon these lizards, including the Burtons Legless Lizard (Lialis burtonis). This is one of the larger species of legless lizard, and has the unusual, snake-like characteristic of being able to un-hinge it’s jaw to allow an easy passage for their larger food items. These are very common in Litchfield, and I was fortunate enough to see many. All of which varied in colour.

Orange-naped snakes (Furina ornata) are plentiful in the Northern Territory, although they are not seen nearly as often as other species. I was lucky enough to spot this guy slithering across the road one night. My tour guide for the night was Maddy, one of Cade’s mates. He had been herping for years around the Territory, and was familiar with the different species of reptiles you might find on the different nights, at certain times of the year. He thought I must be a good luck charm, as this was the first Orange Naped Snake he had ever caught here!

I have dealt with hundreds of species of snake in the last few years, but I really wanted to get a taste for the ‘lethal’ stuff. The Northern Territory was certainly the place to do it; and at this point I had already encountered a Death Adder in the wild. That though, wasn’t enough. The Coastal Taipan (Oxyuranus scutellatus) was a rare sight and although I hoped to catch a glimpse of one, the opportunity never came. I was more fortunate however with the Brown Snakes! I saw 2 Western Brown snakes (Pseudonaja nuchalis) within a few kilometres of each other in Litchfield National Park. Unfortunately though, my one and only sight of a wild King Brown (Pseudonaja australis), was a juvenile victim of a car tyre. It had only just happened, we had passed the same spot just half an hour earlier, yet on our way back through, the snake had appeared, dead.

A number of reptile and insect species can be found in and around the Darwin area. While living in Karama, we had a number of visitors to our backyard. Green Tree Snakes (Dendralaphis punctulatus), Two-Lined Dragons (Diporiphora bilineata), Striped Tree Dragons (Amphibolorus temporalis), Australian House Gecko’s (Gehyra australis), Asian House Gecko’s (Hemidactylus frenatus), Garden Skinks (Carlia gracilis and Carlia munda)and Mertens’ Water Monitor’s (Varanus mertensi). Huntsman and Redback spiders are also common in households and gardens.

By Chris Jones Director of Pet Club UK Ltd. http://www.petclubuk.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones