Dog Training: Overcome The Misbehavior Of Your Dog While You're Away

Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training. Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner's property, excessive barking, self destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation. Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away. Well meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the dog, but it is important for the well being of both dog and owner that the dog learn to deal with extended periods of separation. How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the dog feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves. These long types of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated dogs often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture. Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same. If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your dog more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem. If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety. In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the dog to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day. It is important, for instance, to give the dog plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away. This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys. A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well. Giving the dog a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone. Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the pet is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety. Playing with the dog, and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise, is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious dog. A happy dog that has been well exercised and well conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day. It is important to give the dog a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave. For dogs that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get him accustomed to your leaving gradually. Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day. Doing so will get your dog accustomed to your departures and help him realize that you are not leaving him forever. Dogs that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety. Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that your leaving is not permanent.

RecoveryPets.Com Helps Recover Lost Pets

Making our lives better includes protecting our families, and also included in this category is the family pet. This once wild animal has become an integral part of the modern family, and there are many laws devoted to stopping abuses to pets. What is lacking in the modern family is proving a means to recover the family pet, if they should ever become lost. Ensuring that a lost pet will be returned to its owners should be a number one priority, because the loss of a family pet can be a very devastating time.

Fortunately there are organizations that provide services to increase the chances of recovering a family pet if they should ever become loss. One such company that combines the pet identification tag and the Internet is RecoveryPets.Com, they provide a service that assigns the pet a unique tracking number, and a web page on their site. This page includes a complete pet description, a photograph of the pet, and up to ten contact numbers or email addresses. So if a stranger finds the pet, they can quickly identify the owner by entering the unique tracking number on the website and the contact information will be displayed.

The process involved is very simple, once the pet has been registered for the service the registrant will receive a metal pet tag that contains the unique identification number, and the RecoveryPets.Com website address. If the pet should ever become loss the finder logs onto the website, and enters the unique identification number into a form field, and the pet owners information will be displayed.

The company is also making efforts to partner with organizations that lost pets are returned to, including the Humane Society, S.P.C.A., and various other pet shelter organizations. The goal is to provide a one-stop location for these organizations to go to when they have a lost pet with the RecoveryPets.Com identification tag on the collar. If you are a pet owner and would like to get more information on the services provided by RecoveryPets.Com, or would like to register your pet for their service, you can visit their website at: http://www.recoverypets.com

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com and they specialize in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number. For more information visit http://www.recoverypets.com

Ferret Training Tips

1. Litter box training

Ferrets are not drawn to use their litter-boxes like cats, so patience and treats work best to insure a potty trained fuzzy in your home. Here's how to do it:

1. Begin by training in a smaller space, such as your ferrets cage.

2. As with kittens, look for signs that your ferret is ready to go (such as spinning or backing into a corner) then placing them in the litter pan.

3. After each successful potty session, reward them with a treat immdediately.

4. When you feel comfortable that your ferret has the proper manners, begin placing litter-boxes throughout the areas (outside of the cage) they are allowed.

5. If you are still having accidents, especially in a cage, try placing food or ferret bedding in the offending area. If this area smells more like their kitchen or bedroom, your ferret will be less likely to continue the unwanted relief in that area.

6. Remember, even a potty-trained ferret can make mistakes. Be sure to clean these areas thoroughly, removing any scent with a cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle for Ferrets which will remove any ferret scent, keeping these areas free of the potty smell which could lead to further accidents.

2. Nip-training Most new (generally younger) ferrets will nip people, including you. It is important to know, that in most cases your ferret is not purposely trying to hurt you. A ferret’s skin is extremely tough and you’ll notice if you have more than one ferret that they play rough with each other. Should your ferret nip new or old you’ll have to begin nip-training immediately. Anyone who tells you to nip-train your ferret by flicking his nose or by giving him a light smack is grossly mistaken.

Instead, use these methods accordingly:

• Spray them with a water bottle

• Blow lightly on their face

• Make a loud, high-pitched "YIP!" sound (mimicking a ferrets own pain sound)

• Cover their face

• Use bitter apple spray on your hands or other prone areas

• Give them a “time-out” in their cage It is important to be patient when training. Also, be sure to never place your ferret down if you are nipped. This will only help the ferret associate biting with freedom, which could lead to more problems down the road.

3. Dig-training

Ferrets love to dig. You can try using the methods listed under nip-training. Below, we have listed a few more tips for problems you may encounter.

1. Digging in the couch or bed. Couches or beds can be havens for your ferret. Unfortunately, many problems can occur due to digging in these items. Try placing a solid bottom on your couch or box spring so that your ferret cannot get into their inner workings. You could try removing the legs of your couch to further discourage this behavior. Remember, sometimes it’s best to have a safe and happy ferret, so limiting their access to areas with these potential problems/hazards in general may be necessary if the problem persists.

2. Digging in food or water. Should your ferret love to splash about his water, food or both, try using water bottles which limit the amount of water that your ferret has access to at one time. The same principal can be applied to their food. A ferret is less likely to throw about their only meal, so try limiting the amount of food in bowls should your fuzzy show an interest in food digging.

3. Digging in the litter. Litter digging can more than just distasteful. Some ferrets have been known to eat litter. Doing so may causes harmful blockages. If you discover your ferret does this, try changing only a little bit of your ferrets litter, leaving some dirty litter behind. Ferrets are less likely to dig in dirty litter.

4. Digging in your plants. Most importantly, many household plants are toxic to ferrets. If you are going to keep plants in your home, it’s best to keep them in rooms that are off limits to ferrets. If this is unavoidable, we recommend using bitter apple to treat the area surrounding each plant (pot, soil, table it is on, etc.). However, being the rascals they are, ferrets may soon figure out what areas of the plant can still be dug or chewed on because you cannot treat the whole thing, which is why we recommend keeping ferrets away from plants as a rule.

Remember, patience and persistence will be the most effective tools when training your ferret. Digging, as well as some other behaviors may be the result of boredom. Try changing your ferret’s surroundings (cage) often, as well as playing with them. Also, don’t leave your ferrets alone to wreak havoc, then return to scold them when left unsupervised. Ferrets are inquisitive, wonderful creatures. Be sure to reward this trait with plenty of games, toys, and of course; love…

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com

The Ibizan Hound: A Unique Hunter of Antiquity

The Ibizan Hound is believed to have originated on the Spanish island of Ibiza and is known to have existed as early as 3400 B.C., when it was used as one of the hunting hounds of the Egyptian Pharaohs. The antiquity of this breed is well established, having been found in varying forms in many of the archeological discoveries from ancient Egypt. A statuette of an Ibizan Hound referred to in ancient writing as Anubis, " the watchdog of death" was discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamen. It actually differs very little from the modern Ibizan one sees today The resemblance between the Pharaoh Hound and the Ibizan is very close. In reality both dogs probably stem from the same origins, however there are slight differences between the two breeds in the A.K.C. standards of the modern world. The Ibizan of today is heavier and stockier than the Pharaoh Hound.

The Ibizan Hound is classified as a "sight hound" but it is interesting to note that the Ibizan, unlike other "sight hounds" is believed to also hunt by scent and by sound. They are silent hunters, able to scent, flush and course the prey. They were quite popular with the hunters in Europe in the middle ages. It is believed that the breed flourished in Europe after having been brought on the backs of Hannibals' elephants in his invasion of Italy. At one time, the breed was banned in France because it had been extensively used by poachers, who favored it because of its ability to hunt and course and bring down the prey silently.

The Ibizan may appear to be a beautiful and elegant dog meant to lie about and look pretty but his character is far from being just an elegant companion dog. The Ibizan is a hunting machine, if you were to use modern terminology. He is agile and able to jump to great heights without a take off. He is relentless in his pursuit of prey. He is tireless and methodical. When he loses sight, sound, or scent of the prey, he has been known to stand on his hind legs and get a better look. The dog also retrieves to hand. The hunting abilities and super intelligence of the breed have survived unchanged since ancient times and it remains a truly instinctive hunting animal even today.

The Ibizan Hound does not have a large "following" in the show rings of the United States. It was first registered in 1956. It is a relatively tall dog that has the appearance of elegance, with upright large ears that give it a look of eternal surprise. The colors may be white or any shade of red or chestnut or any combination of these colors. The Ibizan can be either the short coated or the wire coated, however the wire coated Ibizan is not common.

This is not a dog for everyone. Its high degree of activity and instinctive desire to hunt requires that he be confined or closely supervised when outside. This is a breed that is an independent thinker and can be a challenge for a novice dog person. However he enjoys being with people and generally is even tempered and quiet, being a considerate companion in the house. Because this is a dog that will not tolerate cold temperatures, he needs to be kept inside and will not do well as a kennel dog unless it is an indoor facility . He makes a gentle and quiet companion but does require daily exercise.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

The National Geographic Birdfeeders Offer Great Variety To The Backyard Bird Watcher

The nice thing about National Geographic birdfeeders is that you can be assured that they come with great provenance. Sure, you can walk into any local pet store and find bird feeders of all sorts. But do they work well--have they been vetted--that is the question. With National Geographic birdfeeders the variety is wonderful and the workmanship well worth the shipping cost, which one must consider when ordering off the internet. For instance, you can find feeders with a sturdy wire cage around them so that little birds can hide inside and not be bothered by larger, shall we say obnoxious, visitors?! The website http://shop.nationalgeogr aphic.com also has a variety of other National Geographic birdfeeders for those who are concerned about needing weatherproof or squirrelproof feeders. There is no need to have your precious seeds go moldy. You don't go to the trouble and expense of buying quality seed just to have rain get in and start sprouting seeds! It's not a seed sprouter you're interested in -- it's supposed to be a dry seed feeder! And as for our four-legged squirrel 'friends', yes, they were created with the same inalienable rights as birds by the Creator. The proviso is: NIMBY! You can even find squirrel feeders on the website, but even better, you can find National Geographic birdfeeders that are squirrel PROOF. If you've fed birds for any length of time, you know how much a squirrel loves sunflower oil seed. After all, they are smart critters. But we are not interested in feeding squirrels high quality seed. We might provide some corn and make them do tricks for it for our entertainment, but not for sunflower seeds! There is a fine squirrel-proof example among the National Geographic birdfeeders on the site. Also offered among the National Geographic birdfeeders is a unique hummingbird feeder mobile! It has three glass balls that can be filled with red sugar water. The balls turn around each other in the wind and with the attentions of the hummingbirds. Give it a look. It's a delicate and enchanting piece of sculpture in motion.

Tips On Breeding Snakes

When you've had some success caring for captive snakes, you might find yourself interested in breeding them. This can be done, but it requires record keeping and attention to many details concerning the living conditions of the snakes. The breeding is generally done in the winter so that the babies are born or hatched in the spring.

Breeding snakes requires feeding them well for about four months, and then putting them into a cool state of hibernation. To do this, you first need to fatten them up, especially females, for a few months in late summer, then lower the temperature for a few more weeks or months. The exact timing varies with the species, as do the temperature requirements.

Just a quick note about determining the sex of a snake. This skill needs to be learned from an expert. It is a tricky process, sometimes requiring the use of a metal probe to look for the male reproductive organ. Even the most experienced of snake breeders make a mistake now and then.

During the hibernation, the snake is not fed, but is provided fresh water. When the time is up, the snake is gradually warmed up, and fed well again for a little while. Then the female and male are placed together. If she resists him, separate them and wait another week. If not, leave them together for a week or so.

A female snake that is developing eggs within is called "gravid." Some species of snake eat well during this time and others don't. The length of time it takes varies even within the same species. Again, the amount of heat provided makes a difference. Most females will shed shortly before laying their eggs.

Some snakes give birth to live offspring instead of laying eggs. The boas are examples of this. The hibernation requirements for these tropical snakes are much less, amounting to just a couple of weeks with low nighttime temperatures. Their humidity needs are higher, and they should be misted daily. With boas, you can add more than one male to the female's enclosure.

Pregnancy takes from 4 to 10 months. The mother to be usually eats well during this time, but you should choose smaller food items, since her inside body space is getting more crowded. Shedding usually precedes giving birth, but it can be as much as another month before the birth. The litter size can range from 10 to as many as 80 for large, robust females.

In general, snake babies should be removed and placed in separate containers lined with paper towels. The paper towels should be kept moist for the first two weeks. They will shed around this time, and can feed on pinkies or fuzzies (young mice) after the shed.

There may be a market for these young reptiles, and the process is certainly fascinating for the hobbyist. Do remember, though, that there are growing numbers of pet snakes being shoved off into rescue shelters because the owners just can't handle them any more. Be a responsible snake breeder, and make sure your young snakes won't just be more casualties.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Gary Ruplinger is the owner of Boatips.com, a site providing information about pet snakes. To learn more about breeding snakes and to learn about pet snakes in general, visit us.

Tips on Easy House Breaking Your Puppy

If you are lucky enough to get a 7-week-old puppy, there is no excuse for any bad habits to develop over his lifetime. Puppies learn INSTANTLY when they are that young, and if you use the proper training methods, gentle but consistent, he will behave like an angel his whole life through.

The most important training, of course, is housebreaking. Boys are easier than girls because exploring outside is their favorite thing. They just cannot get enough of all the new smells out there!

The main key to housebreaking is watching. Watch your puppy AND the clock. Once every hour is not too often on a day he is active and the weather is good. The younger the pup, the more often he needs to go out, mostly because he is growing so fast. He must drink more water to fuel his metabolism than he does as an adult. Also, since he eats three or four times a day, you know what that means.

Watch him for subtle changes. If he is happily chewing his toy, and gets up suddenly with his nose to the floor, move quickly! He is ready to squat! If he has had a nice nap, get him out of his crate and outside right away. If he has just had a good grooming, it stimulates his circulation and guess what? Time to go out again. And of course after a meal, watch him extra close.

Things to remember:

---Do not punish him for mistakes. They are YOUR fault. Every time you take him out he will go, and praise praise and praise! Happy face, laughter, happy noises! He loves your happy face. When he makes a mistake, your frown and your face turned away from him is all the punishment he needs. He will get the point.

---He is learning English, you must use the same phrases over and over. "Good go potty!" "Hafta go potty?" "Wanna go potty?" He can learn in one afternoon that "go potty" means a jaunt outside and your happy face. Whatever phrase you choose, stick with it.

---I cannot recommend strongly enough getting a crate. They truly help with all phases of his training. They make him more secure, provide him with his very own private space and a place for him to hide his favorite toys and chewies. This is even more important if you have other adult dogs in the house.

---Be consistent, always be kind and gentle, and be patient as he learns your language, and your puppy will always look forward to his training sessions. Dogs love to work!

D. Witt has shown, bred and trained standard poodles for 25 years. Vets and groomers of her pups send word back of how wonderfully happy and easy to handle they are. Gentle and consistent techniques produce a dog that is well-adjusted, happy and obedient his whole life through. For more on her training techniques, visit http://www.DogTraining15MinsADay.com

Dog Clothes

Dog cloths go a long way in protecting your dog from cuts, scratches and bad weather. The main function should be to keep a dog dry and warm. The history of clothing for animal’s dates back to the period of King Arthur. At that time, clothes were used to protect the knights’ horses from external elements and attacks.

Dog clothes were primarily used in the military and law enforcement areas, in order to safeguard dogs from both the surrounding environment and attacks. Today, dogs also serve as narcotic sniffers in police departments. But a dog’s main role is to be a pet to an individual or a family. For these reasons, dog apparel has changed with the time.

Dog Clothes include all kinds of outfits that are exclusive to dogs. Body suits, coats, dog dresses, t-shirts, tank tops, sweaters and sweatshirts are just a few items to choose from. Doggie boots, leashes, tags and hair clips are some accessories that compliment a dog’s apparel. Other accessories include bathrobes, beds, boots, carriers, collars, jackets, raincoats and toys. There are outfits specially designed for special occasions and events such as weddings. Halloween and Christmas outfits are some of the more popular occasions that people choose to dress their dogs in Santa outfits or princess gowns.

You will find pet cloths in most pet shops, and they are also available on the Internet. Just do a search for “pet clothing,” and you’ll be given hundreds of sites to select from. Check them out and seek the best deals.

Dog Clothes provides detailed information on Dog Clothes, Small Dog Clothes, Designer Dog Clothes, Dog Clothes Patterns and more. Dog Clothes is affiliated with Small Dog Collars. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marcus_Peterson

Tips For Raising A New Puppy

Josh V Writes: I just wanted to ask you if you could give me a few pointers that I could send on to my family because we just got a 6week old Border collie today (Tuesday) and I'm leaving for Toronto tomorrow morning. She is quite the energetic dog and it seems like my parents haven't really looked too much into detail about how to raise a puppy. I was just wondering if you could send a few pointers my way??

Answer:

Hey Josh. I've just listed random points as there are many to consider:

A. Never let the pup out of your sight. The longer the pup is doing something that you do not want him doing, the harder it will be to put a stop to the behavior.

B. Do not swamp it with toys. If there are always toys lying around, your pup will get bored of them and start looking for something else (furniture) to chew on.

C. You might want to think of buying a crate for the dog. (Night time, quiet time, anytime the dog is sleeping he should sleep in the crate. (After meals, pups will usually want to sleep)

D. When I brought Luther home, something that worked great for me was keeping him on a leash for the first three months. By doing this, you constantly know where your dog is, and you can monitor, his every move, therefore catching unwanted behavior and putting an immediate stop to it.

For house braking:

I am assuming that you have a house and will be therefore wanting to teach your dog to go to the bathroom in the yard:

Instead of plastering the floor with newspaper and rewarding the dog when he goes on the paper, just get whomever is watching him to take him outside every 30 mins. to one hour. (immediately after eating, or drinking.) By rewarding the dog for going to the bathroom on paper, you are confusing him. You are teaching him that it is ok to go on newspaper and as well as outside. For a dog that is a lot of info, just choose the yard method, it'll save you time in the end.

Most important thing of all: Do not punish your dog for something that he does not know is wrong! Bad habit to get into. I know having a pup can be very frustrating at times, remember they do not know what is right and what is wrong, therefore just be patient and attentive.

Praise your dog when he does something worth being praised for, eg. bathroom outside, being quiet in his crate.

If you need to punish your pup one very effective way to do this is:

Place one hand over the muzzle and the other over the back of the neck. This mimics the mother grabbing the pup. Gently exert pressure while uttering "no" in a meaningful voice.

Make sure the pup is exercised a lot! Border Collies are a very energetic dog and need to have some release or they will go crazy! Good luck, give your parents my email, they can email me anytime.

Josh V Writes:

One more question: if she starts biting stuff like the blanket or whatever, how should we discipline her?? Thanks again. See ya.

Answer:

One little trick that you can use is to: scent discriminate between what she can mess with and what she cant. To do this, just put a little dab of vanilla extract on all her toys. Over time with constant supervision, she will learn to deferintiate between what she can mess with and what she can't by the scent. If she bites anything you do not want her to bite, punish her in the same way, immediately using the above method.

http://www.dogsbydunk.com is your one stop destination for premium dog food and premium dog training. From great products, to great resources, dogsbydunk.com is a superior unique alternative that I hope you all take full advantage of!

How To Recognize A Respiratory Tract Ailment In Your Parrot

A respiratory tract ailment can be fatal to your parrot if left untreated. Find out how to recognize if your parrot is having problem with its breathing.

The most obvious indication that your parrot has a problem can be seen in their tail movement. You should barely be able to see the tail of your parrot moving. If the parrot’s tail is moving a lot, is very noticeable, and is labored, this may be a sign that there is a problem with its health.

If your parrot is having a hard time breathing because it has blocked nostrils, this could be a sign that your parrot has a respiratory tract ailment. You should check your parrot’s nostrils for discharge or even blockage.

It may be possible to relieve the blockage with medication. See your Vet for the best medication for your parrot. They will more than likely instruct you to hold your parrot on its back and put a drop of the medicine in each of its nostrils. If there is a lot discharge there, you can bathe the nostrils with warm water in order to remove the worst of the blockage before you start with the medicine.

Long-term cases can be difficult to cure, even when the parrot is treated with antibiotics. The parrots condition may seem to improve, but can worsen again if the parrot becomes stressed at all.

Since a sick parrot can get worse, seek veterinary advice as soon as possible. Describe the symptoms as clearly as possible and give a history of your parrot.

About The Author

Amy Barrett is the creator of the website http://www.parrotspage.com where it’s all about parrots. Find out if you have room in your life for one of these beautiful creatures.

5 Common Grooming Mistakes Made by Dog Owners

1. Clipping the quick when cutting nails.

Don’t be in a hurry to finish his nails even though your dog wants you to finish quickly. Take baby clips using a SHARP nail clipper (my preference is spring style or cat clippers for small dogs).

Don’t use a Dremel or other electronic/motororized tool unless you’ve had some training in using it. It's too easy to overcut.

If your dog has white nails, the quick should look pink. STOP clipping before you get there.

If your dog has dark nails, you should see a black circle in the clipped part of the nail. STOP clipping before you get there.

If you do draw blood, apply pressure and styptic powder. A product called QuikStop can be purchased at most pet stores. If you can’t control the bleeding, get to a veteranian or animal hospital immediately.

2. Getting shampoo in his eyes during baths.

Dogs love to shake their wet heads and it’s easy for shampoo to sting his eyes.

Buy some sterile ophthalmic ointment (at pet store or www.1800PetMeds.com) and dab in each eye before bathing.

If shampoo gets in his eyes, rinse with cool water or saline eyewash. Do NOT put more ointment in his eyes. If his eyes remain red or he’s squinting long after he’s dry, he needs a vet’s attention.

3. Causing electric clipper burn.

It looks like a rash and results from using overheated clipper blades or damaged blades.

Inspect your clippers before each use and replace missing or dull blades and blades with broken teeth.

If your dog is affected, he’ll try to scratch or lick the areas, which only worsens the irritation.

It’s a good idea to keep an Elizabethan collar on hand (or make one) for such problems as they prevent the dog from reaching irritated areas. Keep the area clean and use an antibiotic ointment on the skin until it heals.

4. Unintentionally encouraging allergic reactions.

Allergies seem to be on the rise and some dogs are more sensitive than others. If your dog is very itchy after a bath or his skin is red and irritated, it may be an allergic reaction. Try products with oatmeal or use all natural products. And always rinse thoroughly to prevent residue build-up.

If your dog develops a serious reaction such as hives, diarrhea or pinpoint-sized pupils, he needs immediate medical attention. If he’s just itchy, try different mild products until you find one that he likes.

You can work with a vet to pinpoint allergens but this a time-consuming and expensive process. I’d try various products first.

5. Leaving him unrestrained or unattended.

Dogs, especially those who hate being groomed, can try to make escapes by jumping off a table or off a lap. Serious injuries can result to small dogs.

Never leave a dog unattended. Groom him on the floor or restrain him if he’s on a table or in a sink. Create a barrier around him so he has no place to jumping off spot.

You can have a second person hold the dog while you wash him if you’re using an area too large to fence him in.

Be patient, stay calm and offer lots of praise as you groom and you’ll avoid most problems.

Louise Louis is a long-time dog person and creator of http://www.ToyBreeds.com

Puppy and Kitty Care

It's important to have the right pet supplies and knowledge for proper puppy care and kitty care. Just as a child's body is different from an adult's, a dog's or cat's body is very different when it's young. A young pet has special nutritional, physical and even mental needs, so a responsible owner must have the pet supplies needed before the little one joins the family.

During their first year, the most important pet supply to have on hand is food. It's well known that puppies and kittens burn calories and protein at a much higher rate than adults because of their accelerated growth. The reason why they have this accelerated growth is because it served their ancestors well in the wild. Back then, a young pup or cub would be easy prey, so they had to mature quickly and have offspring of their own to propagate the species. Make sure to buy from a reputable quality pet supply store and get the food that's made specifically for puppies and kittens.

Aside from food, the other pet supplies that are a necessity are dog toys and cat toys. In addition to physical growth, puppies and kittens learn things during their first year that stay with them for life. The first year is crucial in molding a cat's or dog's behavior, so it's important to interact with them. One of the best ways to interact with them is through playtime. Playing is good exercise for them (and you), and it teaches them that humans are friends and companions. Sadly, those pets abused during this time are often scarred for life, and have serious trust issues. Whatever pet toy you get, make sure it's not too small so that they won't swallow it. For puppies, a Kong dog toy is a good investment because it's durable and won't mess up your house. Playing "tug-o-war" with a rope puppy toy is a good way to build their strength and confidence, too. For kittens, try a cat toy with bright colors. It's important to get cat toys that will safely satisfy their natural curiosity.

Since house breaking and litter box training are essential, the proper pet supplies for this need to be on hand from day one. Get a small dog crate and hold your puppy in it overnight and for periods when you can't watch them. They instinctively don't want to go in their own area, so you can use that to your advantage. Take them straight from the dog crate to outside, and they'll eventually get the idea. For cats, be sure to get a quality litter box and give your cat their own space. Cats naturally want to dig when they eliminate, so just keep showing them the litter box after they eat. It might be a good idea to get a small pet crate for your cat as well if you plan on traveling with him or her. An extra safety tip for cat owners is to keep cats away from the dryer machine. Cats like being in cozy, closed off places, and they will jump in the dryer when your not looking, which can lead to disaster. With these pet supplies and the proper care, any puppy or kitten will grow to be a happy and healthy pet.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Little Pampered Babies where you can find Unique Baby Clothes and Toddler Clothing.

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems and How to Solve Them - Part 2

In part one of this 3-part instructional we pointed out that some canine behaviors are ingrained, while others are learned. We also highlighted successful ways to control excessive barking. In part 2 we will deal with effective techniques to stop biting.

Canine Behavior Problems: Biting

According to the U.S. Disease Control Center in Atlanta, Georgia, about 1,000,000 people in the United States are bitten by dogs every year. The majority of victims are children between the ages of 5 and 8; in most cases, the biting dogs were house pets.

Dogs bite for a variety of reasons. Dogs may bite or display threatening behavior when they are angry, afraid, agitated, over-excited, or when challenged or seeking to protect.

The first thing to do when confronted with biting dogs is to discern “why” the dog behaved aggressively. If the dog was being teased or felt threatened, the problem may not be with the dog. Instead, fault may lie with whomever or whatever teased him or made him feel threatened.

Some dogs bite or snap at their caregiver’s hands when the caregiver tries to take something away from them. According to Barbara Woodhouse, internationally known dog trainer, canine behavior expert, and author of Barbara Woodhouse’s Encyclopedia of Dogs & Puppies, the best cure for such aggressive behavior is to “return violence with violence.”

Effective Ways to Stop Biting Dogs

When the dog attempts to bite, the caregiver should act swiftly by suspending the dog off his front legs by his choke chain; at the same time, scold in a violent tone of voice, “No bite!” The dog should be allowed back on his front legs only after he shows signs of discomfort (usually within 10 seconds). Once subdued; caress and praise him.

This process should be repeated every time the dog attempts to bite; he must be forced to respect your authority. While this type correction may sound cruel, it is not. Curing the dog of biting using this means is much kinder than having the dog sentenced to death in the gas chamber because of injuries inflicted on someone he bit.

Inexperienced caregivers may have a difficult time correcting their dog this way; if that is the case, the help of an expert dog trainer should be sought.

Preventing Aggressive Behavior in Dogs that Leads to Biting

Some dogs are so naturally protective of their owner they attack anyone who approaches, without being given a command. This can be quite dangerous. Allowing a dog to lunge toward people could very well lead to other aggressive behaviors, such as biting.

One of the best methods to prevent this type aggressive behavior in dogs is to take the dog among crowds â€" muzzled if necessary. Get people to touch him (muzzled), and give him a sound scolding if he attempts to attack.

Another effective method is to get someone who trains dogs to snatch him from you and really shake him (by his choke chain) when he shows signs of vicious behavior. He must be defeated, and then praised for submitting.

What About Puppies that Bite?

Puppies are notorious for biting and nipping during play. One mistake people often make with puppies that bite is to let them get away with it. Caregivers often think such behavior is cute and believe the puppy will naturally grow out of it without intervention. The reality is that such “innocent” biting and nipping can become a learned bad habit, difficult to break once the puppy is older.

Caregivers should address nipping and biting early on, instead of waiting until the puppy has grown and the problem more difficult to correct. Puppies are not like children; they are growing dogs. And dogs need training and an understanding but firm, consistent hand to teach them what is acceptable and what is not. Correction methods for young puppies that bite are different than methods for grown dogs.

How to Handle Aggressive Behavior in Puppies

When a puppy bites hard enough to hurt he must be corrected firmly. Say “No bite!” in a firm tone. If that doesn't work, use what is called “the shakedown method,” which resembles what the mother dog does to her pup to keep order in the litter. Shake the puppy by catching hold of the loose skin of its neck on both sides under the ears. Repeat “No bite!”

Correcting aggressive behavior in puppies older than 12 weeks is done the following way: grab the puppy by the scruff of the neck with both hands, and lift him off his front feet, if necessary. Make the puppy look you straight in the face, and repeat “No bite!” If you sound angry enough, the puppy will understand.

This correction method must be consistent. If you permit a puppy to bite one time, but get annoyed and correct him the next, the puppy will become confused and will not learn effectively.

Puppies are especially likely to bite or nip children who play with them either for too long a period, or are too rough with them. When a puppy shows signs of being tired of being “mauled” during play, it is time to let the puppy rest. Put the puppy away in his box or pen, and instruct others to leave him alone and let him rest.

Under no circumstances slap a puppy or dog’s nose to discipline him; this is cruel, as well as ineffective. And always give plenty of love and praise for submissive behavior after correction has been administered.

At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. In part 3 of this 3-part instructional we discuss the problem of jumping. Read part 3, “How to Prevent Dogs and Puppies from Jumping up on People” at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com/category/dog-care-articles.com

©2006 Lori S. Anton
Savvy Dog Lover editor

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit www.savvy-dog-lovers.com â€" where the best bones are buried!

Attacking the Pit Bull Problem in Los Angeles-MuttShack Animal Rescue Launches Grassroots Campaign

Twenty-six percent of the dogs at the six Los Angeles Animal Services shelters are "Pit Bulls". American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, and Staffordshire Bull are various names used to describe the breed and any mix thereof.

Whatever name they go by, they refer to a breed that has been labeled ounce-for-ounce, the strongest dog in dogdom. These dogs have very adoptable traits like a good disposition, stability, and superior physical attributes but often these very characteristics are presented to provide justification for fighting them.

Owning a "Pit Bull" gives their guardians a badge of bravado. These dogs are considered to be "macho" and therefore many owners don't want to neuter and spay them resulting in many unplanned and accidental litters. Consequently, they are also the leading breed and breed mix in Los Angeles shelters.

According to the Villalobos Pit Bull Rescue, the fallout is devastating. According to them the pit bull population in the combined twelve shelters (six city shelters and six county shelters in Los Angeles) has now risen to 40% of all the dogs in shelters.

They say, "Approximately 10 pit bulls are brought in each day to each shelter. That's 120 pit bulls a day. Most are strays, tossed out like dirty laundry." They calculate, "At the end of a week the total comes to 840 pit bulls. Then, according to Animal Control records, only about 2 pit bulls a week get adopted. That means 838 pit bulls a week, die in local shelters." [Villabos Pit Bull Rescue: http://www.vrcpitbull.com.]

The MuttShack Animal Foster and Rescue Foundation, is dedicated to change this tragic statistic. "We need massive adoptions from shelters, a very aggressive spay and neuter program, and an inescapable dog ID’ and micro-chipping campaign," says the founder, Amanda St. John.

Shelter dogs are in a life and death competition with Breeders and Pet Stores for potential homes. Shelter dogs need a LifeLine to get their profiles out there. Pounds are filled with purebreds and gorgeous pit mixes, puppies and trained older dogs.

To promote the adoption of at risk pit bulls from Los Angeles Animal Services, MuttShack has put together a slide show that may easily be forwarded to friends by e-mail. It is a grassroots effort and the Pound Pit Bulls' only hope in this competitive pet market.

A viewer can pause the slideshow at any time, read information about the particular dog and find out where to visit him.

The link is updated daily with new dogs, and fresh information. MuttShack's Lifeline for LA Pit bulls can be found at http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_LA_Pit_Bulls]

"Please copy the LifeLine link and forward it to your friends, looking to adopt, or bail one out of the shelter. If you know someone who has a pit bull, or mix, forward the link so that they can get free sterilization and microchipping information!" said Ms. St. John. http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_LA_Pit_Bulls

Several organizations have come forward to offer FREE spay and neuter of any domesticated Pit Bull or pit-mix.

> In Los Angeles, Actors and Others For Animals have declared their mission to curb the problem by offering free Pit Bull spay/neuter surgeries. (Telephone 818-755-6045, or 818-755-6323. Visit www.actorsandothers.com.)

> The Pasadena Humane Society, are offering spay and neuter through their SNiP program. (Telephone 626-792-7151 x106 or http://www.phsspca.org/SNiP/index.htm)

Most dogs forever loose the families they love, because they lack a cheap six-dollar ID tag. A simple ID tag on every dog could save hundreds of dogs' lives. However, since collars can get pulled off during a rescue attempt, the soundest identification is a microchip. When a dog is micro-chipped and registered to a family, it reduces his chances of being lost. Most shelters and Vets provide micro-chipping services.

Microchipping also protects dogs from "bad guys". When owners are identifiable on a database, the dog is secure against being abused or used in pit bull fighting.

Spay and neuter posters in Spanish and in English can also be printed from the website at http:/www.muttshack.org/freespay.html.

MuttShack is asking everyone to print up copies of the poster, and to put them up at Pet Stores, Vets Offices, and animal related facilities, and put them local bulletin boards and coffee shops. Think it is a waste of time? - Consider this: Every poster put up and broadly circulated so far has resulted in an adoption!

When you find the dog of your choice and want to adopt a LAAS Pit Bull, there is no need for a home-check. According to Heidi Heubner, the LAAS Volunteer Coordinator, all the applicant’s information is collected and processed. Then the pet gets micro-chipped and sterilized before going to his new home. The Microchip is the new dog's security blanket. It will keep track of the owners if he ever turns up at the shelter.

There is a fee of course, but it is a fraction of what a pet store or breeder charges, and essentially covers the medical bills.

See LAAS' recent program in pit bull handling at http://www.muttshack.org/news-pitbull.html.

According to Pia Salk of 1-800-Save-A-Pet.com, adopting an adult Pit Bull is an instant friend for life. "Ask anybody who has adopted an adult dog, and they'll swear their bond with their rescued pal is as deep as they come. When you open your heart and your home to a dog that needs help, they really do show their appreciation for the rest of their life! No matter what circumstances brought them to the shelter or rescue group, most dogs for adoption are exceptionally affectionate and attentive pets and extremely loyal companions. But first you have to adopt one!" she says.

MuttShack sees abandoned dogs daily. A recent E-mail sent on behalf of the Linda Blair World Heart Foundation read. "Attached you will find a picture of Peetie. Peetie is a 9-month-old pit/boxer/dalmation mix that was rescued by Linda Blair. He had been used as "bait" in Pit bull fights. His ears had been cut half way off. You would think that this would make Peetie an unapproachable dog and aggressive. However it is quite the opposite. He is friendly, playful, trusting and loves to be petted even on the ears. He has all his shots and has been neutered, is house trained and is the best little boy!!! He loves dogs and people. He wants to be loved and he gives love. (He is not great around cats however.) We really need someone to foster him until he finds his new incredible family." Looking at his picture was just a validation of everything they said! Link to Peetie's photo at http://www.muttshack.org/news-pitbull.html.

About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501(c) 3 non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, and from the streets, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters.

Donations save lives. Visit animals online that are in danger of being put to sleep at http://www.muttshack.org. Join us in preventing animals from entering shelters that kill. Support Muttshack Animal Rescue at our secure site https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD.

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Rescue
http://www.muttshack.org

Animal Communicator

I have a business card burning a hole in my Rolodex. It’s from an animal communicator. Someone who allegedly interprets mental pictures from animals. I love my dog dearly. He communicates with very expressive eyes and I don’t seem to have much trouble” getting” him. But because I’m so attached to him I’ve been toying with the idea of going that step further to find out what’s really in his mind. So why don’t I?

Well. Some givens going into the situation. What goes on in dog’s heads is important to them. They’re not likely to give you a tip on the fifth at Santa Anita. They think about food, toys, other dogs. And although I’m not quite sure how the process works I don’t think it’s like Karnak the Magician where you can ask questions.

But back to why I don’t just call the number and set up an appointment.

Maybe I’m not sure I want to know what my dog thinks of me or what goes on in his head. After all he is privy to all our secrets.

I once read a story, supposedly true, about a cat that peed on his owner’s bed every Sunday morning and at no other time. His mommy called in an animal communicator who asked the cat why he peed on the bed every Sunday. The cat replied that when mommy left the house to go to Church some other woman came in with her husband and they both booted him out of the bedroom. So he took a leak just to screw with them.

This may be an urban legend like the poodle in the microwave. But it sure makes you think twice about animal ESP.

I wonder what my boy would say about us to total strangers.

“ My mommy drinks wine sometimes and gets sad when daddy goes out? Daddy looks at pictures of naked ladies on the Internet when mommy goes to yoga class. They watch way too much TV. It hurts my ears”.

And how do they say anything? Do they use words? How can they say they like peanut butter if they don’t know that peanut butter is called peanut butter. To them it’s a pill delivery product.

I know that my dog adores me. I believe it’s unconditional. But what if I found out that what he was really thinking as he was jumping up at me as I came through the door was “You jerk, you left me alone for five hours and I’ve got to pee like a racehorse.” Little though he is he has the heart of a lion if he thinks I’m being threatened. But what if what he really felt was “I can’t believe I’ve got to step up AGAIN to get between you and this weird looking bum. Don’t you know better than to open the door to just anyone!”

I’ve been racking my brain trying to think of some human benefit from the limited amount of interspecies communication we’ve had so far. We were able to train dolphins to mine harbors so I guess you could say that that benefits us. But weren’t some of them blown up in the process? So, not so good for them. What about poor KoKo. Have we treated gorillas any better since we discovered they could experience bereavement and sadness?

Ultimately, what it may come down to is that I love my dog, and all animals, precisely because I can’t communicate with him in any kind of human way. I don’t need to reason with him; make a case; persuade him; or be critiqued on my wardrobe. I tell him what I want him to do and sometimes he actually does it. He tells me what he needs and he gets it. We have a pretty good system. If it ain’t broke why fix it?

Mary Rosendale is the proud mama of Wally Barker. See his advice column on her blog http://theconstructedlife.blogs.com/clear_and_present When she's not tending to his every need she is a Holistic Life Coach with a unique Coaching service rooted in Buddhist psychology. Visit her on the web at http://www.TheConstructedlife.com If you can't play - what's the point?

Dog and Cat Behavior Consultations

Why Behavior Consultations? More than half of all pet owners experience behavior problems with theirs pets. Unfortunately, many times the early signs of a behavior problem may go unrecognized or little is done to try to treat the initial problem until it becomes more serious. Many pet owners simply put up with the problem behavior and suffer the consequences or, ultimately, have to give their pet away. Fortunately, if help is sought early enough and if an appropriate treatment plan is followed, often the behavior problem can be cured. What Is Involved? In order to make it easier and more affordable for our clients to address behavior problems before they get out of hand, Linda Mar Veterinary Hospital staff veterinarian Ilana Strubel, DVM, MA provides in-office behavior consultations. Consultations take approximately one hour and must be scheduled in advance. The presence of all family members over the age of 6 and any pet involved in the problem is requested so that any underlying dynamics contributing to the problem behavior can be identified. A comprehensive medical and behavioral history questionnaire is provided for the client to complete and return in advance of the appointment. In some cases, a videotape of the pet's problem behavior at home may also be requested. This information allows the doctor to become familiar with the presenting behavior problem so that she may best utilize the time spent with the patient and client during the consultation. During the appointment, the doctor will ask further questions pertinent to the history of the problem and form a tentative diagnosis. Once the diagnosis of the main problem is made, Dr. Strubel is able to provide a thorough explanation of the pet's behavior problem and a customized plan for solving it. If appropriate to the problem, the doctor will demonstrate the proper use and fitting of training collars and/or head halter. For all problems, handouts explaining the behavior and outlining steps for correcting it are provided to assist the client with implementing the treatment plan. If drug therapy is advised, it may be necessary to collect a blood sample for baseline values to help ensure the patient's safety and to avoid possible side effects. All animals given prescriptions for behavior medications will need to be closely monitored by the prescribing veterinarian. The cost of any medications or products prescribed during the appointment is not included in the consultation fee. The consultation fee includes two follow-up phone calls during the first few weeks after the consultation to assist with any problems or questions that may arise. It is advised that all behavior modification protocols be implemented slowly and precisely to ensure greater long-term success. Depending on the type of behavior problem it may be necessary to introduce the training program in stages, and a follow up visit in one to two months may be recommended. This can be scheduled with Dr. Strubel as a regular 20-minute office visit or as a full hour, if desired. Dr. Strubel may also consult with Board Certified Veterinary Behavior Specialists regarding more challenging behavior problems and assist in scheduling a referral if indicated. What Are The Behavior Consultant's Qualifications? Ilana Strubel, DVM, MA is a general practitioner with a special interest in behavioral medicine. Dr. Strubel received her Bachelor's degree in ethology (animal behavior), ecology, and evolution from the University of Illinois. She then earned a Master's degree in marine biology with a special focus on marine mammal behavior from Boston University. Dr. Strubel then returned to the University of Illinois where she completed her doctorate in veterinary medicine. Since 1995, Dr. Strubel has practiced small animal medicine and surgery. She has trained with the Behavior Service at the Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital at the University of California, Davis, and is currently a member of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

Does My Horse Need A Blanket?

Your horse needs a blanket because their natural oils and dirt that keep them warm in the wild are removed each time you brush or curry them. When you clip your horse, you then remove all of the additional warm hair. Most stables are not heated, and it is critical that you compensate for the loss of heat by using some sort of a blanket. A horse will begin to lose weight if not kept warm enough. Of course it is always important to feed more hay in the winter also.

If your horse is outside in very cold weather, you will need a strong turnout blanket for that time. It would be great if you could afford it, to have two blankets. One for indoors and one for out otherwise select a blanket that will work inside and out. An outdoor blanket must give your horse the freedom to move when he bucks, rolls and kicks.

Some types of Blankets to Consider

Fleece cooler/blankets can be used after a workout and your horse needs to dry off. Put the fleece cooler on to remove moisture. Fleece is a excellent material to wick off moisture and keep your horse dry especially if he is sweaty and the weather is cool outside. It will keep his body temperature more balanced. Wool coolers/blankets can be used for the same purpose. Wool cooler are a heavier material and will keep the horse warmer. Wool is also nice for those extra cold nights when you need a blanket liner underneath your winter blanket. They also work well after a workout. Stable Blankets work well for those nights when your horse is in his stall. They do not work well outdoors and are usually designed for indoor use only. Finally there are heavier styles of Winter Turnout Blankets that are durable, ripstop, weatherproof and breathable. These are workable for indoor and outdoor use.

What is the correct size of the Blanket for my Horse?

Just take a tape measure and measure from the middle of the chest to the tail, along the side. If your horse measures a 78 buy that size. If you want to be sure of the right fit buy the next size larger. But be cautious as every manufacturer is different. Some have smaller or larger cuts than others. So check before buying. Surcingles and legs straps are nice to have to keep your horse's blanket in place in the even they roll or lie down. But, it is important that they are not adjusted too tightly so that you horse cannot move around comfortably. There should be a hand's width that will fit between the horse's belly and the surcingle, tight enough so that they cannot catch a hoof.

Leg straps should not be tight and not so loose that they are low near the hocks. A horse's legs could easily become tangled in these. It is better to loop the leg straps around each other before connecting to the snap. Snap them to the opposite side.

Remember !!!! If in doubt check with someone with more experience to keep your horse safe and happy this winter !

Suzanne DeVries

Please visit my WEB SITE at http://www.adirondackhorsetack.com or my EBAY STORE at butterfly7171

The Borzoi: Wolf Hound of Russia

The Borzoi is a native of Russia. The appearance is elegant, tall and rather like that of a Greyhound with a silky longer coat. The original ancestor is most likely the dog known centuries ago as the Steppe Greyhound and the Borzoi retains many of the characteristics of this "sight hound". Russian nobility cherished this breed for its qualities of perseverance and endurance on the hunt. The Borzoi is a breed that would give chase, surround and worry the wolf until it could be brought down by the hunter.

The breed in the United States has become a favorite in the sport of Lure Coursing. Of course it is also well known as an exotic looking breed in the Conformation ring, being a member of the Hound Group. In fact it retains the hound instinct and is being used more and more in the western states as a natural coyote hunter.

The Borzoi can have a coat of many colors, there are no specific restrictions. The coat should be thick and luxurious except for the face and the fronts of the legs which should be smooth. This is a breed that should have the appearance of refined elegance and its manner and movement should be graceful and balanced. The ears are fold over and the muzzle should have a distinct "Roman nose" appearance. The dog is tall (26 to 28 inches at the withers) and should have a very deep chest. Loins should have a distinctive arch, so that the dog can run with great speed and length of stride at a gallop. This ability is of course necessary because of the original function to hunt and bring to bay the wolves of ancient Russia. Furthermore this type of build allows for easy flexibility for quick turns. Form should follow function and in this case, regardless of the picture of beauty that this dog presents, it should be a dog which is able to carry out its original purpose. The total picture of this exotic looking breed should be that of aristocratic elegance coupled with especially graceful and free-flowing movement.

The Borzoi is not often considered as a pet. One can often see the Borzoi pictured in magazine photos as a hound walking with a fabulously dressed lady...but in truth it is not a dog for the inexperienced owner. It does have a streak of independence, as do most hounds. Many hound breeds were bred originally to run with a pack and therefore do not have the typical temperament of working breeds that functioned with humans as their pack leader. The Borzoi should be trained early or he will be aloof and will not regard his owner as his Master. Furthermore they have the strongly rooted instinct to give chase and should be kept confined when outside. Free exercise in a fenced in enclosure is preferable to daily walks, as this dog needs a great deal of exercise . He will not be satisfactory as a pet in an apartment situation.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

7 Tips to Keep Fido Safe on Halloween

1. NEVER leave Fido alone outside

There are malicious youngsters (and adults) who could do anything from taunting him to killing him as a Satanist sacrifice. Sorry to sound so grim, but this night does bring out the worst in many.

2. Patrol your yard and home

Watch especially for tin foil and cellophane candy wrappers. Dogs love these, but they can get stuck in his digestive tract and cause serious injury.

3. Keep candles out of his reach.

If you have candles in a pumpkin, make certain it is high enough to be out of Fido's reach. It's easy for a swinging canine tail to knock one over.

4. Make sure costumes are safe for him

If you put Fido in a costume (and I do with my dog), make certain --

a) any mask has eye holes big enough so he has peripheral vision;

b) his costume is not constricting his movement including his ability to go the bathroom;

c) he can breathe and bark in it; and d) there are no breakable, chewable pieces.

5. Don't give him chocolate

No matter how much he begs for it, never give Fido chocolate. It's poisonous. If your dog does pick up something he shouldn't, call the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435. Each call is $50.

6. Isolate him if he's nervous

If your dog is nervous, afraid of commotion or shy, keep in him a separate room away from the trick-or-treaters and other visitors. Strangers - especially ones in weird costumes - can frighten any dog.

7. Open your door carefully

If you do have Fido with you, don't give him the opportunity to bolt out the front door when you open it. Hold him, leash him or keep him a crate.

Keep these few tips in mind and you'll both have a safe and sane Halloween.

Louise Louis is a certified canine specialist and creator of the popular website on small dogs, http://www.ToyBreeds.com

How To Do Cat Litter Box Retraining

Cats stop using the cat litter box for a number of reasons. Once you discover the reason why and correct it, you may need to re-train your cat to use her box again. Despite what you think, you can train a cat! For most cats, it's not hard. They instinctively want to use a place with sand-like material to do their business. To re-train your cat back to her good litter box habits, confine her to one room. It's hard to say exactly for how long, but most cats are back in the habit within a week. Pick a nice sunny room for kitty. Set up a clean cat litter box, food, water, toys, and bedding for her to sleep on. Be sure to put her food and water as far away from her litter box as possible. Keep kitty in this room while you're gone. Many cat owners purchase kitty DVDs for their cat to watch all day long while they're gone. These DVDs feature birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and other critters that dart around. You can set up the DVD to play in a continuous loop all day long. These videos are also available in VHS tape format. Let kitty out under your supervision. If she looks like she's heading for her favorite corner to make an illegal dump, get her back to her room immediately, and place her in the cat litter box. If she uses it, praise her. Generally, cats "get it" very quickly. For one thing, they get lonely being in a room by themselves. For another, it's a cat's natural inclination to use a litter box. As long as you've corrected the source of her problem with the litter box, she'll go back to using it. If you can't let your cat out and supervise her, be sure to visit kitty often. Sit in the room with her, and keep her company. Watch the DVD with her! Confinement is not cruel if it's done properly. If your cat won't use the litter box during her confinement period, then the cat urine odor damage is limited to one room. If after a few days, your cat is still not using her cat litter box, please consult with your vet. There may a deeper issue that you simply can't tell from observation.

Shih Tzu - Teaching Your Shih Tzu To Use A Collar And A Lead

Walking on a collar and lead is an important skill that every shih tzu must learn. Even the best trained shih tzu should never be taken outside the home or yard without a sturdy collar and leash.

Even if your shih tzu is trained perfectly to go off lead, accidents and distractions do happen, and a collar, with proper identification attached, is the best way to be sure you will get your beloved companion back.

Of course before you can teach your new shih tzu puppy to accept a leash, he or she must first learn to accept wearing a collar. The first step is to choose a collar that fits the shih tzu properly. It is important to measure the shih tzu puppy’s neck, and to choose a collar size accordingly. After the collar has been put on the shih tzu puppy, simply let him or her get used to it. It is not unusual for a shih tzu puppy to try to pull on the collar, whine, roll or squirm when first introduced to a collar.

The best strategy is to simply ignore the shih tzu puppy and let him or her get used to the collar. It is a mistake to either punish the shih tzu for playing with the collar or to encourage the behavior. Distracting the shih tzu puppy often helps, and playing with a favorite toy, or eating some favorite treats, can help the shih tzu puppy quickly forget that he or she is wearing this strange piece of equipment.

After the shih tzu has learned to accept the collar, try adding the leash. Hook the leash to the collar and simply sit and watch the shih tzu puppy. Obviously, this should only be done either in the house or in a confined outdoor area. The shih tzu puppy should be allowed to drag the leash around on its own, but of course the owner should keep a close eye on the shih tzu puppy to ensure that the leash does not become snagged or hung up on anything.

At first, the leash should only be left on for a few minutes at a time. It is a good idea to attach the leash at mealtimes, playtime and other positive times in the life of the shih tzu puppy. That way the shih tzu puppy will begin to associate the leash with good things and look forward to it. If the shih tzu puppy shows a high degree of fear of the leash, it is a good idea to place it next to the food bowl for awhile to let him get used to it slowly. Eventually, he will come to understand that the leash is nothing to be afraid of.

After the shih tzu puppy is comfortable with walking around the house wearing the leash, it is time for you to pick up the end of the leash for a few minutes. You should not try to walk the shih tzu puppy on the leash; simply hold the end of the leash and follow the shih tzu puppy around as he or she walks around. You should try to avoid situations where the leash becomes taut, and any pulling or straining on the leash should be avoided. It is fine for the shih tzu puppy to sit down. Try a few games with the collar and lead. For instance, back up and encourage the shih tzu puppy to walk toward you. Don’t drag the shih tzu puppy forward, simply encourage him to come to you. If he does, praise him profusely and reward him with a food treat or toy. You should always strive to make all the time spent on the leash as pleasant as possible.

It is important to give the shih tzu puppy plenty of practice in getting used to walking on the leash in the home. It is best to do plenty of work in the home, since it is a safe environment with few distractions. After the shih tzu puppy is comfortable walking indoors on a leash, it is time to start going outside, beginning of course in a small, enclosed area like a fenced yard. After the shih tzu puppy has mastered walking calmly outdoors on a leash, it is time to visit some places where there are more distractions. You may want to start with a place like a neighbor’s yard. Walking your new shih tzu puppy around the neighborhood is a good way to introduce your neighbors to the new shih tzu puppy, while giving the shih tzu puppy valuable experience in avoiding distractions and focusing on his leash training.

Shih tzu puppies sometimes develop bad habits with their leashes, such as biting or chewing on the leash. To discourage this type of behavior, try applying a little bit of bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or similar substance (just make sure the substance you use is not toxic to dogs). This strategy usually convinces shih tzu puppies that chewing the leash is a bad idea.

Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Understanding Canine Hip Dysplasia and How to Prevent It

Canine hip dysplasia is a genetic issue that starts to appear from the ages of 4 to 12 months. Not all puppies in a litter will develop it, though if your dog has canine hip dysplasia, she should not be bred.

Larger breed dogs have a higher risk of developing hip dysplasia, due to the greater weight these joints will have to bear. But it's important to realize that small dogs can be affected also. Large breed dogs at risk include rottweilers, german shephards, golden retrievers, dalmations, and blood hounds.

Canine hip dysplasia affects the ball and socket joint of the hip. The head of the large bone in the dog's leg doesn't fit snugly into the hip socket. The problem is that the socket itself is not well developed, and it creates a lot of stress on the joint. The muscles don't develop as quickly as the bone grows, and a situation is created where the weight the joint has to bear is greater than the capacity of the ligaments, tendons, and muscles around the joint. Thus joint instability develops. This in turn leads to a greater wear and tear than the joint would normally experience.

Canine hip dysplasia ranges from mild to moderate. In mild cases, the space between the joints is greater than normal and the ball at the top of the hip bone is part way out of its socket. Fortunately, in mild cases, there are no associated arthritic changes in the joint.

In moderate canine hip dysplasia, the top part of the normally rounded hip bone begins to flatten, and it sits only loosely in the joint. Bone spurs begin to develop, and arthritic changes start to happen.

Unfortunately, in severe hip dysplasia, there is definite arthritis present. And once arthritis appears in the joint, the condition is irreversible. In the severe cases such as this, the hip bone is completely out of the joint. The silver lining is, however, that not all dogs with hip dysplasia and arthritis will become lame. Some may become lame as puppies, some may not ever become lame.

Symptoms of hip dysplasia include:

* walking with a limp
* a swaying gait
* bunny hopping when running
* difficulty in the back legs when getting up
* pain in the hip
* when the puppy is lying on its back, its back legs may not extend towards the front legs without pain

The only way to find out if your dog definitely has hip dysplasia is if he has an x-ray by a vet. This normally means the dog will have to be heavily sedated, or go under anaesthetic.

Tips To Prevent Canine Hip Dysplasia

* Don't feed a growing dog a diet too high in calories. It's important that the growing dog's nutritional needs are met, but excessive weight, and rapid weight gain, create more of a load for the joints to bear. If a dog is genetically predisposed to hip dysplasia, this can delay the beginning of symptoms, or reduce the chance of it developing into a more severe form.

* Be careful about the type of exercise growing dogs get. Jumping up and down from heights, and standing on their back legs, such as when they stand against a fence or window to look over it, can aggravate the joints whilst they are growing quickly.

* Buy dogs from a reputable breeder. If one parent dog has hip dysplasia, the risk of it occurring in the litter is doubled. Good breeders take care to prevent this situation from occurring. The pedigrees of dogs can be checked to see whether they have been certified as normal by the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (OFA) in the US. Their website is www.offa.org

Other organizations that check for markers of hip normalcy in dogs are PennHip and the GDC (Genetic Disease Control in Animals). Large breed dogs have a greater chance of developing hip dysplasia, and prospective owners would be wise to take this precaution.

References: J Griffin and L Carlson, Dog Owners Home Veterinary Handbook

Whilst large breed dogs are more susceptible to canine hip dysplasia, buying from a reputable breeder can prevent this developing. Find out more about some of these loveable breeds here at The Dogs Bone: http://www.thedogsbone.com/ Large breed dog articles, with photos, include these on the bloodhound dog, and the dalamation breed.

Choosing a Horse Trailer

Whether you are looking to buy a new horse trailer or a used one, it's easy to be influenced by fancy options and shiny construction materials. But, for a horse owner who wants to promote safe and stress free hauling for the horse, choosing a trailer from the horse's point of view is very important. Since many horse trailers are built to appeal to the human perspective, this may not be as easy as one may think. Considering the nature of the horse as a species, it's a minor miracle that our equine friends get into a trailer at all. Horses are creatures of the prairie who are designed for life in wide open spaces. Because they are prey animals, they have a highly developed "flight or fight" response. When danger threatens, horses run away. That is how they survive. Feral horses who don't run fast enough end up as dinner! They also have to watch their footing so they don't fall into a hole or quicksand! Whenever we deal with a horse, we have to consider this flight response and reluctance to step on suspicious ground in our training. Because a horse trailer is small, dark, and shaky, it goes against the horses' very nature, but because horses are also trainable, they learn to put their natural fears aside and do the crazy things we ask them to do. However, even if they do what we ask, it may not be comfortable for them, and they can suffer stress in ways that we don't even notice. It's easy to notice when the horse won't load, but it's less obvious that illness and some injuries can be caused by design features in a trailer that make trailering more stressful for the horse. Some trailering problems have become so commonplace that people just accept them as part of the process. Things like breaking halters and loading and unloading problems are some of those "acceptable" incidents that don't need to happen. Other problems like shipping fever, dehydration, colic, and even the acute stress of injury can be prevented by a stress free trailering environment. Stress can be defined as an external stimulus which is beyond the control of the animal. When a horse is exposed to stress, the autonomic nervous system kicks in to physically prepare the animal to react to the stress. Heart rate elevates, adrenaline and epinephrine are secreted, and other bodily functions such as hormone levels, change to help the animal survive. For the horse, the reaction is to run away to avoid the object of the stress and the system returns to normal, so therefore, this system works in the horse's natural environment. However, if the horse cannot escape the object of stress over a long period of time, the health of the horse begins to suffer. The chronic stress can have a negative impact by changing the immune functions that can predispose the animal to disease. Putting a horse in a trailer goes against it's very instinct. He cannot get away from the stress of this small enclosed box. He is also put at risk of injury from the trailer itself or the possibility of a traffic accident. Whether your horse is a pet, or you only think of your horse as an investment or a tool, avoiding illness and injury can save you money and heartbreak, and at the very least, can actually improve his performance. Of course, horses travel all the time without incident, and trailering can be a safe and enjoyable experience. Buying the safest horse trailer will increase your chances of arriving at your destination with a healthy, happy horse. Manufacturers must build horse trailers to conform to the requirements of the road, but because there are no industry or government regulations concerning the safety of the horse, there are wide differences in horse trailers. Look at your prospective trailer from the horse's point of view. What does the horse want? Room and light, good ventilation, and safety in design. Room and light: An average sized horse ( 15.1h - 16.3h) needs about 10 feet of usable length to be comfortable. A larger horse may even need more. A horse needs to be able to spread his legs for steadiness, but is also important that he be able to use his head and neck freely for balance. A light colored interior and lots of windows or slats will make the trailer much more inviting and less claustrophobic. Good ventilation is important for the horse's respiratory health and to control the temperature and environment of the trailer. Hay dust and noxious gasses from manure and urine compromises the horse's respiratory system and predisposes him to diseases such a shipping fever. Roof vents will remove contaminated and/or hot air from the trailer. A light colored exterior, especially the roof, will make the trailer cooler in hot weather. Safety in design: There should be nothing sticking out to harm the horse in anyway. Tie rings, and latches should fold flat against the wall. All center posts and dividers should quick release, but should be strong enough to not break apart until you can make the decision. (Exception - dividers should come up and out if a horse would get under it.) No sharp edges anywhere. All parts of the trailer should be strong enough to hold up to the largest, strongest horse who will be hauled in it. Ramps should be low to the ground and not slippery. It should be possible to reach every horse individually in the event of an emergency. (This is a special problem with many slant load trailers.) Butt and chest bars should quick release. Safety in design also includes road safety. All brakes and lights should be in perfect working order and the emergency breakaway brake battery should be charged. Safety chains on tag-along trailers must be crossed underneath, and ball hitch gooseneck hitches should also have safety chains or cables. Tires should be inflated to the recommended capacity, and rubber torsion suspension will not only reduce road shock for the horse, but will be an added safety feature if the event of a flat tire. It is most important that a tag-along trailer be hitched to a frame mounted Class III or Class IV hitch, and that the trailer be towed in a level position. Whether you are towing a gooseneck or a tag-along trailer, you must have a properly rated tow vehicle to insure your own safety.

Common Signs of Arthritis in Dogs - Overview of Dog Arthritis Medications and Supplements

Unfortunately, arthritis in dogs is about as common as it is in people. It may range from mild to moderate or severe. If your dog is overweight, the extra pressure on joints can exacerbate the problem. And, as with humans, there may be joint cartilage damage. Fortunately there are some dog arthritis medications, both over-the-counter and prescriptions, as well as nutritional supplements, that can help make your dog feel better. There are also some physical aids that can assist your arthritic pet in getting around. Common Signs of Arthritis in Dogs You dog may experience one or more of the following symptoms: * Difficulty in getting up * Limping, especially after exercise * Walking slower than normal or a change in gait * Difficulty in jumping or climbing stairs, or a hard time squatting to do his business. Treating Dog Arthritis: Arthritis Medication and Aspirin for Dogs It is always best to see your vet to get a proper diagnosis. He or she may prescribe one or more anti-inflammatory medications or pain relievers. You can also get special non-prescription canine aspirin for dogs with arthritis to help relieve their joint pain. Canine aspirin can help reduce inflammation and relieve pain. Glucosamine and Other Arthritis Supplements for Dogs Some people have found success in reducing their dog's discomfort and improving their mobility by giving them supplements of glucosamine, chondroitin and MSM. Fatty acid supplements can also be helpful in reducing inflammation by helping to lubricate the joints and improve joint health. Help Your Dog Lose Weight Arthritis in dogs, as with people, can be exasperated by extra weight. If your dog is overweight, help him lose excess pounds by reducing calorie intake and giving him low impact exercise such as leash walks and swimming. Physical Aids for Your Arthritic Dog *An elevated dog feeder can help your dog so he doesn't have to bend over to eat. or drink. *A pet ramp can help your dog get into the car or on the bed. * A dog harness versus a collar is gentler on the neck and back. *An orthopedic bed provides even support and reduces pressure on joints. With a little extra care, your arthritic dog can still live an active life.

Techniques in House Training your Dog

When scolding your dog for doing the toilet on the carpet remember that we were once young and did not use the proper toilet either. Your dog needs to be house trained, and this can be done in a few easy steps, but over a long period.

Dog house training may be one of the hardest training techniques as it is the one that requires the most attentiveness and work. You have to be able to read your dog's body signals, as he cannot tell you when he needs the toilet. Many people make the mistake of assuming that their dog will bark when he needs the go, sometimes they are lucky to find a dog that will but believe me there are many out there who don't and accidents are found all over the house!

Dog house training requires a few simple steps, but as I said but they are time consuming ones. Firstly I would recommend putting newspaper in front of the door, that way if you see him doing an accident in the house you can quickly life him there and he will realize that if he needs to go and your not there to let him he has to do it on paper.

The next thing you need to know when dog house training is most dogs when they need the toilet will start to get restless and stat sniffing around, this is when you pick them up and take them outside, when they are really young you should take him outside at least once every hour. When you take them outside you can say things like “do the toilet” or “do your business” or whatever command you want to use for this training session. Once they have done the toilet you must give them lots of affection outside straight away (of course it's best to wait until they are done) They will soon come to realize that outside is the place to do the toilet and will after some time start asking to go out.

There are hundreds of books available on dog house training all of which use different techniques and routines. No dog is going to know straight away that outside is the place to do the toilet, they have to learn and you have to teach them (unless you don't mind accidents all over the place) Oh and don't forget to scoop!!

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

For more information about training your dog, visit Dog Training

A Dog Is For Life Not Just For Christmas

My family run an animal sanctuary in Birmingham, England. Even though we love what we do, we feel that some people need to realise that a pet should be a long term commitment. They should not be seen as just a bit of fun which they can then get rid of when they get bored.

Many people arrive at the animal sanctuary with their pets, which are mainly dogs, with many excuses as to why they are no longer able to look after or care for them. I am sure many of their reasons are valid but am also aware that many others are just an excuse to offload them.

The excuses they give are varied:

I have recently divorced from my husband and can no longer afford to keep this dog as a pet

The dog has started to bite my children

The dog is too difficult to handle and is destroying my furniture

We have recently moved into a flat. One of their rules is that no animals can live in these flats

The dog barks to much and it is upsetting the neighbours

Our other animals do not like the dog

The dog is affecting my health

I am too ill to look after my dog

It is not our role to question these reasons but what we then need to do is to find another suitable home for the dogs. This is easier said than done as we need to ensure that the new owners will be able to care for them, for hopefully the duration of their life.

We also keep many of the dogs as our own pets, especially the ones which nobody else seems to want. One such dog is called Cassie. She is full of life and has been ill treated it seems when she was a puppy. Half of her left ear is missing and she is seemingly quite afraid of men.

Cassie is need of a huge amount of care and attention. She can be too lively at times which is possibly why three people who attempted to re-home her, have bought her back. She is not aggressive in any way but does tend to jump up at people.

What we did with Cassie and what we will continue to do, is to give her lots of love but also a little bit of training of what is good and what is not acceptable. It takes a long time, but she is now able to understand that the jumping is not wanted and that she needs to chill out at times.

Cassie is turning into a wonderful dog to have around the house and now feels for the first time as part of a family.

With a little more patience most other dogs can turn out this way. This is why we want more people to take more responsibility and to give their animals more of a chance to settle into their homes, and to get used to a new set of rules.

Having animals as pets can be very rewarding, nearly as rewarding as having a child. A dog however will rarely answer you back.

If you are having problems with your animals you can always phone up animal sanctuaries for advice and to hear about possible solutions. The people who work there are animal lovers and will help you as much as they can.

If you are unable to continue looking after the pet, the sanctuary should be able to take them off you.

Stephen Hill helps to promote a number of websites including:

stuttering

guide to playing poker

quit smoking tips

Canine Dogs and Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety problems are diagnosed in around 15% of all behavioural cases. When left alone, most dogs will find a familiar spot and go to sleep. However, a dog when suffering from separation anxiety may become extremely anxious. Not understanding where you or your family have gone or if you will ever return, this dog may exhibit behaviour which can include chewing, barking, salivating, urinating, defecating, vomiting or escape behaviour such as chewing through walls, scratching through doors or exit points, breaking out of cages or trying to dig their way out of gardens and enclosures.

In some cases, the dog can become extremely ill, stop eating, or suffer from depression. I often find single dogs kept in kennels can become morose or lethargic. This can be a major problem with some of our working dogs who are often kennelled and therefore do suffer accordingly. I personally believe that if you intend to kennel your dog then you really should have more than one dog in that environment.

Dogs are conspecific that means that they can generally only form a true pack with their own kind, They do create a loose pack type alliance with us and are integrated into our family unit, however that normally does not happen when dogs are not allowed indoors and are restricted to a kennelled area. These dogs do need the companionship and company of other dogs when in this situation. If we were to look at it in human terms, it would be equivalent of solitary confinement.

Possible Causes

Factors at the root of Separation Anxiety can include, genetics, insufficient early learning and handling, lack of socialisation and owner behaviour, sometimes we reinforce an overbonding relationship that causes the dog stress when we are not around. This type of dog will follow you everywhere and that includes the toilet. We can often exacerbate the problem by making a big scene when we leave. Was it Shakespeare that wrote, “parting is such sweet sorrow, That I shall say good night till it be morrow”.?

Your dog is a social, pack animal that relies on others for individual protection, it finds safety in numbers, and will feel ostracised from the pack if not allowed to mix freely with its extended family, which includes humans and other dogs. In wolf packs, an individual that is forced to leave the pack will often die if it cannot join another pack. Often these dogs are males that have been usurped from the Alpha position or have challenged for top position and failed. Making it unlikely to be accepted into another pack and will be unable to hunt as effectively on its own.

Dogs retain vestigial wolf characteristics, is it therefore any wonder they feel anxious in when placed in these situations? Dogs that lack confidence, due to over bonding, under socialisation, or lack of training in basic obedience, mistreatment in the past, long confinements or dogs that have been abandoned or placed in rescue centres are most likely to exhibit behaviours relating to separation anxiety.

Solution and Treatment

• No long goodbyes
When it is time to leave, just leave. Do not say a big and drawn out "Good bye" to your dog. In fact, ignore your dog for five minutes before you go. Paying too much attention will make your dog feel more insecure when that attention is abruptly withdrawn. You may wish to use a herbal type anxiety reducer such as Dr Bach’s rescue remedy, you can get this in any good chemist 4 drops a day in their food, and a DAP diffuser you can get this from your Vets. It plugs in the wall socket and gives out calming pheromones. DAP means Dog Appeasing Pheromone, the clever little scientists have isolated the pheromone that the nursing mother gives out to calm the little pups when she is feeding them, and have created a chemical mimic These combined can help to take the edge of the anxiety. Always discuss any herbal or natural remedies or treatment with your Vet.

• Distractions are the key
Prepare a "Good-Bye" bone. These are hollow cheese or meat filled bones purchased from the pet shop, or it could be a Kong. When it is empty, fill it with grated cheese, peanut butter, or other things your dog really likes. You can even make up a thick soup type mixture, fill the hollow bones with these and freeze, put it away and only take it out when you leave each day. Place it near your dog just before you close the door. When you arrive back home put the bone away. The bone only comes out when you leave. when it gets low then poke out the contents and refill. You are distracting your dog with something that he will find interesting enough to concentrate on and will ignore your leaving, he should appreciate the bone so much that he will look forward to it coming out instead of getting upset with your leaving. You can also get puzzle type activity cubes or balls these are meant to be filled with dried kibble or treats, the dog has to manipulate these to get bits of treat out .Some are quite difficult to use giving the dog lots to work at rather than thinking about your departure. Once again, only give this to your dog when you are leaving and take away when you return.

• Crate Train
Confining your dog during your times of absence has two positive results. First, a dog who is confined crate cannot do damage to your home. Secondly, a crate, when properly introduced, will act as a safe and comfortable den where the dog can relax. Limiting his movement also acts as an anxiety reducer for most dogs. However, dogs should not be locked in crates for long periods maximum during the day should be 2/3 hours and certainly only on rare occasions not every day.

• Exercise Your Dog
A dog that is lacking exercise is more likely to have stress and tension. Tiring a dog out with a long walk, run or with play goes a long way in reducing stress and anxiety.

• Leave the Radio On Tune a radio to a talk station; not music, put it on in a room you are often in but not in the same room as the dog, and close the door. I use LBC 97.3 as the preferred station though of course not everyone can receive this. The dog will hear the human voices from another room and may not feel so alone. Some owners tape record their own voices and play the recording rather than the radio program. Dogs know the sound of your voice. This need only be a couple of hours long.

• Build up a routine
The hardest time for dogs is immediately after you leave. Their anxious, frantic, and occasionally destructive behaviour generally happens inside the first hour. You need to modify your dog's behaviour through reinforcement training and behavioural modification. Leave your dog either in or out of the crate; get ready to leave, put your coat on or whatever routine you have when you leave, walk out as normal, come back after one minute greet your dog calmly tell him to sit, when he does, reinforce the behaviour with a food treat he enjoys.

Wait a few minutes and then repeat the exercise, this time remaining outside a few minutes longer. Continue practicing leaving and returning over the next couple of weeks, This has the effect of desensitising you dog to your exits and it will not know the length of the separation.

• Leadership is Vital
When a dog has a strong consistent leader, it has a calming effect on him. He feels safe and taken care of. In the absence of a strong leader, your dog feels obligated to assume that position in the social hierarchy of the family pack. Since a leader must control all that goes on, his inability to control you leaving causes him stress and anxiety. They sometimes exhibit dominant behaviour to try to stop owners from leaving. Obedience training and * NILIF techniques is normally the best methods of establishing yourself as a beneficial and strong leader.

Consistency is the key. You are responsible for providing food and shelter. You also have the responsibility of supplying an environment whereby the dog feels safe and secure. Leadership plays a part. lack of consistency and over-bonding can be a cause and effect of separation anxiety, though it must be said other factors may also play their part. Sometimes you may need to get another dog for company and comfort for you existing pet, especially if the symptoms are severe. Sometimes you may have to rehome the dog, as your lifestyle does not allow for a happy and contented pet and in both your best interests, this should be considered.

The NILIF technique mentioned here will be in a future article called “The Pushy Dog”

Stan Rawlinson

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times.

He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers

Dogs - Choosing The Right Breeder

The Right Breeder Dogs are considered as man's best friend. Deciding to own one whether it is big or small involves a lot of responsibility. It is not just about feeding it but includes other chores such as grooming, watching its health and diet, cleaning up after it and most importantly, giving it some tender loving care. There are many places one can get a dog such as a kennel or the pet store but if one wants to get a pure bred animal, one must seek a reputable breeder to get the best results. Finding the right breeder for the dog depends on the breed that one selects. Professional breeders do not breed frequently and will only do so when a pair is found to be healthy and temperament that will insure the birth of also healthy offspring. Breeders will also breed only when a sufficient number of homes have been evaluated and deemed appropriate. Given that there is no standard as to what a standard breeder is, one should do research by asking people and interviewing as many breeders as possible before making a decision. There are many categories of the type of breeders in the market and by knowing which one is the best and understanding the consequences; this will make all the difference of the type of offspring that will be produced. The ideal breeder should have the pair of dogs tested for every possible disease as well as have all the information regarding the pair's ancestors and health records on file. Should a breeder find no problem in the history of the pair, one must still ask details to be sure. This is one sign that shows the breeder the interest of a potential owner of such a magnificent and smart animal. One can also ask the people who have be given offspring's in the past to check if there were any problems since the breeder maintains a close relationship with these dog owners. Reputable breeders have certain requirements that one must have before qualifying as a potential dog owner. These are usually in the form of written contracts or guarantees with a spay or neuter requirement that limits the registration of the puppies. This is done both for the protection of the owner as well to control a possible overpopulation problem. The person who wants a dog must have a secured backyard and attend certain classes such a puppy kindergarten to be familiar with the challenges one will face come the time the dog has been given. The requirements needed by the breeder is not to delay the process of giving one a dog but to ensure that the person is aware of what will happen as a dog owner and the responsibilities that come with it as well as make sure that the puppies will have good homes. This is what makes responsible breeders different from others who are not since these people are not concerned about the health or welfare of the dogs but are just in it to earn money. Once a person is able to find the ideal breeder, the waiting does not end there. Since the demand for the breeder's dogs are well sought after due to the selective nature of the breeding practices, the newborn pups will still have to be raised with the breeder and will only be released when a number of pre-screened homes have been found. If one does the all the research, it is possible that one will qualify as part of that list. One of the most critical factors in identifying a good breeder aside from the health and food given is the condition of the mother after birth and how well are the puppies taken cared of. The best way to do this is if the breeder is nearby so one can visit the place from time to time and monitor the condition of the puppies. Another good quality of a responsible breeder is the voluntary assistance provided to the owners of the puppies. If the placement of the puppy did not work out as hoped with a certain owner, the breeder can require the person to return the puppy and provide it with a better home since the life of the puppies is the responsibility of the breeder throughout the dog's life.

How to Keep Your Boxer - or any Dog - Healthy...

Feed him a balanced diet.

Additional tips from owners include:

- Give an occasional yogurt treat

- Ask your vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!

- Keep him comfortable so his immune system can remain strong.

- Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather and thus must be kept a housedog. His shortened muzzle also makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for him.

- Give Boxers lots of exercise and regularly.

- Remember that he is a big and strong breed and requires physical outlets for his boundless energy and high play/prey drive.

- Walk them three times a day or have play sessions. Provide plenty of space for them to bounce around. You want to keep their spirit up and not break it or they won´t be the dogs you fall in love with in the first place. Healthy and happy Boxers are a joy to live with.

- Make a breeder your friend.

- Keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed. Any Boxer breeder, for that matter, can be an invaluable ally to you throughout your Boxer\'s life.

- Guard your Boxer from fleas.

- Your Boxer has fleas if you find black specks in the fur or fleabite marks on the skin. A tip given by an owner is to give your Boxer garlic daily to prevent fleas.

- Boxers catch fleas from other animals. It is an every day problem that, at some time or another, you can expect to encounter in your Boxer.

- The fleas only go to the Boxer to feed on its blood.

- Fleas mostly live and multiply in your home. The comfortable living - central heating, double-glazing and, best of all, the fitted carpet - we create for ourselves and our Boxers also work best for the fleas.

- De-worm your puppy every month and your adult Boxer, every six months.

Daniel Lesser
Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com/keeping-your-dog-healthy.php

Frontline Plus

When you have a pet that goes in and out of the house all summer long you are going to want to get some frontline plus for them. That way the frontline plus is going to help them with the problems of fleas that they may pick up when they are out in the grass relaxing. The frontline plus is just one of the many different products that you are able to get for flees and even tics that will stick to your dog with out any coverage. There are many people that will recommend the frontline plus because of how well it works on their dog or cat.

If you are looking for a way to help your pet not get any kind of flees for tics for a while you are going to want to check into the frontline plus to put on them. That way you are going to be able to relax for a while when it comes to flee biting them and you as well. The frontline plus will be able to help you get rid of all flees on your pet but you will need to get something else that will help out with flees that are in your carpet and in their bedding area. When you put the frontline plus on your pet you will want to make sure that you are following the direction so that you are placing it in the right places and even the right doses that is needed for your pets size.

Then you are going to feel a little better about letting your pet outside for a while each day. Then you will have the confidence that the frontline plus is going to help keep out flees from your home. When you are placing the frontline plus on them when you need to then you are not going to need to worry about dealing with flees in your home. That is because you will not get any flees in your home because you made sure that your pet was protected with the use of frontline plus to repel flees form them.

If you are worried about dealing with the flees and tics this summer you are going to want to check out what the frontline plus is going to be able to do for your pet so that they are not going to end up caring in the flees and tics that are out there just waiting for your pet to come out and play with them. You can even ask your vet about the frontline plus because they will let you know that it is a good flee and tic treatment because if used right you will not have any problems this summer.

Agust Hauksson is a regular contributor of articles to many online publications. Find more great information at: http://www.frontlineplus.org/

Tired of Vet Bills?

Do you make a lot of trips to the vet's office? Do you spend your hard-earned money on vet bills because your dog suffers from chronic ailments? Give your dog or cat the nutrition he needs, and chances are you can spend your money on other things rather than giving it to your veterinarian.

Nutritional deficiencies are often the cause of chronic ailments in pets. Most holistic vets believe that improving a pet's diet will boost health and vitality and often restore chronically ill dogs to health.

Pets need to eat a variety of fresh, whole foods. A balanced, raw, home-made diet provides the nutrients pets need to heal from the inside out.

If you don't have time to feed a home-made diet, buy the best commercial pet food you can find, one made with human-grade ingredients and without chemical preservatives, byproducts, and fillers. (These foods may be difficult to find in grocery stores and pet stores, but are easy to find and purchase on web sites.) Then improve on it. Fresh juice and raw liver are two of the healthiest foods you can add to your pet's diet:

**Fresh Juice (for dogs only):

Use a juicer if you have one. Most dogs love carrot juice, and it contains zinc, vitamin E, beta carotene, copper, and other ingredients that strengthen the immune system. It's best to use organic carrots, and you can add celery, parsley, or apple. Feed directly or mix with your dog's food. Try to feed 1/2 cup juice per 25-30 pounds of weight each day.

**Raw Liver (for both dogs and cats):

Some vets consider liver a miracle food because of its ability to save lives and improve health. Raw beef and chicken liver are rich in amino acids, protein, phosphorous, potassium, copper, and Vitamin A & B-complex.

Feed liver only from organically raised cattle and poultry because the liver stores toxins. You can add raw liver to the fresh juice you make or add it to your dog's food. To help sick pets, feed small amounts of organic calf or chicken liver once or twice per day (one teaspoon per 10 to 20 pounds of body weight).

If your dog has multiple health problems, supplements can also help:

**Digestive Enzymes such as pancreatin and bromelain help to replace enzymes destroyed by heat. Give enzyme supplements between meals.

**Probiotics and Prebiotics contain bacteria that help with digestion and fight infection. They replace bacteria destroyed by an inadequate diet or antibiotics.

**Colostrum and Lactoferrin enhance immune function.

**Vitamins and Minerals are especially helpful when pets have multiple infections. Choose a vitamin/mineral supplement made from whole-food sources. Pets can easily assimilate these.

**Amino Acids are the building blocks of proteins, and proteins are needed to construct every cell in the body.

**Garlic fights infection, helps prevent cancer, expels tapeworms, prevents blood clotting, and makes pets less attractive to parasites such as fleas.

If you provide your pet with the nutrients he needs, you should see a much healthier and happier pet. And maybe that money that used to be spent on vet bills can now go towards a new car, home improvements, a vacation, or even a savings account!

Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets. To receive FREE "Pet Pointers" Newsletter, go to: http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com deecaruso@cox.net Ph: 760/758-7963, 877/877-0665

Dog Training – House Training Your Dog

One of the most confusing and anxiety-ridden areas of dog training is house training. Yet, it is one of the most important, especially for the humans involved.

The best way to understand and find success with house training is to use the dogÂ’s own nature to help you.

Dogs are, by instinct, very clean animals. They would rather not soil any areas where they normally sleep or eat. Dogs are also creatures of habit --- they like to know where theyÂ’re supposed to go urinate and defecate. If the dog is taught to eliminate on gravel or concrete, they will tend to look for either of those surfaces to do so. If theyÂ’re taught to eliminate on grass or dirt, thatÂ’s where they will choose. Use these habits to your advantage.

Setting up the training area

This is the first step. Make sure the area you choose is small and confined. A bathroom works for this, or a place in a kitchen or garage also work well. Remember that crate training works well for puppies or small dogs, but for the larger animals, the crate is too confining.

You need to spend some time with this aspect of the training. You need to play with your dog in this area, and this is also where the dog will be taught to sleep and eat. Put together a special bed. This can be something you make up with items around the house, or you can go to the store and purchase a bed. DonÂ’t worry of your dog eliminates in this area at first. Once they figure out that this is where the sleep and eat, theyÂ’ll stop eliminating there.

Once your dog realizes that the bed is for sleeping, you can begin to move it around the house. But, only when youÂ’re there. When youÂ’re not, put the bed back in the training area.

Setting up the toilet area

Now you need to determine where the toilet area is going to be located. Presumably, this will be outside the house. Wherever it is, it has to a place that the dog can go to whenever it needs to go. You need to go there with your dog so you can give the appropriate rewards for good behavior.

Establish a set feeding schedule for your dog. If the dog is in the habit of being fed at certain times, the natural process of elimination will also begin to occur at certain times. Once you learn when those times relate to the eating times, it will become much easier for you to guide the dog to the established toilet area.

DonÂ’t forget to make sure your dog has ready access to the toilet area. That way mistakes arenÂ’t as likely to occur.

Continuing the house training process

Once your dog is in the habit of eliminating in the toilet area and not in the sleeping/eating area, you can begin to extend the training area to the rest of the house. Do this slowly. Start by expanding to one additional room, and then gradually expand into other areas. DonÂ’t expand into new areas until youÂ’re sure your dog has control of its bladder and bowels. At first, do this only when youÂ’re around. If youÂ’re away, then put your dog back in the original training area.

Speeding up the process

If you have to move this process along more quickly, you can do so. Remember to proceed with caution, though. ItÂ’s better to go slowly than to have to try to retrain a dog later. If youÂ’re going to try to speed things up, you will have to be there in order to reward your dog for successful eliminations. It is also important not to punish for mistakes. That will only confuse the dog and slow the process even further.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Mark Bensen shares more of his dog knowledge at his informative site, www.wecould2.com/doggonit/

Coprophagia (Stool-Eating) in Dogs

Why do dogs eat stools? While most cases of coprophagia appear to be purely behavioral, there indeed numerous medical problems that can cause or contribute to coprophagia. These problems must first be ruled out before a purely behavioral diagnosis is made. What are some of the medical causes? Any medical problem that leads to a decrease in absorption of nutrients, causes gastrointestinal upset or causes an increase in the appeal of the dog's stool, could lead to coprophagia. In addition to a complete physical examination, the puppy's diet and its stool frequency and consistency should be evaluated. Stool testing for parasites would be the minimum level of testing. If the stool is unusually soft or appears to be poorly digested, additional stool or blood tests may be warranted. Feeding a poorly digestible diet, underfeeding, and medical conditions that decrease absorption such as digestive enzyme deficiencies or parasites, could lead to malnutrition, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, and therefore an increased appetite and possibly stool eating. In addition, if the stools contain large amounts of undigested food material, there is an increased likelihood that the puppy would eat the stools. When adult dogs begin to eat stools, it may also be due to mal-absorption of nutrients or nutritional deficiencies. In addition, any condition that may cause an increase in appetite, such as diabetes, Cushing's or thyroid disease, or treatment with certain drugs such as steroids, may lead to an increase in stool eating. Some dogs that have been placed on a highly restrictive or poorly balanced diet may also begin to eat their stools. It should also be noted that if a dog develops a taste for a particular dog's stool, that dog should be tested for any type of condition that might lead to poor digestion of the food (and therefore excessive food elements remaining in the stool). What are some the behavioral reasons that a dog or cat might eat its own stools? Coprophagia is a common problem of some puppies, which usually clears up by adulthood. There have been many explanations suggested for this behavior. When left unsupervised, puppies may simply begin to investigate, play with, and even eat stools as a playful or investigative activity. Since coprophagia may attract a great deal of owner attention, the behavior may be further reinforced. There may also be an observational component (copy behavior) since the bitch cleans and ingests the puppy's excrement in the nest, and puppies may learn to mimic the behavior of their mothers or playmates who perform this behavior. The owner that uses the outmoded, inhumane and useless training technique of "sticking the dog's nose" in its stool when it has soiled the home may be further encouraging coprophagia. In adult dogs the innate behavior of grooming and cleaning newborn puppies and eating their excrement, along with the well documented fact that dogs tend to be attracted to sniff and lick infection or discharge of their pack-mates, may explain some of the motivation for coprophagia. Early intervention can help reduce the possibility that the behavior will become a long-term habit. Why do dogs eat the stools of other animals? This behavior is akin to scavenging. It is not unusual for dogs to steal food items, raid garbage cans, and chew on or eat non-food items that most humans would consider unusual or even disgusting. Cat feces and those of some other animals often have enough appealing attributes (odor, texture, taste) to overcome the fact that they are stools. In fact, stools themselves are seldom unpleasant to dogs. It is one of the odors that they are constantly attracted to when investigating their environment. How can coprophagia be treated? Coprophagia can best be corrected by preventing access to stools, by thorough cleaning of the pet's property, and by constant supervision when the pet is outdoors. At the first indication of stool sniffing or investigation the dog should be interrupted with a firm command, punishment device* or a quick pull on the leash (this is particularly effective for dogs wearing head halters). If the dog is taught to come to the owners and sit for a special food treat immediately following each elimination, the new behavior may become a permanent habit. Dogs with medical problems should be treated to try and correct the underlying cause. A change in diet to one that is more digestible, or one with different protein sources may be useful. Dogs on restricted calorie diets may do better on a high bulk of high fiber formula. Some dogs may be improved by adding supplements to improve nutrient digestion or absorption. Specifically, the digestive enzymes in the form of meat tenderizers or food additives may help increase protein digestion, resulting in a less palatable stool. Other published remedies that have never been proven to be effective are to add papaya, yogurt, cottage cheese or Certs® to the dog's food, which in some way are supposed to impart a less pleasant taste in the stools. When adding some items to dry dog food, it may be necessary to moisten the food first and allow the product to sit on the food for 10 - 15 minutes to increase effectiveness. Unpleasant tastes are unlikely to be successful unless the product is suitably noxious as well as odorless (so that the pet cannot detect its presence in the stool). While the dog is out of sight, the stool should opened with a plastic utensil, the taste deterrent inserted into the center and the stool closed and replaced for the dog to find. Most dogs, however, either develop a tolerance for the taste, or learn to avoid those stools that are pretreated. Experimentally, the only form of taste aversion that is consistently effective is when a food type is associated with nauseousness. Since most dogs seem to prefer a well-formed stool, adding sufficient quantities of stool softeners or bulk laxatives will usually deter most dogs. * Note from Linda Mar Veterinary Hospital: A squirt bottle may be used as a humane punishment device. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

Dog Health Checkups Are Essential for the Health of Your Pit Bull Terrier

All responsible dog owners know that when your pet shows signs of feeling ill or gets injured that it's time for a visit to the veterinarian.

Naturally, it is important to take your pet to the vet when there is a problem, but many people forget the importance of taking their pets to the doctor when they are healthy! Taking your Pit Bull to the vet for routine well check-ups and vaccinations can prevent many serious medical conditions, and treat others early on before they have a chance to progress and endanger your Pit Bull’s health.

No matter how good the care you provide for your Pit Bull is, you may miss early signs of disease that the vet would be able to spot at a routine visit. Catching many diseases early can help prevent them from becoming major health issues. Animals often try to hide any sign of illness, because it can be a sign of weakness to other animals. Your Pit Bull’s ability to hide symptoms makes them that much harder to catch early on.

Taking your Pit Bull for preventative care can often save you quite a bit of money. Diseases left untreated can be very costly to treat, amassing tremendous bills along the way. By early diagnosis and treatment, you can prevent it from ever getting to that level, therefore saving yourself a lot of money.

By having routine visits with your Pit Bull, your veterinarian will learn what is normal for your dog, as no two animals are quite the same. In learning what is considered normal for your Pit Bull, your vet will be better able to tell when something isn’t quite right, and provide prompt medical treatment. Your vet will keep records of every visit, so that he can refer back to them, which will help in treating old problems, and diagnosing new ones.

At your yearly well checkup, your vet will also check to see if your Pit Bull is getting the right diet he needs. The vet will suggest changes to help if your Pit Bill is overweight, or malnourished. This can be vital to your pet’s health. Obesity is a major problem that can cause your pet to suffer from a variety of medical problems. It is also crucial that he get proper nutrition, and your vet can prescribe supplements as needed.

Providing routine veterinary care is a vital part of taking care of your Pit Bull. You are responsible for his well-being, and your vet can help you make sure everything is as it should be. Please don’t take these yearly preventative check-ups for granted, your Pit Bull’s health depends on them.

To learn all about Pit Bulls and how to train a Pit Bull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

How Can I Stop My Dog From Shedding?

Shedding, unfortunately for pet owners, is a natural cycle in every pet’s life. No wondrous cure exists, contrary to what some product manufacturers would like us to believe. They offer tonics for the pet’s coat, tools that claim to remove all of the loose hair in one simple step, and of course, the cure-all supplement. Don’t waste your money, they will not work.

To help alleviate the shedding dilemma, it is important to examine the facts. It is necessary to determine whether the pet is actually shedding, or if it is experiencing coat loss. While the end result is the same, the causes of these two situations are very different.

Shedding typically occurs every spring and fall season, relating primarily to changes in the intensity and duration of sunlight cycles. Pets that live mostly in an outside environment tend to “blow their coats” twice yearly, according to the natural sunlight schedules they are exposed to. Pets that live most of their lives indoors are exposed to artificial light, which alters this natural shedding cycle, causing the pet to shed excessively.

Most dogs under indoor conditions usually go through at least one major shedding cycle each year, depending upon the breed. Here is the general rule: if the dog requires regular maintenance haircuts, it most likely will not shed excessively. Dogs with shorter hair that require brushing rather than haircuts, usually have double coats and thus tend to shed much more.

Coat loss is much different than shedding as it is not a natural occurrence. The result is the same, but actual coat loss can be caused by many different factors. Older pets generally have poor coat quality as their digestive systems don’t function as well as they once did. The same is true for pets that have been ill for any length of time, or have been exposed to a significantly stressful situation, or change of ownership, etc. As always, an examination by a veterinarian is always a good choice to rule out any obvious health deficiencies.

Studies have also shown that dogs that have been under anesthesia for an extended period of time usually blow their coats within two months. Females that have had puppies tend to lose their coats soon after as well. Most of these situations are repairable, and the coat will return to normal after the pet has returned to good health.

Pet owners seeking a solution to alleviate excessive shedding need to evaluate the brand of dog food they feed. If a dog is being fed poor quality food, the dog’s body will utilize what little nutritional value the food has for energy to maintain bodily functions, and therefore the quality of its coat decreases. In most cases, good quality dog food is usually the cheapest, easiest way to reduce the excessive hair loss. Talk to your veterinarian about choosing a premium dog food that is best for your pet’s individual health and well being.

Finally, in addition to quality food, good brushing habits will indeed reduce the amount of hair you’ll find around your house. Whether you institute the brushing ritual at home, or turn to your favorite dog groomer to do the task, you will be pleased with the results.

Shannon Lynnes Heggem is an international speaker with a strong background in the pet care industry.

In the 1990's, she established an upscale boarding resort and grooming spa in Havre, Montana. She then founded the Fast Track Institute of Pet Careers, a vocational school focused on pet-related careers.

Shannon quickly became one of the top experts in the pet care industry, as an educator, business consultant, speaker, and contest judge. She was the first Certified Master Groomer in Montana, and went on to become a Certified Kennel Operator. Only four people in the world actually hold both of these certification titles!

In 1998, Shannon’s life was forever changed when she narrowly escaped death. She was viciously attacked in her kennel by a Rottweiler, and amazingly, survived.

Since then, Shannon has overcome incredible obstacles to continue her life’s journey. The trauma was a turning point for her; she has now dedicated her life to writing and speaking, to help motivate others to succeed beyond their own experiences.

Do You Make These Horse Training Mistakes Loading Your Horse Into A Trailer?

Mistake #1: "Here, Kitty Kitty..." Unless they have been educated, new horse owners often think a horse is like a cat or dog. They figure if they tap their thighs and say, "C'mon,...C'mon,...C'mon..." the horse'll will simply jump right in the trailer like a happy dog or cat. Mistake #2: "Using Food As Bait" Putting hay, grain, apples, or whatever at the front of the trailer to tempt a horse to step in and eat almost never works. If it did, it would be a fluke. I've seen horses lean forward to try and eat the food but wouldn't step into the trailer if their life depended on it. Mistake #3: "Forgetting To Hook The Trailer To The Truck" Don't forget to hitch the trailer to the truck before getting a horse to go in the trailer. If a horse steps into a trailer that moves around unforgivably, you will have a harder time getting that horse in later. He'll remember it - especially if this is the horse's first time. Mistake #4: "The Classic Tug Of War" Here's the scene. Man (or woman) pulls lead rope to desperately drag their horse into the trailer. Horse weighs 10 times more than man or woman and has far more strength than the man or woman. Final score of this battle is: Human - Zero...Horse - Won Mistake #5: "Going Trail Riding Before Horse Is Good At Loading In A Trailer" I've seen it time and time again. People go trail riding and when the ride is over the horse won't get back in the trailer. Amusingly, the horse owner comments, "Dang horse, he got in their last month". Remember to get your horse to practice this so it gets fixed on his brain. It seems there will always be at least once a horse owner cannot load his horse into a trailer. But the secret is to teach a horse sending signals so he knows what you want him to do. It's partly how man and horse communicate. If you ever find yourself frustrated with your horse because he won't get in, here's a quick solution. Get a long rope and loop it over his rear and let it slide down to about the top of his back legs. Let the rope hit around his back legs and note his reaction. (Be holding this rope in your right hand and hold his halter with your left hand) He may kick at the rope on his back legs or he may not. If he doesn't, it means he's likely okay with the rope being back there. If he kicks at the rope then he needs to get used to it. Just let the rope kind of hang there and touch his back legs. The horse may get jumpy and try to move from it. He may move forward or in a circle. While holding his halter stiffen your left arm a bit and make him go around you while holding the rope and halter. You, the handler, are acting as an axis. Fairly quickly the horse will realize the rope isn't hurting him and you can move to the next step. Pull on the rope to get the horse to move with you. When he moves forward from your pull, release the pressure. The idea is for him to move when you exert the pressure. He should catch on pretty quickly to what you want. Now lead him to the trailer and guide his head into the trailer if necessary. With the lead rope attached to his halter, pull on the lead rope while pulling harder on the "butt rope". Your horse may or may not jump in the trailer but chances are he will. Also, be careful doing this because he may pop in the trailer very quickly and you could get hurt. Basically, that's all there is to it.

The Gentle Giant Great Dane

The Great Dane or German Mastiff is the gentle giant of dog breeds. This giant dog needs an experienced owner who can cope with a large dog and large demands on the family budget. The Dane is gentle, quiet, dignified, well-mannered, loyal and affectionate. The breed is wonderfully devoted to its family and it would rather lean against you for a pat, than behave aggressively towards anyone. The Great Dane is very good with family children, but toddlers and small children are subject to accidental knock down or being whacked with a wagging tail and must be supervised very carefully. Because the Dane is so large, it requires extensive socialization to learn how to behave cautiously around children and pets. Some male Danes can be dominant, so obedience training and socialization must be started with puppy school and continued until at least two years of age. Danes are intelligent and eager to please, so they can be trained for higher levels of activities and competitions. Additional information on obedience competitions and other activities for dogs can be found in my article on Fun Dog Activities. The Great Dane is probably the tallest of all dog breeds. Male Danes stand at least 32 inches and females at least 30 inches tall at shoulder height. Depending on their height male Danes can weigh from 140 to 190 pounds with females weighing from 100 to 160 pounds. This tall regal dog has a rectangular head set on an elegant neck and the dog moves with grace and dignity. The Dane's ears can be natural or cropped and the tail is natural. The Dane's coat is short, smooth and glossy and only requires occasional brushing except when shedding. Colors can be: brindle (golden yellow with black striping); fawn (with black mask); black; black mantled (black body with white collar and trim); blue; and harlequin (white with ragged black patches). The early ancestors of the Dane are thought to be the large and courageous war dogs, called Molossians, which were used in ancient Greek and Roman times. When these Molossians spread across Europe, they became the founding stock for many modern dog breeds including the British Mastiff. The Germans saw the need to develop a big and courageous dog to hunt the dangerous European wild boars and wolves. It is thought that the British Mastiff, the Irish Wolfhound and possibly the Greyhound all were involved in developing the German Mastiff. The original German Mastiffs were very aggressive hunting and guard dogs but many subsequent generations of selective breeding has resulted in a gentle and affectionate giant dog breed. This German giant came to America in the late 19th century and became very popular, ranking 27th out of 154 dog breeds in 2004 AKC registrations. Danes are very adaptable and despite their large size, they are nimble footed and can easily navigate around a large apartment. Danes can adapt to apartment living and even being left alone during the day as long as they get regular exercise and lots of companionship in the morning and evening. Despite being very large dogs, they don't need a lot of exercise every day. Two good walks will suffice. Do not over exercise Great Danes when they are young because their fast growth makes them prone to injuries. The Dane loves to be warm and comfortable and this heavy dog needs a very soft bed or you may find him sleeping on yours. Giant breeds, like the Great Dane, have a life expectancy of no longer than 10 years and large male Danes may only live for 7 or 8 years. Danes have many serious inherited health problems including: musculoskeletal disorders such as hip dysplasia, Wobblers syndrome (cervical vertebral instability), and panosteitis; heart diseases such as cardiomyopathy and aortic stenosis; eye disorders such as cataracts, ectropion, entropion, glaucoma and progressive retinal atrophy; hypothyroidism, cancer and bloat. Information on these inherited diseases and ways to help control bloat can be found in my article on Hereditary Diseases in Dogs. Before you buy a Great Dane puppy make sure you ask the breeder for the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) results for hip dysplasia, congenital heart disease and thyroid disease and the Canine Eye Registry (CERF) recent ophthalmologists report for both sire and dam. These results also may be available through the Canine Health Information Center (CHIC) program which stores results from both OFA and CERF for a growing number of breeding Great Danes. If you are seriously interested in acquiring a Great Dane then you should check with your national pure-bred dog organizations such as the American (www.akc.org) or Canadian Kennel (www.ckc.com) Clubs to look for conformation shows in your area. Make sure you talk to owners and breeders at these shows to see if your lifestyle is really suited to this giant breed. Additional information on Danes and on specific shows and competitions in your area can be found by checking with the national Great Dane clubs which are www.gdca.org in the US and www.gdcc.ca in Canada. Both of these umbrella organizations will point you to the local chapter closest to your home that may be able to provide you with information on reputable breeders. They should also provide you with information on Dane rescue organizations in case you wish to obtain an adult dog.

Here is How to Get Perfect Attention From Your Dog

Have you ever seen top obedience competition dogs on television, and wonder how they get such amazing attention from their dogs? Here's how to do it:

First, figure out what motivates your dog. Usually it's either food or a toy.

Next, put your dog in the sit stay position. He should know how to sit and stay until you give him the release command. If your dog doesn't already know how to do this, take a look at my dog training book and videos at http://www.dogproblems.com/newvideos.htm

Use the phrase, "Watch me," and bring the food (or toy) down from your chin area, to the dog's mouth.

Then give your dog the release command and play with him for a bit.

Then repeat.

After seven sessions of repetition, place the reward on a table. Give the, "Watch me," command. If the dog doesn't give you full eye contact, then tap your chest or gently tug on the dog's ear until he looks up at you.

When he does, praise him and give him the release command. THEN let him have his reward. (The ball or the food).

See what we've done? We've gone from using the ball/food as a lure to using it as a reward. In other words, we're not bribing the dog to do the exercise at this point, but we're making him do it, and then using the ball or food as a reward.

After your dog starts to understand the exercise, you can start introducing gentle leash corrections while proofing for distractions. Remember: Only reward the dog when he's giving you full eye contact.

Once your dog fully understands the "Watch me" command, you can start combining it with the "heel" exercise.

Here's the professional dog trainer's tip: Always keep your sessions short and fun. Every professional dog trainer knows that it's more effective to use five short (five minute) training sessions in one day, than to try to use a one hour session.

That's all for now, folks! Adam Dogproblems.com

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Pet Grooming Guide - How to Groom Your Pet

As like humans, pets also want to be clean and well groomed. Pet grooming involves different grooming services that you should perform on your pet. An important pet grooming service is to give bath to your pets regularly. Owners should give a great bathing experience to their lovely pets. They should collect all grooming bath supplies such as dog shampoo, bucket, towel and hair dryer at one place, before bringing pet into bathroom.

Give them comfort and warm temperature to bath. You can give them an easy bath in bathtub or splash water over their body. You can also use a hose with sprayer to wash your pets. Use your hand for a smooth rubbing. Pet grooming gloves are also helpful to scrub your dog. You can offer light-handed massage at the time of bath. Your pet will really enjoy this type of bathing practice.

You can choose the best shampoo for your pet. Several pet shampoos are available in the market like medicated shampoo, and scented shampoos etc. Owners should choose the best shampoo that actually suits their pet. Choice of shampoos mostly depends on the season.

Don’t use your soap or shampoo for your pet because it can cause skin irritation to them. You should ask a trained pet groomer to choose the best shampoo for your pet. Brush their teeth at the time of washing their body. After bath, rinse their ears and paws with a towel to remove extra moisture.

You can also use hair dryer for pet grooming but use medium settings only for your pet. You can use a hairbrush to make a style. Pet grooming is a time consuming process so have patience. It is an easy way to make a close bond with your pet.

About Author:

The author owns the website on Pet Grooming. Website provides useful information about pet grooming, pet grooming products, and pet grooming supplies. You can also visit his site for pet grooming tips

Dog Training - Step 3 to the Canine Good Citizen Title

Step 3 of 10 to earning a Canine Good Citizen title for your dog is the following:

"Appearance and Grooming. Goal: Evaluator inspects dog, combs or brushes lightly, examines ears and each front foot."

Well, guess that means a bath before the test. lol But, it is important for the dog's health that he is groomed regularly. It is also an important way for you to keep track of fleas, ticks, lice, or other vermin or skin problems your dog might develop. You will be expected to bring a comb or brush to the test for the evaluator to use, so as to not pass on any possible infections. So, the next phase of your socialization is to have people run your brush over the dog's back.

Checking the ears is important, too, especially for the dogs with floppy ears. Mites can breed in there and it is easier for these dogs to develop ear infections. By checking them regularly and cleaning them with a cotton ball occasionally, this should be a breeze.

Now, the feet need to be inspected and you'll have to teach the dog first to accept having his feet handled. This really ought to be done from the time he is small, even before his eyes open, if possible. Dogs don't really care for their paws being handled, but since you're going to have to trim his nails, anyway, you might as well teach it early on.

Simply start by grasping the leg at the elbow and run your hand down and off the paw. Your dog will likely pull away, but handle each paw (yes, even the back ones) every day until he gets the idea you don't mean to hurt him. Praise him when he allows you to touch his paws in a variety of ways, including inspecting the nails and the pads. When you start clipping the nails, be positive about it and praise a lot and try not to clip the quick. That way, the dog learns that having his paws handled is not a bad thing.

Eventually, you can have other people randomly pick up the paws once he has accepted their petting.

Another way to teach paw handling is to teach the dog to shake hands or give fives. That's another lesson, though, so I won't go into it here. You're getting there on the Canine Good Cititzen tests.

(The information in quotes at the beginning of this article is involved in the CGC test taken from the AKC test scoresheet.)

C. Rogers Upson has been training dogs and studying them for nearly 40 years. Her website is Dog Potentials and she has two dog-related stores at Keeping to the Borders and Dog Potentials-The Store.

Breed Profile: Australian Terrier

Proudly Australian, this little terrier evolved from a variety of British terriers that had been brought out by settlers. Specifically bred for Australian conditions, this tough little terrier was used for everything from guarding the farms and mines to hunting, and from tending the sheep to killing rats and snakes.

Origin: The origins of the Australian Terrier are not documented but it is thought that its beginnings were in Tasmania. Breeds thought to have played a role in its development are the Dandie Dinmont and Skye Terriers. There is also record of six Cairn Terriers being taken to Tasmania in the 1840's.

Early Australian Terriers were known as rough or broken coated terriers and there was also a dog known as the Tasmanian Rough Coated Terrier. The first record of a rough-coated terrier being shown in Australia is in Melbourne in 1868. These dogs were blackish with tan markings. A standard for the breed was drawn up in 1887. In 1889 the breed became known as the Australian Rough Coated Terrier and for the first time sandy coloured dogs were shown.

Australian Terriers were taken to England early this century but they did not gain public recognition until the Governor of Victoria, the Earl of Stradbroke, returned to England and took his little dogs back with him. By 1933 they had gained English Kennel Club status as a breed. It was recognised by the American Kennel Club in 1960 and became the first Australian breed to be officially recognised as a breed by overseas canine associations.

Personality: Although essentially a working terrier, the 'Aussie' as it is affectionately known, soon endeared itself to all those with whom it came in contact as a very desirable companion dog in its own right. Affectionate and well mannered this spunky little dog tends to develop its own amusing and endearing characteristics to delight the family.

Equally suited to town or country living, the Australian Terrier is noted for its loyalty, intelligence and even disposition. It is neither highly-strung nor a persistent barker, but with its inbuilt spirit, courage and air of self-assurance, happily assumes the role of protector for home and household. Sturdy and with a history of longevity, the Australian Terrier finds much favour as both an indoor and outdoor companion.

Coat: The coat of the 'Aussie' consists of a harsh, straight, dense topcoat approximately six centimetres long with short soft textured undercoat. The muzzle, lower legs and feet are free from long hair. The coat is blue, steel blue or dark grey-blue with rich tan on face, ears, under body, lower legs and feet and around the vent, or clear sandy or red. The 'Aussie' has a topknot of a lighter shade than the head colour.

Colour: Permissible colours are: blue, steel blue or dark grey blue with a rich tan on face, ears, underbody, lower legs and feet and around the vent. The richer the colour and the more clearly defined the better.

Size: A very manageable size for city living or older owners, the Australian Terrier is approximately 25 cms high and weighs 6.5 kg.

For lots of easy to read articles, full of useful information that is sure to help you out with your pet or pets, go to http://www.P-E-T-S.info. While you are there sign up for the PET NEWS email newsletter - it is FREE and packed with handy tips for pet owners.

240 Gallon Aquarium

hen trying to decide what kind of fish tank stand you will buy, don’t forget to check out 240 gallon aquarium stand plans. There is nothing more satisfying than making something for yourself. You get to start from scratch and end up (hopefully!) with a result that you’re proud of. You can even include your son or daughter. It really is fun for the whole family when working from 240 gallon aquarium stand plans.

The first place to start looking for 240 gallon aquarium stand plans is on the internet. The internet has many specific woodworking sites available that offer free plans with step by step instructions on how to see the plans through. They are very easy to follow and will even explain all the tools involved and how to use them properly. These sites will have every project imaginable, ranging from a snazzy woodworking bench to your 240 gallon aquarium stand plans.

Another great place to find 240 gallon aquarium stand plans is on a lifestyle program. These kinds of programs encourage you to “get your hands dirty” they want you to get out there and have a go yourself. They will have a host walk you through all the necessary steps involved in making that particular project. The downside to relying on lifestyle/home improvement shows for 240 gallon aquarium stand plans, is that they might not necessarily be making what you are interested in. The host might assume you have more woodworking knowledge than you do, as well. He may miss out important steps or assume you own all the proper tools.

For more information on aquarium related tips, visit our website.

Involved in article writing on various topics on the Internet.

Dog Grooming

Dog Grooming & Routine Care

All dogs need regular grooming. It improves the appearance of short coated dogs, and is essential for those with long coats. It also does much to stop unwanted hair on the furniture and carpets. Start as soon as you get your dog or puppy. If you get dogs used to grooming from an early age they will accept it as a normal routine and become to enjoy it.

For the shorter haired dogs a fairly firm clothes brush will be sufficient, but if you need one that's a bit stiffer your local pet store should have a wide choice of brushes. Regular brushing will remove the loose hair and give a shine to the dogs coat. For long haired breeds a strong steel comb as well as a brush is essential. So many owners think they are grooming their dogs when they are actually only running a brush over the surface of the tangled coat. A daily grooming should prevent the formation of matts and tangles, even in spaniels and poodles.

Parasites

Remember while grooming your dog to look for parasites such as fleas and lice which may have been picked up by your dog. To see how to deal with these, please visit our pet website which is shown below.

You may also find grass seeds in the coat, and especially between the toes. These, if not removed, may penetrate the skin causing painful abscesses. A daily examination of the coat will also give you the opportunity to check for skin irritations that may need attention.

Foot Care.

The feet should be examined daily, especially the hairy types of dog such as spaniels, for the presence of thorns. It is better to keep the hair between the toes and under the pads trimmed short, and to wash the feet after exercise in muddy weather. The accumulation of grit and hard packed mud under the pads may contribute to the formation of cysts or boils on the feet. Keeping your dogs feet clean is a must.

Author - John Moore - Family man and animal lover. Please use my link http://www.pet-dog-cat.com.

My Father's Daughter

My dad was an avid animal lover. We grew up with all kinds of animals but especially dogs. That is one of the main things I got from my dad. He taught me a lot about the care and consideration it takes in owning an animal and the responsibility involved in doing it right. He never looked at them as simply pets but an extension of family that needed to be treated as such. So needless to say I had tons of animals.

I always felt this remarkable bond with them and see my own son following the steps that his mom and his grandpa took in regards to that. I could see my son being a Veterinarian which is what I wanted to be at his age, maybe a K9 handler which we have discussed. He seems to follow what road I take and is so much like me it is scary. He could and would be a great defender of animal rights simply because he chooses to be that now. He will stand up to a grown man and stand his ground if he thinks that person is abusing an animal. He is, to a point, fanatical about it and he is only 7 yrs old.

I think back to my own childhood and how I reacted to such things in my day, and I was exactly the same, and I came from a long line of relatives who believed that an animal had its place and it wasn’t a family member in the least and I could go on about the abusive situations I have seen in my lifetime. That animals be put in and my reactions and responses to such, but it would take 10 pages or more to do so. When Dakota comes to me and states an act he took as repulsive to animals, he becomes agitated and I allow him to vent. I also allow him to stand his ground and a know most people accept what he says with shame in their eyes and carry on. He has the tenacity of a pitbull when it comer to the animal rights issues and I will never deter him in any way.

It has been awhile since I have personally allowed myself to become close to anyone, individual, animal since the loss of Natasha my Mini Schnauzer, See, ‘Man’s Best Friend’, good article. Anyways making the decision to have her put to sleep was terribly troubling to my soul and to this day I still struggle with that decision, it also takes me back to years ago as a child and having to decide, by the hands of an abusive uncle, which out of a litter of puppies and kittens should live and die, the agony of having to do this as an adult brought back to many terrifying and hurtful memories that it has caused me to become somewhat numb in regards to having something depend on and trust me totally for their lives, comfort, and health. I am just not up to that responsibility as of yet, and I am smart enough to realize that in me. I have tried but when I become to attached I send the adopted animal to a friend’s and I have done that at least twice now, and feel the need to heal before I do it again.

My son still has his animals and I am so thankful for that. Yes, I do have a cat which seems to have permanently established a role in this family, why and how I am not 100 % sure on that, but I do know I don’t see me without her and I guess maybe that is a start. I was always very close in heart to dogs though. I preferred them and always saw myself with one, but not at this time. I love horses too and nothing seems to free me more than riding atop a horse with no control over where it goes. I love that feeling, there is nothing like it and it sets me free. My dad always brought us home different pets, rabbits, chicks, we even had two horses and he loved them dearly, and he taught me so much about their care and what they give you in return. I can look into the eyes of animals and tell you almost what it is they are thinking and feeling and I know Dakota does the same. My little Kokopelli.

It is remarkable to see the light in the eyes, if different, animals both tame and wild and it teaches you to know the trust that they can give. Do animals have souls, I believe so. I do believe that. I think to kill an animal for food may be a necessity for some, but I could never, ever do it but I grew up around it, people that torture and kill animals for pleasure are sick and sadistic and as close to evil as you can get without hurting a human and that is where I stand on that.

Just ask people who have nothing but animals as friends, a teenager who feels so isolated and alone that the only one thing that knows their secrets and hurts is that of their dog or cat, maybe even a horse or bird. Or an elderly person whom has lost a spouse and has only the affections of a pet to keep them company. Or a couple whom has lost a baby and has that new puppy to kind of take away a moment of emptiness. They give so much unselfishly and with nothing in return.

It amazes me the loyalty and devotion so many animals give to those that love them and even those who don’t. If I were an animal I would be a wolf. I would be a wolf because of the family life it leads with friends and family surrounding it daily, hunting for food together, to live a long life with one single mate. To have that social network and that support.

I will have to ask Dakota what he would be. I am almost positive he would say a bear, but I really am not sure as to the reasons , it may have some thing to do with strength and honor. Yes, he knows those words. Being a tough guy is his thing! Having honor in what you do, is his thing. He knows those words and he uses them. He also knows what responsibility means and how to have compassion for all things of this world.

We live in a close community with all types of animals, the earth sustains us all, and we were meant to live freely amongst each other and we need to care for all things on the earth as we were meant to be guardians over all. Just remember that, and take care of nature and all that inhabits the world, how lonely we would be without it, thanks!

Vaughn Pascal

To Dakota: I love you! To God and Jesus: Thank you for everything we have..

It's a Dogs Life!

All dogs are descended from the gray wolf over 12,000 years ago. Yes, whichever breed you own, Poodle, Labrador or Great Dane, they all have the same origin.

Man used to hunt in packs, just like the wolf and obviously at some point saw a use for using the wolf to help hunt for food. Thus started man’s association with today's modern canine. Today, your dog now recognizes you as its dominant member and is happy when it pleases you, its master!

On average, life expectancy for today's modern canine is around 12.8 years. Though this will vary somewhat according to the dog breed you have and also how you look after your dog’s health. Obviously if you take care of your dog and he gets regular check ups and vaccinations with a vet, his chances of a longer and healthier life are vastly improved.

When looking for a Veterinarian, most people will just pick up their phone book. However, try asking other pet owners you know and get their recommendation. You can also try contacting the veterinary medical board and see if there as ever been any complaints listed against the vet your thinking of seeing.

Some tips on keeping your dog happy.

There’s nothing better than seeing your hound happy and healthy and wagging his tail! How we look after our pet pooch will determine his quality of life.

Besides his regular health checkups and vaccinations. Of course he’ll need regular daily feeding and constant access to fresh water.

Daily exercise and grooming will also contribute to fido’s well being. It well help keep him healthy and happy. There’s nothing to excite your hound more than knowing he’s going for a walk. Pick up that leash and see him wag that tail!

Your canine friend also needs your love and attention. He’s like a child and needs to be held and loved. So hold and cuddle him, stroke him, let him know he’s loved. Play with him, talk to him and give him treats.

Mark Gardner is a known authority on dogs. For more information and resources on the subject, please visit http://www.at-dogs.com/

How Important Is The Hen In Your Breeding Program?

Throughout the history of game fowl breeding, the importance of the hen has, in the majority of cases, been overlooked, and in isolated instances, even ignored. It is my own belief (you may disagree) that any present-day breeder competing in the fierce competition that exists today ignores the importance of the hen not only at his own peril, but also at the peril of his fowl's competitive success and the successful continuity of his strain of fowl. How many men throughout the ages, have clamored for a cock at the pit side that has won a spectacular fight, to take home for use as their prized brood cock? The pit cock they desire so highly is "the product" and will not necessarily be "the producer" in their own brood yards, thus dashing their high hopes for the future. A sensational pit cock quite naturally creates admiration, excitement and a desire to possess such a bird, to the extent that the would-be possessor of such a cock loses sight of the fact that it took two parent birds to "produce" this ace cock. He would be wiser to seek securement of the birds that produced the ace, not the ace himself, i.e. the "producers" and not "the product." Now, either parent bird could have been the dominant producer or what we term the proven cock or proven hen, such specimens being highly prized. The ace pit cock, himself, may well become a proven brood cock, too, and let there be no doubt in anyone's mind that this has proved to be true on many occasions. The failure rate is, however, proportionately higher. A proven sire is always popular in any sphere of bird or animal life, but such a view is only one side of the coin. However, the hen carries the bloodlines or pedigree of the strain and it is through her that the offspring's prepotency will spring. As the old saying goes: "It takes two and the greatest producing cock will be nothing without a hen capable of continuing his influence of prepotency. The chips off the old blocks come in the opposite, i.e., the cock influences his daughters and the hen her sons. In other words, the producing cock passes on his qualities to his daughters who in turn pass them back to their sons. Thus the hen carries the sphere of influence of the sire, which is perpetuated through the strain. The responsibility of the balance in the strain always rests with the hen. In a breeding program, be it in-breeding, line breeding, or cross breeding, with a preference being shown to the male line, it is the hen's influence which keeps the male influence in proportion. Many of the first class breeders will find it a devil's own job to induce such a breeder to sell a hen of the same caliber. There is no doubt whatsoever that some of the breeders of game fowl taking part in major competition in America today are not only some of America's finest, but also rank among the best in the world. Without exception, the gentlemen not only recognize the values of the hen, they never lose sight of that fact. When they have a proven hen they regard it highly and never part with it. For a beginner to become a force to be reckoned with, he, too, must never lose sight of this all-important principle. Excerpt: C.I. Bilbie GamefowlWorl d.com PoultryWorld.net

Overview Of Different Breeds Of Dogs

There are over a hundred registered breed of dogs. Recognizing the type of the dog is basically associated with its breed. A purebred animal belongs to a documented and acknowledged group of unmixed lineage. Before a breed of dog is recognized, it must be proved that mating two adult dogs of the same type would have passed on their exact characteristics, both appearance and behavior, to their offspring.

If thinking of adopting or buying a pet dog for yourself, it is important to know which type of dog you want. Here are a few popular dog breeds for your easy reference:

Labrador
Labradors are very outgoing dogs that have yellow, black or brown furs. Labrador are versatile dogs that has a wide rang of functions. Most of them are known to retrievers and are utilized as guide dogs for the blind. They enjoy holding different objects in their mouth and are prone to chewing things. Labradors are observed to be hypersensitive and have a high regard for their territory. Their furs are observed to water repellant thus making them perfect for waterfowl hunting. They are excellent as family dog.

German Shepherds
Germans shepherds are also known as Alsatian. Originally, they are intended to be aide for a farmer in herding their sheep or cattle. They are incredibly intelligent and very trainable. Because of their built they are often used as working dogs in the military or police community. Most of them are also guide dogs. German shepherds are large and strong dogs with varied fur colors. Most comes in cream, tank, white or black.

Boxer
Boxers have pointed ears that are tilted forward. They have a distinguishable white underbelly and white parts at the tip of each foot. These white regions are often called as ‘flashiness’ which sometimes extend to other parts of the body. These usually appear on the shoulders and face. Boxers are playful and energetic breed. They are perfect as a pet for children because they have an extended puppy hood, meaning they are not considered as an adult dog until they reach the age of three. Training would not be a problem. Boxers are known to be obedient and possess a strong personality. It is advisable to train a boxer at an early age. They can sometimes be a substitute as guide dogs or police dogs.

Rotweiller
RotweillersÂ’ origin traced back on ancient times. Their existence has been associated with the Roman Empire as watchers for groups of cattle. Since then, their incredible strength and intelligence has been recognized. They are utilized as police dogs and military aides during wars. Rotweillers are black tan spots on its cheeks, legs, chest and face. You should definitely find one too underneath their tails. They are marked with upside down triangles can be found on the chest area. Their eyebrows have a unique spot on each one. Rotweillers are intelligent and fearless dogs. You can notice their foreheads getting a little wrinkly when they are alert. Rotties are very active and playful and are fast on learning tricks.

Poodle
Poodles can be a very good companion and are very loyal to their owners. They belong to a quiet breed of dogs that has a naturally curly fur. Their color ranges from black, grey, white, blue, apricot or brown. Training a poodle trend to require more effort compared to other breed. They are considered as a hypoallergenic breed. They are very famous for their very nice coats. Maintenance proved to be a tedious job. Owners have to keep their hair in a manageable length so that matting and tangling would be prevented.

Labrador
Labradors are very outgoing dogs that are yellow, black or brown in colors. Labrador are versatile dogs that has a wide rang of functions. Most of them are known to retrievers and are utilized as guide dogs for the blind. They enjoy holding different objects in their mouth and are prone to chewing things. Labradors are observed to be hypersensitive and have a high regard for their territory. Their furs are proved to be water repellant thus making them perfect for waterfowl hunting. They tend to be mellow and are excellent as a family dog.

German Shepherds
Germans shepherds are also known as Alsatian. Originally, they are intended to be aide for a farmer in herding their sheep or cattle. They are incredibly intelligent and very trainable. Because of their built they are often used as working dogs in the military or police community. Most of them are also guide dogs. German shepherds are large and strong dogs with varied fur colors. Most comes in cream, tank, white or black.

Dachshund
Dachshunds are also referred to as sausage dogs because of their elongated built. They have short legs and pointed facial framework. Chasing and hunting are their favorite past times. Most dachshunds have crooked legs and chest compared to a barrel. Dachshunds are playful and loyal dogs that loves to chase small animals like birds. Their senses are very keen and well-developed though they often exhibit shyness.

Beagle
Beagles have acquired a strong sense of smell. Because of such quality they are used for hunting animals like rabbits. They have big ears that are low- set giving them that gentle look. Their furs are commonly white, black, brown or a combination of both. Beagles are known to be very good tempered. Training might prove to be a trick task because these dogs are strong willed that made them quite stubborn. Beagles travel in pack, being a pet dog might cause them to have anxiety.

Above is a simple overview of popular breed of dogs. In choosing a dog for you better consider each breedsÂ’ physical appearance, temperament and health issues. Of course, each dog should fit your lifestyle. Remember dogs should be given proper attention and care but in exchange you can have the best companion ever.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Jack Russell is a a long time dog fancier, visit his Dog Resources Blog and download his Free Dog Owners Handbook - it's Dog Gone Good! www.daveshealthbuzz.com/dogcare/

Socializing Your Puppy For Protection Part 2

Now that we have talked about socializing your puppy to people and vehicles, it is time to discuss some lesser thought of environmental factors that can contribute a great deal to the ability of your protection dog. Far too often I have seen even trained police dogs fail simple tasks because of a lack of exposure to certain environments that we encounter everyday. In order to have complete confidence in your dog's protection ability, the dog must have complete confidence in every environment. In addition, certain environmental stimuli can have a drastic effect upon your dog. To overcome any apprehensiveness your dog may have to some of the more common environmental conditions, you must work your dog in these environments, paying special attention to your dog's confidence and stress level. One of the most common situations we encounter almost everyday but can be very stressful to a dog are stairs. I have seen time and again very strong dogs cower at the sight of stairs. This is understandable, I don't like to walk up them either. But, for the future protection dog, this is unacceptable. Start by walking your dog up and down a few steps, and gradually work him/her up to larger flights such as in a high rise building or parking garage. It is important that your dog is exposed to large flights, maybe 30-40 steps, with a platform and another flight. I can think of 100 situations this might be important, but it is mainly for the reasons I can't think of. Your dog may be called upon to search for an intruder, or give defense in a stairwell. In addition, this part of the socialization process is important to allow you to take your dog wherever you may want to go. Loud noises are another aspect of socialization the dog must go through. Your dog should encounter this as part of his/her regular protection training, however; it is important not to anchor your dog to the point where loud noises are always heard in conjunction with bite training. Some dogs will be able to cope with gunshots and other loud noises while in drive, but in their everyday life may run away from the source. It is important then to teach the dog to ignore gunshots, cars backfiring, firecrackers,etc. rather then to agress on them as in training. This way you have a well disciplined protection dog, who does not agress instantly at loud noises. In the next installment we will discuss more environmental stimuli that your dog should be exposed to, darkness and tight spaces. Keep up the good work!

Choosing A Suitable Collar For Your Dog

Dog collars are an important accessory of man’s best friend â€" they include your dog’s registration tags, ID, and even leads (for leashes). When looking for the right collar for your pet dog, it’s nice to know you have lots of options. Here are some tips to guide your shopping.

You need to find a collar that will fit around your dog’s neck exactly. And as long as this is the case, you can basically choose whatever color, pattern, or style you like.

For small dogs, pick out a collar that is neither too heavy nor too light. For puppies, a thin, leather collar or a soft, nylon collar is ideal. As for bigger, stronger dogs, wider and heavier collars are best. To make sure that a collar is the right fit on your dog, make sure you can squeeze at least two fingers in between the dog’s neck and the collar. It should be a tight squeeze though, as you don’t want to the collar to be too loose. Finally, you will want to cut off the excess length of strap because otherwise, the dog might chew it.

A snap-on type fastener is the most common replacement for buckle collars, because it makes for easy adjustment of a collar’s length. As for choke collars, they are cool looking but shouldn’t be used on younger puppies â€" gentler, training collars are better.

Moreover, leather collars are long-lasting and are naturally softened by the oils of a dog’s skin and they come in a variety of styles, widths, and colors. Nylon collars are washable and durable and are perfect for dogs that like to swim and for smaller dogs and puppies that need a softer touch. For bigger dogs, a nylon collar is okay, but it will need to be one with heavy webbing.

There are other collars that suit very specific kinds of dogs. For surfers, there are collars that are made out of the same material as wetsuits! And for those impatient dogs that pull on your leash during walks, head collars are the best option and are often used in training. A harness can come in handy with an anxious or hyperactive dog as well, as it is positioned around the dog’s chest and ribcage to prevent choking â€" some harnesses even allow you to buckle your dog into your car!

There are all sorts of colors and patterns to choose from and most collars come with matching leashes. Because it is important for your dog to feel as comfortable as possible, put careful time and consideration into your search for the perfect collar.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Simon Oliver has an interest in Pets and Recreation related topics. To access more information on dog collars or on designer dog collars, please click on the links.

Glow Light Tetra - A Lovely and Peaceful member of your community tank

Words: 361 Glowlight Tetra Brings live to your community tanks Many freshwater fish-keepers have a warm spot in their heart for a little fish with a big name, the 1 ½-inch hemigrammus erythrozonus… or mush easier to say, the glowlight tetra. Like its little cousin, the neon tetra, the glowlight is an easy fish to keep in a community tank. In fact, many neon keepers, tired of battling neon disease, move towards the glowlight tetra. The glowlight tetra is pastel peach in color with a horizontal red-gold stripe that spans the length of its body. Originating in Guyana, South America, the glowlight does well in a fresh water tank of slightly acid but peat-softened water that is kept between 74F and 82F. Glowlight tetras generally occupy the bottom third of the tank, except for feeding time when they will swim to the top. The male glowlight tetra is more slender bodied than his mate, although it may be difficult to tell them apart until the female is full of eggs. Glowlight tetras are easier to breed than many other tetras like the neon and the cardinal tetra. However, providing them with a soft water environment is a critical factor for breeding. In fact, when breeding glowlight tetras, it may help to erect a special breeding tank. After your females have laid their eggs, you will need to remove adult fish from the tank until the fry hatch since glowlights have been known to eat their own eggs. Glowlights scatter their eggs among fine-leaved live plants. Clean, fresh water and live foods can encourage breeding. However, when changing water, be careful that you don’t remove so much that it causes your tank to recycle. Like many tetras, the glowlight tetra is a schooling fish and prefers to swim in the company of at least seven of its peers. Another common characteristic of many tetras is sensitivity to bright light. Lighting in a glowlight tetra aquarium should be filtered. This is easily achieved with aquarium plants. Artificial plants will suffice (unless you intend to breed your fish), but the glowlight tetra finds that real plants are a delicacy along with its usual fare of tropical flake food, tubifex worms, and brine shrimp.

Have An Easier Time Training Your Dog

Raising up is a dog is a hard task. The only consolation that you’ll have when raising up a dog is that it’s not as hard when you raised or will raise up kids.

Dogs may be a little rough around the edges when you start training them. But when they get trained, a small amount of dog burdens will be lifted away from your shoulders. Imagine that you will no longer have to step on dog poop all of a sudden or have your dog occupy your couch.

However to get your dog trained well it will need a little effort form you as well. As the saying goes, “It takes two to tango.” The better you are at training your dog, the better attitude your dog will have. Here are some tips that you can do to make the training effective.

If you live with a family or lots of other people, chances are there will be one person with most of the burden of training the dog. This person might be the one who bought the dog or the person who got forced to train the dog. It is suggestible though to make kids train the dog. This is because kids have a higher pitched voice and are more animated making dogs react more. A child training the dog will also make the dog feel less abused or imposed because of their size.

Having the right attitude when you are training your dog will also be helpful. Don’t think of training the dog as a chore, because if you do you will feel bored. Naturally when you feel bored, you and your dog will not enjoy. Prevent it from happening, because when it does happen you will be spending less time training. Try to enjoy and have fun, that’s what your relationship with the dog should be anyway.

If you are tired or cranky, train at a later time. Relax first, if you train the dog when you are tired, you will only become more irritated when things don’t go right. When the dog is having trouble with something new; try to go back to something the dog has already mastered. This will make the dog feel not so bad.

Don’t give up immediately when things are not going your way. Just think about the dog learning something from a different language. If you are learning how to read a book in Chinese, you’ll also have a hard time right?

If you’re at the point of giving up, just think about the benefits of all things once the dog has been properly trained.

Michael Colucci is a technical writer for Free Dog Training and Dog Care

Feeding Your Pit Bull Terrier Table Scraps: Dog Health Tip

While it is often hard to tell your Pit Bull no when he begs for your food, you should be strong and do so. Feeding your Pit Bull table scraps is a bad idea for several reasons. The obvious reason is that you will be encouraging him to beg at the dinner table, you will be feeding him an unhealthy diet which can lead to health problems, and also teaching him that it is okay to eat whatever he may want. If you give in when your Pit Bull begs for your food, especially if you are at the table, he will think that behavior is okay, and will associate it with getting what he wants, table food. Giving in will help reinforce bad behavior. It may be okay with you that he begs while you eat, but can be very annoying if you ever have dinner guests over. Feeding your Pit Bull table food also can contribute to many serious health problems. The food we eat is often considerably higher in calories than what he needs to meet his nutritional requirements, therefore leading him to be overweight. Studies show that over half of today's pets are considerably obese. Obesity often causes the same health problems in animals as in humans. Table scraps are usually low in vitamins and nutrients, and can overload your Pit Bull's system with fat causing stomach and digestion problems. Many foods that we eat contain toxins that are safe for us, but can be detrimental to your Pit Bull's cardiovascular system. If you still intend to feed your Pit Bull table scraps, consult your veterinarian so he can let you know what foods to stay away from. You will always be safer only feeding him dog food and treats, as these are formulated specifically for him with all of nutritional requirements in mind. By allowing your Pit Bull to eat food other than dog food, you are encouraging him that it is okay to eat whatever he wants. This can be deadly if he were to come into contact with antifreeze, deadly household chemicals and poisons, or many toxic plants. He doesn't know these things are bad for him, just that he wants to eat them. As you let him explore other foods, he will want to taste everything he comes into contact with. To ensure your Pit Bull's health, you should really only feed him food that is intended for dogs. Again, you talk to your veterinarian, but to me, it is too risky. Your Pit Bull's health should be the number one priority, and just like children, he doesn't know what is best for him, you have to make those decisions.

The Australian Shepherd: Not a True Australian

The Australian Shepherd is NOT one of the several breeds developed in Australia, as one would assume from the name. In actuality it was believed to have sprung out of the dogs which were used by the Basque shepherds of southern Spain. In 1875 Basque shepherds migrating to American shores brought specimens of the breed with them. It was at that time that the original strains of the breed came to be known in this country and later evolved into the breed now known and recognized by the American Kennel Club as the Australian Shepherd.

The Australian Shepherd is somewhat blocky in build, quite square looking, with no tail or docked tail. The coat is dense and double coated, stand off hairs are not part of the standard but many of the dog show exhibitors accentuate the coat by blowing it out to make it appear that coat has more "fluff' than it actually has. The bone is moderate, with round feet and straight legs. The colors are very specific for the show ring: blue, blue merle, red merle and all red. White may be found on the front and as a "collar": around the neck but should not be found between the withers and the tail nor on the sides between the elbows and the back of the tail. The head of the Australian Shepherd is usually very pretty, as the fold over ears frame the skull beautifully and there is enough coat around the neck to make a "ruff" similar to that of the collie or the Shetland sheepdog. In appearance this dog can be mistaken for a Shelty except that the observant onlooker will see that the body is blockier and heavier of bone than the Shelty and the head of the Shelty is more refined than that of the Australian Shepherd. Furthermore the "Aussie" has no tail.

The breed quickly became a favorite in the show ring and as a pet. It was not admitted to the American Kennel Club until 1993. Many of the fanciers of the breed have continued to strive to keep this breed true to the purpose for which it was originally bred, that of a sheep herding and guarding dog. The instincts of guarding are part of its nature and it is distrustful of strangers and will bark a warning, but should not attack nor threaten, so he makes a good watchdog. It has made its mark in the field of herding and working as a farm dog, plus agility, obedience, search and rescue and as a therapy dog and assistance dog. It is a dog of high intelligence and great loyalty. This is a dependable dog, devoted to its owner and willing to work tirelessly on anything that is demanded of it. Because his genetic inheritance includes the desire to herd and guard the flock independently, this is a "thinking" dog. The dog should be alert and eager to follow the commands of its master. Anyone who is not able to give this dog a "job" will find that he can become a nuisance quickly, he needs to have a job to do. His herding instinct also includes the desire to give chase and he needs to have a fenced in area and plenty of exercise. He makes a great pet and a good farm worker, being happy in urban or country environments.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Picking the Best Clothes for Your Pet

Picking out your dog’s clothes is a process that requires thought and planning. You must start by asking yourself if your baby needs something fun or functional. It’s also good to decide what style will fit their personality. The answers depend on your dog’s physical stature and the time of year. To pick the best clothes, you must measure and asses your dog and pick appropriate attire for the season.

It’s important to measure and assess your dog’s physical attributes to get the clothes that are best for him. One of the most important things to consider is size. Is your dog big or small? Bigger dogs tend to not get as cold as their smaller counterparts. If it’s really cold outside, they will benefit from some cover, but you don’t want to overdo it and make them overheat. Another important factor is coat thickness. For example, Huskies have a coat of thick fur made especially for cold weather, and they’ll rarely if ever need extra protection. All the breeds have differing levels of coat thickness, so examine your dog and use your best judgment on what he needs. If a jacket is going to be too much, then there are many different kinds of sweaters available. Also, you need to determine what kind of clothes your dog will tolerate. For example, will he like having a pullover sweater or a coat that wraps around his body? The wrap coat is faster and easier to put on but doesn’t cover as much of the body. Once you determine all of these things, it’s easy to shop around and find exactly what your furry baby needs.

Depending on the season and weather, the dog clothes need to be either heavy or light. This is common sense, but it helps to keep it in mind when shopping. Stores often have a sale of off season clothing, and it’s good to stock up, but don’t forget the in season pieces. For example, if it’s a rainy spring season, then you should pick out a quality raincoat. Picking the best clothes for your pet can be fun and easy if you follow these simple guidelines.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

Dog Treat Recipes - Mega Meaties

Meaty Treats Category

Mega Meaties

Category: Meaty Treats
Serves: 30 Treats
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 45 minutes

Healthy Hint:

If your pup is watching his weight, you know, getting a little big on the waist line or just a little heavy to live the best life, then why not use Chicken or Beef broth instead of the stock. Try to find some low-sodium or light dog treat recipes as they contain fewer calories but keep all of the flavour locked in so your dog will love them.

Ingredients:

• 1.3 Ltrs (5 1/2 cups) of whole wheat flour
• 120 ml (1/2 cup) of buck wheat flour
• 360 ml (1 1/2 cups) of cornmeal
• 480 ml (2 cups) wheat germ
• 120 ml (1/2 cup) dry milk
• 1 package of yeast, dissolved
• 250 ml (1 cup) chicken stock or broth
• 250 ml (1 cup) beef stock or broth
• 1 egg

Preparation & Cooking:

• To start with you will need to combine all of the dry ingredients in a large bowl and then mix in the yeast and broths.
• Then knead the mix until you a stiff dough is formed.
• Then grab your rolling pin and roll the mixture out into a 1/4 inch thickness.
• Then, with your cookie cutters, you might want to get some dog themed one's, cut out your cookies.
• Get yourself a baking tray and grease it lightly and then lay out your cookies with about 2 cm's between each one.
• Pop them in the oven and let them bake for about 45 minutes at 180°C (300°F).
• Turn off the heat and allow them to cool overnight in the oven. Don't take them out as the heat will continue to cook them for a while and will add that special something that your dog will love.

Remember to never serve them hot to your dog, you might just burn his tounge and then you will be up for a visit to the Vets.

Justin Bryce is the Proprietor of http://www.dogtreatrecipes.com.au Stop by for over 400 dog treat recipes and fantastic dog health and care tips plus way's to spoil your dog.

Puppy House Training

House training is one of the most important things you can do for both you and your puppy. It is imperative that you begin your puppy's housebreaking as soon as you bring him home. It is natural for a dog to relieve himself where ever it is. You must teach your puppy to relieve himself outdoors. Keep in mind that the younger the puppy is, the less control he will have over his bladder and bowels. A very young puppy can seem like a pee and poop machine! Puppies can also mark and urinate when they are submissive or afraid. Dogs are relatively clean animals and will typically want to eliminate in an area separate from the main living area. Keep an eye on your puppy for signs that he needs to go. You may notice him sniffing the floor, going into a room away from all the activity, or staring at the door. Some puppies will be more obvious, such as running between you and the door, jumping on you, or barking. Designate a place in your yard specifically for your puppy to eliminate. This area should be kept clean of feces. Take extra care to keep the area clean from feces and safe from other dogs until your puppy is fully immunized. Take your puppy outside to the designated area frequently. Develop a routine and take your puppy out on a regular schedule. Do not go more hours than your puppy is months old without taking him out. For example, if your puppy is three months old, do not go more than three waking hours without taking him outside. In addition, you should take your puppy to the designated area approximately twenty minutes after meals or long drinks of water. If you see your puppy eliminating inside, immediately take him outside to the designated area. Don't fall into the temptation of sticking his nose in it and telling him, "no!" This will not help. It will just confuse him as he will not understand why he is being yelled at and it will make him nervous and scared around you. Ignore the unwanted behavior and reward the good behavior. Take your puppy outside on a leash. Give him five minutes to eliminate. If he doesn't go in five minutes, take him back inside and put him in his crate. Ten minutes later, take him back outside again on the leash. Repeat if necessary. When your puppy begins to eliminate, give him a command such as, "Do your business." Say it continuously while he is going. Praise your puppy after he voids in the designated area. Reward him with something he likes. Many puppies are happy to be off the leash and have ten or fifteen minutes of play time outside with you. It will take a few weeks to fully house train your puppy. Consistency is the key to success. When your puppy's training is complete, he will eliminate on command when you tell him, "Do your business."

Dog Fleas

Dog fleas can cause more than itching.They are difficult to control, but, left unchecked, they can cause your dog very serious health problems. Simple facts about dog fleas: Fleas are probably the most successful creatures on the planet in terms of reproduction. There are over 2,400 species and they are difficult to control for a variety of reasons: One female flea will produce 25,000 offspring in one month. An unfed adult can live for several months. The chemicals used to eradicate adult dog fleas have no effect on the eggs. Fleas are very good at mutating to resist new pesticides. Fleas are a menace to dogs! They cause allergic dermatitis, tapeworms, and anemia. Most of the eggs are not laid on the dog but in the dog's bedding, in the rug, and on the furniture. It is extremely difficult to eradicate fleas completely. The most you can hope for is to control them and to keep your dog reasonably comfortable during the warm, moist flea season. The best way to control dog fleas is to remove them from your dog and your house. Take him to a groomer for the day and have him bathed with veterinarian-approved flea shampoo. Spraying or dipping him with a residual pesticide has little or no lasting effect. While he is out of the house, hire a company that uses a non-toxic product to spray the carpets and the furniture. These companies usually guarantee a flea-free home for one year. Some dogs are bothered more by the use of pesticides than they are by fleas. Flea collars, sprays, powders, and shampoos are all loaded with pesticides. Beware! If your dog is into serious scratching, your veterinarian can prescribe medication for the itching. It is also very important that you discus with your veterinarian which products you should use on your pet to rid him (or her) of dog fleas. There are a lot of products on the market that claim to get rid of fleas; not all of them work and some could be harmful to your dog. >From this point on, it is important for you to vacuum the carpets, furniture, and your dog's bedding everyday. Place the cut-off end of a flea collar, or a moth crystal, into your vacuum cleaner bag to kill any vacuumed adult fleas. Vacuum the dog if he will let you! Groom him daily with a flea comb. Do not be surprised if you occasionally find a flea on him. He will bring them in from outside. Remember, you cannot get rid of them, only control them. Effective Treatment of Your Yard: In cases where pets spend most of their time outdoors, it may also be necessary to treat the yard for dog fleas. One way to determine if the yard is infested is to walk around the property wearing white athletic socks, pulled to the knee. If fleas are present, they will be seen against the white background of the socks. Outdoor flea treatment should focus on areas where your pet rests, sleeps, and runs, such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, along fences and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the entire yard or open areas exposed to full sun. However, as long as you are treating the outdoor area, it may be a wise move (particularly the first time) to treat as large an area as possible. Once again, check with your vet to determine which product to control dog fleas will be most effective for out door use and will not be harmful to your pet. Be sure to follow all instructions carefully. Summary of Key Treatment Steps: 1. "De-fleaing" your pet is only one essential step in ridding your home of fleas. 2. It is critical that you treat areas in your home where your pet spends time. 3. It is most effective if you treat your pet and your home on the same day. 4. Treat every week to ten days until the infestation cycle is broken. After that, once a month or as needed. 5. Expect to see newly emerging adult fleas for 2 weeks or longer following If you dust your pet every week to ten days,new generations of fleas will quickly die before they have a chance to lay eggs - breaking the infestation cycle.Flea eggs are completely protected from insecticides so you must break the cycle of re-infestation to clear them from your home. 6. If your pet spend most of their time outdoors, it may also be necessary to treat some areas of your yard. In fact, it is highly recommended when there is evidence of a high infestation of dog fleas.

Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison's)

Disease This condition occurs when the adrenal glands, two small glands that are near the kidneys, don't secrete enough hormones. The most important hormones are mineralocorticoids and glucocorticoids (cortisol). These hormones are responsible for many of the body's functions including the ability to use glucose, dealing with stressful events and the maintenance of normal levels of electrolytes such as sodium and potassium. Addison's occurs when there are insufficient levels of both hormones or of just glucocorticoids. Demographics The condition is most common in young, female dogs but can manifest later in life and in male dogs. Cats are rarely affected. Signs Signs associated with insufficient production of these hormones vary. It can be chronic and vague (known as "waxing and waning" signs- good days and bad days) with recurrent periods of poor appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and weakness or it can present acutely with sudden collapse and shock. Its presentation can mimic many other diseases including kidney, neurological and gastrointestinal disease, and tests are needed to differentiate Addison's from other conditions. Diagnosis Routine blood tests can suggest this disease, especially when there are low blood sugar levels, high calcium levels, low sodium levels, high potassium levels and low red blood cell counts. But patients with Addison's may not have all of these changes. The most definitive test to determine if a pet has Addison's or not is to do an ACTH stimulation test. This test will indicate if the animal has normally functioning adrenal glands or not. Two blood samples are obtained to measure cortisol levels in response to the administration of a hormone (adrenocorticotropic hormone). In normal dogs, there will be an increase in blood cortisol levels between the first and second samples. In dogs with Addison's, the cortisol levels start low and stay low since they can't respond appropriately. Treatment The main goal of therapy is to replace the hormones that pets with Addison's can't make. This can be done with an oral medication called fludrocortisone (Florinef) that must be given daily. It is mostly a mineralocorticoid, but it also has some glucocorticoid activity. There is also an injectable medication called desoxycortisone pivalate (DOCP) that can be given about every 25 days, according to the pet's needs. Since this is only a mineralocorticoid, a small amount of an oral supplementation of glucocorticoids in the form of prednisone or prednisolone must be given daily or every other day. Every dog varies in its response to medication and thus must be closely monitored, especially in the initial phases until it can be determined how that individual is responding. It is important that the pet owner of a dog with Addison's is aware that stress of travel, grooming, boarding, surgery or other activities may necessitate a temporary increase in the amount of glucocorticoids that help the body cope with stress. Monitoring It is important to evaluate the pet clinically (i.e. energy levels, resolution of signs of vomiting, etc) as well as with laboratory tests such as electrolyte levels and kidney function. At first, after the initiation of treatment, it may be necessary to frequently check these levels. Once the pet is stabilized and its needs for the medications are determined, checking the pet every 4-6 months is usually sufficient. Prognosis At all times, the owner must stay vigilant for a decline in the pet's condition and recurrence of the previously noted signs. With the appropriate medication and close monitoring from the owner and veterinarian, pets with Addison's can live a normal, good quality of life. However, the pet owner must be prepared for expenses associated with the medications (Florinef and DOCP are both expensive) and with rechecking laboratory tests. If there are any problems or questions, please contact your veterinarian. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

Caring for your Dog's Respiratory Tract, Urogenital System & Infections

The symptoms discussed here are only a selection of the more common types of thing that can cause your dog problems. If you notice these symptoms or anything else you are unsure of you should contact your vet immediately, early detection of problems will save your pet more discomfort in the long run and it is often quite astounding how quickly some diseases can take hold and cause other health problems for your dog

The Respiratory Tract: The most common problem that affects the respiratory tract is some kind of obstruction that occurs.

Watch for: Mouth breathing, Persistent sneezing accompanied by nasal discharge, Gagging, Snoring, Hacking cough, Nasal discharge, Retching, Vomiting, and Rapid and Shallow respiration.

The Urogenital System: Watch for the following symptoms and consult your veterinarian if symptoms persist.

Trouble Signs: Depression, Vomiting, Diarrhoea, Rise in temperature, Pain in the kidney region, Scanty Urine Flow, Foul Breath, Weight Loss, Digestive upsets, Nervousness, Lumbar Pain, Straining to urinate, Frequent urination becoming uncontrollable, Blood in the urine, and walking in a crouched position. General Infection: Dogs are susceptible to a wide range of bacterial and viral infection. The best way to prevent these types of infections is to vaccinate your dog. Puppies should be fully vaccinated by 12 weeks of age, and should receive their rabies vaccination at 6 months of age, and every year thereafter. Many infections can be extremely serious and life threatening. If you see any of these warning signs, you should consult your veterinarian immediately!

Trouble Signs: Runny eyes, Runny Nose with white discharge, Coughing, Red Throat, Fever, Loss of appetite, listlessness, Enlarged Tonsils, Intense thirst, Diarrhoea, Blood in the stool, Muscle stiffness, Rigidity of the tail, Stiffness in gaiting, and Vomiting.

Please do not let this list of symptoms and problems put you off owning and loving a dog, they are a great addition to any loving family and the purpose of this article is not to scare you, it is just you are going to be spending a lot of time in close contact with a member of the family who can not tell you if they are feeling unwell. We hope that if you are able to recognise the signs of a problem then you will be able to give the dog the help he needs.

http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com Tall indoor dog gates is a site dedicated to dog training and healthcare â€" give us a visit.

Find a Best Dog Friend Online

Every year, tens of thousands of healthy dogs are uselessly euthanized because they don't have homes. They may have been neglected, gotten lost, or run away. Hopefully they are picked up by the local shelter, but unless they are adopted, they are sadly put to sleep. Many people think these animals are mangy mixed breeds that aren't that highly desirable, but that isn't the truth. Any dog can be a great dog, but even quality pure-bred animals aren't immune to reality. Many pure-bred, highly-desirable breeds are lost or neglected every year. These dogs are intelligent animals that, like any domestic animal, deserve loving homes. Finding these dogs table, loving homes can help alleviate the problems of vercrowded shelters and euthanasia. Anyone who takes in a dog--even from a breeder--may be saving the animal's life. Dog lovers looking for a new best friend are finding a new partner in their mission...the Internet. Every day, millions of people search online classifieds or dedicated pet-finding sites to find great dogs that all need homes. People looking for a dog can quickly match, screen, and select dog breeders in their area. Breeders of dogs can even find good homes for their puppy litters or adult dogs. Those who would like a certain breed or pure-bred dog would be wise to check out sites on the Net that specialize in connecting owners and sellers with the animals of their choice. Dog lovers can search for certain breeds in any geographical area, and can screen breeders so they know they're dealing with reputable people and quality animals. At the same time, breeders looking to place animals--puppy or adult--can list their services, experience, etc. on the website. This gives breeders a wide audience of potential clients, and they can also carefully screen those wanting to buy the dogs they have. It's a good way for dog lovers and breeders to get what they want, and it's a great way for great dogs to find great owners who really want them. Copyright © 2005, Ian White

Five Powerful Reasons Why Owning A Pet Could Make You Live Longer

You may have heard that pets have been scientifically proven to increase your chances of living to a ripe old age. Well the rumour is true, but how exactly is it possible you may be wondering.

Well, it is said that pets are able to penetrate our outer exterior and really connect with us on a deep level where humans are unable. When you look at the facts closely it is hard to argue with.

The first reason why owning a pet could make you live longer, is that they offer you unconditional love without you ever having to ask for it. In fact, this unconditional love is available to you at any given moment, twenty-four hours a day. Next time you are with your pet, take notice of its expressions and you will see that it is full of nothing but love for you.

The second reason is that you can be yourself around your pets. You do not need to put up facades or pretend to be someone that you are not. No matter what you do, you will always have the approval of your pets. Having the freedom to be yourself eliminates the stress that you may be subjecting yourself on a daily basis while out in the real world.

The third reason is that pets offer companionship. You can come home from work to an empty house and that is exactly how it will feel â€" empty. But with a pet there to greet you, you have a friend by your side as you kick off your shoes and settle in for a quiet night together.

The fourth reason is that they stimulate you physically, especially dogs. You know that if you don’t take them for a walk, then chances are they go without. So you get out in the fresh air, breath deeply and move those joints and muscles as you enjoy the scenery together. There is nothing like a brisk thirty minute walk to wake up your body.

And lastly they also give you the opportunity to share your love and affection. A pet demands this kind of attention and this helps you to connect with your own emotions on many levels. Doesn’t it just feel wonderful to show a pet how much you love them, and see the heartfelt appreciation in their eyes?

Yes, pets are wonderful for you on a mental, physical and emotional level. Taking this into consideration, if you don’t own a pet yet and you are keen to live as long as you can, you might want consider getting one real soon.

If you are looking for quality dicount pet supplies online visit http://www.discountpetsuppliescenter.com/discountpetsupplies/

Pets for Christmas

Pets for Christmas Presents

In general, pets as Christmas presents are a very bad idea. Both for the pet, and for the person receiving the pet. Adopting an animal into the family is very much like having a child. You would not just hand someone a baby for Christmas!

Christmas is a time when families get together. There is a lot of joyful chaos and people rushing here and there with many things to do. In all this, it is very easy to forget the puppy needs a walk, or there is a tiny kitten underfoot who is constantly getting stepped on. In all the confusion new responsibilities can easily be forgotten, such as walking or feeding the puppy.

Animals, and especially young animals, thrive on routine. They like to be fed at a certain time and in a certain place, and often a certain food. Holidays can be hard even on seasoned pets as strangers invade their space and special occasions disturb their daily routine.

For a young animal, this bedlam, however cheerful, can make it seem like they've just arrived in a very bad place. Their mother and the brothers and sisters they know, the caretaker humans who are so familiar to them, all of them have somehow disappeared and been replaced by a gang of strangers. All their familiar routines are disrupted. They have to become accustomed to a new place to sleep, a new food, new place to eat, a new time to eat, and, of course, when and where they are allowed to go to the bathroom. How overwhelming this must be for a young animal!

For the person who receives the pet, and their family it can be equally difficult. They may or may not have wanted the pet at all. It is not uncommon for a child to beg for a pet that is inappropriate or that their family is unwilling or unable to care for. If they get a puppy from Auntie for Christmas, by New Years the puppy may find itself at the Animal Shelter waiting to die, or abandoned somewhere to suffer a slower and more painful death. Never give a pet for Christmas unless you are absolutely sure that the entire family, everyone living in the home the pet is going to, welcomes the new addition.

With the best intentions in the world, a child will beg for a pet and promise to care for it. But children are not in complete control of their worlds or their time. They are still exploring their likes and dislikes, and the puppy that was so important to them last week may be forgotten this week. Playing and walking the puppy might become too time consuming once soccer season begins. Children are also not generally aware of the financial facts of life and pets need vet care, food, toys, shelter, and all of these things cost money. Money their parents may or may not have to spare.

Another problem often occurs when someone other than the family chooses a pet. Perhaps you like very hyper, happy dogs, but the family in question prefers a nice, quiet animal. The puppy you would choose is a wonderful puppy - but not the right puppy for them! Both the animal and the family will be unhappy. The family is faced with dealing with a dog they do not like very much, or disposing of him either by finding a more compatible home - or again, off to the Shelter to die.

A special note about ponies. Every horse person, every animal shelter, has seen their share of the horrible misery that ponies endure at the hands of ignorant or neglectful owners. Ponies, and horses, take a great deal more care than smaller pets. Just because someone has moved into a new home "with room for a pony" does not mean that they have the knowledge and funds to care for such a high maintenance animal.

For the child who is begging for a pony, I suggest that you find a local stable that gives riding lessons. The most responsible ones will also include horsemanship in their training. That is, information about caring for a horse or pony. The child will learn about shoeing, regular vet care, the importance of regular feeding and many other things necessary for the well being of a horse or pony. They will also learn just how much work is really involved! A gift certificate for several months worth of riding lessons will allow the family involved to find out just what they are getting into, and if their interest and finances are up to it.

Perhaps you have considered all of these things, and know the family truly wants a pet. Still, the holidays are a very chaotic time, a terrible time to make a new family addition. Here is my suggestion. Instead of buying the puppy, kitten, pony or ferret - purchase one of those wonderful small plush toy versions of the animal. Pack it into a pretty package with a certificate you can draw up or print on your computer that says "this little puppy is to hold the place in your heart for the real puppy who will arrive (and a good date you have chosen after consulting with the family)" After the holidays the entire family and the gift giver can go together to chose the pet they desire. Then the family will gain a new member who is completely compatible with them and their needs at a time when they are best able to greet this new family addition and see to the animals needs as well.