Crisis Checklist: Saving Your Pet's Life When Disaster Strikes

Help could not come soon enough for the residents of New Orleans and the surrounding Gulf areas. But for devoted animal owners rescue came at a price…leave your pet behind. Having a plan in place before disaster strikes can save both you and your pet’s lives. Here’s what to do now.

General Helpful Hints

1 If you live in an apartment, consider putting an "animals inside" sign on your door. In case of fire, your pet’s chances of survival may increase if the firemen know.

2 Keep carrying cases, leads, etc. in an easily accessible location. If you must leave quickly, time spent looking for these items is time lost.

Know Your Neighbors

The help of a good neighbor can sometimes be your first line of defense.

1. Exchange your house or apartment key with a trusted neighbor. Exchanging keys with a neighbor offers the benefit of proximity. Should an unexpected crisis arise, your neighbor can reach your pets quickly. Friends or family may not know about the problem until it is too late.

2. Make a Plan. Discuss what to do in case of emergency. Do you have a cell phone? Make certain your neighbor has the number as well as any additional telephone numbers where you can be reached such as work or family. Write them on an index card in bold, large print, and laminate it.

3. Fido, Buffy, Max, Celia, Snorky… If you have more than one pet, make certain your neighbor has the following information:

a. The Number of Pets You Have. If they know how many pets they need to find, chances increase greatly all will be rescued.

b. What Type of Animals You Have. If Celia is a goldfish and your neighbor is looking for a dog, Celias’ chances of rescue drop. Make certain you are clear regarding the type of animal your neighbor should find.

c. Location of Pets In Your Home. This is important for caged animals such as birds, snakes, hamsters, etc. Do you keep your dog penned in the backyard? Let them know. The less time your neighbor spends searching for your pets, the more time they have to get them out quickly and safely.

d. Hi. My Name Is… If your neighbor can’t find your pet, they may respond if their names are called. Will they come when you whistle? Tell your neighbor. The more specific information they have, the better your pet’s chance of rescue.

On the Road Again

Before you leave for a vacation or an extended trip, talk with the person who will be caring for your pets. Make certain it is someone you trust such as a responsible family member, friend, or neighbor. If you use a pet sitting service, check their credentials before you leave. Ask for names of other clients who have used their services and call them to see if they were pleased. Better to know before you go rather than returning to an unpleasant surprise.

Discuss specifically what your sitter would do if a crisis arises and always leave contact numbers where you can be reached (hotel, cell phone, etc). Points to consider:

1. If a problem occurs, will your sitter take your pets until you return? If not, give them the name and telephone number of a friend, family member, kennel or doggy spa they can contact to take your pets.

2. If an evacuation occurs, will your sitter take your pets?

3. In case of evacuation, give your sitter the telephone number of a family member or friend outside the effected area who can act as a contact. If you and your sitter cannot reach each other, you can each call the contact who can help relay information.

4. If one must leave the area, prearrange with family or friends within driving distance to take your pets. If you have more than one pet, ask in advance to make certain they can house all of them. If not, find others who can.

Name, Rank and Serial Number

Make certain your pets have proper identification. Include your last name and telephone number as well as the pet’s name on the ID tag. If you have one, consider using a cell phone number in case you and your pet are separated and you can’t go home.

Your Little Black Book

Begin collecting important telephone numbers and information now so you have them if you need them. To gather this information, conduct an Internet search for your area or contact animal associations such as the ASPCA or The Humane Society. Your list should also include your vet and a 24 hour animal hospital.

1. Pet Friendly Shelters: Many shelters may not accept pets in need of a temporary safe haven, but some do. Find the ones in your areas just in case.

2. Dog Friendly Lodging: Should you be displaced, know where to go. If you can’t reach friends or family, the names, addresses, and telephone numbers of hotels and motels which accept pets can be a life saver.

3. Animal Rescue Centers. Even the best laid plans go astray. If this happens, call your local animal shelter or vet and ask if they can provide assistance. If you have more than one pet, confirm that they will be able to take them all.

4. Here are a few starting points for more information.

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals American Veterinary Medical Foundation American Humane Association Petfinder.com

If You Must Evacuate

If the situation becomes so dire you must leave, consider the following. Generally, time is of the essence.

1. Leave as quickly as possible and take your pets with you! Don’t leave your pets behind thinking you can return and get them. Very often, you will not be permitted to return until the crisis is over.

2. If you are driving, load up the animals and hit the road. If you can’t take your pets where you are going, use your back up family member or friend plan first. Then your dog friendly lodging or rescue shelter options. If worse comes to worse, you may be able to find someone along the way who can help you.

3. If you cannot take your pet(s) to a safe place and you MUST evacuate, help improve your pet’s chances to stay alive. Make certain dogs are unchained or uncaged. Pets left alone will rely on their natural instincts to survive.

M. H. Molock is the owner of dogclothes-apparel.com, an online dog clothes and accessories store. She also writes extensively on animal and pet issues. For more pet information and tips, subscribe to her free newsletter at http://www.dogclothes-apparel.com.

Maroon Clownfish

The gold-striped maroon clownfish, or premnas biaculeatus, is one of the most common varieties seen in saltwater home aquariums. It's also one of the largest, growing to as much as six inches in length. While young, the fish are the same maroon/red in the body, but their three vertical body stripes start out white, and gradually take on a yellow hue, turning gold around the time of maturity at one year of age. Like other clownfish, they have a sexual dominance pattern, where they all start out as males, but in a pair of maroon clownfish, the more aggressive fish will develop into a female of larger size. In groups, there will be one large, dominant female, one smaller breeding male, and the rest will remain males that are even smaller, and not sexually active. These are among the easiest of clownfish to breed, and are quite hardy, making them suitable for the new aquarium enthusiast. However, they are also the most aggressive of clownfish, and if you have other varieties in the tank, you can have territorial disputes. They enjoy an aquarium kept at 72-78F, a pH of 8.1-8.4 and a diet of meaty foods.

Which Came First, The Valhund Or The Corgi?

The Swedish Valhund resembles the Welsh Corgi in some respects and there has been much debate as to whether the Corgi or the Valhund came first in the order of the development of this breed. The Valhund in Sweden is certainly one of the older species, having been there historically at least as long ago as the Viking explorations. The word "Valhund" in Sweden means "forest dog" . He is known as a dog of many talents, being not only a cattle drover and herder, but also a watch dog and ratter and general farm dog. At present he is a member of the herding group of the Kennel Club of England and is a member of the Miscellaneous class in the American Kennel Club. When a dog is registered in the Miscellaneous Class of the A.K.C., it is not yet eligible to gain a Championship title.

The Valhund or "S.V". is long in the back and low to the ground. The relationship of his body to his height should be twice the length of the height. The height should be between 12 and 14 inches. His head is remarkably like that of the Corgi, with prick ears and a wedge shape to the skull. The coat is also similar, double in nature and quite dense. The Swedish Valhund should have "harness markings" of a lighter color than the body saddle, this is a required part of the standard of the breed. The Swedish Valhund should also have a fox like appearance to the face and a lighter color "mask" around the eyes. The coat care is minimal, although he sheds on a regular basis and will need extra brushing at that time, the coat is stiff and stands off from the body somewhat, therefore it does not mat easily.

The breed's most important function through the years has been that of a herding dog. He is equipped for this capability because of the lay back of his shoulders, which is quite long and gives him the flexibility to move quickly and make sharp turns . Herding cattle requires that a dog be able to move with speed to avoid being kicked by an angry or recalcitrant cow and the Swedish Valhund should be built to accomplish this.

This is a breed that should become popular as a companion dog when he is seen more in the United States in the show ring. He has all the attributes that make a popular pet breed, being small enough to live in an urban environment and having the temperament to fit well into a household. He is anxious to please and a quick learner, very intelligent and trainable. He of course will want to give chase, this is part of his nature and like all herding dogs should always be in a fenced in area or supervised when outside. He already is experiencing some popularity as an Agility dog and does well in the Obedience ring. He has a stable character and should never be vicious, he is also not territorial and should accept other breeds without jealousy.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

Lyme Disease In Dogs Is A Serious Matter

Lyme disease is caused by an organism known as a spirochete, which is a coiled rod-shaped bacterium and named Borrelia burgdorferi. It is passed to dogs and people by deer ticks carrying the infection; the ticks get the infection from the white-footed mouse, which acts as a carrier. The only way a tick can transmit the bacteria is to remain attached to the animal's skin for one to two days. Unfortunately, these ticks are very small and easily can go unnoticed. Lyme disease in dogs has been found worldwide and in ancient Chinese medical literature they actually describe a syndrome very similar to Lyme disease, thousands of years before Lyme , Connecticut was named. In the United States , more than 90% of the cases occur in the Northeast, with California and Mississippi second. Lyme disease in dogs is fairly common, but rarely seen in cats, although some cats have been infected with it.

The main clinical signs of Lyme disease in dogs include a sudden yet recurring lameness that may shift from leg to leg. Sometimes this lameness is associated with a fever and depression. Occasionally you will see swollen lymph nodes. Sometimes the joints may be swollen, feel warm, and it's very painful. The dog infected will usually walk stiffly with a hunched back. Lyme disease in dogs is really very painful and they commonly are very sensitive to touch and may cry out with even the slightest touch. Many dogs with Lyme disease that were diagnosed with slipped discs in their neck and crying in pain and it was actually Lyme disease causes muscle spasms in the neck and they only improved when they were administered the appropriate antibiotic. Sometimes you will see the classic red round target lesion around a tick bite on your pet and within a few days they may show the signs of lameness, fever and sensitivity to touch. If you suspect your pet has Lyme disease, take them to the vet immediately for treatment.

Treatment

Treatment involves the use of an appropriate antibiotic, such as doxycycline, for at least three to four weeks.

Prognosis

Dogs should begin to show signs of recovery two to three days after beginning treatment. However, the disease may recur within a few weeks or months; in these cases, the dog will need to return to antibiotic therapy for extended periods.

Prevention

There is a vaccine for the prevention of Lyme disease. Quick removal of a tick also will help prevent Lyme disease because the tick must remain attached to the dog's body for one to two days before the disease can be transmitted. Consult with a veterinarian about the different tick prevention products that are available, as they can be an effective way to prevent the disease. The sooner you start treatment, the sooner your pet will be without pain.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

LeeAnna is an expert author who writes for Lyme Disease in Dogs

How to Groom a Bird

Just like dogs and cats, birds also require grooming to maintain optimum health and happiness. The basic essentials to bird grooming are wing clipping, nail clipping, beak filing, preening and bathing.

Wing clipping is one of the most important parts of bird grooming. Not only does it help prevent the bird from flying away or flying into something and hurting itself, it helps the taming process and builds a bond between bird and owner. Be sure, however, that an alternative form of exercise is available since they will no longer be able to fly easily. Big cages and play pens are great for a bird to walk and climb around. The best method for wing clipping is to clip the outer primaries of both wings below the level of the primary coverts. When the new feathers grow in after a few months, wait until they are completely mature before clipping again. New feathers contain a pulp of blood vessels and nerves that will cause profuse bleeding and pain for the bird if clipped.

Nail clipping is essential for both the bird’s and the owner’s comfort. The bird won’t enjoy walking around on long nails and it will be uncomfortable for the owners arm skin if the bird decides to perch there. Be sure not to wait too long before clipping so that the quick doesn’t get any longer. Don’t cut the quick or just as in dogs there will be a lot of pain and bleeding.

Grant Carroll proud father of four dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters Visit Elizabeth Austin Wholesale for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Grant_Carroll

The Siberian Husky: Dog of the North

The Chukchi tribe of the great northern expanses in Siberia was the nomadic tribe which bred the Siberian Husky dogs. The tribe was well known for their remarkable aptitude for breeding these fine dogs as early as 3000 years ago. They were a people who lived inland and hunted along the coastal shores and they used the dogs for pulling back the game, many times over very long distances. Their dogs were bred purely and selectively and consequently the Siberian Husky of today is very directly descended from the original dogs belonging to the Chukchi tribe.

The dog was little known in the United States or in Europe until the first "Alaska Sweepstakes" (later known as the Iditarod) was run and a team of Siberian huskies won. In later expeditions to the North Pole, the Siberian was a major player also. This beautiful and intelligent breed became a favorite of the Russian explorers and was extensively used throughout Siberia. For many years it was known as the "Chukchi" dog, but in the United States the name "Siberian Husky " was coined, while in Great Britain the same breed was often called the "Arctic Husky".

The Siberian Husky is a strikingly beautiful dog. The eyes are almond shaped and slightly slanted, the skull is clean and refined, with very soft upright well furred ears lending an intelligent and alert look to the head. Often there is a definite mask and sometimes the eyes are a pale blue or golden yellow in color. The coat is soft and densely furred and can be of any color, usually very symmetrically marked. He is a medium sized dog, classed as a "working dog" with great stamina and speed being the hallmark of the breed. Because of his close association with the Chukchi tribe, being considered a "member of the family", he is a very people oriented dog and does not have as strong a "pack mentality" as for example the Alaskan Malamute and some of the other husky breeds who were bred to pull in a pack exclusively.

The Siberian Husky entered the American Kennel Club registry in 1930 and his popularity has grown beyond that of being only a Show Dog. He is used extensively as a Therapy Dog, doing well in Obedience and Agility and is of course also used still as a racing sled dog. The "Sibe" as he is affectionately termed, is a friendly and completely amiable dog, quite easy to train and very willing to please. Temperamentally he is non-aggressive to other dogs and to people. He is comparatively easy to groom, for even though he has a thick coat it is not excessively long and is simple to maintain for it seldom mats and is completely weather proof. Besides all of that, he is a healthy breed which has very few genetic anomalies or inherited problems. He is an adaptable dog, but definitely needs plenty of exercise, for he was bred to be a working dog and needs to be kept busy or he will find something to occupy himself with. He is above all an "easy keeper" and a happy companion dog who loves to work for his master.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

Does My Pit Bull Look Fat To You? Dog Health Information

Let’s face it, we love our pets. Sometimes that love can lead pet owners to pamper their pets just a little too much when it comes to food and treats. This over indulgence has the same effects on our pets as it does on us when we over eat or snack a little too often, we get fat. If you add in not getting enough exercise, then it is a problem compounded.

Yes, pets too can suffer from being obese. Statistics show that one in four pets weigh in the overweight or obese category. It is a problem which carries a lot of health risks to our four legged loved ones, and it is a problem that we as owners must handle.

As a Pit Bull owner, I know first hand how good it makes your pet feel to get those special treats, and how hard it is to not give them when it results in getting the loving look that only your Pit Bull can give. I also know as a Pit Bull owner that this particular breed needs a lot of regular exercise. Pit Bulls are very athletic and energetic by their very nature, and if they do not get enough exercise they are not happy. The dog also runs the risk of being overweight, which puts him at risk.

I realize that some Pit Bull owners would ask, “What’s the worst that a little weight could do?� Well the answer is that a little weight would do no harm, but if left unchecked the weight gain could quickly put your Pit Bull into the obese category. Some of the common ailments brought on by canine obesity are heart problems, arthritis and even diabetes. An overweight pet is also more susceptible to a hip condition known as dysplasia, as well as problems with the back and joints.

By now you’re probably glancing over to your Pit Bull trying to quickly gauge if your pet is within acceptable weight limits. Glancing isn’t going to give you an accurate answer, but if you’d like to do a quick home pet obesity test, then here’s how to do it.

First, get your Pit Bull to stand in front of you, and look at him from above. Your Pit Bull should have the shape more of an hour glass than say, an ocean liner. A dog with rounded out sides is certainly getting into the obese range. You should also be able to feel your dog’s ribs easily. Don’t press hard on your beloved pet; we don’t want to hurt him.

Keep regular vet appointments for your Pit Bull, as your veterinarian will also be checking your pet’s weight. Your veterinarian can also advise you on how you can get your pet back into optimum shape should he weigh in a bit too much.

To learn all about finding a pitbull for sale and training a Pit Bull, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Dog Training - Step 2 to the Canine Good Citizen Title

Step 2 of 10 to earning a Canine Good Citizen title for your dog is the following:

"Sitting Politely for Petting. Goal: Evaluator pets dog. Dog must show no shyness or resentment."

If you did the training I suggested in Step 1, this one ought to be a breeze for you and your dog. To briefly recap, you want to first work with someone you know that can help by ignoring the dog if he jumps up or barks, growls, or hides behind you. By not looking at the dog and ignoring what he is doing, the other person is showing that unwanted behavior is not acceptable.

Once the dog obeys your "sit" command, then, the other person can speak to the dog, even pet him if the dog stays seated. Once the sit is broken, though, the helper needs to return to the ignoring stance.

Then, you've taken the dog to parks and other places where people are likely to be and asked some of them to help you teach your dog to sit quietly while you either speak briefly to the person, or the person is asked to pet the dog, so long as he will sit still. Explain to them before you permit them to pet the dog that you're trying to teach the dog to sit quietly for petting and if the dog jumps up, to please refrain from petting him at that time. It is rewarding unwanted behavior. Most people will have no problem with that.

Lastly, you want to teach the dog to be around children's playgrounds with all the quick-moving little bodies and shouting going on. This will also be useful in another phase of the title work, but for now, you're looking to find some children that will also listen to you when you ask them to pet your dog and to stop if he gets up from the sit. With children, though, I suggest you ask them to please pet the dog under the chin first.

Actually, that's an excellent way to approach any dog. Reaching for the head is perceived by the dog as a domination action and might result in problems. Reaching for the chin, however, is the greeting of an equal or subordinate. You've seen dogs lick another's chin, haven't you? By asking people to first scratch the dog's chin, then move to the head or back, you slowly let the newcomer dominate your dog rather than starting out that way.

It shouldn't take long for your dog to calm down enough on meeting people that he can easily pass the second test for the Canine Good Citizen title.

(The information in quotes at the beginning of this article is involved in the CGC test taken from the AKC test scoresheet.)

C. Rogers Upson has been training dogs and studying them for nearly 40 years. Her website is Dog Potentials and she has two dog-related stores at Keeping to the Borders and Dog Potentials-The Store.

Training your puppy - start by winning his respect and confidence

The basis of training any animal is winning its trust, confidence and respect. True training cannot begin until the animal has accepted you as its leader, respects you and entrusted you with his or her confidence. The mistake many puppy owners make is mistaking love and affection for respect and confidence. While it is certainly important to love your new puppy, it is also very important that the puppy respect you and see you as his leader. Dogs are naturally pack animals, and every dog looks to the lead dog for advice and direction. Making yourself the pack leader is vital to the success of training any dog. Failure to gain the respect of the dog can create a dog who is disobedient, out of control and even dangerous. Problem dogs are dangerous, whether they are created through bad breeding, owner ignorance or improper training. It is important to train the dog right from the start, since retraining a problem dog is much more difficult than training a puppy right the first time. It is important for any new dog owner, whether working with a 12 week old puppy or a twelve year old dog, to immediately get the respect of the animal. That does not mean using rough or dangerous handling methods, but it does mean letting the dog know that you are in control of the situation. Dogs need structure in their lives, and they will not resent the owner taking control. As a matter of fact, the dog will appreciate your taking the role of trainer and coach as you begin your training session. When working with the dog, it is important to keep the training sessions short at first. This is particularly important when working with a young puppy, since puppies tend to have much shorter attention spans than older dogs. Keeping the training sessions short, and fun, is essential for proper training. Beginning training sessions should focus on the most basic commands. The heel command is one of the most basic, and one of the easiest to teach. Start by putting the dog or puppy in a properly fitted training collar. Be sure to follow the instructions for fitting and sizing the color to ensure that it works as intended. Begin to walk and allow your dog to walk beside you. If the dog begins to pull, gently pull on the leash. This in turn will tighten the training collar and correct the dog. If the gentle pressure is ineffective, it may be necessary to slowly increase the pressure. Always be careful to not over-correct the dog. Using too much pressure could frighten the dog and cause it to strain more. I the opposite problem occurs and the dog lags behind, the owner should gently encourage it until it is walking beside the owner. Most dogs figure out the heeling concept fairly rapidly, and quickly figure out that they should walk beside their owners, neither lagging behind nor pulling ahead. Once the dog has mastered heeling at a moderate pace, the owner should slow his or her pace and allow the dog to adjust along with it. The owner should also speed up the pace and allow the dog to speed up as well. Finally, walking along and changing pace often will reinforce the lesson that the dog should always walk at the heel of the handler. >From heeling, the next step should be to halt on command. This halt command works well as an adjunct to heel. As you are walking, stop and watch you dog. Many dogs immediately realize that they are expected to stop when their handler does. Others may need the reminder of the leash and the training collar. After the halt on command has been mastered, the handler should encourage the dog to sit on command as well. Once the dog has stopped, the handler gently pushes on the dog's hindquarters to encourage the sit. Usually, after this walk, halt, sit procedure has been done a few times, the dog will begin to sit on his own each time he stops. Of course, it is important to provide great praise, and perhaps even a treat, every time the dog does as he is expected.

How to Correct Your Dog's Stay on the Agility Starting Line

Does your Agility Dog Stay everywhere but on the starting line? My "over the edge Border Collie", started breaking her start line stays after about one year of trialing. I had to go back and examine the cause and what lead to the deterioration of her start line stay.

As I pull pieces of the past, I realize that at first I asked my dog, Rip, to Sit-stay at the start line. But she began to lean and scoot, so I changed to a Down-stay. She did this for a while until she began to crawl and creep. Then I would walk away for a lead out, but I would continue to face her, by being face to face, that would help her to hold her position, well it did for a while. Then I started getting breakaways, she would no longer wait at the starting line, as soon as I started to step away from her side, and she would be off. That's when I pulled her from trialing.

Why did her behavior get worse at the start line? Because I started to negotiate with my dog, way back when she moved from the Sit-stay, I should have made it clear that the Sit -stay was the only behavior that would bring the reward of running agility. What I mistook as, "Oh, I'm asking too much for my edgy dog to Sit-Stay on the line." She took as, "Mom, doesn't really mean what she says when we're in this fenced ring with lots of people around." So, she began to test every behavior I asked for on the line. Dogs will do what we allow.

If your dog begins to break its start-line stay, whether that is a stand, sit, or down, STOP immediately. Don't run your run. I know you've paid your entry fees, but you'll be spending a lot more time and money fixing the problem when it gets worse. For some dogs, taking them off the course is deterrent enough to get back on track. For other dogs you may have to "train" your stay in the ring, of course you also, may be called for training and excused from the ring, but it's most important that your dog know that the fun can not and will not start until the Stay stays.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Brad Carlson is a dog trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at www.carlson-agility.com/

Weaning A Bottle-Fed Kitten

Weaning normally occurs at 4-5 weeks of age, but keep in mind that some kittens take longer, particularly without their mom to show them the ropes. You will know that a kitten is ready to begin the weaning process when it is biting the feeding nipple and is able to lick formula from your finger.

The next step is to persuade the kitten to lap up formula from a spoon. Once they've accomplished that hurdle, try offering formula in a small, flat dish.

If the kittens appear to need encouragement to lap from a bowl, dip your fingertip in the formula and let him lick it off your fingers as you move them down to the bowl. DO NOT push their nose into the dish as they can aspirate the fluid and develop pneumonia! Once the kittens become accustomed to lapping liquids you can add weaning formula or baby cereal by combining them with the formula. While the kittens are grasping the art of eating from a bowl you will still need to bottle-feed them and monitor the amount of formula and food they are consuming. Always offer food from the bowl first, and then offer the bottle. When you see they are eating well from the bowl begin to decrease the amount of formula they are receiving from the bottle.

At that point, you can mix the kitten formula with baby food into a gruel and try to get the kittens to lap it up from a dish or a spoon. We recommend Chicken Baby Food but any meat flavor will do, just be absolutely sure there are no onions in the list of ingredients. You can also try using Dr. Hill's A/D brand which is sold at any veterinarians. Eventually, you can mix canned kitten food (we recommend Wellness, Avo Derm, Nutro Max Kitten or any other premium brand of kitten food) with formula, gradually reducing the amount of formula until the kittens are eating just the food. Try to buy high quality food for the kittens (from the vet or pet food stores). Much of what is sold in supermarkets is junk food and will not help your kitten thrive. It is not uncommon for weight gain to slow and minor, temporary diarrhea to occur during weaning.

Some kittens grasp the concept right away; others take days. Keep bottle feeding while weaning to make sure they get enough to eat. Reduce bottle feeding as their solid-food consumption grows. If you give dry food, moisten it, because kittens can’t chew dry food well until they are about 8 weeks old.

Never make the mistake of rushing the weaning process. It may seem slow and often messy, but it is an essential part of learning for the kittens and they are doing the best they can without their mother to help them. Never give up and NEVER get upset!

Remember, these changes in diet can quickly cause diarrhea, so keep an eye on your kitten's stools. Diarrhea can be life-threatening to a young kitten if left untreated; however a dose of antibiotics prescribed by your vet will get them back on track again.

Anne Pottinger is the owner, director and publisher of 4PetsOnline.com a pet and domestic animal website with a difference. This user-friendly website contains hundreds of pages of information covering pet selection and care advice, as well as many humorous and often poignant articles.

She is always available to answer pet and domestic animal related questions.

The German Shepherd Dog

Dogs called German Shepherds were first exhibited at shows in Germany towards the end of the nineteenth century but they were hardly Shepherds as we know them today being rough coated, short tailed and rather resembling mongrels. The German Shepherd Dog as we now know it didn't really appear until after the Second World War.

The breed has grown enormously in popularity and is now one of the most popular pedigree breeds in the UK as a pet, it is still the favourite working breed for many forces especially the police and they are widely used for security purposes.

It is a fine sight to see a well-trained GSD with his handler, working well to serve and protect. Unfortunately one of the saddest sites is the poor GSD used to guard premises often chained up alone in some dismal filthy yard with a lifetime of incarceration and little stimulation to look forward to.

The German Shepherd is a highly intelligent beast who will show undying devotion to his master but he is a dog that needs company and stimulation to be at his best.

If you are thinking of buying a German Shepherd Dog as a pet and you have not previously owned one, it is important to research the breed and talk to experienced owners so that you fully understand what you are taking on. GSD's do indeed make wonderful family pets but it is important to remember that this is a working breed and that they do have certain characteristics that can make them more difficult than your average Retriever, Labrador or Collie.

The characteristics of a good working GSD should be firmness of nerve, attentiveness, unshockability, tractability, watchfulness, reliability, and incorruptibility together with courage tenacity and hardness. A German Shepherd is naturally protective and territorial which is something to bear in mind if you have lots of visitors to your house when careful introduction may be required to assure your pet that the visitor is not a threat to his family.

This is also a breed that requires a lot of time, stimulation, training and exercise - you will never wear them out, they will always be ready for more. A bored, lonely GSD can be very destructive and can cause an awful lot of damage to property in a short space of time.

Perhaps some of the less endearing traits of this breed are the tendency to be very vocal which can be a big nuisance and may be a problem with neighbours. They also shed hair in copious amounts all year round so your vacuum cleaner will work overtime and it's unlikely that your clothes and furnishings will ever be free of dogs hairs again as well as what you are eating invariably being contaminated with that stray hairs.

The biggest problem with the German Shepherd Dog is the fact that to a large extent the breed is being spoilt by irresponsible breeding by inexperienced back street breeders who care nothing about preserving the breed but only about making money from the selling of puppies, Health and temperament problems are all too common, so it is important to take expert advice and try and find a reputable source if you are contemplating buying a puppy.

Consider first taking on a rescue German Shepherd Dog from a reputable rescue that should be able to give you a good assessment of a particular dog. Remember too that an older GSD will be a very rewarding addition to the family and will be housetrained, won't chew, well behaved, probably require less exercise than a young dog and will be very loyal and grateful.

German Shepherd Dog Written by Jayne Shenstone who runs German Shepherd Rescue UK which helps rescue and rehome GSD's across the UK

An introduction to Clicker Training for Dogs

Clicker Training for Dogs What is a 'clicker'? A clicker is simply a small plastic box, containing a metal plate which, when pressed, makes a 'click' sound. What is clicker training? Clicker Training is a method of 'positive reinforcement training' - that is, rewarding the behaviours that we like instead of punishing behaviours that we don't like. When the dog does what we want him to do, we 'click' and give him a treat. So, we train the dog to understand that the 'click' means "well done" and that a treat is coming. Benefits of Clicker Training The benefit of the clicker is that it makes a consistent sound and we can make the sound at the very moment that the dog is carrying out the behaviour that we like. The dog will learn to associate the good behaviour with the 'click' and the forthcoming treat, and will learn to repeat the behaviour. Of course, we can be positive just by saying "good dog" however, there are some potential problems with this. We will inevitably use a different tone depending on what mood we are in, so it is not a consistent sound; dogs are very sensitive to body language and tone so will receive mixed signals depending on your mood! The other main problem is timing - by the time we have said "good dog", the dog may have stopped the positive behaviour and started doing something else. Dogs do not have the power to determine which one of the behaviours is the good one, so again they receive a mixed signal. Where do you start with Clicker Training? The most important thing you need is your clicker! The next thing you'll need are some treats. You will need small, easy to eat, tasty treats - something that will really make his mouth water! They must be quick to eat because this is a dynamic, fast way to train, so you don't want him spending ages crunching through huge biscuits! Cheese, cut up into small pieces is irresistible to most dogs, or cooked sausages cut up. The treats need to be easily accessible - either in a loose pocket or a bag carried around your waist perhaps. Now, start somewhere with minimal distractions. Our first aim is show the dog the meaning of the clicker. Stand in front of him, click ONCE and give a treat. At this point, the dog doesn't have to do anything for his treat - he just needs to learn the association of the 'click' and treat routine. Spend some time doing a 'click', then treat. Generally give 1 treat but very occasionally, 'jackpot' with a handful of treats. Being unpredictable is a good trick to use with dogs - he'll eventually work harder because although he knows he'll get a treat anyway, it'll be in the back of his mind that he might just get 5 treats if he does something extra special! He will very quickly learn that a 'click' means that a treat it coming - you will see the recognition in his behaviour. His ears will prick at the 'click' sound, he may get excited, his behaviour will show when he expects a treat following the 'click'. The Top 3 Clicker Training Rules 1. ALWAYS treat after a click - even if you've accidentally clicked. The dog must have absolute faith in the 'click means treat' routine. Do not let the kids have the clicker to play with as a toy - even if they're in a different room to the dog, he WILL hear it and will be tormented if his treats don't follow. The clicker is the dog's toy and no-one else's!! 2. Only click ONCE. Don't get excited when he does wonderful things and 'click, click, click, click' - this takes the consistency out of the 'click' and treat routine. One click is perfectly sufficient!! 3. Keep training sessions short and sweet, preferably around five minutes. They should be fun for both of you; fun for him because he's getting lots of treats and is using his brain, and fun for you because it is far easier to train him than you ever imagined - but keep it fun by keeping it short! When he is responding to the 'click' and visibly waiting for his treat, you are ready to move on to the next section on teaching basic clicker training commands.

Soft Or Hard Dog Food – Which Is Best?

Sometimes dog owners are faced with a dilemma regarding what type pf dog food to provide their dogs. Dogs themselves tend to prefer the moist, canned types of food. They are more aromatic and naturally tempting to the dogÂ’s palate than the dry kibble that comes in a bag. A dogÂ’s dental health, however, relies on the dog being able to chew hard and crunchy items and dry kibble foods serve this purpose well. WhatÂ’s an owner to do?

Some owners make a two pronged approach when selecting dog food for their furry friends. They will mix a portion of dry food with canned, effectively giving their dog the “best of both worlds.� If you are feeding canned food to your dog, you’ll definitely want to supplement it in some way with something that the dog can chew and crunch. Chew toys and dog biscuits or treats can help to serve this purpose.

Remember that a dog’s health depends greatly on the nutritional value of its food. A dog is only as healthy as the food that it eats, in many respects. The food you buy for your dog should meet its nutritional needs as best as possible, whether it is dry or moist. Unfortunately when it comes to dog food you get what you pay for. Store brands and generics tend to be made with cheaper ingredients and lots of fillers. They’ll feed your dog, but they may not be the best choices for it. The more expensive brands like Science Diet and Eukanuba which advertise that they are “specially formulated� really, to a certain extent, are. They will have higher quality ingredients and are better suited to meet your dog’s needs.

Truly, as long as you are providing a good method for your dog to work out its choppers on a regular basis, it doesnÂ’t matter whether youÂ’re using dry food or moist. During regular veterinary checkups your vet will examine the dogÂ’s teeth and will warn you if thereÂ’s any issue that needs to be corrected by providing a different type of food or some dietary supplement.

The reason that dogs need to be able to chew on hard materials is twofold. It strengthens their teeth and works out the muscles of their jaw, keeping the teeth strong and the jaws powerful. It also provides a form of dental care. Owners should brush their dogsÂ’ teeth at least twice a week. If this is not possible, however, crunchy foods like kibble and biscuits act as a sort of natural toothbrush for the dog, loosening plaque and tartar and cleaning the teeth.

Choosing the right food for your dog is important, both for the poochÂ’s nutritional needs and its good dental health. If you prefer to provide your dog the tastier soft, moist foods that come in a can thatÂ’s fine, just make sure youÂ’re also providing something for Rover to really sink his teeth into.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

Like Our Human Friends Can Us Dogs Have Allergies?

Humor magazines have had fun with the way some dog owners resemble their dogs but, whether or not the dogs look like their owners, dogs do suffer many of the same illnesses. Dogs, just like humans, can become unhealthily obese from bad eating habits and not enough exercise. Dogs can also acquire diseases like diabetes, heart disease and gum diseases that cause dental problems and bad breath. Dogs can also, believe it or not, develop allergies.

Just like people, dogs get itchy skin and watery eyes from contact with things that they are allergic to. Other allergies can cause the dog to develop flu-like symptoms such as diarrhea and throwing up.

Dogs with allergies are not as uncommon as you may think; some experts, in fact, say that one out of every five dogs will have an allergic reaction to some substance.

If your dog has allergies the treatment is pretty much just a two-step procedure: 1) Get the dog to a veterinarian to determine what triggered the allergic reaction and 2) Do whatever is necessary to protect the dog from further exposure to whatever it was that caused the allergic reaction.

Following are descriptions of some of the most common allergies in dogs.

Flea allergies. No one will be surprised to hear that dogs get fleas or that the fleas torment the dog, but most people may not be aware that some dogs are actually allergic to flea bites. The problem is, when a flea bites a dog, it leaves behind a bit of it's saliva in the bitten area. It's this saliva that causes an allergic reaction in some dogs.

If your veterinarian determines that your dog is allergic to flea bites the obvious remedy is to get rid of all the fleas in and around your house. It will be hard work and you may want to bring in a professional exterminator and get all new bedding for your dog. Also, if fleas are a special health risk to your dog, you'll need to keep it isolated from any other dog that may have fleas.

Food allergies. Food allergies are perhaps the easiest allergies to avoid. To have an allergic reaction to some food, your dog must eat the food and, as any good veterinarian will tell you, your dog should be eating nothing except its dog food. Table scraps for a dog should be considered toxic. Dogs may act like they love it when you feed them off your plate but sooner or later something they eat will either make them sick or trigger an allergic reaction. Remember that the food we humans eat contains preservatives, food coloring and artificial sweeteners; most of that stuff is harmless for most people but most of it can be really unhealthy for a dog.

Skin allergies. Dogs can suffer from dermatitis as an allergic reaction to the ordinary impurities in the air; impurities such as mold and dust; the technical term for this is “atopic dermatitis.� The dermatitis may show up as a rash that is visible on some dogs but are barely visible on others but, in most cases, you'll see your dog biting and licking its paws, stomach or groin. It may be fleas or it may be an allergic skin rash -- check it out!

Bacteria allergies. It is not common for a dog to be allergic to staphylococcus (staph) bacteria on its skin but when it happens it develops some dramatic symptoms such as hair loss, red blotches on the skin and possibly the development of pus pockets(pustules) filled with fluid. The staph bacteria itself is not rare -- its virtually everywhere in some amount -- but this type of reaction to it is, fortunately, very rare. Your dog is more likely to develop a bacterial allergy if it is in other ways unhealthy or if it has other serious allergies.

Your veterinarian will run some tests on your dog's blood and will determine the nature of the bacteria and the most likely cure -- most likely some antibiotic or an immune stimulant.
We all love our dogs and hate to see them sick or in pain. Whenever your dogs behavior becomes frantic or, at the other extreme, fatigued or when you notice anything abnormal in its behavior or physically, it is best to get your veterinarian involved as fast as possible.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Gary Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies he occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Gary is also the author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

Older Dog Health Concerns

Just like people living longer lives, there are many older dogs living longer lives than their ancestors. Some of the reasons for this are better foods, numerous vaccines against all types of viruses or germs, and much more advanced dog health care. There are also many treatments available for a wide assortment of illnesses that were not possible only a short time ago. Your dog today has a much better chance of making it to his older years, but there are many things to keep in mind when they get there.

An older dog has different nutritional needs than a younger one. There are special foods that cater to an aging canine, providing all the vitamins that their bodies need. You especially want to watch their daily caloric intake as they will be less active than they were when they were younger. This means their metabolism will be lower and they will be prone to gaining weight. Older dogs should not be overweight as it is a big risk on their overall health. Follow the guidelines on the food bag to keep your dog at the ideal weight in their golden years.

An older dog may also experience problems with their hearing and vision, similar to an aging human. It is always smart to take your dog to the veterinarian annually as recommended so these important things can be monitored. Like mentioned before they may also become less active and even develop arthritis. Arthritis makes it painful for them to run around like they used to, and may even make it difficult to do some of the basic things like going to the bathroom. You need to be patient with them and help them through this as it is no fault of their own. Your pet is simply aging like we all do.

One other thing to monitor as your dog become older is to make sure they get the calories they need. While you don't want them to be overweight, you also don't want them to be too skinny. Having dental issues can make it difficult for them to chew their food and cause them to experience a loss of appetite. They also may become depressed and not want to eat if they don't feel well. Speak with your vet if this is the case as you need to make sure your pet is comfortable and getting the proper nutritional intake each day.

As dogs age they have different health needs than they used to. By knowing these and openly discussing them with your veterinarian you can help them stay happy and healthy through their later years. Your dog is a big part of your family. It is your responsibility to keep them healthy throughout their entire lives. With a little awareness you can insure they are as happy as possible even if they are less active.

James McDonald writes for discount-dog-products.com where you can find many types of discount dog products for a variety of uses. Plus we have many helpful articles on a variety of topics related to your canine family member.

Social Robotic Dogs in Kennels

Have you ever been to a dog kennel and listen to all the noise of the dog’s barking, yapping and howling? The often do not seem like happy campers. Maybe they are, who knows; what I do know is if I were a dog I would not want to be put in a cage. Dogs have four feet and paws for traction, they are built to run and jump, explore and dig. Sticking them on a concrete floor in a cage, well that is not my idea of a good time. So, here is a through. We introduce good looking, in dog terms; social robotic dogs to each kennel.

They cruise around and discuss dog things with all the animals there and promote good behavior and happiness. Now before you say this guy is nuts, please be advised that Robotic Dogs already exist and people like them a lot. Dogs also like to play with their robotic friends.

http://www.carouselmalinois.com/silverimages/indi12wks1.jpg

If we put these in kennels then dogs will be much happier and not make so much noise. When the owners leave a dog in a kennel it could very much upset the animal and cause tensions in the animal pet, human relationship. Introducing social robotic dogs to enhance proper behavior, eating habits, etc. could easily be done and as we learn more about these things eventually the robotic dogs would make excellent trainers for rescue, security, sniffing and seeing eye dogs. Think on this a bit.

"Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

Dog Care: 6 Easy Steps for a Terrific (and Safe) Romp in the Woods

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks....

What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you’ll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.

I don’t know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I’ve developed a list of easy dog care to-do’s to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.

I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:

1. Orange vests for you and your dog

This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn’t see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don’t shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don’t be the next casualty -- don your orange vests!

2. Current dog tags on collars

Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read "I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx". This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn’t provide information for an easy abduction. I don’t want someone to know my babies’ names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.

3. Foot and body check during and after the outing

I check my dogs’ paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season -- gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.

4. Fresh water and a bowl

If I can help it, I don’t let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.

5. Towels

I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.

6. Whistle -- long range

Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don’t like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.

These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.

Happy hiking!

O’Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. For many years, she has "worked miracles" with dogs and their owners. Check out her dog training blog for her advice about everything dog!

Protecting Our Dogs

People seem to marvel at small dogs wearing clothing. They are just so cute you want to hug them! Not only are they cute but clothing can be functional too! Short haired dogs benefit from sweaters or coats in cold weather. Long haired dogs that live in the house really benefit from a rain slicker in wet weather keeping the wet dog smell down.

Hunting dogs benefit from leather boots to protect their feet from sharp rocks. Rubber boots help protect the feet from tracking mud into the house. Insulated boots help with the frost factor in some of the areas that have lots of freezing weather. Antifreeze chemicals used in deicing streets in cold weather states hurt dogs paws, the animals may start licking them and end up ingesting the toxins. Ingested antifreeze toxins can shut down your dogs kidneys. To prevent this, it is necessary to wash the dogs� paws in warm water immediately.

An Article in the Moscow News

“Dogs need to go for daily walks-and because Moscow’s sub-zero temperatures and sidewalks may be covered in ice or harmful chemicals to melt it, warm clothing and even shoes for dogs become not only practical but also humane.� “In temperatures of minus 15 degrees Celsius or below, it is imperative to put coats on dogs.� Said Valeria Shishmaryova, a veterinarian at the Movet Clinic in western Moscow. When the weather is not that cold, Shishmaryova said, dog owners should take two factors into account: breed and age.

Because of the companionship, entertainment and unconditional love dogs give us it stands that we humans are willing to care for mans best friend by spending millions to protect, dress and entertain them.

About the Author

Judi Burns lives on a small horse ranch where she breeds and trains horses. She has three constant companions Libby (Border collie), Red and Wendy (Aussies). Libby is a retired Search and Rescue dog. Judi and three of her horses are certified and active in Mounted Search and Rescue. Judi also sells on-line dog apparel.

dog apparel

Chronic and/or Recurrent Urinary Tract Infections

Urinary tract infection (UTI, cystitis) refers to a condition in the urinary bladder (sometimes also involving the kidneys) caused by infection, usually with bacteria. In people, the condition is most often seen in women and girls, but in dogs it is common in both males and females. UTI is uncommon in cats. In people the signs of UTI often include fever, feeling sick, back pain, lower abdominal (bladder) cramping, an uncontrollable urge to urinate frequently, and passage of small amounts of urine. Blood is sometimes present in the urine. Dogs most often have no signs that can be seen by either the owner or the veterinarian. When signs are present in dogs, they include an obvious need to urinate more frequently than normal (frequent attempts to urinate on walks, asking to be let outside more often). Cats may use the litter box more often than is normal and may spend more time in the litter box. Both dogs and cats may be seen to pass bloody urine. Some owners may notice that their pet has increased thirst or a change in the odor of its urine when UTI is present. Your veterinarian can make a diagnosis of UTI by taking a small sample of urine from your pet. The sampling procedure may involve introducing a catheter into the bladder through the pet's urethra, but is most easily done by inserting a small needle on a syringe into the bladder through the abdomen from the outside. This can easily be accomplished by your veterinarian with essentially no pain or risk to your pet. The urine sample must be obtained in a sterile manner that does not result in contamination of the sample by bacteria from outside the urinary tract. For this reason, owner-obtained samples of urine (catch samples) are not appropriate for determination of the presence or absence of UTI. Your veterinarian will analyze the urine (urinalysis) and examine a small amount of the urine under a microscope. If bacteria and/or white blood cells (WBCs, "pus cells") are seen during this examination, your veterinarian will suggest that the urine be cultured. In some instances your veterinarian will send the urine sample to a laboratory for examination and/or culture. If bacteria are grown on culture, it means that an infection is present and an antibiotic "sensitivity test" may be performed on the bacteria. This determines the antibiotics to which the infection is most sensitive. In this way, your veterinarian can select the right antibiotic to kill the infection. It may take 2 or 3 working days before complete information is available to your veterinarian. The antibiotic that your veterinarian selects will usually be in pill, capsule, or liquid form for oral use (for you to give to your pet). Depending on the antibiotic, you will need to give medicine to your pet from once to three times each day for at least 2 weeks (sometimes longer than 2 weeks but rarely shorter). Your veterinarian, or a technician who works at your veterinary hospital, can show you how to give the antibiotic to your pet and can answer any questions you have regarding the technique involved, side effects of the antibiotic, and so on. Your veterinarian should reculture your pet's urine during the second week of antibiotic treatment. This culture is to be certain that the antibiotic is working to kill the bacteria causing the UTI. The results should be negative (no bacterial growth). A second reculture 10 to 14 days after completion of treatment is also recommended. Results of this culture tell your veterinarian whether, as sometimes happens, the UTI has come back after treatment. If the result of this culture is also negative, your pet is not likely to have another UTI, at least in the near future. If infection is present, however, at either recheck, a new antibiotic susceptibility test must be performed and, in all likelihood, a new antibiotic selected on the basis of results of the test. If the pet has three or more episodes of UTI in the course of 1 year, the infections are said to be recurrent. In this special and uncommon case, after an infection has been eliminated (culture-negative urine), a daily dose of an antibiotic is often given on a long-term basis (6 months is recommended) to prevent future episodes of UTI. This low-dose, preventive treatment is usually effective in preventing future UTI. Frequent urine cultures are necessary, however, to verify this fact for the individual pet. It is not known why pets have UTI. It is known that certain diseases, certain types of medicines, and certain breeds of dogs are associated with UTI more often than normal. It is also known that it is important to recognize and treat UTI because, if left untreated, UTI can cause serious kidney ailment and bladder stones, as well as potentially serious infections in other parts of the body. The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin any course of treatment without consulting your regular veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every 12 months.

The Kooikerhundje: Dutch Decoy Dog

The Kooikerhundje has existed in the Netherlands since before the 1500s. The Kooikerhundje is a unique dog which is directly related to the dog which is known in the United States as the Nova Scotian Duck Toller. It is believed that the Toller is descended from the Kooiker. The body build of the Kooikerhundje is quite similar to the Duck toller but the coloring of the Kooiker is red and white. Like the duck toller, it is the heavily fringed white "feather" of his constantly moving tail which lures the ducks to the hunter, thus the term "decoy dog" is used to describe the function of the two breeds. In the case of the Kooikerhundje, the dog historically could be classified as a working dog rather than a hunting dog, for the Dutch people used the dog to lure the ducks into various blinds which a farmer would set up alongside the canals. A "decoy dog" would disappear into a blind only to reappear on the other side and the ducks would follow out of curiosity. Eventually the farmer and the dog would have captured a number of ducks which could then be taken to market. Gradually the industrial revolution took over and marketplaces which sold live animals became less plentiful. By 1939 the breed was nearly extinct in Holland but through the passionate work of Baroness van Hardenbroek the breed began to regain its former status and by 1966 the Dutch Kennel Club officially recognized the breed. Also it is interesting to note that the Kooiker of today is again performing its original function, being used by conservation organizations in Holland to lure the ducks into holding pens for the purposes of classification.

The Kooikerhundje history includes an interesting note that a Kooikerhundje belonging to Prince William of Orange saved his life by alerting him of an attack by the Spanish. He is a loyal and faithful dog as a pet in a household and is a useful and intelligent hunting dog for the duck hunter of today. In the F.C.I. this dog is registered within the gundog group. The Kooikerhundje breed is also recorded with the Foundation Stock Service of the A.K.C. The first litter of a Kooikerhundje was registered as recently as 1999 in the United States.

This medium sized dog is red and white in color and of a size similar to that of a Brittany Spaniel. He has proven himself to be a loyal and affectionate companion dog and is considered to perform well as a Therapy Dog and as an Assistance Dog. Search and rescue groups are also beginning to utilize this breed as a Search Dog and value him for his focus and easy trainability. The dog possesses a strong willingness to work. Historically it is the working breeds which seem to produce the type of dog which will function well in these areas.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

The Shih Tzu's Relationship To The Pekingese

Some westerner breeders challenge the assumption that the Shih Tzu from Tibet were on occasion interbred with the native Pekingese to reduce the Shih Tzu to a smaller size. However, there are those in China at the time who probably have a better position to know exactly what did happen. There are several statements made by different people who was actually in China at the time the Shih Tzu were crossed with the Pekingese. Colonel Valentine Burkhardt for one points out that the Shih Tzu were most definitely crossed with the Pekingese. The Chinese did not breed by pedigree. They bred according to the image they had of the Lion Dog. Cross-breeding with the Pekingese was apparently done to reduce the size of the Shih Tzu. It is also felt the cross-breedings occurred to flatten the forehead, making it more lion-like in Chinese eyes. There was a definite "Peke cross" in England in 1952 with the specific purpose of eliminating certain faults in the breed. The cross was done with the full knowledge of the British Kennel Club. This cross was made under the supervision of Miss E.M. Evans, a distinguished breeder of the Pekingese, who grew to love the Shih Tzu and felt a conviction that this step was necessary for the betterment of the breed in England. In defense of her action, she explained that the Shih Tzu in her homeland of England were "too large, too high on leg, too long of muzzle with very bad pigmentation and too closely inbred." Miss Evans bred a Shih Tzu bitch, Elfann Fenling of Yram, to a beautifully coated black and white Pekingese, Philadephus Suti T'Sun of Elfann, who had perfect pigment and large dark eyes. His only fault was straight legs. The offspring of this outcross were bred back to purebred Shih Tzu, one from each generation, and the successive breedings were fully recorded with the British Kennel Club in the crossbred register. This outcross proved to be quite successful in correcting the pigmentation and creating the shorter leg Shih Tzu. During this time period the Shih Tzu were mostly terribly big, near 18 pounds in weight. The smallest one found by Mrs. Jungefeldt was black and white named Fu-Ling of Clystvale. He was low on legs, strong chest and weighed about 9 ½ pounds, and probably the smallest Shih Tzu in England at the time.

Dog Training Schools – Foolproof Choices

Okay the time has come. The puppy you have cherished for the past few months is ready to go to school. Where do you send him/her? Which establishment can be trusted? You want a school sensitive to your puppy’s needs as he/she begins the long and arduous task of learning to interpret you English commands and hand signals. However you also want a school that will respect your needs as the owner. Does such a place exist? What dog training school is right for you?

How do you make the decision? What research do you do? Well to start of the internet is of course always a great resource. The American Kennel Club is very well respected and has a list of good dog training schools in most states. Of course I am sure you also have friends with dogs that can give recommendations, but of course you wonder, will what was right for them be right for you and your precious little bundle of fur?

Of course there are also other things to take into account. What do you want the school to teach? Do you just want and obedience school or do you want one that teaches tracking, herding, retrieving? What is most important to you? How much of a star do you want your little guy to be?

From the many dog training school to pick from I am sure there is one that will fit your needs, as there is probably one for just about everything you could imagine out there. It will just take some long deliberation to decide what is best for both you and your puppy.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

NOT available to public

Pet Rabbit Teeth

Ideally, the top front teeth of a rabbit will lap over the front bottom teeth. Since rabbit teeth grow, this positioning allows natural wearing to occur as the rabbit eats his food and hay. Occasionally, the front teeth will butt. If the teeth are wearing normally (you don't see any really long teeth), I would judge those teeth acceptable for a pet rabbit. Butting teeth is a showing disqualification, so if you are willing to accept a rabbit with non-problematic butting teeth, you may be able to adopt a gorgeous [otherwise] show-quality rabbit. Sometimes the teeth will butt or overlap the wrong way and not wear normally. In this case, the teeth can be clipped. It only takes a few seconds and is easy to learn how to do; your vet or a breeder can teach you. My vet charges less to clip a rabbit's teeth than to clip a dog's nails. The frequency of the clipping would vary with the severity of the malocclusion. If the teeth need clipping but are not clipped, the rabbit could lose his ability to eat and literally starve to death. Wolf teeth are misaligned teeth that grow in all types of directions. Simple clipping may not be enough to all rabbits with this sort of teeth problem to live a normal life. In many cases, rabbits with severe teeth problems may require euthanasia. Checking the teeth is only one part of the pre-purchase evaluation you should perform before you decide to purchase a pet rabbit. Visit Precious Pet Rabbits (http://www.pet-rabbit-care-information.com/) for more information on buying pet rabbits.

Dog Training Treats – Spoiling That Cute Pooch!

Do you ever wonder how much a dog can really taste? Does it really matter whether you get him the beef liver treats or the turkey liver treats? Isn’t it all just the same in the end anyway? How much can the dog really tell the difference?

Anyone who has a dog knows they will eat just about everything, save the occasional vegetable. I am sure most of you either have or know at least one dog that sits at your feet when you eat. He/she either stares with that adorable slightly pathetic face, hoping you take pity on them and give them a bite, or the more tenacious ones whimper, yelp, and beg. It doesn’t seem to matter what you are eating, the ferocious desire for some of the food is the same. Why should the dog training treats be any different?

I understand some dogs have allergies, some have certain diet requirements for their health, and in those cases it is important which treats you buy the dog, however in the mass number of cases I am sure it doesn’t really matter in the end.

There are however, those people that will insist on only the best for their dog and spend tons of money on the best dog training treats money can buy, the whole time going on and on about how Foofoo doesn’t like the turkey and how she only eats the veal treats-which are probably made out of actual veal. I don’t know about you but this strikes me as being slightly ridiculous.

Treats come in very handing when training dogs and I am sure are a valuable resource, however I am convinced one treat probably works just as well as the next. And maybe Foofoo really does prefer the veal, but the question remains as to why Foofoo was even given the veal in the first place. Dogs may decide they like one treat better than the next but making that decision requires options. I am pretty sure that if simply presented with a treat most dogs would not decline.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Melissa Wayan makes it fun to care for your precious pooch. Read more about dog training help and dog training treats.

Training Your Dog To Sit

Training your dog to sit on command is a good place for you and your dog to start your obedience training. It's a nice easy command which your puppy or dog will master very quickly. This will increase your dogs confidence and provide a foundation on which to build more advanced skills and commands.

Another benefit of training your dog to sit is that it gives you a good alternate behavior to request of your dog. If your lovely dog likes to greet visitors to your home by jumping up all over them, or charges out the front door every time it opens, you can gain control of him by applying your "sit" command.

YOu can start with this obedience command as soon as you bring your new puppy home, or any time after that. Before you start training your dog to sit (or any other obedience command) ensure that your dog is confident and comfortable around you - lets you touch him, gives you his attention etc.

General Rules To Remember When Training Your Puppy To Sit

• Keep your training sessions short, ten minutes is plenty to begin with.

• Any time is a good time to practice really, you don't have to structure all your lessons. Incorporate the training into your daily routine. Get your dog to sit before you feed him or make him sit before you throw his ball at the park. When applied in this manner obedience training will be fun in your dogs mind, and rewarding.

• Make it perfectly clear to your dog what you are asking of him - what you want him to do.

• Make training your dog to sit fun, don't make it feel like a chore, for you or your dog.

• Training sessions should be full of consistent repetition, praise and positive reinforcement.

• Don't expect your dog to immediately learn this, or any other obedience command and then never forget it. It's up to you to reinforce the meaning of your command through repetition and consistency throughout your dogs life.

• Gradually faze out the food rewards you may use in the learning period of a new command. Giving a food treat or reward every now and then doesn't hurt your dog though, even if he respects your commands without one.

• When training your dog to sit for the first time, make it easy for him/her to succeed. Start your training sessions in a familiar environment to your dog, free from other distractions. Master the command in this setting, then slowly make it harder for your dog. Add other variables, throw a challenge out to your dog such as taking the training session to the park or increase the duration of the sit.

Training Your Dog To Sit - My Favorite Techniques

I have three techniques I like to use when teaching my puppies or dogs to sit. I've had a 100% success rate with these techniques and I'm sure you will too. Pick out the one that best suits you and your dog, and you'll be well on your way to having a well trained dog.

Technique 1

This first training technique is great for young puppies. When you are with your pup and you see him about to sit or in the act of sitting, say "sit" in a clear and firm tone. As soon as your dog's rear end hits the floor, give him praise and maybe a bit of a scratch behind the ear. In your dogs mind you are building an association between your verbal "sit" command and the act of him sitting. Most puppies make this connection very quickly. Before long you will be able to say "sit" at any time, and your puppy will understand what you are asking of him. Remember to always reward and praise your pup as soon as his behind hits the floor. Your pup will love it, he'll be thinking "all I have to do is sit down and I get attention, treats and praise."

Technique 2 - Off Leash

For older puppies and dogs this training technique works every time. With your dog standing right in front of you, grab a small tasty treat in your hand. Guide the treat from his nose level up over his head, the treat should be a few centimeters away from your dog at all times. Your inquisitive dog will follow the treat up with his nose and at the same time his rear end will hit the ground. As soon as his behind hits the ground give him the treat and lavish him with praise. If your dog backs away or jumps up at the treat you are taking your hand too far back over his head, or holding it too far away from his nose. Repeat this step until your dog gets it, then you can introduce the verbal part of the command. Just before you begin to move your hand (the one with the treat in it) say "sit". Your dog will soon respond to your verbal "sit" command without you even moving your hand. Remember to practice/reinforce this command at any time throughout the day, in any situation.

Technique 3 - On Leash

If your dog doesn't respond to the methods outlined above, or if you prefer to use a collar and leash in your training, this technique will do the trick. Stand next to your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the leash straight up, directly above the collar. At the same time gently press down on your dogs back (down near his hips) and say "sit". As soon as your dog is in the sitting position, reward and praise him. Within no time you won't need to press down on your dogs back or even hold the leash up. He will understand that your "sit" command means that you require him to plant his backside on the ground. And he'll be happy to do it for you because he knows that he receives praise and attention when he does.

I hope these techniques prove successful for you and your dog, I'm confident they will. It's a good idea if you live with other people to teach these commands to them as well. They can then apply the exact same commands to your dog - your dog will appreciate this consistency.

Chris Smith is a dedicated dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com
Discover how to train your dog at home - the right way.

Dog Lover Habits – A Quick Test To Determine Your Crazy Quotient

Do you find yourself among that rare breed of dog lover that your friends think have gone just too far in your love for your dogs? Read on and see if any of these dog lover traits sound all too familiar.

You circle the parking lot over and over trying to find that perfect spot for your pooch. You know the one I mean â€" not too close to the construction or traffic, in lots of shade on a warm day, and by all means in plain view of the door so that he or she can see all the comings and goings. We wouldn’t want our dogs to be too bored or lonely while we’re in the market, gym or post office.

Even if it’s threatening rain, we take our dogs along, thinking we can always wipe out the soggy car later. It’s more important that our dogs get a chance to get out and about, even if it means open car windows on a rainy day.

We fluff up their bed just one more time, to make sure they’re comfy cozy during the night-time hours. And of course, if they should deem our bed more to their liking at 4:00 a.m., we’re happy to oblige with a scoot to the edge, braving cold toes or worse yet, a dangerous fall-off to the floor below.

If they ask to be in the bathroom with us during our morning shower, we’ll leave the door ajar should they feel an urgent need to leave, even if it means less privacy and a strikingly cold draft.

We plan our dinner outings around their eating habits, begging them to chow down early so that we can sit in comfort at a restaurant awaiting our entré, awash in the peaceful fog of knowing they’re safe at home with full tummies.

We wouldn’t dream of keeping the TV too loud, the house too warm, or running low on dog cookies, treats and toys.

We announce our comings and goings explaining when we’ll be back, how long we’ll be gone and what we’ll bring them when we return.

All in all, we know what life would be like without our dogs, and we shudder to think of the possibility. Are you a member of this rare breed of dog lover? If you are, then join the ranks with the best of the best â€" we can’t all be crazy, can we?

© Connie Bowen

Note: this article may be re-published freely as long as the following resource box is included at the end of the article and as long as you link to the URL mentioned in the resource box:

Pet Portrait Artist, and Professional Illustrator Connie Bowen creates stunning pet portrait paintings on canvas from photos. Specializing in capturing the spiritual nature of dogs, cats, horses and other animals in a realistic fashion with impressionistic backgrounds as seen on Oregon Public Broadcasting’s TV show, Art Beat. Over 200 pet portraits completed and counting!

Visit http://www.conniebowen.com to view exquisite samples.

Scottish Terrier Rescue - For the Love of Scotties

Purebred dogs of all breeds can be found in shelters, and volunteers can be found in every state to seek them out. Scottish Terriers, West Highland White Terriers, and even breeds considered rare, all pass through shelters every year. Those who perform Scottish Terrier rescue are committed to matching homeless terriers with loving new owners.

Dog owners give up their pets for a variety of reasons, and many of them have nothing to do with the animal's temperament or behavior. Perfectly loving, well-behaved Scottish Terriers are rescued every year because their owners have died, moved into retirement homes, or are suffering from ill health. Other dogs find their way into shelters because of allergies, divorce, or new babies.

Scottish Terrier rescue organizations do find strays, dogs with behavioral problems, and dogs who have not been housebroken. A dog that has lost its owner, for whatever reason, will probably grieve, so it is crucial that adopted terriers be matched with the very best new owner. Rescuers will want to determine that the home the terrier is destined for is loving, secure, and committed to keeping the dog permanently.

If you wish to perform your own Scottish Terrier rescue, a good place to start is the breed's national and local clubs. The Scottish Terrier Club of America has its own National Rescue Coordinators, and keeps lists of participating organizations, state by state. There are also general purebred dog rescue organizations that handle all breeds, but have representatives that specialize in individual ones, like Scottish Terriers or Westies.

These are usually found in major metropolitan areas around the country. Your local Humane Society can often refer you to purebred dog rescue groups, as can their national organization, The Humane Society of the United States. Try looking in your local paper for dog rescue groups, or on the internet.

When you find your Scottish Terrier rescue organization, expect to go through an application process before you can get a dog. There may be adoption fees for your terrier, and most organizations will expect you to immediately spay or neuter the dog if it has not already been. Some breed representatives have waiting lists, but if you are patient, there should be a Scottish Terrier for you to rescue.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

Good health and happiness

Jeff Cuckson
webmaster@madaboutwesties.com
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Commercial Pet Food for Your Dog?

What you feed your dog is really SO important for your dog's ultimate health, susceptibility to illness, and longevity.

You know, if you really want your dog to be as healthy as s/he can be, you should stop feeding ANY of the widely available commercial dog foods.

I'm talking here about the types of dog food commonly found in supermarkets, and even about most of the supposedly superior brands sold in some supermarkets, pet food shops, and even by many vets.

The cheaper the brand, then generally the more full of garbage it is, but even many of the more expensive brands leave much to be desired.

What do you think is an ideal diet for your dog?

- plump chickens?

- choice cuts of juicy beef and lamb?

- maybe a few healthy fresh grains for variety?

- the odd fresh herbs, vegetables and fruit?

You'd be right.

But how many of the above ingredients do you think go into commercial pet food?

A lot? Only a little? If you said yes to either of these, you'd be dead wrong.

The average commercial dog food bears NO relation to the above list of choice ingredients, despite what pet food manufacturers display in some of their marketing, and despite what the list of ingredients on the pack or can might tend to indicate.

There is very, very little (if any) of the above ingredients in the average commercial dog food, and by the time it's been overcooked at sustained high temperatures, and sprayed with preservative agents, the resultant "food" can be very harmful to your dog's health and wellbeing indeed.

Suffice to say that if you're feeding your dog ANY commercially available dog food, you're exposing your dog to a source of chemically enhanced, overprocessed, garbage, the meat source for which includes diseased carcasses which have been left for up to 5 days before being processed.

Enough to turn you off for life? It was for me. As you know, I've always fed my dogs a diet of mainly raw meat and bones. But I like to give them a little treat in the mornings rather than just feed them once a day (which, by the way, IS all a dog NEEDS). I used to give them a handful of dry dog food each morning, sometimes the cheaper supermarket brands, and sometimes the "brand" names which cost 4 or 5 times as much. Now that I know better, I never give my dogs any of that garbage.

I should say that SOME of the expensive pet foods which are readily available ARE better than the cheaper brands. BUT, most are still far from an ideal diet for your dog, so query whether the extra money is money well spent.

If the product says it's "with real chicken", did you know that it only needs to contain 3% of chicken? Neither did I.

If the first item listed is meat or chicken, did you know that this doesn't mean that's the main ingredient? Neither did I.

Take a close look at the label. It's likely to list a meat first, and then 2, 3, 4 or 5 types of grains. This is a very misleading tactic used by the commercial pet food manufacturers. Each of the grains individually may be slightly less in quantity than the meat. But added together? They're probably nearly 2, 3, 4 or 5 times the quantity of the meat ingredient.

After having looked into this issue in a great deal of detail, I'm convinced that the most healthy diet for your dog is mainly fresh meat, with some fresh veges and a little grain thrown in. And this alone is NOT enough. You need to give your dog a vitamin supplement always, for optimal health.

And for the very best health, there ARE some reputable HEALTHY, wholesome, holistic dog food manufacturers, which really DO provide wonderfully healthy food for our dogs.

If you're game to read the whole shocking report published by the U.S. Animal Protection Institute, about what's really in commercial pet food, it's posted at: www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/APIArticle

And for details of the best dog food manufacturers, see all the details here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/DogFood

(c) 2005, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in holistic dog health. Her site, Healthy Happy Dogs, has pages and pages of information on improving your dog's health naturally. Brigitte is the author of several reports, articles, and the Healthy Happy Dogs newsletter.

For your special FREE report - "How to Improve Your Dog's Health Within 30 Days - Maybe Even Lengthen Your Dog's Life!", Click Here for Your Free Dog Health Report! http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com

Dog Training Collars and Harnesses - Making the Proper Selection is Essential to Training Success

Dog training is an art, and like any artist you must pick your tools carefully in order to properly train your dog. Each dog is different, and thus you must be able to decide which collar is most appropriate for your dog based on its temperament, personality, and strength. Below, you will find a description of all the major varieties of dog training collars that you might come across when deciding to purchase one for you pooch.

The metal choke collar is perhaps the most popular and widely used collar in the dog training world. It should be used in training larger, stronger dogs that tend to take YOU for a walk.

The metal toggle choke collar is basically the same as you regular choke collar with the major difference being that you can correct you dog easily by using the toggle while your dog is off-leash.

The pinch collar should be used RARELY and only in situations where the choke collar is ineffective in controlling your dog (i.e. in situations where your dog is very strong, where its highly aggressive, and when it repeatedly lunges at other dogs and people).

The fur saver choke collar is designed to control the dog without leaving chain marks around the dogs' neck or getting fur caught in the chain which sometimes occurs when using an ordinary metal choke collar. It is mainly used when showing dogs and NOT in training them because the dogs don't tend to respond to them in training and they don't give the quick jerk needed for proper correction.

The nylon choke collar is best used in small dogs and puppies up to 3 months, because they tend to be more gentle and they tend to get young puppies used to wearing a collar.

The gentle head leader is best used on dogs that are more shy and easily corrected (i.e. dogs that respond quickly to your commands and dogs that tend to cringe upon your correction).

The electronic collar is mainly used for two reasons: first its used on field dogs (i.e. in bird hunting) and second it is used as a means of training the "out" command to a protection dog in its bite training phase.

The tracking harness is used for exactly what its name suggests: for tracking game, suspects, lost individuals, or competition articles.

And finally, the seeing eye dog harness is designed so that the dogs' owner can hang on to the lead while the dog guides her to her destination. Unlike other leads, this lead is designed so that the dog can pull its owner forward as it walks instead of gently walking beside her on loose lead.

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice, information, and articles regarding many aspects of professional dog training for all those who are not professional dog trainers themselves. For more articles like this one, visit his website at http://www.newdogtrainingsecrets.com

Shih Tzu - Training Your Shih Tzu To Not Pull On The Leash

Pulling on the leash is one of the most common misbehaviors seen on all kinds of dogs. Shih tzu puppies and adult shih tzu alike can often be seen taking their owners for walks, instead of the other way around. Pulling on the leash can be much more than an annoying habit. Leash pulling can lead to escape in the case of a break in the collar or leash, and an out of control, off leash shih tzu can be both destructive and dangerous to itself and to others. Leash pulling can result from a variety of different things. In some cases, the shih tzu may simply be so excited to go for a walk that he or she is unable to control themselves. In other cases, the shih tzu sees itself as the leader of the pack, and he or she simply takes the "leadership position" at the front of the pack. If excitement is the motivation for leash pulling, simply giving the shih tzu a few minutes to calm down can often be a big help. Simply stand with the shih tzu on the leash for a couple minutes and let the initial excitement of the upcoming walk pass. After the initial excitement ahs worn off, many shih tzu are willing to walk calmly on their leash. If the problem is one of control, however, some retraining may be in order. All shih tzu training starts with the owner establishing him or herself as the alpha dog, or pack leader, and without this basic respect and understanding, no effective training can occur. For shih tzu exhibiting these type of control issues, a step back to basic obedience commands is in order. These shih tzu can often be helped through a formal obedience school structure. The dog trainer will of course be sure to train the handler as well as the shih tzu, and any good dog trainer will insist on working with the shih tzu owner as well as the shih tzu. The basis of teaching the shih tzu to walk calmly on the lead is teaching it to calmly accept the collar and lead. A shih tzu that is bouncing up and down while the collar is being put on will not walk properly. Begin by asking your shih tzu to sit down, and insisting that he sit still while the collar is put on. If the shih tzu begins to get up, or gets up on his own after the collar is on, be sure to sit him back down immediately. Only begin the walk after the shih tzu has sat calmly to have the collar put on, and continued to sit calmly as the leash is attached. Once the leash is attached, it is important to make the shih tzu walk calmly toward the door. If the shih tzu jumps or surges ahead, gently correct him with a tug of the leash and return him to a sitting position. Make the shih tzu stay, then move on again. Repeat this process until the shih tzu is walking calmly by your side. Repeat the above process when you reach the door. The shih tzu should not be allowed to surge out of the door, or to pull you through the open door. If the shih tzu begins this behavior, return the shih tzu to the house and make him sit quietly until he can be trusted to walk through the door properly. Starting the walk in control is vital to creating a well mannered shih tzu. As you begin your walk, it is vital to keep the attention of the shih tzu focused on you at all times. Remember, the shih tzu should look to you for guidance, not take the lead himself. When walking, it is important to stop often. Every time you stop, your shih tzu should stop. Getting into the habit of asking your shih tzu to sit down every time you stop is a good way to keep your shih tzu's attention focused on you. Make sure your shih tzu is looking at you, then move off again. If the shih tzu begins to surge ahead, immediately stop and ask the shih tzu to sit. Repeat this process until the shih tzu is reliability staying at your side. Each time the shih tzu does what you ask him to, be sure to reward him with a treat, a toy or just your praise. Remember that if your shih tzu pulls on the leash and you continue to walk him anyway, you are inadvertently rewarding that unwanted behavior. Shih Tzu learn whether you are teaching them or not, and learning the wrong things now will make learning the right things later that much harder. It is important to be consistent in your expectations. Every time the shih tzu begins to pull ahead, immediately stop and make the shih tzu sit. Continue to have the shih tzu sit quietly until his focus is solely on you. Then start out again, making sure to immediately stop moving if the shih tzu surges ahead.