Dog Training: Overcome The Misbehavior Of Your Dog While You're Away

Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training. Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner's property, excessive barking, self destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation. Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away. Well meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the dog, but it is important for the well being of both dog and owner that the dog learn to deal with extended periods of separation. How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the dog feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves. These long types of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated dogs often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture. Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same. If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your dog more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem. If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety. In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the dog to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day. It is important, for instance, to give the dog plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away. This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys. A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well. Giving the dog a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone. Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the pet is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety. Playing with the dog, and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise, is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious dog. A happy dog that has been well exercised and well conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day. It is important to give the dog a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave. For dogs that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get him accustomed to your leaving gradually. Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day. Doing so will get your dog accustomed to your departures and help him realize that you are not leaving him forever. Dogs that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety. Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that your leaving is not permanent.

RecoveryPets.Com Helps Recover Lost Pets

Making our lives better includes protecting our families, and also included in this category is the family pet. This once wild animal has become an integral part of the modern family, and there are many laws devoted to stopping abuses to pets. What is lacking in the modern family is proving a means to recover the family pet, if they should ever become lost. Ensuring that a lost pet will be returned to its owners should be a number one priority, because the loss of a family pet can be a very devastating time.

Fortunately there are organizations that provide services to increase the chances of recovering a family pet if they should ever become loss. One such company that combines the pet identification tag and the Internet is RecoveryPets.Com, they provide a service that assigns the pet a unique tracking number, and a web page on their site. This page includes a complete pet description, a photograph of the pet, and up to ten contact numbers or email addresses. So if a stranger finds the pet, they can quickly identify the owner by entering the unique tracking number on the website and the contact information will be displayed.

The process involved is very simple, once the pet has been registered for the service the registrant will receive a metal pet tag that contains the unique identification number, and the RecoveryPets.Com website address. If the pet should ever become loss the finder logs onto the website, and enters the unique identification number into a form field, and the pet owners information will be displayed.

The company is also making efforts to partner with organizations that lost pets are returned to, including the Humane Society, S.P.C.A., and various other pet shelter organizations. The goal is to provide a one-stop location for these organizations to go to when they have a lost pet with the RecoveryPets.Com identification tag on the collar. If you are a pet owner and would like to get more information on the services provided by RecoveryPets.Com, or would like to register your pet for their service, you can visit their website at: http://www.recoverypets.com

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com and they specialize in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number. For more information visit http://www.recoverypets.com

Ferret Training Tips

1. Litter box training

Ferrets are not drawn to use their litter-boxes like cats, so patience and treats work best to insure a potty trained fuzzy in your home. Here's how to do it:

1. Begin by training in a smaller space, such as your ferrets cage.

2. As with kittens, look for signs that your ferret is ready to go (such as spinning or backing into a corner) then placing them in the litter pan.

3. After each successful potty session, reward them with a treat immdediately.

4. When you feel comfortable that your ferret has the proper manners, begin placing litter-boxes throughout the areas (outside of the cage) they are allowed.

5. If you are still having accidents, especially in a cage, try placing food or ferret bedding in the offending area. If this area smells more like their kitchen or bedroom, your ferret will be less likely to continue the unwanted relief in that area.

6. Remember, even a potty-trained ferret can make mistakes. Be sure to clean these areas thoroughly, removing any scent with a cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle for Ferrets which will remove any ferret scent, keeping these areas free of the potty smell which could lead to further accidents.

2. Nip-training Most new (generally younger) ferrets will nip people, including you. It is important to know, that in most cases your ferret is not purposely trying to hurt you. A ferret’s skin is extremely tough and you’ll notice if you have more than one ferret that they play rough with each other. Should your ferret nip new or old you’ll have to begin nip-training immediately. Anyone who tells you to nip-train your ferret by flicking his nose or by giving him a light smack is grossly mistaken.

Instead, use these methods accordingly:

• Spray them with a water bottle

• Blow lightly on their face

• Make a loud, high-pitched "YIP!" sound (mimicking a ferrets own pain sound)

• Cover their face

• Use bitter apple spray on your hands or other prone areas

• Give them a “time-out” in their cage It is important to be patient when training. Also, be sure to never place your ferret down if you are nipped. This will only help the ferret associate biting with freedom, which could lead to more problems down the road.

3. Dig-training

Ferrets love to dig. You can try using the methods listed under nip-training. Below, we have listed a few more tips for problems you may encounter.

1. Digging in the couch or bed. Couches or beds can be havens for your ferret. Unfortunately, many problems can occur due to digging in these items. Try placing a solid bottom on your couch or box spring so that your ferret cannot get into their inner workings. You could try removing the legs of your couch to further discourage this behavior. Remember, sometimes it’s best to have a safe and happy ferret, so limiting their access to areas with these potential problems/hazards in general may be necessary if the problem persists.

2. Digging in food or water. Should your ferret love to splash about his water, food or both, try using water bottles which limit the amount of water that your ferret has access to at one time. The same principal can be applied to their food. A ferret is less likely to throw about their only meal, so try limiting the amount of food in bowls should your fuzzy show an interest in food digging.

3. Digging in the litter. Litter digging can more than just distasteful. Some ferrets have been known to eat litter. Doing so may causes harmful blockages. If you discover your ferret does this, try changing only a little bit of your ferrets litter, leaving some dirty litter behind. Ferrets are less likely to dig in dirty litter.

4. Digging in your plants. Most importantly, many household plants are toxic to ferrets. If you are going to keep plants in your home, it’s best to keep them in rooms that are off limits to ferrets. If this is unavoidable, we recommend using bitter apple to treat the area surrounding each plant (pot, soil, table it is on, etc.). However, being the rascals they are, ferrets may soon figure out what areas of the plant can still be dug or chewed on because you cannot treat the whole thing, which is why we recommend keeping ferrets away from plants as a rule.

Remember, patience and persistence will be the most effective tools when training your ferret. Digging, as well as some other behaviors may be the result of boredom. Try changing your ferret’s surroundings (cage) often, as well as playing with them. Also, don’t leave your ferrets alone to wreak havoc, then return to scold them when left unsupervised. Ferrets are inquisitive, wonderful creatures. Be sure to reward this trait with plenty of games, toys, and of course; love…

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com

The Ibizan Hound: A Unique Hunter of Antiquity

The Ibizan Hound is believed to have originated on the Spanish island of Ibiza and is known to have existed as early as 3400 B.C., when it was used as one of the hunting hounds of the Egyptian Pharaohs. The antiquity of this breed is well established, having been found in varying forms in many of the archeological discoveries from ancient Egypt. A statuette of an Ibizan Hound referred to in ancient writing as Anubis, " the watchdog of death" was discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamen. It actually differs very little from the modern Ibizan one sees today The resemblance between the Pharaoh Hound and the Ibizan is very close. In reality both dogs probably stem from the same origins, however there are slight differences between the two breeds in the A.K.C. standards of the modern world. The Ibizan of today is heavier and stockier than the Pharaoh Hound.

The Ibizan Hound is classified as a "sight hound" but it is interesting to note that the Ibizan, unlike other "sight hounds" is believed to also hunt by scent and by sound. They are silent hunters, able to scent, flush and course the prey. They were quite popular with the hunters in Europe in the middle ages. It is believed that the breed flourished in Europe after having been brought on the backs of Hannibals' elephants in his invasion of Italy. At one time, the breed was banned in France because it had been extensively used by poachers, who favored it because of its ability to hunt and course and bring down the prey silently.

The Ibizan may appear to be a beautiful and elegant dog meant to lie about and look pretty but his character is far from being just an elegant companion dog. The Ibizan is a hunting machine, if you were to use modern terminology. He is agile and able to jump to great heights without a take off. He is relentless in his pursuit of prey. He is tireless and methodical. When he loses sight, sound, or scent of the prey, he has been known to stand on his hind legs and get a better look. The dog also retrieves to hand. The hunting abilities and super intelligence of the breed have survived unchanged since ancient times and it remains a truly instinctive hunting animal even today.

The Ibizan Hound does not have a large "following" in the show rings of the United States. It was first registered in 1956. It is a relatively tall dog that has the appearance of elegance, with upright large ears that give it a look of eternal surprise. The colors may be white or any shade of red or chestnut or any combination of these colors. The Ibizan can be either the short coated or the wire coated, however the wire coated Ibizan is not common.

This is not a dog for everyone. Its high degree of activity and instinctive desire to hunt requires that he be confined or closely supervised when outside. This is a breed that is an independent thinker and can be a challenge for a novice dog person. However he enjoys being with people and generally is even tempered and quiet, being a considerate companion in the house. Because this is a dog that will not tolerate cold temperatures, he needs to be kept inside and will not do well as a kennel dog unless it is an indoor facility . He makes a gentle and quiet companion but does require daily exercise.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

The National Geographic Birdfeeders Offer Great Variety To The Backyard Bird Watcher

The nice thing about National Geographic birdfeeders is that you can be assured that they come with great provenance. Sure, you can walk into any local pet store and find bird feeders of all sorts. But do they work well--have they been vetted--that is the question. With National Geographic birdfeeders the variety is wonderful and the workmanship well worth the shipping cost, which one must consider when ordering off the internet. For instance, you can find feeders with a sturdy wire cage around them so that little birds can hide inside and not be bothered by larger, shall we say obnoxious, visitors?! The website http://shop.nationalgeogr aphic.com also has a variety of other National Geographic birdfeeders for those who are concerned about needing weatherproof or squirrelproof feeders. There is no need to have your precious seeds go moldy. You don't go to the trouble and expense of buying quality seed just to have rain get in and start sprouting seeds! It's not a seed sprouter you're interested in -- it's supposed to be a dry seed feeder! And as for our four-legged squirrel 'friends', yes, they were created with the same inalienable rights as birds by the Creator. The proviso is: NIMBY! You can even find squirrel feeders on the website, but even better, you can find National Geographic birdfeeders that are squirrel PROOF. If you've fed birds for any length of time, you know how much a squirrel loves sunflower oil seed. After all, they are smart critters. But we are not interested in feeding squirrels high quality seed. We might provide some corn and make them do tricks for it for our entertainment, but not for sunflower seeds! There is a fine squirrel-proof example among the National Geographic birdfeeders on the site. Also offered among the National Geographic birdfeeders is a unique hummingbird feeder mobile! It has three glass balls that can be filled with red sugar water. The balls turn around each other in the wind and with the attentions of the hummingbirds. Give it a look. It's a delicate and enchanting piece of sculpture in motion.

Tips On Breeding Snakes

When you've had some success caring for captive snakes, you might find yourself interested in breeding them. This can be done, but it requires record keeping and attention to many details concerning the living conditions of the snakes. The breeding is generally done in the winter so that the babies are born or hatched in the spring.

Breeding snakes requires feeding them well for about four months, and then putting them into a cool state of hibernation. To do this, you first need to fatten them up, especially females, for a few months in late summer, then lower the temperature for a few more weeks or months. The exact timing varies with the species, as do the temperature requirements.

Just a quick note about determining the sex of a snake. This skill needs to be learned from an expert. It is a tricky process, sometimes requiring the use of a metal probe to look for the male reproductive organ. Even the most experienced of snake breeders make a mistake now and then.

During the hibernation, the snake is not fed, but is provided fresh water. When the time is up, the snake is gradually warmed up, and fed well again for a little while. Then the female and male are placed together. If she resists him, separate them and wait another week. If not, leave them together for a week or so.

A female snake that is developing eggs within is called "gravid." Some species of snake eat well during this time and others don't. The length of time it takes varies even within the same species. Again, the amount of heat provided makes a difference. Most females will shed shortly before laying their eggs.

Some snakes give birth to live offspring instead of laying eggs. The boas are examples of this. The hibernation requirements for these tropical snakes are much less, amounting to just a couple of weeks with low nighttime temperatures. Their humidity needs are higher, and they should be misted daily. With boas, you can add more than one male to the female's enclosure.

Pregnancy takes from 4 to 10 months. The mother to be usually eats well during this time, but you should choose smaller food items, since her inside body space is getting more crowded. Shedding usually precedes giving birth, but it can be as much as another month before the birth. The litter size can range from 10 to as many as 80 for large, robust females.

In general, snake babies should be removed and placed in separate containers lined with paper towels. The paper towels should be kept moist for the first two weeks. They will shed around this time, and can feed on pinkies or fuzzies (young mice) after the shed.

There may be a market for these young reptiles, and the process is certainly fascinating for the hobbyist. Do remember, though, that there are growing numbers of pet snakes being shoved off into rescue shelters because the owners just can't handle them any more. Be a responsible snake breeder, and make sure your young snakes won't just be more casualties.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Gary Ruplinger is the owner of Boatips.com, a site providing information about pet snakes. To learn more about breeding snakes and to learn about pet snakes in general, visit us.

Tips on Easy House Breaking Your Puppy

If you are lucky enough to get a 7-week-old puppy, there is no excuse for any bad habits to develop over his lifetime. Puppies learn INSTANTLY when they are that young, and if you use the proper training methods, gentle but consistent, he will behave like an angel his whole life through.

The most important training, of course, is housebreaking. Boys are easier than girls because exploring outside is their favorite thing. They just cannot get enough of all the new smells out there!

The main key to housebreaking is watching. Watch your puppy AND the clock. Once every hour is not too often on a day he is active and the weather is good. The younger the pup, the more often he needs to go out, mostly because he is growing so fast. He must drink more water to fuel his metabolism than he does as an adult. Also, since he eats three or four times a day, you know what that means.

Watch him for subtle changes. If he is happily chewing his toy, and gets up suddenly with his nose to the floor, move quickly! He is ready to squat! If he has had a nice nap, get him out of his crate and outside right away. If he has just had a good grooming, it stimulates his circulation and guess what? Time to go out again. And of course after a meal, watch him extra close.

Things to remember:

---Do not punish him for mistakes. They are YOUR fault. Every time you take him out he will go, and praise praise and praise! Happy face, laughter, happy noises! He loves your happy face. When he makes a mistake, your frown and your face turned away from him is all the punishment he needs. He will get the point.

---He is learning English, you must use the same phrases over and over. "Good go potty!" "Hafta go potty?" "Wanna go potty?" He can learn in one afternoon that "go potty" means a jaunt outside and your happy face. Whatever phrase you choose, stick with it.

---I cannot recommend strongly enough getting a crate. They truly help with all phases of his training. They make him more secure, provide him with his very own private space and a place for him to hide his favorite toys and chewies. This is even more important if you have other adult dogs in the house.

---Be consistent, always be kind and gentle, and be patient as he learns your language, and your puppy will always look forward to his training sessions. Dogs love to work!

D. Witt has shown, bred and trained standard poodles for 25 years. Vets and groomers of her pups send word back of how wonderfully happy and easy to handle they are. Gentle and consistent techniques produce a dog that is well-adjusted, happy and obedient his whole life through. For more on her training techniques, visit http://www.DogTraining15MinsADay.com

Dog Clothes

Dog cloths go a long way in protecting your dog from cuts, scratches and bad weather. The main function should be to keep a dog dry and warm. The history of clothing for animal’s dates back to the period of King Arthur. At that time, clothes were used to protect the knights’ horses from external elements and attacks.

Dog clothes were primarily used in the military and law enforcement areas, in order to safeguard dogs from both the surrounding environment and attacks. Today, dogs also serve as narcotic sniffers in police departments. But a dog’s main role is to be a pet to an individual or a family. For these reasons, dog apparel has changed with the time.

Dog Clothes include all kinds of outfits that are exclusive to dogs. Body suits, coats, dog dresses, t-shirts, tank tops, sweaters and sweatshirts are just a few items to choose from. Doggie boots, leashes, tags and hair clips are some accessories that compliment a dog’s apparel. Other accessories include bathrobes, beds, boots, carriers, collars, jackets, raincoats and toys. There are outfits specially designed for special occasions and events such as weddings. Halloween and Christmas outfits are some of the more popular occasions that people choose to dress their dogs in Santa outfits or princess gowns.

You will find pet cloths in most pet shops, and they are also available on the Internet. Just do a search for “pet clothing,” and you’ll be given hundreds of sites to select from. Check them out and seek the best deals.

Dog Clothes provides detailed information on Dog Clothes, Small Dog Clothes, Designer Dog Clothes, Dog Clothes Patterns and more. Dog Clothes is affiliated with Small Dog Collars. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marcus_Peterson

Tips For Raising A New Puppy

Josh V Writes: I just wanted to ask you if you could give me a few pointers that I could send on to my family because we just got a 6week old Border collie today (Tuesday) and I'm leaving for Toronto tomorrow morning. She is quite the energetic dog and it seems like my parents haven't really looked too much into detail about how to raise a puppy. I was just wondering if you could send a few pointers my way??

Answer:

Hey Josh. I've just listed random points as there are many to consider:

A. Never let the pup out of your sight. The longer the pup is doing something that you do not want him doing, the harder it will be to put a stop to the behavior.

B. Do not swamp it with toys. If there are always toys lying around, your pup will get bored of them and start looking for something else (furniture) to chew on.

C. You might want to think of buying a crate for the dog. (Night time, quiet time, anytime the dog is sleeping he should sleep in the crate. (After meals, pups will usually want to sleep)

D. When I brought Luther home, something that worked great for me was keeping him on a leash for the first three months. By doing this, you constantly know where your dog is, and you can monitor, his every move, therefore catching unwanted behavior and putting an immediate stop to it.

For house braking:

I am assuming that you have a house and will be therefore wanting to teach your dog to go to the bathroom in the yard:

Instead of plastering the floor with newspaper and rewarding the dog when he goes on the paper, just get whomever is watching him to take him outside every 30 mins. to one hour. (immediately after eating, or drinking.) By rewarding the dog for going to the bathroom on paper, you are confusing him. You are teaching him that it is ok to go on newspaper and as well as outside. For a dog that is a lot of info, just choose the yard method, it'll save you time in the end.

Most important thing of all: Do not punish your dog for something that he does not know is wrong! Bad habit to get into. I know having a pup can be very frustrating at times, remember they do not know what is right and what is wrong, therefore just be patient and attentive.

Praise your dog when he does something worth being praised for, eg. bathroom outside, being quiet in his crate.

If you need to punish your pup one very effective way to do this is:

Place one hand over the muzzle and the other over the back of the neck. This mimics the mother grabbing the pup. Gently exert pressure while uttering "no" in a meaningful voice.

Make sure the pup is exercised a lot! Border Collies are a very energetic dog and need to have some release or they will go crazy! Good luck, give your parents my email, they can email me anytime.

Josh V Writes:

One more question: if she starts biting stuff like the blanket or whatever, how should we discipline her?? Thanks again. See ya.

Answer:

One little trick that you can use is to: scent discriminate between what she can mess with and what she cant. To do this, just put a little dab of vanilla extract on all her toys. Over time with constant supervision, she will learn to deferintiate between what she can mess with and what she can't by the scent. If she bites anything you do not want her to bite, punish her in the same way, immediately using the above method.

http://www.dogsbydunk.com is your one stop destination for premium dog food and premium dog training. From great products, to great resources, dogsbydunk.com is a superior unique alternative that I hope you all take full advantage of!

How To Recognize A Respiratory Tract Ailment In Your Parrot

A respiratory tract ailment can be fatal to your parrot if left untreated. Find out how to recognize if your parrot is having problem with its breathing.

The most obvious indication that your parrot has a problem can be seen in their tail movement. You should barely be able to see the tail of your parrot moving. If the parrot’s tail is moving a lot, is very noticeable, and is labored, this may be a sign that there is a problem with its health.

If your parrot is having a hard time breathing because it has blocked nostrils, this could be a sign that your parrot has a respiratory tract ailment. You should check your parrot’s nostrils for discharge or even blockage.

It may be possible to relieve the blockage with medication. See your Vet for the best medication for your parrot. They will more than likely instruct you to hold your parrot on its back and put a drop of the medicine in each of its nostrils. If there is a lot discharge there, you can bathe the nostrils with warm water in order to remove the worst of the blockage before you start with the medicine.

Long-term cases can be difficult to cure, even when the parrot is treated with antibiotics. The parrots condition may seem to improve, but can worsen again if the parrot becomes stressed at all.

Since a sick parrot can get worse, seek veterinary advice as soon as possible. Describe the symptoms as clearly as possible and give a history of your parrot.

About The Author

Amy Barrett is the creator of the website http://www.parrotspage.com where it’s all about parrots. Find out if you have room in your life for one of these beautiful creatures.

5 Common Grooming Mistakes Made by Dog Owners

1. Clipping the quick when cutting nails.

Don’t be in a hurry to finish his nails even though your dog wants you to finish quickly. Take baby clips using a SHARP nail clipper (my preference is spring style or cat clippers for small dogs).

Don’t use a Dremel or other electronic/motororized tool unless you’ve had some training in using it. It's too easy to overcut.

If your dog has white nails, the quick should look pink. STOP clipping before you get there.

If your dog has dark nails, you should see a black circle in the clipped part of the nail. STOP clipping before you get there.

If you do draw blood, apply pressure and styptic powder. A product called QuikStop can be purchased at most pet stores. If you can’t control the bleeding, get to a veteranian or animal hospital immediately.

2. Getting shampoo in his eyes during baths.

Dogs love to shake their wet heads and it’s easy for shampoo to sting his eyes.

Buy some sterile ophthalmic ointment (at pet store or www.1800PetMeds.com) and dab in each eye before bathing.

If shampoo gets in his eyes, rinse with cool water or saline eyewash. Do NOT put more ointment in his eyes. If his eyes remain red or he’s squinting long after he’s dry, he needs a vet’s attention.

3. Causing electric clipper burn.

It looks like a rash and results from using overheated clipper blades or damaged blades.

Inspect your clippers before each use and replace missing or dull blades and blades with broken teeth.

If your dog is affected, he’ll try to scratch or lick the areas, which only worsens the irritation.

It’s a good idea to keep an Elizabethan collar on hand (or make one) for such problems as they prevent the dog from reaching irritated areas. Keep the area clean and use an antibiotic ointment on the skin until it heals.

4. Unintentionally encouraging allergic reactions.

Allergies seem to be on the rise and some dogs are more sensitive than others. If your dog is very itchy after a bath or his skin is red and irritated, it may be an allergic reaction. Try products with oatmeal or use all natural products. And always rinse thoroughly to prevent residue build-up.

If your dog develops a serious reaction such as hives, diarrhea or pinpoint-sized pupils, he needs immediate medical attention. If he’s just itchy, try different mild products until you find one that he likes.

You can work with a vet to pinpoint allergens but this a time-consuming and expensive process. I’d try various products first.

5. Leaving him unrestrained or unattended.

Dogs, especially those who hate being groomed, can try to make escapes by jumping off a table or off a lap. Serious injuries can result to small dogs.

Never leave a dog unattended. Groom him on the floor or restrain him if he’s on a table or in a sink. Create a barrier around him so he has no place to jumping off spot.

You can have a second person hold the dog while you wash him if you’re using an area too large to fence him in.

Be patient, stay calm and offer lots of praise as you groom and you’ll avoid most problems.

Louise Louis is a long-time dog person and creator of http://www.ToyBreeds.com

Puppy and Kitty Care

It's important to have the right pet supplies and knowledge for proper puppy care and kitty care. Just as a child's body is different from an adult's, a dog's or cat's body is very different when it's young. A young pet has special nutritional, physical and even mental needs, so a responsible owner must have the pet supplies needed before the little one joins the family.

During their first year, the most important pet supply to have on hand is food. It's well known that puppies and kittens burn calories and protein at a much higher rate than adults because of their accelerated growth. The reason why they have this accelerated growth is because it served their ancestors well in the wild. Back then, a young pup or cub would be easy prey, so they had to mature quickly and have offspring of their own to propagate the species. Make sure to buy from a reputable quality pet supply store and get the food that's made specifically for puppies and kittens.

Aside from food, the other pet supplies that are a necessity are dog toys and cat toys. In addition to physical growth, puppies and kittens learn things during their first year that stay with them for life. The first year is crucial in molding a cat's or dog's behavior, so it's important to interact with them. One of the best ways to interact with them is through playtime. Playing is good exercise for them (and you), and it teaches them that humans are friends and companions. Sadly, those pets abused during this time are often scarred for life, and have serious trust issues. Whatever pet toy you get, make sure it's not too small so that they won't swallow it. For puppies, a Kong dog toy is a good investment because it's durable and won't mess up your house. Playing "tug-o-war" with a rope puppy toy is a good way to build their strength and confidence, too. For kittens, try a cat toy with bright colors. It's important to get cat toys that will safely satisfy their natural curiosity.

Since house breaking and litter box training are essential, the proper pet supplies for this need to be on hand from day one. Get a small dog crate and hold your puppy in it overnight and for periods when you can't watch them. They instinctively don't want to go in their own area, so you can use that to your advantage. Take them straight from the dog crate to outside, and they'll eventually get the idea. For cats, be sure to get a quality litter box and give your cat their own space. Cats naturally want to dig when they eliminate, so just keep showing them the litter box after they eat. It might be a good idea to get a small pet crate for your cat as well if you plan on traveling with him or her. An extra safety tip for cat owners is to keep cats away from the dryer machine. Cats like being in cozy, closed off places, and they will jump in the dryer when your not looking, which can lead to disaster. With these pet supplies and the proper care, any puppy or kitten will grow to be a happy and healthy pet.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Little Pampered Babies where you can find Unique Baby Clothes and Toddler Clothing.

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems and How to Solve Them - Part 2

In part one of this 3-part instructional we pointed out that some canine behaviors are ingrained, while others are learned. We also highlighted successful ways to control excessive barking. In part 2 we will deal with effective techniques to stop biting.

Canine Behavior Problems: Biting

According to the U.S. Disease Control Center in Atlanta, Georgia, about 1,000,000 people in the United States are bitten by dogs every year. The majority of victims are children between the ages of 5 and 8; in most cases, the biting dogs were house pets.

Dogs bite for a variety of reasons. Dogs may bite or display threatening behavior when they are angry, afraid, agitated, over-excited, or when challenged or seeking to protect.

The first thing to do when confronted with biting dogs is to discern “why” the dog behaved aggressively. If the dog was being teased or felt threatened, the problem may not be with the dog. Instead, fault may lie with whomever or whatever teased him or made him feel threatened.

Some dogs bite or snap at their caregiver’s hands when the caregiver tries to take something away from them. According to Barbara Woodhouse, internationally known dog trainer, canine behavior expert, and author of Barbara Woodhouse’s Encyclopedia of Dogs & Puppies, the best cure for such aggressive behavior is to “return violence with violence.”

Effective Ways to Stop Biting Dogs

When the dog attempts to bite, the caregiver should act swiftly by suspending the dog off his front legs by his choke chain; at the same time, scold in a violent tone of voice, “No bite!” The dog should be allowed back on his front legs only after he shows signs of discomfort (usually within 10 seconds). Once subdued; caress and praise him.

This process should be repeated every time the dog attempts to bite; he must be forced to respect your authority. While this type correction may sound cruel, it is not. Curing the dog of biting using this means is much kinder than having the dog sentenced to death in the gas chamber because of injuries inflicted on someone he bit.

Inexperienced caregivers may have a difficult time correcting their dog this way; if that is the case, the help of an expert dog trainer should be sought.

Preventing Aggressive Behavior in Dogs that Leads to Biting

Some dogs are so naturally protective of their owner they attack anyone who approaches, without being given a command. This can be quite dangerous. Allowing a dog to lunge toward people could very well lead to other aggressive behaviors, such as biting.

One of the best methods to prevent this type aggressive behavior in dogs is to take the dog among crowds â€" muzzled if necessary. Get people to touch him (muzzled), and give him a sound scolding if he attempts to attack.

Another effective method is to get someone who trains dogs to snatch him from you and really shake him (by his choke chain) when he shows signs of vicious behavior. He must be defeated, and then praised for submitting.

What About Puppies that Bite?

Puppies are notorious for biting and nipping during play. One mistake people often make with puppies that bite is to let them get away with it. Caregivers often think such behavior is cute and believe the puppy will naturally grow out of it without intervention. The reality is that such “innocent” biting and nipping can become a learned bad habit, difficult to break once the puppy is older.

Caregivers should address nipping and biting early on, instead of waiting until the puppy has grown and the problem more difficult to correct. Puppies are not like children; they are growing dogs. And dogs need training and an understanding but firm, consistent hand to teach them what is acceptable and what is not. Correction methods for young puppies that bite are different than methods for grown dogs.

How to Handle Aggressive Behavior in Puppies

When a puppy bites hard enough to hurt he must be corrected firmly. Say “No bite!” in a firm tone. If that doesn't work, use what is called “the shakedown method,” which resembles what the mother dog does to her pup to keep order in the litter. Shake the puppy by catching hold of the loose skin of its neck on both sides under the ears. Repeat “No bite!”

Correcting aggressive behavior in puppies older than 12 weeks is done the following way: grab the puppy by the scruff of the neck with both hands, and lift him off his front feet, if necessary. Make the puppy look you straight in the face, and repeat “No bite!” If you sound angry enough, the puppy will understand.

This correction method must be consistent. If you permit a puppy to bite one time, but get annoyed and correct him the next, the puppy will become confused and will not learn effectively.

Puppies are especially likely to bite or nip children who play with them either for too long a period, or are too rough with them. When a puppy shows signs of being tired of being “mauled” during play, it is time to let the puppy rest. Put the puppy away in his box or pen, and instruct others to leave him alone and let him rest.

Under no circumstances slap a puppy or dog’s nose to discipline him; this is cruel, as well as ineffective. And always give plenty of love and praise for submissive behavior after correction has been administered.

At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. In part 3 of this 3-part instructional we discuss the problem of jumping. Read part 3, “How to Prevent Dogs and Puppies from Jumping up on People” at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com/category/dog-care-articles.com

©2006 Lori S. Anton
Savvy Dog Lover editor

Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.

Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit www.savvy-dog-lovers.com â€" where the best bones are buried!

Attacking the Pit Bull Problem in Los Angeles-MuttShack Animal Rescue Launches Grassroots Campaign

Twenty-six percent of the dogs at the six Los Angeles Animal Services shelters are "Pit Bulls". American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, and Staffordshire Bull are various names used to describe the breed and any mix thereof.

Whatever name they go by, they refer to a breed that has been labeled ounce-for-ounce, the strongest dog in dogdom. These dogs have very adoptable traits like a good disposition, stability, and superior physical attributes but often these very characteristics are presented to provide justification for fighting them.

Owning a "Pit Bull" gives their guardians a badge of bravado. These dogs are considered to be "macho" and therefore many owners don't want to neuter and spay them resulting in many unplanned and accidental litters. Consequently, they are also the leading breed and breed mix in Los Angeles shelters.

According to the Villalobos Pit Bull Rescue, the fallout is devastating. According to them the pit bull population in the combined twelve shelters (six city shelters and six county shelters in Los Angeles) has now risen to 40% of all the dogs in shelters.

They say, "Approximately 10 pit bulls are brought in each day to each shelter. That's 120 pit bulls a day. Most are strays, tossed out like dirty laundry." They calculate, "At the end of a week the total comes to 840 pit bulls. Then, according to Animal Control records, only about 2 pit bulls a week get adopted. That means 838 pit bulls a week, die in local shelters." [Villabos Pit Bull Rescue: http://www.vrcpitbull.com.]

The MuttShack Animal Foster and Rescue Foundation, is dedicated to change this tragic statistic. "We need massive adoptions from shelters, a very aggressive spay and neuter program, and an inescapable dog ID’ and micro-chipping campaign," says the founder, Amanda St. John.

Shelter dogs are in a life and death competition with Breeders and Pet Stores for potential homes. Shelter dogs need a LifeLine to get their profiles out there. Pounds are filled with purebreds and gorgeous pit mixes, puppies and trained older dogs.

To promote the adoption of at risk pit bulls from Los Angeles Animal Services, MuttShack has put together a slide show that may easily be forwarded to friends by e-mail. It is a grassroots effort and the Pound Pit Bulls' only hope in this competitive pet market.

A viewer can pause the slideshow at any time, read information about the particular dog and find out where to visit him.

The link is updated daily with new dogs, and fresh information. MuttShack's Lifeline for LA Pit bulls can be found at http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_LA_Pit_Bulls]

"Please copy the LifeLine link and forward it to your friends, looking to adopt, or bail one out of the shelter. If you know someone who has a pit bull, or mix, forward the link so that they can get free sterilization and microchipping information!" said Ms. St. John. http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_LA_Pit_Bulls

Several organizations have come forward to offer FREE spay and neuter of any domesticated Pit Bull or pit-mix.

> In Los Angeles, Actors and Others For Animals have declared their mission to curb the problem by offering free Pit Bull spay/neuter surgeries. (Telephone 818-755-6045, or 818-755-6323. Visit www.actorsandothers.com.)

> The Pasadena Humane Society, are offering spay and neuter through their SNiP program. (Telephone 626-792-7151 x106 or http://www.phsspca.org/SNiP/index.htm)

Most dogs forever loose the families they love, because they lack a cheap six-dollar ID tag. A simple ID tag on every dog could save hundreds of dogs' lives. However, since collars can get pulled off during a rescue attempt, the soundest identification is a microchip. When a dog is micro-chipped and registered to a family, it reduces his chances of being lost. Most shelters and Vets provide micro-chipping services.

Microchipping also protects dogs from "bad guys". When owners are identifiable on a database, the dog is secure against being abused or used in pit bull fighting.

Spay and neuter posters in Spanish and in English can also be printed from the website at http:/www.muttshack.org/freespay.html.

MuttShack is asking everyone to print up copies of the poster, and to put them up at Pet Stores, Vets Offices, and animal related facilities, and put them local bulletin boards and coffee shops. Think it is a waste of time? - Consider this: Every poster put up and broadly circulated so far has resulted in an adoption!

When you find the dog of your choice and want to adopt a LAAS Pit Bull, there is no need for a home-check. According to Heidi Heubner, the LAAS Volunteer Coordinator, all the applicant’s information is collected and processed. Then the pet gets micro-chipped and sterilized before going to his new home. The Microchip is the new dog's security blanket. It will keep track of the owners if he ever turns up at the shelter.

There is a fee of course, but it is a fraction of what a pet store or breeder charges, and essentially covers the medical bills.

See LAAS' recent program in pit bull handling at http://www.muttshack.org/news-pitbull.html.

According to Pia Salk of 1-800-Save-A-Pet.com, adopting an adult Pit Bull is an instant friend for life. "Ask anybody who has adopted an adult dog, and they'll swear their bond with their rescued pal is as deep as they come. When you open your heart and your home to a dog that needs help, they really do show their appreciation for the rest of their life! No matter what circumstances brought them to the shelter or rescue group, most dogs for adoption are exceptionally affectionate and attentive pets and extremely loyal companions. But first you have to adopt one!" she says.

MuttShack sees abandoned dogs daily. A recent E-mail sent on behalf of the Linda Blair World Heart Foundation read. "Attached you will find a picture of Peetie. Peetie is a 9-month-old pit/boxer/dalmation mix that was rescued by Linda Blair. He had been used as "bait" in Pit bull fights. His ears had been cut half way off. You would think that this would make Peetie an unapproachable dog and aggressive. However it is quite the opposite. He is friendly, playful, trusting and loves to be petted even on the ears. He has all his shots and has been neutered, is house trained and is the best little boy!!! He loves dogs and people. He wants to be loved and he gives love. (He is not great around cats however.) We really need someone to foster him until he finds his new incredible family." Looking at his picture was just a validation of everything they said! Link to Peetie's photo at http://www.muttshack.org/news-pitbull.html.

About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501(c) 3 non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, and from the streets, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters.

Donations save lives. Visit animals online that are in danger of being put to sleep at http://www.muttshack.org. Join us in preventing animals from entering shelters that kill. Support Muttshack Animal Rescue at our secure site https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD.

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Rescue
http://www.muttshack.org

Animal Communicator

I have a business card burning a hole in my Rolodex. It’s from an animal communicator. Someone who allegedly interprets mental pictures from animals. I love my dog dearly. He communicates with very expressive eyes and I don’t seem to have much trouble” getting” him. But because I’m so attached to him I’ve been toying with the idea of going that step further to find out what’s really in his mind. So why don’t I?

Well. Some givens going into the situation. What goes on in dog’s heads is important to them. They’re not likely to give you a tip on the fifth at Santa Anita. They think about food, toys, other dogs. And although I’m not quite sure how the process works I don’t think it’s like Karnak the Magician where you can ask questions.

But back to why I don’t just call the number and set up an appointment.

Maybe I’m not sure I want to know what my dog thinks of me or what goes on in his head. After all he is privy to all our secrets.

I once read a story, supposedly true, about a cat that peed on his owner’s bed every Sunday morning and at no other time. His mommy called in an animal communicator who asked the cat why he peed on the bed every Sunday. The cat replied that when mommy left the house to go to Church some other woman came in with her husband and they both booted him out of the bedroom. So he took a leak just to screw with them.

This may be an urban legend like the poodle in the microwave. But it sure makes you think twice about animal ESP.

I wonder what my boy would say about us to total strangers.

“ My mommy drinks wine sometimes and gets sad when daddy goes out? Daddy looks at pictures of naked ladies on the Internet when mommy goes to yoga class. They watch way too much TV. It hurts my ears”.

And how do they say anything? Do they use words? How can they say they like peanut butter if they don’t know that peanut butter is called peanut butter. To them it’s a pill delivery product.

I know that my dog adores me. I believe it’s unconditional. But what if I found out that what he was really thinking as he was jumping up at me as I came through the door was “You jerk, you left me alone for five hours and I’ve got to pee like a racehorse.” Little though he is he has the heart of a lion if he thinks I’m being threatened. But what if what he really felt was “I can’t believe I’ve got to step up AGAIN to get between you and this weird looking bum. Don’t you know better than to open the door to just anyone!”

I’ve been racking my brain trying to think of some human benefit from the limited amount of interspecies communication we’ve had so far. We were able to train dolphins to mine harbors so I guess you could say that that benefits us. But weren’t some of them blown up in the process? So, not so good for them. What about poor KoKo. Have we treated gorillas any better since we discovered they could experience bereavement and sadness?

Ultimately, what it may come down to is that I love my dog, and all animals, precisely because I can’t communicate with him in any kind of human way. I don’t need to reason with him; make a case; persuade him; or be critiqued on my wardrobe. I tell him what I want him to do and sometimes he actually does it. He tells me what he needs and he gets it. We have a pretty good system. If it ain’t broke why fix it?

Mary Rosendale is the proud mama of Wally Barker. See his advice column on her blog http://theconstructedlife.blogs.com/clear_and_present When she's not tending to his every need she is a Holistic Life Coach with a unique Coaching service rooted in Buddhist psychology. Visit her on the web at http://www.TheConstructedlife.com If you can't play - what's the point?

Dog and Cat Behavior Consultations

Why Behavior Consultations? More than half of all pet owners experience behavior problems with theirs pets. Unfortunately, many times the early signs of a behavior problem may go unrecognized or little is done to try to treat the initial problem until it becomes more serious. Many pet owners simply put up with the problem behavior and suffer the consequences or, ultimately, have to give their pet away. Fortunately, if help is sought early enough and if an appropriate treatment plan is followed, often the behavior problem can be cured. What Is Involved? In order to make it easier and more affordable for our clients to address behavior problems before they get out of hand, Linda Mar Veterinary Hospital staff veterinarian Ilana Strubel, DVM, MA provides in-office behavior consultations. Consultations take approximately one hour and must be scheduled in advance. The presence of all family members over the age of 6 and any pet involved in the problem is requested so that any underlying dynamics contributing to the problem behavior can be identified. A comprehensive medical and behavioral history questionnaire is provided for the client to complete and return in advance of the appointment. In some cases, a videotape of the pet's problem behavior at home may also be requested. This information allows the doctor to become familiar with the presenting behavior problem so that she may best utilize the time spent with the patient and client during the consultation. During the appointment, the doctor will ask further questions pertinent to the history of the problem and form a tentative diagnosis. Once the diagnosis of the main problem is made, Dr. Strubel is able to provide a thorough explanation of the pet's behavior problem and a customized plan for solving it. If appropriate to the problem, the doctor will demonstrate the proper use and fitting of training collars and/or head halter. For all problems, handouts explaining the behavior and outlining steps for correcting it are provided to assist the client with implementing the treatment plan. If drug therapy is advised, it may be necessary to collect a blood sample for baseline values to help ensure the patient's safety and to avoid possible side effects. All animals given prescriptions for behavior medications will need to be closely monitored by the prescribing veterinarian. The cost of any medications or products prescribed during the appointment is not included in the consultation fee. The consultation fee includes two follow-up phone calls during the first few weeks after the consultation to assist with any problems or questions that may arise. It is advised that all behavior modification protocols be implemented slowly and precisely to ensure greater long-term success. Depending on the type of behavior problem it may be necessary to introduce the training program in stages, and a follow up visit in one to two months may be recommended. This can be scheduled with Dr. Strubel as a regular 20-minute office visit or as a full hour, if desired. Dr. Strubel may also consult with Board Certified Veterinary Behavior Specialists regarding more challenging behavior problems and assist in scheduling a referral if indicated. What Are The Behavior Consultant's Qualifications? Ilana Strubel, DVM, MA is a general practitioner with a special interest in behavioral medicine. Dr. Strubel received her Bachelor's degree in ethology (animal behavior), ecology, and evolution from the University of Illinois. She then earned a Master's degree in marine biology with a special focus on marine mammal behavior from Boston University. Dr. Strubel then returned to the University of Illinois where she completed her doctorate in veterinary medicine. Since 1995, Dr. Strubel has practiced small animal medicine and surgery. She has trained with the Behavior Service at the Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital at the University of California, Davis, and is currently a member of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

Does My Horse Need A Blanket?

Your horse needs a blanket because their natural oils and dirt that keep them warm in the wild are removed each time you brush or curry them. When you clip your horse, you then remove all of the additional warm hair. Most stables are not heated, and it is critical that you compensate for the loss of heat by using some sort of a blanket. A horse will begin to lose weight if not kept warm enough. Of course it is always important to feed more hay in the winter also.

If your horse is outside in very cold weather, you will need a strong turnout blanket for that time. It would be great if you could afford it, to have two blankets. One for indoors and one for out otherwise select a blanket that will work inside and out. An outdoor blanket must give your horse the freedom to move when he bucks, rolls and kicks.

Some types of Blankets to Consider

Fleece cooler/blankets can be used after a workout and your horse needs to dry off. Put the fleece cooler on to remove moisture. Fleece is a excellent material to wick off moisture and keep your horse dry especially if he is sweaty and the weather is cool outside. It will keep his body temperature more balanced. Wool coolers/blankets can be used for the same purpose. Wool cooler are a heavier material and will keep the horse warmer. Wool is also nice for those extra cold nights when you need a blanket liner underneath your winter blanket. They also work well after a workout. Stable Blankets work well for those nights when your horse is in his stall. They do not work well outdoors and are usually designed for indoor use only. Finally there are heavier styles of Winter Turnout Blankets that are durable, ripstop, weatherproof and breathable. These are workable for indoor and outdoor use.

What is the correct size of the Blanket for my Horse?

Just take a tape measure and measure from the middle of the chest to the tail, along the side. If your horse measures a 78 buy that size. If you want to be sure of the right fit buy the next size larger. But be cautious as every manufacturer is different. Some have smaller or larger cuts than others. So check before buying. Surcingles and legs straps are nice to have to keep your horse's blanket in place in the even they roll or lie down. But, it is important that they are not adjusted too tightly so that you horse cannot move around comfortably. There should be a hand's width that will fit between the horse's belly and the surcingle, tight enough so that they cannot catch a hoof.

Leg straps should not be tight and not so loose that they are low near the hocks. A horse's legs could easily become tangled in these. It is better to loop the leg straps around each other before connecting to the snap. Snap them to the opposite side.

Remember !!!! If in doubt check with someone with more experience to keep your horse safe and happy this winter !

Suzanne DeVries

Please visit my WEB SITE at http://www.adirondackhorsetack.com or my EBAY STORE at butterfly7171

The Borzoi: Wolf Hound of Russia

The Borzoi is a native of Russia. The appearance is elegant, tall and rather like that of a Greyhound with a silky longer coat. The original ancestor is most likely the dog known centuries ago as the Steppe Greyhound and the Borzoi retains many of the characteristics of this "sight hound". Russian nobility cherished this breed for its qualities of perseverance and endurance on the hunt. The Borzoi is a breed that would give chase, surround and worry the wolf until it could be brought down by the hunter.

The breed in the United States has become a favorite in the sport of Lure Coursing. Of course it is also well known as an exotic looking breed in the Conformation ring, being a member of the Hound Group. In fact it retains the hound instinct and is being used more and more in the western states as a natural coyote hunter.

The Borzoi can have a coat of many colors, there are no specific restrictions. The coat should be thick and luxurious except for the face and the fronts of the legs which should be smooth. This is a breed that should have the appearance of refined elegance and its manner and movement should be graceful and balanced. The ears are fold over and the muzzle should have a distinct "Roman nose" appearance. The dog is tall (26 to 28 inches at the withers) and should have a very deep chest. Loins should have a distinctive arch, so that the dog can run with great speed and length of stride at a gallop. This ability is of course necessary because of the original function to hunt and bring to bay the wolves of ancient Russia. Furthermore this type of build allows for easy flexibility for quick turns. Form should follow function and in this case, regardless of the picture of beauty that this dog presents, it should be a dog which is able to carry out its original purpose. The total picture of this exotic looking breed should be that of aristocratic elegance coupled with especially graceful and free-flowing movement.

The Borzoi is not often considered as a pet. One can often see the Borzoi pictured in magazine photos as a hound walking with a fabulously dressed lady...but in truth it is not a dog for the inexperienced owner. It does have a streak of independence, as do most hounds. Many hound breeds were bred originally to run with a pack and therefore do not have the typical temperament of working breeds that functioned with humans as their pack leader. The Borzoi should be trained early or he will be aloof and will not regard his owner as his Master. Furthermore they have the strongly rooted instinct to give chase and should be kept confined when outside. Free exercise in a fenced in enclosure is preferable to daily walks, as this dog needs a great deal of exercise . He will not be satisfactory as a pet in an apartment situation.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

7 Tips to Keep Fido Safe on Halloween

1. NEVER leave Fido alone outside

There are malicious youngsters (and adults) who could do anything from taunting him to killing him as a Satanist sacrifice. Sorry to sound so grim, but this night does bring out the worst in many.

2. Patrol your yard and home

Watch especially for tin foil and cellophane candy wrappers. Dogs love these, but they can get stuck in his digestive tract and cause serious injury.

3. Keep candles out of his reach.

If you have candles in a pumpkin, make certain it is high enough to be out of Fido's reach. It's easy for a swinging canine tail to knock one over.

4. Make sure costumes are safe for him

If you put Fido in a costume (and I do with my dog), make certain --

a) any mask has eye holes big enough so he has peripheral vision;

b) his costume is not constricting his movement including his ability to go the bathroom;

c) he can breathe and bark in it; and d) there are no breakable, chewable pieces.

5. Don't give him chocolate

No matter how much he begs for it, never give Fido chocolate. It's poisonous. If your dog does pick up something he shouldn't, call the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435. Each call is $50.

6. Isolate him if he's nervous

If your dog is nervous, afraid of commotion or shy, keep in him a separate room away from the trick-or-treaters and other visitors. Strangers - especially ones in weird costumes - can frighten any dog.

7. Open your door carefully

If you do have Fido with you, don't give him the opportunity to bolt out the front door when you open it. Hold him, leash him or keep him a crate.

Keep these few tips in mind and you'll both have a safe and sane Halloween.

Louise Louis is a certified canine specialist and creator of the popular website on small dogs, http://www.ToyBreeds.com

How To Do Cat Litter Box Retraining

Cats stop using the cat litter box for a number of reasons. Once you discover the reason why and correct it, you may need to re-train your cat to use her box again. Despite what you think, you can train a cat! For most cats, it's not hard. They instinctively want to use a place with sand-like material to do their business. To re-train your cat back to her good litter box habits, confine her to one room. It's hard to say exactly for how long, but most cats are back in the habit within a week. Pick a nice sunny room for kitty. Set up a clean cat litter box, food, water, toys, and bedding for her to sleep on. Be sure to put her food and water as far away from her litter box as possible. Keep kitty in this room while you're gone. Many cat owners purchase kitty DVDs for their cat to watch all day long while they're gone. These DVDs feature birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and other critters that dart around. You can set up the DVD to play in a continuous loop all day long. These videos are also available in VHS tape format. Let kitty out under your supervision. If she looks like she's heading for her favorite corner to make an illegal dump, get her back to her room immediately, and place her in the cat litter box. If she uses it, praise her. Generally, cats "get it" very quickly. For one thing, they get lonely being in a room by themselves. For another, it's a cat's natural inclination to use a litter box. As long as you've corrected the source of her problem with the litter box, she'll go back to using it. If you can't let your cat out and supervise her, be sure to visit kitty often. Sit in the room with her, and keep her company. Watch the DVD with her! Confinement is not cruel if it's done properly. If your cat won't use the litter box during her confinement period, then the cat urine odor damage is limited to one room. If after a few days, your cat is still not using her cat litter box, please consult with your vet. There may a deeper issue that you simply can't tell from observation.

Shih Tzu - Teaching Your Shih Tzu To Use A Collar And A Lead

Walking on a collar and lead is an important skill that every shih tzu must learn. Even the best trained shih tzu should never be taken outside the home or yard without a sturdy collar and leash.

Even if your shih tzu is trained perfectly to go off lead, accidents and distractions do happen, and a collar, with proper identification attached, is the best way to be sure you will get your beloved companion back.

Of course before you can teach your new shih tzu puppy to accept a leash, he or she must first learn to accept wearing a collar. The first step is to choose a collar that fits the shih tzu properly. It is important to measure the shih tzu puppy’s neck, and to choose a collar size accordingly. After the collar has been put on the shih tzu puppy, simply let him or her get used to it. It is not unusual for a shih tzu puppy to try to pull on the collar, whine, roll or squirm when first introduced to a collar.

The best strategy is to simply ignore the shih tzu puppy and let him or her get used to the collar. It is a mistake to either punish the shih tzu for playing with the collar or to encourage the behavior. Distracting the shih tzu puppy often helps, and playing with a favorite toy, or eating some favorite treats, can help the shih tzu puppy quickly forget that he or she is wearing this strange piece of equipment.

After the shih tzu has learned to accept the collar, try adding the leash. Hook the leash to the collar and simply sit and watch the shih tzu puppy. Obviously, this should only be done either in the house or in a confined outdoor area. The shih tzu puppy should be allowed to drag the leash around on its own, but of course the owner should keep a close eye on the shih tzu puppy to ensure that the leash does not become snagged or hung up on anything.

At first, the leash should only be left on for a few minutes at a time. It is a good idea to attach the leash at mealtimes, playtime and other positive times in the life of the shih tzu puppy. That way the shih tzu puppy will begin to associate the leash with good things and look forward to it. If the shih tzu puppy shows a high degree of fear of the leash, it is a good idea to place it next to the food bowl for awhile to let him get used to it slowly. Eventually, he will come to understand that the leash is nothing to be afraid of.

After the shih tzu puppy is comfortable with walking around the house wearing the leash, it is time for you to pick up the end of the leash for a few minutes. You should not try to walk the shih tzu puppy on the leash; simply hold the end of the leash and follow the shih tzu puppy around as he or she walks around. You should try to avoid situations where the leash becomes taut, and any pulling or straining on the leash should be avoided. It is fine for the shih tzu puppy to sit down. Try a few games with the collar and lead. For instance, back up and encourage the shih tzu puppy to walk toward you. Don’t drag the shih tzu puppy forward, simply encourage him to come to you. If he does, praise him profusely and reward him with a food treat or toy. You should always strive to make all the time spent on the leash as pleasant as possible.

It is important to give the shih tzu puppy plenty of practice in getting used to walking on the leash in the home. It is best to do plenty of work in the home, since it is a safe environment with few distractions. After the shih tzu puppy is comfortable walking indoors on a leash, it is time to start going outside, beginning of course in a small, enclosed area like a fenced yard. After the shih tzu puppy has mastered walking calmly outdoors on a leash, it is time to visit some places where there are more distractions. You may want to start with a place like a neighbor’s yard. Walking your new shih tzu puppy around the neighborhood is a good way to introduce your neighbors to the new shih tzu puppy, while giving the shih tzu puppy valuable experience in avoiding distractions and focusing on his leash training.

Shih tzu puppies sometimes develop bad habits with their leashes, such as biting or chewing on the leash. To discourage this type of behavior, try applying a little bit of bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or similar substance (just make sure the substance you use is not toxic to dogs). This strategy usually convinces shih tzu puppies that chewing the leash is a bad idea.

Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Understanding Canine Hip Dysplasia and How to Prevent It

Canine hip dysplasia is a genetic issue that starts to appear from the ages of 4 to 12 months. Not all puppies in a litter will develop it, though if your dog has canine hip dysplasia, she should not be bred.

Larger breed dogs have a higher risk of developing hip dysplasia, due to the greater weight these joints will have to bear. But it's important to realize that small dogs can be affected also. Large breed dogs at risk include rottweilers, german shephards, golden retrievers, dalmations, and blood hounds.

Canine hip dysplasia affects the ball and socket joint of the hip. The head of the large bone in the dog's leg doesn't fit snugly into the hip socket. The problem is that the socket itself is not well developed, and it creates a lot of stress on the joint. The muscles don't develop as quickly as the bone grows, and a situation is created where the weight the joint has to bear is greater than the capacity of the ligaments, tendons, and muscles around the joint. Thus joint instability develops. This in turn leads to a greater wear and tear than the joint would normally experience.

Canine hip dysplasia ranges from mild to moderate. In mild cases, the space between the joints is greater than normal and the ball at the top of the hip bone is part way out of its socket. Fortunately, in mild cases, there are no associated arthritic changes in the joint.

In moderate canine hip dysplasia, the top part of the normally rounded hip bone begins to flatten, and it sits only loosely in the joint. Bone spurs begin to develop, and arthritic changes start to happen.

Unfortunately, in severe hip dysplasia, there is definite arthritis present. And once arthritis appears in the joint, the condition is irreversible. In the severe cases such as this, the hip bone is completely out of the joint. The silver lining is, however, that not all dogs with hip dysplasia and arthritis will become lame. Some may become lame as puppies, some may not ever become lame.

Symptoms of hip dysplasia include:

* walking with a limp
* a swaying gait
* bunny hopping when running
* difficulty in the back legs when getting up
* pain in the hip
* when the puppy is lying on its back, its back legs may not extend towards the front legs without pain

The only way to find out if your dog definitely has hip dysplasia is if he has an x-ray by a vet. This normally means the dog will have to be heavily sedated, or go under anaesthetic.

Tips To Prevent Canine Hip Dysplasia

* Don't feed a growing dog a diet too high in calories. It's important that the growing dog's nutritional needs are met, but excessive weight, and rapid weight gain, create more of a load for the joints to bear. If a dog is genetically predisposed to hip dysplasia, this can delay the beginning of symptoms, or reduce the chance of it developing into a more severe form.

* Be careful about the type of exercise growing dogs get. Jumping up and down from heights, and standing on their back legs, such as when they stand against a fence or window to look over it, can aggravate the joints whilst they are growing quickly.

* Buy dogs from a reputable breeder. If one parent dog has hip dysplasia, the risk of it occurring in the litter is doubled. Good breeders take care to prevent this situation from occurring. The pedigrees of dogs can be checked to see whether they have been certified as normal by the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (OFA) in the US. Their website is www.offa.org

Other organizations that check for markers of hip normalcy in dogs are PennHip and the GDC (Genetic Disease Control in Animals). Large breed dogs have a greater chance of developing hip dysplasia, and prospective owners would be wise to take this precaution.

References: J Griffin and L Carlson, Dog Owners Home Veterinary Handbook

Whilst large breed dogs are more susceptible to canine hip dysplasia, buying from a reputable breeder can prevent this developing. Find out more about some of these loveable breeds here at The Dogs Bone: http://www.thedogsbone.com/ Large breed dog articles, with photos, include these on the bloodhound dog, and the dalamation breed.

Choosing a Horse Trailer

Whether you are looking to buy a new horse trailer or a used one, it's easy to be influenced by fancy options and shiny construction materials. But, for a horse owner who wants to promote safe and stress free hauling for the horse, choosing a trailer from the horse's point of view is very important. Since many horse trailers are built to appeal to the human perspective, this may not be as easy as one may think. Considering the nature of the horse as a species, it's a minor miracle that our equine friends get into a trailer at all. Horses are creatures of the prairie who are designed for life in wide open spaces. Because they are prey animals, they have a highly developed "flight or fight" response. When danger threatens, horses run away. That is how they survive. Feral horses who don't run fast enough end up as dinner! They also have to watch their footing so they don't fall into a hole or quicksand! Whenever we deal with a horse, we have to consider this flight response and reluctance to step on suspicious ground in our training. Because a horse trailer is small, dark, and shaky, it goes against the horses' very nature, but because horses are also trainable, they learn to put their natural fears aside and do the crazy things we ask them to do. However, even if they do what we ask, it may not be comfortable for them, and they can suffer stress in ways that we don't even notice. It's easy to notice when the horse won't load, but it's less obvious that illness and some injuries can be caused by design features in a trailer that make trailering more stressful for the horse. Some trailering problems have become so commonplace that people just accept them as part of the process. Things like breaking halters and loading and unloading problems are some of those "acceptable" incidents that don't need to happen. Other problems like shipping fever, dehydration, colic, and even the acute stress of injury can be prevented by a stress free trailering environment. Stress can be defined as an external stimulus which is beyond the control of the animal. When a horse is exposed to stress, the autonomic nervous system kicks in to physically prepare the animal to react to the stress. Heart rate elevates, adrenaline and epinephrine are secreted, and other bodily functions such as hormone levels, change to help the animal survive. For the horse, the reaction is to run away to avoid the object of the stress and the system returns to normal, so therefore, this system works in the horse's natural environment. However, if the horse cannot escape the object of stress over a long period of time, the health of the horse begins to suffer. The chronic stress can have a negative impact by changing the immune functions that can predispose the animal to disease. Putting a horse in a trailer goes against it's very instinct. He cannot get away from the stress of this small enclosed box. He is also put at risk of injury from the trailer itself or the possibility of a traffic accident. Whether your horse is a pet, or you only think of your horse as an investment or a tool, avoiding illness and injury can save you money and heartbreak, and at the very least, can actually improve his performance. Of course, horses travel all the time without incident, and trailering can be a safe and enjoyable experience. Buying the safest horse trailer will increase your chances of arriving at your destination with a healthy, happy horse. Manufacturers must build horse trailers to conform to the requirements of the road, but because there are no industry or government regulations concerning the safety of the horse, there are wide differences in horse trailers. Look at your prospective trailer from the horse's point of view. What does the horse want? Room and light, good ventilation, and safety in design. Room and light: An average sized horse ( 15.1h - 16.3h) needs about 10 feet of usable length to be comfortable. A larger horse may even need more. A horse needs to be able to spread his legs for steadiness, but is also important that he be able to use his head and neck freely for balance. A light colored interior and lots of windows or slats will make the trailer much more inviting and less claustrophobic. Good ventilation is important for the horse's respiratory health and to control the temperature and environment of the trailer. Hay dust and noxious gasses from manure and urine compromises the horse's respiratory system and predisposes him to diseases such a shipping fever. Roof vents will remove contaminated and/or hot air from the trailer. A light colored exterior, especially the roof, will make the trailer cooler in hot weather. Safety in design: There should be nothing sticking out to harm the horse in anyway. Tie rings, and latches should fold flat against the wall. All center posts and dividers should quick release, but should be strong enough to not break apart until you can make the decision. (Exception - dividers should come up and out if a horse would get under it.) No sharp edges anywhere. All parts of the trailer should be strong enough to hold up to the largest, strongest horse who will be hauled in it. Ramps should be low to the ground and not slippery. It should be possible to reach every horse individually in the event of an emergency. (This is a special problem with many slant load trailers.) Butt and chest bars should quick release. Safety in design also includes road safety. All brakes and lights should be in perfect working order and the emergency breakaway brake battery should be charged. Safety chains on tag-along trailers must be crossed underneath, and ball hitch gooseneck hitches should also have safety chains or cables. Tires should be inflated to the recommended capacity, and rubber torsion suspension will not only reduce road shock for the horse, but will be an added safety feature if the event of a flat tire. It is most important that a tag-along trailer be hitched to a frame mounted Class III or Class IV hitch, and that the trailer be towed in a level position. Whether you are towing a gooseneck or a tag-along trailer, you must have a properly rated tow vehicle to insure your own safety.

Common Signs of Arthritis in Dogs - Overview of Dog Arthritis Medications and Supplements

Unfortunately, arthritis in dogs is about as common as it is in people. It may range from mild to moderate or severe. If your dog is overweight, the extra pressure on joints can exacerbate the problem. And, as with humans, there may be joint cartilage damage. Fortunately there are some dog arthritis medications, both over-the-counter and prescriptions, as well as nutritional supplements, that can help make your dog feel better. There are also some physical aids that can assist your arthritic pet in getting around. Common Signs of Arthritis in Dogs You dog may experience one or more of the following symptoms: * Difficulty in getting up * Limping, especially after exercise * Walking slower than normal or a change in gait * Difficulty in jumping or climbing stairs, or a hard time squatting to do his business. Treating Dog Arthritis: Arthritis Medication and Aspirin for Dogs It is always best to see your vet to get a proper diagnosis. He or she may prescribe one or more anti-inflammatory medications or pain relievers. You can also get special non-prescription canine aspirin for dogs with arthritis to help relieve their joint pain. Canine aspirin can help reduce inflammation and relieve pain. Glucosamine and Other Arthritis Supplements for Dogs Some people have found success in reducing their dog's discomfort and improving their mobility by giving them supplements of glucosamine, chondroitin and MSM. Fatty acid supplements can also be helpful in reducing inflammation by helping to lubricate the joints and improve joint health. Help Your Dog Lose Weight Arthritis in dogs, as with people, can be exasperated by extra weight. If your dog is overweight, help him lose excess pounds by reducing calorie intake and giving him low impact exercise such as leash walks and swimming. Physical Aids for Your Arthritic Dog *An elevated dog feeder can help your dog so he doesn't have to bend over to eat. or drink. *A pet ramp can help your dog get into the car or on the bed. * A dog harness versus a collar is gentler on the neck and back. *An orthopedic bed provides even support and reduces pressure on joints. With a little extra care, your arthritic dog can still live an active life.

Techniques in House Training your Dog

When scolding your dog for doing the toilet on the carpet remember that we were once young and did not use the proper toilet either. Your dog needs to be house trained, and this can be done in a few easy steps, but over a long period.

Dog house training may be one of the hardest training techniques as it is the one that requires the most attentiveness and work. You have to be able to read your dog's body signals, as he cannot tell you when he needs the toilet. Many people make the mistake of assuming that their dog will bark when he needs the go, sometimes they are lucky to find a dog that will but believe me there are many out there who don't and accidents are found all over the house!

Dog house training requires a few simple steps, but as I said but they are time consuming ones. Firstly I would recommend putting newspaper in front of the door, that way if you see him doing an accident in the house you can quickly life him there and he will realize that if he needs to go and your not there to let him he has to do it on paper.

The next thing you need to know when dog house training is most dogs when they need the toilet will start to get restless and stat sniffing around, this is when you pick them up and take them outside, when they are really young you should take him outside at least once every hour. When you take them outside you can say things like “do the toilet” or “do your business” or whatever command you want to use for this training session. Once they have done the toilet you must give them lots of affection outside straight away (of course it's best to wait until they are done) They will soon come to realize that outside is the place to do the toilet and will after some time start asking to go out.

There are hundreds of books available on dog house training all of which use different techniques and routines. No dog is going to know straight away that outside is the place to do the toilet, they have to learn and you have to teach them (unless you don't mind accidents all over the place) Oh and don't forget to scoop!!

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

For more information about training your dog, visit Dog Training

A Dog Is For Life Not Just For Christmas

My family run an animal sanctuary in Birmingham, England. Even though we love what we do, we feel that some people need to realise that a pet should be a long term commitment. They should not be seen as just a bit of fun which they can then get rid of when they get bored.

Many people arrive at the animal sanctuary with their pets, which are mainly dogs, with many excuses as to why they are no longer able to look after or care for them. I am sure many of their reasons are valid but am also aware that many others are just an excuse to offload them.

The excuses they give are varied:

I have recently divorced from my husband and can no longer afford to keep this dog as a pet

The dog has started to bite my children

The dog is too difficult to handle and is destroying my furniture

We have recently moved into a flat. One of their rules is that no animals can live in these flats

The dog barks to much and it is upsetting the neighbours

Our other animals do not like the dog

The dog is affecting my health

I am too ill to look after my dog

It is not our role to question these reasons but what we then need to do is to find another suitable home for the dogs. This is easier said than done as we need to ensure that the new owners will be able to care for them, for hopefully the duration of their life.

We also keep many of the dogs as our own pets, especially the ones which nobody else seems to want. One such dog is called Cassie. She is full of life and has been ill treated it seems when she was a puppy. Half of her left ear is missing and she is seemingly quite afraid of men.

Cassie is need of a huge amount of care and attention. She can be too lively at times which is possibly why three people who attempted to re-home her, have bought her back. She is not aggressive in any way but does tend to jump up at people.

What we did with Cassie and what we will continue to do, is to give her lots of love but also a little bit of training of what is good and what is not acceptable. It takes a long time, but she is now able to understand that the jumping is not wanted and that she needs to chill out at times.

Cassie is turning into a wonderful dog to have around the house and now feels for the first time as part of a family.

With a little more patience most other dogs can turn out this way. This is why we want more people to take more responsibility and to give their animals more of a chance to settle into their homes, and to get used to a new set of rules.

Having animals as pets can be very rewarding, nearly as rewarding as having a child. A dog however will rarely answer you back.

If you are having problems with your animals you can always phone up animal sanctuaries for advice and to hear about possible solutions. The people who work there are animal lovers and will help you as much as they can.

If you are unable to continue looking after the pet, the sanctuary should be able to take them off you.

Stephen Hill helps to promote a number of websites including:

stuttering

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Canine Dogs and Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety problems are diagnosed in around 15% of all behavioural cases. When left alone, most dogs will find a familiar spot and go to sleep. However, a dog when suffering from separation anxiety may become extremely anxious. Not understanding where you or your family have gone or if you will ever return, this dog may exhibit behaviour which can include chewing, barking, salivating, urinating, defecating, vomiting or escape behaviour such as chewing through walls, scratching through doors or exit points, breaking out of cages or trying to dig their way out of gardens and enclosures.

In some cases, the dog can become extremely ill, stop eating, or suffer from depression. I often find single dogs kept in kennels can become morose or lethargic. This can be a major problem with some of our working dogs who are often kennelled and therefore do suffer accordingly. I personally believe that if you intend to kennel your dog then you really should have more than one dog in that environment.

Dogs are conspecific that means that they can generally only form a true pack with their own kind, They do create a loose pack type alliance with us and are integrated into our family unit, however that normally does not happen when dogs are not allowed indoors and are restricted to a kennelled area. These dogs do need the companionship and company of other dogs when in this situation. If we were to look at it in human terms, it would be equivalent of solitary confinement.

Possible Causes

Factors at the root of Separation Anxiety can include, genetics, insufficient early learning and handling, lack of socialisation and owner behaviour, sometimes we reinforce an overbonding relationship that causes the dog stress when we are not around. This type of dog will follow you everywhere and that includes the toilet. We can often exacerbate the problem by making a big scene when we leave. Was it Shakespeare that wrote, “parting is such sweet sorrow, That I shall say good night till it be morrow”.?

Your dog is a social, pack animal that relies on others for individual protection, it finds safety in numbers, and will feel ostracised from the pack if not allowed to mix freely with its extended family, which includes humans and other dogs. In wolf packs, an individual that is forced to leave the pack will often die if it cannot join another pack. Often these dogs are males that have been usurped from the Alpha position or have challenged for top position and failed. Making it unlikely to be accepted into another pack and will be unable to hunt as effectively on its own.

Dogs retain vestigial wolf characteristics, is it therefore any wonder they feel anxious in when placed in these situations? Dogs that lack confidence, due to over bonding, under socialisation, or lack of training in basic obedience, mistreatment in the past, long confinements or dogs that have been abandoned or placed in rescue centres are most likely to exhibit behaviours relating to separation anxiety.

Solution and Treatment

• No long goodbyes
When it is time to leave, just leave. Do not say a big and drawn out "Good bye" to your dog. In fact, ignore your dog for five minutes before you go. Paying too much attention will make your dog feel more insecure when that attention is abruptly withdrawn. You may wish to use a herbal type anxiety reducer such as Dr Bach’s rescue remedy, you can get this in any good chemist 4 drops a day in their food, and a DAP diffuser you can get this from your Vets. It plugs in the wall socket and gives out calming pheromones. DAP means Dog Appeasing Pheromone, the clever little scientists have isolated the pheromone that the nursing mother gives out to calm the little pups when she is feeding them, and have created a chemical mimic These combined can help to take the edge of the anxiety. Always discuss any herbal or natural remedies or treatment with your Vet.

• Distractions are the key
Prepare a "Good-Bye" bone. These are hollow cheese or meat filled bones purchased from the pet shop, or it could be a Kong. When it is empty, fill it with grated cheese, peanut butter, or other things your dog really likes. You can even make up a thick soup type mixture, fill the hollow bones with these and freeze, put it away and only take it out when you leave each day. Place it near your dog just before you close the door. When you arrive back home put the bone away. The bone only comes out when you leave. when it gets low then poke out the contents and refill. You are distracting your dog with something that he will find interesting enough to concentrate on and will ignore your leaving, he should appreciate the bone so much that he will look forward to it coming out instead of getting upset with your leaving. You can also get puzzle type activity cubes or balls these are meant to be filled with dried kibble or treats, the dog has to manipulate these to get bits of treat out .Some are quite difficult to use giving the dog lots to work at rather than thinking about your departure. Once again, only give this to your dog when you are leaving and take away when you return.

• Crate Train
Confining your dog during your times of absence has two positive results. First, a dog who is confined crate cannot do damage to your home. Secondly, a crate, when properly introduced, will act as a safe and comfortable den where the dog can relax. Limiting his movement also acts as an anxiety reducer for most dogs. However, dogs should not be locked in crates for long periods maximum during the day should be 2/3 hours and certainly only on rare occasions not every day.

• Exercise Your Dog
A dog that is lacking exercise is more likely to have stress and tension. Tiring a dog out with a long walk, run or with play goes a long way in reducing stress and anxiety.

• Leave the Radio On Tune a radio to a talk station; not music, put it on in a room you are often in but not in the same room as the dog, and close the door. I use LBC 97.3 as the preferred station though of course not everyone can receive this. The dog will hear the human voices from another room and may not feel so alone. Some owners tape record their own voices and play the recording rather than the radio program. Dogs know the sound of your voice. This need only be a couple of hours long.

• Build up a routine
The hardest time for dogs is immediately after you leave. Their anxious, frantic, and occasionally destructive behaviour generally happens inside the first hour. You need to modify your dog's behaviour through reinforcement training and behavioural modification. Leave your dog either in or out of the crate; get ready to leave, put your coat on or whatever routine you have when you leave, walk out as normal, come back after one minute greet your dog calmly tell him to sit, when he does, reinforce the behaviour with a food treat he enjoys.

Wait a few minutes and then repeat the exercise, this time remaining outside a few minutes longer. Continue practicing leaving and returning over the next couple of weeks, This has the effect of desensitising you dog to your exits and it will not know the length of the separation.

• Leadership is Vital
When a dog has a strong consistent leader, it has a calming effect on him. He feels safe and taken care of. In the absence of a strong leader, your dog feels obligated to assume that position in the social hierarchy of the family pack. Since a leader must control all that goes on, his inability to control you leaving causes him stress and anxiety. They sometimes exhibit dominant behaviour to try to stop owners from leaving. Obedience training and * NILIF techniques is normally the best methods of establishing yourself as a beneficial and strong leader.

Consistency is the key. You are responsible for providing food and shelter. You also have the responsibility of supplying an environment whereby the dog feels safe and secure. Leadership plays a part. lack of consistency and over-bonding can be a cause and effect of separation anxiety, though it must be said other factors may also play their part. Sometimes you may need to get another dog for company and comfort for you existing pet, especially if the symptoms are severe. Sometimes you may have to rehome the dog, as your lifestyle does not allow for a happy and contented pet and in both your best interests, this should be considered.

The NILIF technique mentioned here will be in a future article called “The Pushy Dog”

Stan Rawlinson

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times.

He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers